My RL dyno'ed! Numbers, pix, movies
03-24-2007, 10:56 PM
#41
The Doctor
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Bellevue, WA
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this thread rules
Thanks for the post, Bob. I do believe that the numbers are not representing the actual power that the RL is putting to the wheels. The car definitely thinks that it's contantly slipping. Is VSA responsible for the whole power loss? No one can be sure.
Let's wait until next Friday for the post-mod dyno. That would be interesting to see.
Let's wait until next Friday for the post-mod dyno. That would be interesting to see.
03-25-2007, 10:47 AM
#42
Burning Brakes
Bob, just wondering after you get the mods installed are you dynoing immediately or going to drive a bit and let the car learn the new mods and then dyno ?.
Can't wait till next Friday also
Can't wait till next Friday also
03-25-2007, 11:57 AM
#43
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Touge, I'm going to dyno right away, at the shop. The primary reason is convenience: the shop is 50 miles away from where I live and work, and it's tough to schedule a dyno appointment.
As to the VSA question: even if I can't get another pre-mod run on the dyno, I plan to try the dyno with and without VSA to see whether that makes a difference.
As to the VSA question: even if I can't get another pre-mod run on the dyno, I plan to try the dyno with and without VSA to see whether that makes a difference.
03-26-2007, 09:56 PM
#44
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
More about VSA
Here's what Acura says about VSA:
So would this operate with the car traveling in a straight line or on a dyno?
Vehicle Stability Assist® with traction control
Vehicle Stability Assist® (VSA®) is standard equipment on the RL. It uses electronic traction control and ABS functions, combined with a yaw and longitudinal/lateral acceleration sensors to quickly detect if the vehicle is about to understeer or oversteer. It then reduces engine output and applies one or more individual brakes, to stabilize the vehicle-often before the driver is even aware of the instability.
Vehicle Stability Assist® (VSA®) is standard equipment on the RL. It uses electronic traction control and ABS functions, combined with a yaw and longitudinal/lateral acceleration sensors to quickly detect if the vehicle is about to understeer or oversteer. It then reduces engine output and applies one or more individual brakes, to stabilize the vehicle-often before the driver is even aware of the instability.
03-27-2007, 12:17 AM
#45
Burning Brakes
I don't think it should make a difference on a dyno, but to be safe I would turn it off. I had it on when I attempted my dyno run and noticed the vsa light blinked a few times on the de-acceleration from the run if I used the brakes a bit. However during the pull I don't think I noticed it (I was driving the car on the dyno).
Also just a suggestion, but perhaps try a run in auto mode, I know you don't have that 3rd gear issue in manual mode where it pauses at around 5k for a sec, but I wonder if the car is quicker in auto than manual. Hmm a theory I'll have to test next time I play with the RSM.
Also just a suggestion, but perhaps try a run in auto mode, I know you don't have that 3rd gear issue in manual mode where it pauses at around 5k for a sec, but I wonder if the car is quicker in auto than manual. Hmm a theory I'll have to test next time I play with the RSM.
03-27-2007, 08:49 AM
#47
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by acuralvr1
What's this thread about?
Back on topic...
VSA actually MIGHT make a difference on the dyno. Why? Traction Control is integrated into VSA and if each of the wheels is spinning at a different velocity, no matter how slight, VSA is going to cut back on power to ensure uniform velocity at all 4 wheels. I think turning the VSA off during a dyno run on a AWD vehicle such as the RL would give more accurate results.
Thanks for taking the time to make these runs neuronbob. The numbers are on the lower side even after taking into account the AWD drivetrain loss, but I'm eager to see why this is so. I'd bet that the VSA and SH-AWD are somehow working together to screw things up. As I said above, consider trying the run without VSA so as to inhibit the TCS system, and see what kind of difference that yields.
03-27-2007, 08:49 AM
#48
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Touge
Also just a suggestion, but perhaps try a run in auto mode, I know you don't have that 3rd gear issue in manual mode where it pauses at around 5k for a sec, but I wonder if the car is quicker in auto than manual. Hmm a theory I'll have to test next time I play with the RSM.
