bausch

After my Volvo was totaled back in February, I decided to look at a used Acura (I had a 1991 Legend coupe before the Volvo). So I picked up a low mileage single owner 2005 RL. Love the car.

I have used Google to search this site but haven't been able to find answers to the following topics. I'm guessing this site can help!

1. Does AcuraLink have live traffic? Or does that require a data plan and hence cost money?

2. How can I check how updated the maps are on my AcuraLink?

3. I want to set my home address and other things in the computer, but I did not get the 4 digit PIN from the previous owner. Is there a work-around w/o having get a dealership involved?

4. How conservative is the 'miles left' feature? When it says say 5 miles left, are you really close to running out of gas?

5. And last but not least involves the car sometimes sounding like a pinball wizard. Yes, sometimes the door locks right after starting up all by themselves start locking and unlocking. I've read many threads about this topic. I would like to find the cause for my car, but don't quite know where to start. I will say this: the button on the driver side handle functions properly, I think, and the inside of the handle unlocks the car. But the button on the passenger side door does not set the alarm (but the inside of the handle works to unlock the doors). Could the malfunctioning button on the passenger door be the problem for my car turning into the pinball wizard every few days or so after startup?

Thanks a bunch if you read this far. :-)

oo7spy

AcuraLink isn't what you think it is. It is a way for your car to connect to the dealer using your 2005 cell phone's data.

1) Traffic comes through XM traffic and isn't worth it. Your best bet for reliable traffic is a NavTool and Google maps through your phone.

2) The map disc in the DVD drive in the trunk has the version printed on it. You can also likely retrieve the info from the diagnostic menu, but I'm not 100% on how to get to it. You press three of the four corner buttons, menu, info, and cancel?

3) Have you checked the glove box and owner's manual/manual cover for stickers or cards? At the top center of the glove box is a button for the manual compartment. Check there too. Otherwise, the dealer should be able to look it up via VIN. Calling AcuraCare may work too.

4) You will have at least a gallon left at "0" miles left. However low fuel strains your fuel pump, so don't pish it. Use 91 octane or higher.

5) Probably your passenger handle, but . It's possible to pull the interior door panel off and unplug the handle to avoid further damage/issues. That could also answer if that is the issue.

Welcome.

bausch

Thanks Bond for the reply.

Regarding pt 3): I re-looked through the pile of docs left behind by the previous owner and one card had a 4 digit number on it and it worked. Woohoo!

More on pt 5) What kind of bucks can I expect a dealer to charge to replace that 'broken button' on the passenger side door?

oo7spy

The whole handle has to be replaced. MSRP is $300, but the online parts dealers list them for $223. OEM Acura RL 2007 FRONT DOOR LOCKS - OUTER HANDLE parts

I think the dealer wants around $200 for labor. It can be done yourself, but is a PITA due to limited working space.

bausch

I think I might go back to my Acura dealer and see how much they would charge to replace the handle. I guess I wouldn't be happy to spend 500 bucks, but if it fixed this problem of being a pinball wizard every few days, I would probably do it.

Another question that just popped into my head: one kind of mileage can the RL get if mostly highway driving? Anybody get close to 30 if you keep the speed more like 60 mph?

oo7spy

Bump the tire PSI to 38-40. 27-28 is completely doable with 100% highway even averaging 75-80 mph. 30 has been achieved, but I would guess those are isolated instances where environmental factors helped out, cool air, tailwind, descending route, etc.

bausch

Continuing the pinball topic: it seems at times I hear a strange sound, like something being strained, when I go from drive to park and locks are opened. Is this normal? Could it be related to the malfunctioning locks at times?

oo7spy

Door lock actuator. When it sounds like a dying cat, then it is really about to go. Usually separate from the handle issue, but I guess it's possible if it's on the passenger side.

schen72

The door lock actuator problem is a known issue on 2005 RLs. I believe some sort of software update from the dealer fixes it.

bausch

Thanks for the knowledge. I'm trying to locate anything on this software update online so I can approach my dealer with confidence! Any tips?

oo7spy

I don't recall it being software related. Software doesn't make noise.

bausch

Not really RL specific, but this audience is knowledgeable. I guess a small perk of having my B3 service done recently by an Acura dealer is that they put into place a 2 month trial subscription to Sirius/XM. I have a long trip coming up so I should be able to test it out pretty good. But even on my hour long drive today in southeastern PA, it sure seemed liked ESPN radio channel 83 signal wasn't great. When I was in a more challenging reception area, well, the reception was cruddy. What's the word on satellite radio reception?

