Help - my RL is dead
02-03-2009, 12:19 PM
#41
2013 RL or bust
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^^ I do like that new EPS steering, it's... different.. from what I'm used to, but me likey. Hey, do you feel like you catch people staring at you and that grille like what the.. no... man, no. HAHA!
Black 09 TL + painted grille + OEM 19s = pretty good, gettin there.... just gotta get more used to that rear end, but I think how offended I was by the front end makes me more acceptable to the rear lol.
Black 09 TL + painted grille + OEM 19s = pretty good, gettin there.... just gotta get more used to that rear end, but I think how offended I was by the front end makes me more acceptable to the rear lol.
02-04-2009, 09:41 AM
#42
Senior Moderator
Update
The HFL/Bluetooth module was way overdrawing. That part has been replaced. Just as my car was to be released to me this morning, though, the battery was dead again.
This time, it was the driver's side handle that was overdrawing current.
I know the HFL module was a significant issue for 2005 RLs, but why my 2006 with almost 2 1/2 years of use would go....who knows? Stuff happens.
The guys at the dealer are getting closer to a central cause.....
Kudos to them for keeping on it.
I sure could have used the RL for this morning's snowstorm, though.
TL stock tires suck wookie wang in the snow.
This time, it was the driver's side handle that was overdrawing current.
I know the HFL module was a significant issue for 2005 RLs, but why my 2006 with almost 2 1/2 years of use would go....who knows? Stuff happens.
The guys at the dealer are getting closer to a central cause.....
Kudos to them for keeping on it.I sure could have used the RL for this morning's snowstorm, though.
TL stock tires suck wookie wang in the snow.
02-04-2009, 11:28 AM
#44
I'll bet the HFL thing was just a guess on their part and hopefully the handle is in fact the true culprit. But does seem odd.
02-04-2009, 03:21 PM
#45
Senior Moderator
Yes, every single day, and I've never had any problems with it.
The service advisor gave me the specific amount of current the HFL was drawing, and it was higher than their spec. They might have guessed about checking it, but they certainly had objective evidence that the device was certainly drawing more than normal.
The service advisor gave me the specific amount of current the HFL was drawing, and it was higher than their spec. They might have guessed about checking it, but they certainly had objective evidence that the device was certainly drawing more than normal.
02-04-2009, 03:27 PM
#46
Yes, every single day, and I've never had any problems with it.
The service advisor gave me the specific amount of current the HFL was drawing, and it was higher than their spec. They might have guessed about checking it, but they certainly had objective evidence that the device was certainly drawing more than normal.
The service advisor gave me the specific amount of current the HFL was drawing, and it was higher than their spec. They might have guessed about checking it, but they certainly had objective evidence that the device was certainly drawing more than normal.
02-05-2009, 03:22 AM
#47
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I never use HFL.. I don't like talkin' on the phone much unless I need to. Also, I think I'm paranoid about my cell phone frequency inside the car, which makes it even stronger, but that's another story...
Interesting how the RL stays "on" even when you turn it off and leave the car. I'm not sure if I like it, but it's hard to give the RL grief for being so damn smart.. Part of the reason I bought it was to be smart for me! Oh, and I did push the HFL button on the wheel, and even though I didn't try to use it, I love seeing my interior on the NAV screen!
Interesting how the RL stays "on" even when you turn it off and leave the car. I'm not sure if I like it, but it's hard to give the RL grief for being so damn smart.. Part of the reason I bought it was to be smart for me! Oh, and I did push the HFL button on the wheel, and even though I didn't try to use it, I love seeing my interior on the NAV screen!
02-05-2009, 09:21 AM
#48
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I'm getting again a typical symptom of low battery-steering wheel won't return to preset position. Also, I have to keep the column switch in the start position to get the engine to start, that is new.
The latest battery was installed about 3 weeks ago but the dealer said the parasitic current check revealed no problems. I'm beginning to wonder about how thorough their check was.
The latest battery was installed about 3 weeks ago but the dealer said the parasitic current check revealed no problems. I'm beginning to wonder about how thorough their check was.
02-05-2009, 11:35 AM
#49
Senior Moderator
I wonder that, too. My guess is that it's to allow you to continue your phone call in the car after it's turned off for a few minutes.
I also note the same thing you do. If I'm in the front part of my house for the first ten minutes or so after I've parked the car, phone calls are routed to the car. Luckily, on my iPhone, there's a screen selection that allows one to change the speaker source.
foam4me, I'd take it back for another check.
I also note the same thing you do. If I'm in the front part of my house for the first ten minutes or so after I've parked the car, phone calls are routed to the car. Luckily, on my iPhone, there's a screen selection that allows one to change the speaker source.
foam4me, I'd take it back for another check.
02-05-2009, 12:10 PM
#50
I wonder that, too. My guess is that it's to allow you to continue your phone call in the car after it's turned off for a few minutes.
I also note the same thing you do. If I'm in the front part of my house for the first ten minutes or so after I've parked the car, phone calls are routed to the car. Luckily, on my iPhone, there's a screen selection that allows one to change the speaker source.
foam4me, I'd take it back for another check.
I also note the same thing you do. If I'm in the front part of my house for the first ten minutes or so after I've parked the car, phone calls are routed to the car. Luckily, on my iPhone, there's a screen selection that allows one to change the speaker source.
foam4me, I'd take it back for another check.
02-05-2009, 12:47 PM
#51
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According to the manual, the HFL stays on for 30 minutes. My only guess as to why is so that you can finish a conversation before you get out of the car w/out having to keep the car running (such as if you pulled into the garage).