Originally Posted by acuralvr1
What's this thread about?
EDIT: Hey vishnus11, we posted at the same time. I totally agree with you. Don't forget that Mustang dynos read low, too.
03-27-2007, 12:29 PM
#49
Safety Car
Input on Dyno Tests from TOV
I asked folks on TOV for input on the dyno tests.
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-messa...sage_id=669744
Some replies from notyper, who apparently owns a shop with an AWD dyno. He even says he will dyno an RL for free to TOV members in Southern California. Any takers?
***************************
notyper
Re: Acura RL Dyno Numbers (Score: 1, Normal) 03-26-2007 21:21
I've dyno'd SH-AWD vehicles (RDX) numerous times (but no RL - I'll dyno the next two TOV members with RL's in SoCal for free) and sometimes you'll get an SH-AWD error, but I've never seen it affect power and after the first run it goes away.
I see several things wrong with this.
1) They dyno'd with the hood closed. I use fans very similar to what Buschur is using and they can generate focused airflow of about 60 mph with corresponding surface pressures. But they cannot fill the whole front of a car up. This _will_ cost power vs. opening the hood since you'll have more of a pressure build up impeding cooling air flow.
2) The Mustang AWD dyno, while fine for tuning, has some variables that have to be set. This can be a real problem if you're trying to compare between cars. Also note that the rear wheel roller system is not movable - you just put the wheels wherever they land. This can introduce variability. Finally, the rear of the car seemed to be really strapped down, to the point the suspension was severely compressed (unless the car was lowered - mea culpa). This will certainly alter power at the wheels as increasing strap down tension reduces measured power due to tire loading (unless wheelspin is a problem).
Finally, for those quoting that the Mustang Dyno reads accurately and the Dynojet reads high, this has been shown to be incorrect. Using the inertia mode (not the loaded mode) of the Superflow, Dynojet and Mustang (available in multiple models) chassis dynos has been shown to result in losses of 14-16%. This was verified by the Southwest Research Institute (SWRI) who proceeded to measure cars on those dynos and then accurately measure losses from each of the driveline components (that's right - they put the tranny on a tranny dyno, measured losses through the axles, even measured tire losses independently). There is a paper on this available through the SAE website, but you'll have to pay $10 for it.
Why do I pay so much attention to this? People have told us that our Dynapacks read high, but in fact, they read higher than a Dynojet by about the amount you'd expect given that we lose the wheel and tire factors. The SWRI paper was a nice verification of the simulations we'd already ran.
SC
notyper
Re: Acura RL Dyno Numbers (Score: 1, Normal) 03-27-2007 12:33
I would also like to say that Buschur knows what he is doing. I've tuned a couple of his customer motors out here in Cali, including an EVO that made 800 whp.
I don't know why they'd choose to dyno hood down though. Unfortunately, changing your dyno procedure now will screw up the measurement process for gains from mods. But there is simply no way that the RL is going to produce 20-30 lbs-ft of torque more than hp - and based upon my experience dynoing SH-AWD cars, I don't think the system can be blamed. If VSA was the problem, I don't think the car would have accelerated at all, but it should be turned off nonetheless.
For reference, a stock TL 6MT puts down 238 on my dynos, a TL 5AT puts down about 228. A stock RDX puts down 210 (and 240 lbs-ft of torque). And a stock EVO8 puts down 235whp. This means the RDX is a bit underrated (and that should be no surprise as it weighs the same as the RL, has worse aero, yet returns similar 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with only slightly slower trap speeds). But the point is, these numbers indicate that the SH-AWD didn't seem to pose a problem, and my Dynapacks (uncoupled front/rear wheels) are usually more of an issue for AWD cars than the Mustang dynos are.
SC
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-messa...sage_id=669744
Some replies from notyper, who apparently owns a shop with an AWD dyno. He even says he will dyno an RL for free to TOV members in Southern California. Any takers?