I have an XMRadio tuner on my computer, and it tries to tune to either satellite or terrestrial signals. Same in a car?

Ballinger

No, the XM unit in the RL is only looking for satellite signal and doesn't revert to radio for redundancy/backup.

I'm on the west coast and we tend to have very good XM/Sirius coverage. Our RL gets signal everywhere but under freeway bridges, inside parking garages and in narrow, east/west streets among tall buildings, downtown. The NavTraffic works reliably and is excellent for SoCal freeways -- far better than fiddling with a phone.

bausch

So NavTraffic is the live traffic that XMRadio provides and interfaces with the RL? And if you have an XMRadio plan, that comes with NavTraffic at no further charge?

NathanJax

Correct

NavTraffic is $3.99 extra per month
https://www.siriusxm.com/navtraffic/pricing



But of course the pricing depends on ho much you like to haggle with them...

bausch

I just got a 3-month trial Sirius subscription that says it includes NavTraffic. How do I know NavTraffic is being used? Is it automatically interfaced with the mapping system? Will mid-route if there is an accident or something will it recalculate a better route?

NathanJax

scroll out on the maps about mid way (you'll see a mark for traffic) and after 2-3 min from starting your car you'll see traffic show up on the major interstates in your area (if it's available where you are)

Ballinger

You do have to turn Nav Traffic "on" in the display. The simplest way to determine whether it is, is to go into map view with the dial and see whether there's a bracketed section on the "zoom gauge" related to traffic. If there isn't, use the command button on the steering wheel and voice: "Display Traffic". That turns it on and then you'll wait a few moments for it to begin to display.

The vintage of Nav Traffic we get only shows interstate/highway/freeway, rather than surface streets (like newer Nav and/or "Beat the Traffic" on your android phone, etc...). It will code the highway red, orange or green, depending on highway speeds, and it will pop yellow advisories for accidents/road work.

bausch

Thanks for Display Traffic tip. Now I can see the data.

Does our version of Nav Traffic get used when the route planning feature computes estimated times for paths possible on a trip?

schen72

No, it doesn't do any routing or re-routing with the navtraffic data in mind. Keep in mind this was the first application of navtraffic on an Acura. I think now they all use FM for traffic and it's free. And the nav uses the traffic data to determine routes.

RobbDizzle

Any more info on the door lock actuator issue? Mine is starting to make the noise. Easy fix?

bausch

When I bought this car I noticed in the message screen some old warnings about some AFS issue. Then just yesterday this AFS warning light came on again. Should I be concerned? The lights appear to work just fine.

Note: I find it curious this this warning popped on while I was driving during the day and all lights are off.

oo7spy

Two most common issues are a low battery or the stroke sensor in the driver's rear wheel wheel.

The stroke sensor is connected to the suspension and contains a potentiometer physically adjusted by the balance of the car. Unfortunately, the unit isn't completely sealed from the weather, and the internal components are subject to corrosion. Proof is here: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post13651393

The cheapest fix is to mimic the level position of the potentiometer by using 2 - 2.2k ohm resistors. This is described here, but the pictures are gone. https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...%24200-870717/

Ultimately, you connect the two resistors together. Connect one end of one resistor to the grey wire, connect the other end of the other resistor to the light blue wire, and connect the purple wire between the resistors.

bausch

Wow, now that's really detailed info! I do have an electronics guy I could probably lean on if I wanted to do this self fix. I guess I'll wait until this AFS warning light is going off more frequently before trying the fix above, or just pursue replacing this part altogether (which I'm hoping would be simple!).

bausch

And I was reading the manual and it wasn't quite clear to me how often the oil change indicator comes on. Is it really computed based upon engine revolutions? If so, what is a typical estimate of mileage between the indicator coming on? 5000 miles?

oo7spy

7k miles is the average interval.

bausch

I don't use the daytime running lights (yet). But here is something I find hard to understand: I always set the emergency brake, and after I start the car and before I've released the brake, the dashboard displays "DRL OFF", which then goes off when I release the brake. Standard?

