Looking for CMBS error solution.

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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 01:46 PM
  #1  
gman44116's Avatar
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Looking for CMBS error solution.

CMBS/ACC Error 30 popped up 4 days ago.
Battery tested at 12.64 V.
Did a battery reset.
Rechecked battery connections.
Cleaned off the grill and front logo.

Keyless locks stopped as well.

Any other suggestions? Could it still be the battery?
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 02:22 PM
  #2  
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From: RVa
yes
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 08:22 PM
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^^^^^^^

Any thoughts on not paying dealer for diagnostics? Acura battery was replaced by dealer (prior owner) back in 2010.
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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I could still be your battery. 4 years is well beyond average for this car. One way or another, you are going to have to buy a battery in the next year or so. I would use take the opportunity now and avoid potentially unnecessary diagnostics ($100 anyway) and debug.

Last edited by oo7spy; Jan 3, 2014 at 10:24 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by oo7spy
I could still be your battery. 4 years is well beyond average for this car. One way or another, you are going to have to buy a battery in the next year or so. I would use take the opportunity now and avoid potentially unnecessary diagnostics ($100 anyway) and debug.
If the battery is still pushing 12.64V, if my understanding is correct its functioning fine. Can the CCA be low if the volts are still at 100%?

The second battery is under warranty if I'm correct.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 07:37 AM
  #6  
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Resting voltage means nothing, really. A more prudent test would be with the ignition in position II without the car on. Even then, many RLs pass dealer and auto shop battery tests under load and still have battery issues.

I have a feeling you will have a hard time claiming warranty. Acura will play dumb and demand a receipt and will likely say it can't be transferred if you do produce one. Or, they will claim the battery is fine and charge you to diagnose false issues. It's worth a try, but don't be surprised if they deny the claim like they have to so many others here.
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 11:53 AM
  #7  
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Update.
Thought it was the battery. Still had 60% coverage on replacement battery so had battery replaced. Cranking on old was 317. Almost cooked. But, that wasn't the issue.

There's a $15 part called the brake switch assembly. The old one was loose.
If this switch malfunctions, cruise control is deactivated. The culprit for CMBS warning lights.
The stealership wanted $140 haha. It's a 5 minute time frame to replace. DIY.
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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I have the same problem with the CMBS light on (code 30). Where and how did you change the brake switch assembly?

Thanks
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 10:39 PM
  #10  
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If it is the same one that fucks with the CHMSL, it is on the brake pedal bracket.
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