***************************
notyper
Re: Acura RL Dyno Numbers (Score: 1, Normal) 03-26-2007 21:21
I've dyno'd SH-AWD vehicles (RDX) numerous times (but no RL - I'll dyno the next two TOV members with RL's in SoCal for free) and sometimes you'll get an SH-AWD error, but I've never seen it affect power and after the first run it goes away.
I see several things wrong with this.
1) They dyno'd with the hood closed. I use fans very similar to what Buschur is using and they can generate focused airflow of about 60 mph with corresponding surface pressures. But they cannot fill the whole front of a car up. This _will_ cost power vs. opening the hood since you'll have more of a pressure build up impeding cooling air flow.
2) The Mustang AWD dyno, while fine for tuning, has some variables that have to be set. This can be a real problem if you're trying to compare between cars. Also note that the rear wheel roller system is not movable - you just put the wheels wherever they land. This can introduce variability. Finally, the rear of the car seemed to be really strapped down, to the point the suspension was severely compressed (unless the car was lowered - mea culpa). This will certainly alter power at the wheels as increasing strap down tension reduces measured power due to tire loading (unless wheelspin is a problem).
Finally, for those quoting that the Mustang Dyno reads accurately and the Dynojet reads high, this has been shown to be incorrect. Using the inertia mode (not the loaded mode) of the Superflow, Dynojet and Mustang (available in multiple models) chassis dynos has been shown to result in losses of 14-16%. This was verified by the Southwest Research Institute (SWRI) who proceeded to measure cars on those dynos and then accurately measure losses from each of the driveline components (that's right - they put the tranny on a tranny dyno, measured losses through the axles, even measured tire losses independently). There is a paper on this available through the SAE website, but you'll have to pay $10 for it.
Why do I pay so much attention to this? People have told us that our Dynapacks read high, but in fact, they read higher than a Dynojet by about the amount you'd expect given that we lose the wheel and tire factors. The SWRI paper was a nice verification of the simulations we'd already ran.
SC
notyper
Re: Acura RL Dyno Numbers (Score: 1, Normal) 03-27-2007 12:33
I would also like to say that Buschur knows what he is doing. I've tuned a couple of his customer motors out here in Cali, including an EVO that made 800 whp.
I don't know why they'd choose to dyno hood down though. Unfortunately, changing your dyno procedure now will screw up the measurement process for gains from mods. But there is simply no way that the RL is going to produce 20-30 lbs-ft of torque more than hp - and based upon my experience dynoing SH-AWD cars, I don't think the system can be blamed. If VSA was the problem, I don't think the car would have accelerated at all, but it should be turned off nonetheless.
For reference, a stock TL 6MT puts down 238 on my dynos, a TL 5AT puts down about 228. A stock RDX puts down 210 (and 240 lbs-ft of torque). And a stock EVO8 puts down 235whp. This means the RDX is a bit underrated (and that should be no surprise as it weighs the same as the RL, has worse aero, yet returns similar 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with only slightly slower trap speeds). But the point is, these numbers indicate that the SH-AWD didn't seem to pose a problem, and my Dynapacks (uncoupled front/rear wheels) are usually more of an issue for AWD cars than the Mustang dynos are.
SC
03-27-2007, 01:09 PM
#51
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
***AWESOME INFO***Seeing patients, will add more excited responses to this info later.
03-27-2007, 01:27 PM
#52
AcurAdmirer
We may have to ask you to relinquish your physician's duties, Bob, as your slavish devotion to your patients seems to be getting in the way of your participation on this board.
It's all about priorities, and you simply have to keep yours straight ...
.
.
It's all about priorities, and you simply have to keep yours straight ...
.
.
03-27-2007, 04:53 PM
#53
Burning Brakes
Wow good info. It's nice to see what the other acura's are making.
I do agree that the hood should have been open (I totally missed this). I had the hood open in my dyno attempt and I could def see the engine was getting pretty hot. The dyno does put alot of stress on the car, so good air circulation is key.
