Hello,

I am having a problem with my remote fob not recognizing my Acura RL 2006. I have spent a couple of hours searching these forums and have found a lot of information involving the topic but none with my symptoms.

Here is what I know

* Car can be unlocked with physical key and started. Interior lights turn on as well as the headlights. The drivers and passenger door handle light DOES turn on.
* No blown fuses including the #7
* When the car is locked, grabbing the door handles (Driver/Passenger) and trunk flashes the red remote light.
* When I get into the car, the welcome message comes on but not the Driver 1 or 2 message. Ignition wont turn over without physical key.

I have noticed that the remote has been touchy in regards to shortened distance to lock/unlock, button pressing changed from a normal press to unlock to just barely pressing to activate the button function (unlock/lock). I never tested the panic button nor do I remember the trunk button working. I DID change the batteries. CR2520

I know that remedies have been to replace the handle or do a hard reset by touching both the positive terminal and negative battery cables together for a minute? ??

Is it possible that the key fob is broken? Even though it flashes when I grab the door handle?

Any help would be great before I head to the dealership.

Side Note: I bought the car with 1 key fob (Driver 2) and recently bought a driver 1 off ebay that hasn't been programmed yet.

 

Does the same thing happen when you touch both the inside (unlock) and outside (lock) part of the exterior driver door handle?
Do the same symptoms occur when you touch the passenger side handle?
Do the remote buttons work as they should for lock, unlock, trunk, and panic (without touching the car)?

Depending on your answers to the above, it could be that you just need the fob reprogrammed to the car again, or there could be a problem with the fob itself.

 

Hey,

Thanks for responding.

With the doors locked (manually with key), the drivers door outside handle 'bump' sensor is the only place where the fob DOES NOT flash the red light. If I reach inside the handle on drivers side, the red light flashes. The passenger side outer sensor DOES cause the fob to flash red light as well as the inside. Trunk, yes flashing red light.

The remote FOB doesn't have any functionality other than when you press the desired button, the red light comes on once.

This morning when starting the car (32degreesF), the Nav code and radio code needed to be inputted. After this entry, the next stop/start didn't require them to be inputted again.

* Last week, I left the dome light on in the car overnight and drained the battery just enough that it almost, but not enough juice to start the car. I jumped it with the cables without removing the fuse piece on the positive terminal....if that means anything.

* When you start the car, the correct driver 2 message is displayed. My first post, I mentioned that I didn't see that but now I do.

My feeling is that the drivers door handle has a bad sensor and is causing the system to not respond to the keyless entry or any FOB button presses. If that is correct, I read about someone pulling a particular fuse to allow the unlocking/locking with out the keyless entry. Which, until I can get the handle fixed, would be a good option for me.

* Which fuse would allow this?

Anything else worth checking? I already checked the fuse box...nothing.

Thanks

 

I assume the car doesn't allow keyless start either with the fob in the car??

From all your symptoms, it certainly sounds like the car just lost your fob programming and a reprogramming should fix it. Now what caused the programming to go away is a mystery. Even if you have a shorted driver door handle, the starting functionality of the fob should not be affected.

You might find that you still have a door handle problem after you get the fob reprogrammed, but that would be a separate issue.

 

Did you ever found a solution? I'm having the same problem for my car

 

Any updates ? I'm actually having a similar problem. I bought my 2007 RL with both original key fobs. However naturally I use driver 1 and never really bothered to test driver 2 as I had no use for it as I'm the only person who drives the car. Here's my issue. Driver 1 fob works perfectly fine no issues what so ever. Driver 2 fob doesn't lock, unlock or even open the trunk. When I get inside and try to start the car nothing happens. The ignition won't turn and the key fob will blink consecutively and then stop. However if I use the physical key and start the car manually it'll start but instead will say welcome driver 1. Not sure if programming The remote with other instructions I've read on other threads will fix the issue and I'm def not sure what would cause the remote to unprogram like that. Any input would be greatly appreciated thanks !

 

Fob Battery?

 

Resync the fob with the instructions on the back. The car will only welcome the fob number that last unlocked the car.

