another known problem is car wont start every time, may happen several times a month or not at all. scwsmom had this isssue and I have the same issue as scwsmom - exactly. car in dealership now- nobody has a clue. just called to check the ignition relay just like she mentioned & hopefully this will be corrected. I have an RL 3.5 2000 which seems perfect otherwise. Did not know about the homelink but will check into it as mine does not operate with the Sears garage door opener that I have. Does anyone else have this issue? thanks for any info - I have a 2000 RL 3.5.

 

I've noticed that if I'm in gear on a steep incline the car will start to roll backward unless I give enough gas to go forward. Vice Versa when in reverse. Not so with my Audi A6. The car locks in place if I'm in gear until I give it gas.

Anyone else experience this. I have to put my foot on the brake to keep from rolling backward when I'm stopped and in gear on an incline. I thought that was a basic feature of most transmissions?

 

Since someone has revived this thread, here's an answer to this post. Homelink is compatible with just about every garage opener out there. If all else fails you can give Homelink a call and they'll walk you through it.

 

thanks for this info- but per Acura, this is not the case. Homelink is not compatible with some Sears garage door openers. I did call Homelink & didnt work. I remain using my old garage door opener.

 

My neighbor said the same thing until he tried these instructions I printed for him. They worked on his Sears. Give it a try the price is right!


The manual for our TL leaves out important steps for programming the car's Homelink system for those of us that have "Rolling Code Systems"- any newer garage goor opener. I was on the phone with Wayne from Homelink for an hour to get my system up and running for my 2 Acura vehicles.

1-800-355-3515
www.homelink.com

1. Position vehicle within 10 feet of garage door- engine off and battery on.

2. Press/hold 2 outside buttons of Homelink transceiver until red indicator starts flashing rapidly, then release button. This should take about 20 seconds. This erases any previuosly learned codes.

3. Press/hold remote control button and press/hold button of Homelink transceiver simultaneously. Slowly move remote control from 5" away to 1" away. Release both buttons after red indicator starts blinking rapidly. This should take about 5 seconds. I discovered that the Homelink in my TL is a bit faulty because it took much longer to accomplish this than when programming the Homelink in my MDX. My TL's Homelink may "unlearn" it's code in the future and the needed proximity of the TL to the garage door may be much closer than desired until I get the Homelink fixed.

4. Press training button on garage door opener unit until the indicator lights illuminates- this should be immediate.

5. Wthin 30 seconds press/hold the Homelink button for 2-3 seconds until the red indicator starts flashing rapidly. Repeat a second time. It should now be programmed. Check it by pressing programmed button on Homelink transceiver.

6. When programming more than 1 garage door opener unit, disconnect power from unit before programming more units.

Problems:

Battery in garage door remote control may be too weak to program Homelink. However, the battery may be strong enough to operate garage door. One of my remote controls had a weak battery- my system was installed today, fresh out of the box. I had to use the second remote control for the programming of Homelink on my 2 vehicles.

Antenna on garage door opener unit must be hanging down, fully extended.

 

I'm repeating my question from earlier in this post. I really want to know if this is normal for this tranny?


I've noticed that if I'm in gear on a steep incline the car will start to roll backward unless I give enough gas to go forward. Vice Versa when in reverse. Not so with my Audi A6. The car locks in place if I'm in gear until I give it gas.

Anyone else experience this. I have to put my foot on the brake to keep from rolling backward when I'm stopped and in gear on an incline. I thought that was a basic feature of most transmissions?

 

I seem to be having issues with the front left light. It flickers then shuts off. If i turn the lights all the way off, then back on it comes back on. Is the light going bad or is it an electrical issue on the 2005 RL?

 

In response to question about car not holding on a hill unless you depress the gas pedal, there is no mechanical link between engine and trans thus there is nothing to prevent roll back

 

lighting of frontlight. i had the same problem in my 2005 rl it was just fix by acura of avon. they tried to blame me for putting a alarm in my car, that only was a three wire hookup. but i had this problem three months into owning car no alarm in car! it was tried to repair over four time by different dealers. but it was complete by avon of acura. so if in ct state call jerry in service. tell him front lights cut off and please remove any alarm systems!!! i hope this helps.

 

Issue resolved. I have a 2005 RL as well. Apparently, there is a component on the headlight set-up that is failing. Something called an "IGNITER". I had my right headlight go out on me about 8 weeks ago. Took it in and the tech said the "headlight igniter has failed". Go figure six weeks later, the left one went out.

 

I've been having chronic flickering on my left headlight. I've never completely lost the light output (yet). After a long wait (6-8 weeks) for a replacement, my igniter was replaced and its had no impact on the flickering problem.