LOL @ Mike's reply...but so true Bob =P
I do agree that the hood should have been open (I totally missed this). I had the hood open in my dyno attempt and I could def see the engine was getting pretty hot. The dyno does put alot of stress on the car, so good air circulation is key.
LOL @ Mike's reply...but so true Bob =P
03-27-2007, 09:24 PM
#55
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
OK, I'm in the room with the baby, who is FINALLY going to sleep.
Sorry guys, can't give up the day job
, that pays for the car and the mods. 
Mods make doc happy, happy doc treats patients better.
I'll post here and on TOV. Ordinarily, I wouldn't post there but this technical issue is special and I don't know whether notyper comes here.
OK, now to address the issues at hand:
Lesson learned, wish I had known this for the first run. But will just opening the hood gain me 30-40 hp? Just asking as I don't know this. At this point, I should probably redo a baseline run with the hood up and VSA off so I can get accurate numbers. If there is no time for this, I will simply repeat with the hood closed so I can get new numbers under the same circumstances as the original run--the original purpose of the dyno.
The car has the A-Spec suspension kit and wheels, so it is lowered about 3/4 inch and the wheels are 18"; though with the tires appropriately sized to keep the circumference the same as stock. It is also tied down pretty tightly. Which variables should I ask to be set on the Mustang?
Awesome objective information. May be worth spending the $10 just to learn more about this.
In other words, there goes my theory that SH-AWD is causing the low numbers.
Great information!
I can barely wait for Friday morning!!!!!!!!!
Sorry guys, can't give up the day job
, that pays for the car and the mods. Mods make doc happy, happy doc treats patients better. I'll post here and on TOV. Ordinarily, I wouldn't post there but this technical issue is special and I don't know whether notyper comes here.
OK, now to address the issues at hand:
They dyno'd with the hood closed. I use fans very similar to what Buschur is using and they can generate focused airflow of about 60 mph with corresponding surface pressures. But they cannot fill the whole front of a car up. This _will_ cost power vs. opening the hood since you'll have more of a pressure build up impeding cooling air flow.
The Mustang AWD dyno, while fine for tuning, has some variables that have to be set. This can be a real problem if you're trying to compare between cars. Also note that the rear wheel roller system is not movable - you just put the wheels wherever they land. This can introduce variability. Finally, the rear of the car seemed to be really strapped down, to the point the suspension was severely compressed (unless the car was lowered - mea culpa). This will certainly alter power at the wheels as increasing strap down tension reduces measured power due to tire loading (unless wheelspin is a problem).
Finally, for those quoting that the Mustang Dyno reads accurately and the Dynojet reads high, this has been shown to be incorrect. Using the inertia mode (not the loaded mode) of the Superflow, Dynojet and Mustang (available in multiple models) chassis dynos has been shown to result in losses of 14-16%. This was verified by the Southwest Research Institute (SWRI) who proceeded to measure cars on those dynos and then accurately measure losses from each of the driveline components (that's right - they put the tranny on a tranny dyno, measured losses through the axles, even measured tire losses independently). There is a paper on this available through the SAE website, but you'll have to pay $10 for it.
Why do I pay so much attention to this? People have told us that our Dynapacks read high, but in fact, they read higher than a Dynojet by about the amount you'd expect given that we lose the wheel and tire factors. The SWRI paper was a nice verification of the simulations we'd already ran.
Why do I pay so much attention to this? People have told us that our Dynapacks read high, but in fact, they read higher than a Dynojet by about the amount you'd expect given that we lose the wheel and tire factors. The SWRI paper was a nice verification of the simulations we'd already ran.
For reference, a stock TL 6MT puts down 238 on my dynos, a TL 5AT puts down about 228. A stock RDX puts down 210 (and 240 lbs-ft of torque). And a stock EVO8 puts down 235whp. This means the RDX is a bit underrated (and that should be no surprise as it weighs the same as the RL, has worse aero, yet returns similar 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with only slightly slower trap speeds). But the point is, these numbers indicate that the SH-AWD didn't seem to pose a problem, and my Dynapacks (uncoupled front/rear wheels) are usually more of an issue for AWD cars than the Mustang dynos are.