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

Yes, perfectly normal. What you are describing occurs on any DRL equipped car, except without the warning light on the dash if the car isn't equipped with that.

oo7spy

The car assumes you aren't going to drive with the brake on, so it doesn't turn on the DRLs until the brake is released (at which point it assumes you are going to drive). Stopping the car and applying the brake will not turn off the DRL though. It is only when the car starts with the brake on.

Our CR-V and previous Civic do the same thing.

bausch

Now for an even more newbie question! How do you handle leaving a 'key' when getting the car washed thru one of the automated ones where you leave the car running? Put the wireless keyfob in the console? Can you get locked out of the car somehow??

oo7spy

I wouldn't suggest leaving the fob in the car while it is running. That creates the potential to be locked out although it is unlikely. You can take the fob out of the car while it is running. The car will beep at you to let you know, but it won't affect anything otherwise. That's the safe route.

schen72

Leaving the key in the car is fine. The doors will not lock. Same with the trunk. You can put the keyfob in the trunk, close the trunk, and it will just pop back up. It is impossible to lock your key in the car.

If the engine is already running, and you leave the car with the key, then close the door, it will beep at you and show a warning message in the MID that no key is present. But the engine will keep running.

gmason1

I would think that the car "could" be locked with the key inside despite the measures taken by Acura to keep it from happening? Ive seen/heard these RL's doing some weird stuff when the door handles and actuators start to go out or fob batteries get low. Especially in our '05 RL's. I have one starting to go out and I get the whole "pinball wizard" thing going on as soon as I start the car prior to switching to into gear. Sometimes its worse than others. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. All other functions are fine. My next step is to just turn off the AUTO DOOR LOCK altogether. I Just keep that fob in my pocket with the exception of washing the car. If its in your pocket during washing, you could short out your door sensors.

oo7spy

schen, that is only true if the engine is off. Of course you can lock the fob inside if the engine is running.

There is a way to lock the fob inside when the car is off. Lock the car, open the trunk, throw the fob through the rear seat passage into the cabin, and close the trunk.

gmason, I understand why you would be concerned about the faulty door handles and actuators, but I have yet to read an experience here of someone locking their fob inside the car. You have a much higher chance of dying the next time you drive than locking the fob in the car, so I wouldn't change normal behavior because of it.

schen72

I could have sworn if you locked the doors with the engine running and fob inside, the doors would just unlock. Maybe I'll experiment at home and try this out. I do remember explicitly trying to lock the fob inside (cabin and trunk) and it would not lock. The procedure you describe about throwing the fob through the rear passthrough seems like an edge case -- someone who is trying hard to defeat the system.

oo7spy

Here, try this. Get in your car with the fob, start it, and lock the doors. Your fob is now locked in the car.

The through the seat trick is a defeat the system type of thing. There is a member who hangs out in Ramblings and used to be an Acura Sales Presenter (think car shows). He bet his Sales Manager $10 he could lock the fob in an RL and used this trick. The point is that the system is very well designed, and you have to be trying to lock your fob in the car for it to happen. It won't happen by accident.

bausch

Unfortunately I only inherited one of the key fobs from the dealership. How much does one cost? Any way to get one aftermarket and not have the stupid high dealer mark-up? I'm thinking not.

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

You can always try ebay, but (someone correct me if I'm wrong) you would still need to see the dealer to have it programmed.

oo7spy

I sold my two fobs for $75 and $80 (one without physical key) because that was the going rate on eBay at the time. You do have to have the dealer's HDS to program the fob and the chip in the base of the physical key. I think people have had it done for $100. Any key cutter should be able to replace the physical key, but you don't need it to drive. You can drive with just the fob programmed if your keyless access module works.