 

See the article in the August Acura Service News
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/B070800.PDF

Headlight Flickering? Check for Dying HID Bulb
Revised 9/4/07

Currently Applies To: ’05–08 RLs

Got a vehicle in your shop for a flickering headlight?
Check for a dying HID bulb before doing anything
else.

To check if this is what’s happening, swap the HID
bulb with a known-good one. If the headlight shines
steadily, replace the original bulb. There’s no need to
replace an expensive HID unit.

News Flash! Your dealership will soon be sent an
HID bulb test light assembly (HID checker)
(T/N 07AAJ-S3MA100). This required special tool
lets you quickly check for a dying HID bulb without
the hassle of swapping that bulb with a known-good
one. Watch for it!

 

Bought my new '07 RL at the end of April...everything fine till...end of October, out of nowhere, my glovebox door starts rattling...as soon as I start the car and the engine idles, I get this rattle rattle tic tic tic...If I push on the glove box door it stops. Taking it to Acura on Monday see if they can fix it. Anyone else have similar problem and any fix???? thnks

 

don't mess with it...allow it to keep rattling so the technician can see the problem. if you mess with it, it may make the problem disappear. Usually problems like this is very easy to fix as long as the tech can hear it.

 

Something within the motor is loose and rattling. Had thought it was a loose belt as the clunking is much louder with the AC on.

Service appt scheduled for this Friday to investigate this, repair the blown center console lights (again), and look at the paint mismatch on the bumper and mirrors.

Ironically, all this began to happen right after 53k miles aka out of warranty. Our RL thinks she's german.. help!!

 

Got the car back today.. broken belt tensioner bolt.

As for the paint, service manager had stated that the earlier pearl white TL's had the same problem and he stated that his regional manager had never approved of any remediation. He told me that it's been noted in my service records and that it'd be best for me to take the next step and call Acura.

 

It appears that our RL is going back in.. the tensioner bolt or something related is loose and it sounds like something is slipping when accelerating with the wheel cocked to the right. Reminds me of a failing CV, but I doubt that'd be the case here.

We're becoming quite fed up with Curry acura service now. I've asked 5 times for them to fix the lights in the center console, and they still have corrected the problem. The bulb(s) are not seated correctly and thus the buttons do not illuminate properly. I can plainly see the lightbulb shining through the trim pieces, and I've tried fixing it but my meaty hands are too wide and short to get down in there to do it.

Also, it appears that the joker who put on our regular tires decided to pump the driver front and pass rear tires up to 48lbs, and the pass front and driver rear to 28lbs. Har har Curry Acura

 

Anyone have a problem with the AC. It was working fine one day then all of a sudden it was just blowing hot air even at 59 degree temp. Then i took it to my local mechanic the next day and he checked the pressure under the hood and said it was fine and then magically the AC started working again. He says it might be an electrical issue?

Should i take this to the dealer and get it checked out and if so, its under warranty?

 

This thread used to be a sticky, but I unstuck it a while ago to reduce clutter. However, because there are so many people on lately with "new" used 2005s, I felt it might be helpful to bring it back.

Enjoy!

 

My key fob communicates with the car nicely to set the seat, steering, wheel and mirrors. I noticed a couple of months ago that in order for the steering wheel to reset from the "rest" position (up and in toward the dash) I had to hold in the starting control on the steering column until the wheel came to my pre-set before turing to the start position. If I just turned it quickly it wouldn't complete the travel and I would have to push the button on the door.
Yesterday when the car was serviced at the dealer the battery was replaced under warranty because it was weak. Now the steering wheel completes its motion without the need to hold in the starting control.
This was noted in another thread and my experience is further confirmation. Hard to control those electrons!

 

I have had my 2005 RL in for service a number of times and mentioned the problem with the steering wheel not resetting to the same memory position
and they played dumb and told me there was no problem, they said they could not replicate the problem. I told them that every time I would get into the car the wheel came up to a diffrent position. I tried diffrent things and the wheel would intermittently come back up or not come back, it was really annoying. The dealer shut off the steering wheel reset so it stays in one position. thats great however now from entering and exiting the car the weather stripping on the door and the left side of the seat are wearing out.

 

I had same problem ,they replaced the battery and it corrected the problem

 

Thank You for the reply I'll have to see if my dealer will spring for a battery?
plus the weather stripping and seat cover.

 

I concur that it is battery.

 

2005+ RLs have a 4 year / unlimited mileage warranty with no pro-rating. You may still be under warranty and able to get a new battery.

I believe this warranty now applies to all Acura models. I think that is exceptional as I have never owned a new vehicle where the battery did not die near the 2 year mark, usually with no warning.