Great information!
I can barely wait for Friday morning!!!!!!!!!
03-27-2007, 10:46 PM
#56
More mud
Okay, since I did muddy the waters with the VSA question, I think I should add even more muck and mire and ask if anyone knows anyone who might know how to calibrate or set the SH-AWD so that front rear is 50-50? Why you ask? Because I think it might be a more accurate measure and would “possibly” eliminate some of the bias caused by the two drums on the dyno (with only one set of wheels directly over the drum and therefore probably inducing errors) and the slippage of SH-AWD and VSA. I presume that Acura has some sort of testing or calibration setup to achieve this (though it’s probably deep in the bowels of some setup and testing routine that we mere mortals are never supposed to see or hear about). If they didn’t, how would the SH-AWD ‘know” if it was sending 60% or any percentage to the rear wheels or the left or right side? The computer has to have some sort of a baseline that says “at such and such a resistance with the potentiometer reading xyz and the accelerometer reading xyz and the wheels turning at such and such RPM the percentages of drive to each wheel is …. To achieve that information the computer would need something that it can use as the base. Okay so I could be very wrong, but what if the computer systems gets so screwed up, wouldn’t there be some sort of setting where a tech enters a temporary setting that tells all wheels to drive at the same percentage, then the computer system could measure everything and correct itself so that each wheel was actually operating the same as all the others and then use that information to re-calibrate all the sensors? Does anyone have the contacts or the access to electronic setup manuals (maybe by Helms) that might be able to discern that setting? Yes, I do understand that the chances of this are miniscule at best, but if you never try, you never know. And yes, I know that it borders on being fanatical, but let’s face it, most the of Acura owners I now ‘are’ fanatics. That’s half the fun isn’t it?
03-28-2007, 12:32 PM
#57
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
notyper's answer to my questions over in TOV:
My answers:
They definitely ran the dyno in third gear. There was no temperature monitoring and they didn't measure RPM (then again, this wasn't a true "tuning" dyno, this was just a quick run for comparison). The rpm referred to in the screenshot was of the wheels of the dyno, not of the engine.
Thanks again, you are giving a lot of info to this dyno noob.
Originally Posted by notyper
It is hard to say how much the car will gain with the hood open, but I'd be surprised if it were less than 10 hp.
What is really important is that the car's intake and coolant temperatures be monitored. Did they plug a scan tool into the vehicle at all to watch these things? As you probably know, the coolant gauge on Hondas is an idiot gauge. Once it gets to about 160 F, the gauge doesn't move again till after about 230 F. However, while optimal running temps are in the 185-200F range, higher temps will result in a richer mixture and a reduction in ignition timing. Same thing with intake temperatures. This isn't to say these temps were in the bad range for your test, but if you don't monitor them, you won't know.
In terms of variables, you'll want to know if they're doing the test in inertia mode or loaded mode. If the test is done in loaded mode, you'll want to know the load times. A short load time will reduce power measured (higher inertial losses in the driveline), a long load time will do the reverse. There may also be a variable for driveline inertia, vehicle weight and aero loads.
Finally, I noticed on the screens you scanned that there were two interesting items. 1) The runs ended at about 90 mph. The RL redlines at 105 mph in 3rd gear if I'm not mistaken. So the car may not have been run to redline if the data is correct (I can't tell to be sure) 2) There was a screenshot of the dyno showing 5000 rpm and 99 mph which would indicate being in 4th gear - did they run in 4th gear at all? Did they have a lead hooked up to the ignition to measure rpm? You don't have to have this, but if you don't, you need to enter the gear ratio properly to calculate torque since the torque measured at the wheels is multiplied by the tranny and differential ratios (e.g. - in 3rd gear, measured torque would be X*1.07*4.60). Getting these ratios wrong would affect the calculated torque value you were given (might explain why the torque numbers were so high). This is a common mistake (if it was made) and I've made it before too. The bad news is, even if this mistake was made, it won't change the power reading, only torque.