 

Resync by holding the lock and unlock buttons at the same time ? Sorry just want to clarify as there was multiple instructions lol

 

Nah batteries are new, I changed them before anything thinking that may have been the issue. But nope, driver 2 key won't do anything at all won't turn on the car keyless or open/unlock. Will only turn the car on manually with the physical key

 

Acura RL 2005-2012 Remote Programming Instructions

It seems the dealer will be your recourse. Sorry.

 

They are literally written on the back of the fob. If I had one, I would transcript it for you.

 

Oh I did not see spy's reply above. Here u go:

"Push 'unlock' & 'lock' at the same time to link/unlink keyless memory settings".

I suppose if that doesn't work, then u go to the dealer.

 

You have to hold lock and unlock for a certain amount of time and the fob will blink at you to acknowledge the procedure. One number of blinks means it's unsync'ed and another number of blinks means it's sync'ed.

 

:gheylaugh: Never really looked at the remote like that but yes I see what youre talking about now. Will try this tonight and hopefully it works. I'll keep ya'll posted

 

So resyncing the remote did not work guess its off to the dealer she goes Thanks for your input guys, greatly appreciated !

 

If one remote works, it means your Keyless Access Module is functional and points to a fob problem. I want to say I remember a suggestion about unsync'ing both fobs. Perhaps try unsync'ing fob2 and then fob1. The resync fob2 first and then fob1.

Another thing could be low batteries. Try new batteries or move the batteries from fob1 to fob2.

 

Okay, will try this tonight ! Hopefully this work because honestly, who wants to take a trip to the stealership ? Certainly not I lol Fingers crossed hopefully something gives !

 

The battery on my 05 rl died and I changed now the keyfob won't connect, dealer said it my run me like $400, there's nothing else I can do??

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...roblem-924750/

 

There is one thing you can do: search. If you had read the https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...u-post-789210/ sticky, you would've known.

 

I have a similar issue. Red lights blink on my remote when I touch the outside handles and says welcome driver 1. I tried reprogramming the remote per instructions on key fob and also replaced with new batteries. Don't know what I need to do next. Do I have to go to the dealer as a last resort?

 

If you put 2520 batteries in it, that's the problem. It takes 2 2025 batteries.

 

Super old thread. But this is insane. '05 RL. I have "successfully" programmed my fob using the instructions, but the car will not sense the fob in order to start. It WILL however sense the fob (from 15+ feet away mind you) to do everything else- doors, trunk, etc.

I love this car, but it is self-loathing. Between this cockamamy BS and the wacky transmission position sensor lighting it up like a christmas tree, I am about to call the junkyard on it.

 

Bump, Anyone?

 

So. To answer my own question, there are several levels of key/key fob programming for the second generation Acura RL. Snippets of all these can be found in various posts, threads, and DIYs. All but one requires interaction with a dealership or someone who has the correct programming tools.

1. The Key
The first level is the key itself- which has to be paired to the immobilizer. This can only be done at a location with the correct programming device, typically an Acura dealership. It is likely a Honda dealership will have this device, but not know how to use it for the Acura RL.

2. The Fob (for starting the car)
The second level is pairing your fob to your car's immobilizer. This will also allow the ignition will be released, allowing it to turn. This as well can only be performed at the dealership or equivalent.

3. The Fob (for lock/unlock/trunk/panic)
This you can do yourself! So if you have a workable key that allows you to start the car (by popping off the cover on the legacy "ignition" switch), You can slum it and have keyless entry/alarm and use your key like a normal human in a non-luxury car. This is the least cost option, and programming instructions can be found above in the thread. But if you have lost your keys (which contain the RFID signature paired with your specific immobilizer) OR if you want to start your car without the physical key, YOU. MUST. HAVE. IT. PROGRAMMED (likely at an Acura Dealership).

I won't go into Driver 1/Driver 2 stuff, that's well-covered.

 

Have you tried to start while keeping your cellphone and other electronics away from the fob?

If ur fob is in pocket near a cellphone, it won't work to start. but it does work to open the door from far. Hard to explain, but may be a security option so no one starts your car if you get out real quick without locking it.

 

The starting functionality and door lock functionality are very much separate. The starting functionality must be programmed by a separate device. You can program the door functionality separately yourself.