I have also noticed a periodic interruption in my steering wheel auto power adjust by memory setting. If I turn the ignition ON and wait for it to reach position, then crank, it is fine. Sometimes, however, if I crank the ignition imediately, it will halt the auto positioning and I need to tap the MEM 1 preset on the driver door for it to complete.

When I mentioned it to my tech he said he would check the battery on my next visit to see if it was losing charge and potentially replace the battery. I did not even have to bring up the warranty!

 

wish I would have looked at the warranty before I replaced my battery
Tampa - as for the wheel stopping its telescoping when you crank, that is exactly the symptom I had when battery was weak. After start, it will not resume unless you press the mem. The positive news is that its a good warning of a weak battery before it completely dies.

 

I have my steering wheel set to tilt all the way down and telescope out pretty far (I have my seat moved all theway back).

I used to notice the same thing where the steering wheel wouldn't go to it's preset, and the light on the memory button on the door wouldn't light.

I figured out what was happening. Since the steering wheel/column would have to travel quite a bit, there were times where I would shift out of park before the steering wheel/column would finish it's travel, and that would interrupt it. It's not about cranking (for me), but about shifting out of PARK.

I now make sure that I wait just a bit more, and I've noticed that I've never had that situation happen again. The steering wheel always goes to it's setting and the light always illuminates.

 

gohawks - yes, there are 2 different symptoms
one - the steering wheel stops telescoping during cranking and does not resume, this is the ad battery symptom
two - the one you described where you shift our of park before it completes the telescoping. that is just as designed.

 

Well thanks for the warning. I haven't had the RL out for 5 days and tonight when I was heading out for dinner,,,,,dead battery!

After jumpstarting the car, the NAVI was locked. The check oil light was on, but after dinner, it reset to regular MID dislay. Must find that NAVI code. Or I guess I will wait until my tech replaces the battery tomorrow and let him reset it. At least my XM channels were working, but nothing on the NAVI display as it was locked.

 

Ok so in a continuation to my post about the memory wheel not returning to the full extended position, the comon consensus was that a weak battery was the problem, I did have a weak battery that was replaced under warranty, however the wheel sill has a mind of its own sometime it goes all the way up some time it doesen't.
If I hold the ignition switch in untill the wheel fully extends I frequently have a problem turning the switch to start the car, I have to jiggle it or play with the wheel to start he car.
Gordon

 

Gordon,

Sounds like a compound issue, and the weak battery was only one cause? Since I had my battery replaced a few days ago, mine operates correctly each time now. Perhaps there is a problem with your ignition switch / wheel lock. Hopefully you dealer is patient and you will be able to recreate it for them.

My only other thought is, something electrical is causing your battery to drain / weaken again?

 

actually, you do not have to hold the ignition switch at all to start engine. just turn it to start position and let go (almost like pushing a button). The car starts without holding it.
Does not sound like your issue, but the wheel will stop telescoping if you put the car in gear before it is complete.

 

The only way to be sure the wheel extends fully is to hold the ignition switch in until the wheel is fully extended. I never touch the gear shift until the wheel stops.
To start the car you can just tap the starter the car automaticly starts, but sometimes the wheel fully extends and sometimes it stops before it should without touching the shifter.
thanks.

 

2005s have an unlimited mileage warranty??? Since when???

 

Are you referring to the battery warranty?

"Refer to owners manual for specific details. 2005-2006 model year battery coverage 4/unlimited, no pro-rate."

http://www.carfax.com/car_safety/rat...ACURA/model/RL

 

i get this same problem on my 05 acura rl.. started happening this winter.. wierd squealing noise.. any idea why? even when the car is warm and all it happens..

 

i got an 05 acura rl that does that same thing.. its annoying as hell.. grr :\ and no.. no fix.. im sure the dealership will charge mounds of $ for a simple fix..

 

I get this problem too. Only for first couple of miles I drive in the morning or after the car is parked for more than 5 hours. Anyone know what it could be. Only started happening in cold weather.

 

I picked up my CPO 2005 Acura RL after an A13 Servicing on Friday 23JAN2009. No previous machanical issues and was servicing the car when indicated. Well at 6PM yesterday was returning home decided to stop and pick up some groceries. Started the car and a high pitch whining started, grinding sound under center console, and POP! No power steering, No AC and limped the car back to the dealer approx 1 mile. Luckily I made it just in time to drop off the car. The dealer will check it out on Monday. Is there anything I should be worried about besides expecting just replacing a belt?

Thanks
JRios

 

Something I consider a quirk is the fact that while the CD drive in the 05 RL can play a DVDAudio burned onto a DVDR disc it cannot play MP3s burned onto a DVDR disc, thus forcing you to create CDR discs for your MP3s. Since the drive can clearly read a DVDR, lack of support for them for playing MP3s is just plain silly.