Basically, find out what mode they're dynoing in, rev it all the way to the limiter, open the hood and monitor coolant and intake temps. But, for comparison purposes, make sure you dyno it exactly like they did last time first so you know what your mods did for you.
SC
What is really important is that the car's intake and coolant temperatures be monitored. Did they plug a scan tool into the vehicle at all to watch these things? As you probably know, the coolant gauge on Hondas is an idiot gauge. Once it gets to about 160 F, the gauge doesn't move again till after about 230 F. However, while optimal running temps are in the 185-200F range, higher temps will result in a richer mixture and a reduction in ignition timing. Same thing with intake temperatures. This isn't to say these temps were in the bad range for your test, but if you don't monitor them, you won't know.
In terms of variables, you'll want to know if they're doing the test in inertia mode or loaded mode. If the test is done in loaded mode, you'll want to know the load times. A short load time will reduce power measured (higher inertial losses in the driveline), a long load time will do the reverse. There may also be a variable for driveline inertia, vehicle weight and aero loads.
Finally, I noticed on the screens you scanned that there were two interesting items. 1) The runs ended at about 90 mph. The RL redlines at 105 mph in 3rd gear if I'm not mistaken. So the car may not have been run to redline if the data is correct (I can't tell to be sure) 2) There was a screenshot of the dyno showing 5000 rpm and 99 mph which would indicate being in 4th gear - did they run in 4th gear at all? Did they have a lead hooked up to the ignition to measure rpm? You don't have to have this, but if you don't, you need to enter the gear ratio properly to calculate torque since the torque measured at the wheels is multiplied by the tranny and differential ratios (e.g. - in 3rd gear, measured torque would be X*1.07*4.60). Getting these ratios wrong would affect the calculated torque value you were given (might explain why the torque numbers were so high). This is a common mistake (if it was made) and I've made it before too. The bad news is, even if this mistake was made, it won't change the power reading, only torque.
Basically, find out what mode they're dynoing in, rev it all the way to the limiter, open the hood and monitor coolant and intake temps. But, for comparison purposes, make sure you dyno it exactly like they did last time first so you know what your mods did for you.
SC
They definitely ran the dyno in third gear. There was no temperature monitoring and they didn't measure RPM (then again, this wasn't a true "tuning" dyno, this was just a quick run for comparison). The rpm referred to in the screenshot was of the wheels of the dyno, not of the engine.
Thanks again, you are giving a lot of info to this dyno noob.
03-28-2007, 12:53 PM
#58
Burning Brakes
Well in reference to the temp's, when we attempted the run I recorded a peak of 100C which is 212F, at which point the engine fans kick in, so I waited till the temp dropped back to a cooler temp of 84-90C and then did the pull. Of course keep in mind that's with the hood open.
However I don't think we can completely eliminate sh-awd as not being the issue. Notyper mentions that his dyno is a dynopack. These have no rollers to turn and the wheels are removed of the car. I think this type of dyno might give us a more accurate representation for the RL also. Amuse in Japan when they tuned there ecu was also using a Dynopack. So what I'm saying that is appears on this type of dyno if the RDX has no issues, I'd expect the same for the RL.
However I don't think we can completely eliminate sh-awd as not being the issue. Notyper mentions that his dyno is a dynopack. These have no rollers to turn and the wheels are removed of the car. I think this type of dyno might give us a more accurate representation for the RL also. Amuse in Japan when they tuned there ecu was also using a Dynopack. So what I'm saying that is appears on this type of dyno if the RDX has no issues, I'd expect the same for the RL.
03-28-2007, 01:41 PM
#59
Safety Car
Here is a link to TOV where notyper is tuning an RDX engine. It is very long, but I guess i would concentrate on responses from notyper. While not specifically RL, there is a lot of good info on the SH-AWD system and his experiences, which may be able to translate over here. The RDX appears to have a less sophisticated version of the RL SH-AWD
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-messa...ge%5fid=654738
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-messa...ge%5fid=654738
03-29-2007, 08:34 PM
#60
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Almost at point of no return/event horizon
I just looked at those instructions for the CAI install. I was planning to keep the stock resonator, etc. to return to stock if I sell the car. However part of the install requires drilling some rivets out. Looks permanent? Is it? Sorry for the basic question....
...made first use of the rear seat passthrough in the RL. The exhaust fits perfectly. I thought for a bit that I was going to have to involve the wife and her Pilot in my tomfoolery. Phew!
Appointment is at 8 AM EDT tomorrow. Keeping fingers crossed that my car won't be FUBAR. Should have an initial report by 1 PM...
...made first use of the rear seat passthrough in the RL. The exhaust fits perfectly. I thought for a bit that I was going to have to involve the wife and her Pilot in my tomfoolery. Phew!
Appointment is at 8 AM EDT tomorrow. Keeping fingers crossed that my car won't be FUBAR. Should have an initial report by 1 PM...
03-29-2007, 09:18 PM
#61
Burning Brakes
Nope no drilling needed on a RL. That's only on a TL. Bob look at the RL instructions/tip page included with the bracket =).
Good to know about the exhaust, I think ours arrives next week
Good to know about the exhaust, I think ours arrives next week
03-30-2007, 07:25 AM
#62
Community Architect
robb m.
robb m.
when i dyno'd my CL-S and TL-S, th VSA system did not like it one bit. THe spinning front tires, and stationary rears had every light on my dash lit up and flashing. Even the lights by the shift gate were flashing.
It took 15kms of driving around b4 the system stopped being mad at me.
I have no doubt it's a combination of the VSA & SH-AWD systems that are giving you grief on the dyno.
I can't wait to read the next update.
It took 15kms of driving around b4 the system stopped being mad at me.
I have no doubt it's a combination of the VSA & SH-AWD systems that are giving you grief on the dyno.
I can't wait to read the next update.
03-30-2007, 10:36 AM
#63
5Zigen Acura RL
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Age: 54
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Originally Posted by neuronbob
I just looked at those instructions for the CAI install. I was planning to keep the stock resonator, etc. to return to stock if I sell the car. However part of the install requires drilling some rivets out. Looks permanent? Is it? Sorry for the basic question....
...made first use of the rear seat passthrough in the RL. The exhaust fits perfectly. I thought for a bit that I was going to have to involve the wife and her Pilot in my tomfoolery. Phew!
Appointment is at 8 AM EDT tomorrow. Keeping fingers crossed that my car won't be FUBAR. Should have an initial report by 1 PM...
...made first use of the rear seat passthrough in the RL. The exhaust fits perfectly. I thought for a bit that I was going to have to involve the wife and her Pilot in my tomfoolery. Phew!
Appointment is at 8 AM EDT tomorrow. Keeping fingers crossed that my car won't be FUBAR. Should have an initial report by 1 PM...
03-30-2007, 10:37 AM
#64
10th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Great thread guys!
I was contemplating the VSA & SH-AWD issues being discussed and trying to think of ways to get more information. While it would be great if Buschur lets you sit in the car during the dyno run, I haven’t see many companies out there that will let anyone sit in the car.
In light of that, what about using a camcorder held in place by the headrest pointing towards the dash. Put the MID on the SH-AWD display to get an indication of what it’s doing, and you could also see if the VSA (and any other) light were coming on. It would also give the rest of us a chance to see the dyno run taking place!
I was contemplating the VSA & SH-AWD issues being discussed and trying to think of ways to get more information. While it would be great if Buschur lets you sit in the car during the dyno run, I haven’t see many companies out there that will let anyone sit in the car.
In light of that, what about using a camcorder held in place by the headrest pointing towards the dash. Put the MID on the SH-AWD display to get an indication of what it’s doing, and you could also see if the VSA (and any other) light were coming on. It would also give the rest of us a chance to see the dyno run taking place!
03-30-2007, 11:56 AM
#65
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
To keep things uncluttered, I am ending this thread and directing further discussion to:
My RL dyno'ed part 2
My RL dyno'ed part 2
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