02-06-2009, 11:11 AM
#52
I did not see that in the manual, but it does not work properly. Phone thinks it is linked to HFL, but I cannot answer call through HFL with car completely off. Works with engine off/accessories (radio) on, but not completely off.
02-06-2009, 02:05 PM
#53
Senior Moderator
My recent battery issues was attributed to the driver's side seat. Apparently it was the reason my battery was draining. After a few years of misfortune, I'm glad they diagnosed the problem and fixed it. 
02-06-2009, 03:34 PM
#54
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I don't use HFL, but it looks like my steering column doesn't want to lower after I start the car - after almost a year of the "new" battery installation.
To be more precise, the steering column doesn't move when I start the car in the morning. If somehow I need to drive the car after a couple of hours, more or less, the steering column WILL lower. I assume it might be due to the charging of the battery after driving for awhile.
To be more precise, the steering column doesn't move when I start the car in the morning. If somehow I need to drive the car after a couple of hours, more or less, the steering column WILL lower. I assume it might be due to the charging of the battery after driving for awhile.
02-06-2009, 04:22 PM
#55
Senior Moderator
UPDATE: They've had to engage Acura
Just spoke with my service rep. After replacing HFL and driver's handle, the battery still dies. He indicates that the car won't go into "sleep mode" after the ignition/power is turned completely off.
They've had to go to the Acura Techline for help. Good on them for still trying to figure it out. (and thank goodness it's still under warranty....whew...)
Anyone else had a "sleep mode" issue?
Figures my car would be an "interesting case", sounds a lot like my day job!
Still rocking the TL, and I'm enjoying it so much I'm thinking about test-driving the SH-AWD version.
They've had to go to the Acura Techline for help. Good on them for still trying to figure it out.
(and thank goodness it's still under warranty....whew...)Anyone else had a "sleep mode" issue?
Figures my car would be an "interesting case", sounds a lot like my day job!
Still rocking the TL, and I'm enjoying it so much I'm thinking about test-driving the SH-AWD version.
02-06-2009, 04:32 PM
#56
Just spoke with my service rep. After replacing HFL and driver's handle, the battery still dies. He indicates that the car won't go into "sleep mode" after the ignition/power is turned completely off.
They've had to go to the Acura Techline for help. Good on them for still trying to figure it out. (and thank goodness it's still under warranty....whew...)
Anyone else had a "sleep mode" issue?
Figures my car would be an "interesting case", sounds a lot like my day job!
Still rocking the TL, and I'm enjoying it so much I'm thinking about test-driving the SH-AWD version.
They've had to go to the Acura Techline for help. Good on them for still trying to figure it out.
(and thank goodness it's still under warranty....whew...)Anyone else had a "sleep mode" issue?
Figures my car would be an "interesting case", sounds a lot like my day job!
Still rocking the TL, and I'm enjoying it so much I'm thinking about test-driving the SH-AWD version.
02-06-2009, 04:34 PM
#57
Just noticed you (Bob) and UW RL both have 2006 Celestial RLs. Aha -must be a problem with that paint
02-06-2009, 06:24 PM
#58
Senior Moderator
July 2008 Acura ServiceNews may give an answer...
I found this by looking through our Acura ServiceNews bulletins. I wonder if this is the answer, rather than replacing electronic components one at a time. I also understand the sleep mode now. I'll bring this up with the service guys on Monday. I'm sure they've thought about B-CAN already but it can't hurt to mention it, I guess.
Originally Posted by Acura
Excessive Parasitic Draw? Check If the B-CAN System Is
Awake
Currently Applies To: ’06–09 MDX, ’07–09 RDX, ’05–09 RL, ’04–08 TL, and ’04–09 TSX
When it comes to parasitic draw, the body controller area network (B-CAN) system—first introduced in the ’04
TSX—is a major contributor. With the ignition switch turned to LOCK (0), all B-CAN-related components still
receive battery power. This gives the various control units such as the gauge control module, the multiplex
integrated control unit (MICU), the door multiplex control unit, the climate control unit, the power seat control unit,
etc., a means of communicating when, for instance, a power door lock switch input signal changes or there’s a
signal received from a keyless remote transmitter. Knowing what the B-CAN system does when you turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0) will help you to recognize if it’s causing an excessive parasitic draw problem. Normal
parasitic draw on a battery varies from model to model, depending on the number of control units involved. Just
remember if the draw is less than 50 mA, it’s normal; if it’s 50 mA or more, it’s excessive.
Wake-up Mode and Sleep Mode
The B-CAN system has two operating modes to reduce parasitic draw: the wake-up mode and the sleep mode.
With the ignition switch turned to ON (II), the system is in the wake-up mode. During this time, the system has both
+B power (HOT AT ALL TIMES) and IG1 power (HOT WITH IGNITION SWITCH ON) and there’s a parasitic draw
on the battery of about 200 mA or more. When you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), the system stays awake as
long as the key-off timer (part of the MICU) is running. The key-off timer shuts off when the B-CAN system receives
a door switch open input signal; otherwise, it shuts off right at 10 minutes. With the system now in the sleep mode,
the parasitic draw on the battery drops to less than 50 mA. It still has +B power (HOT AT ALL TIMES), though,
and there are a number of signal inputs that can wake it up to do some work. A good example is the power door
lock switch. When you push the switch to its lock or unlock position, the system wakes up, does whatever it needs
to do, and then goes back to sleep 5 seconds later.
Don’t Just Rely on Component Replacement
Many service techs replace B-CAN-related components because they think those components are causing the
excessive parasitic draw. When checking for excessive draw, they find that by pulling the backup fuse to the MICU,
the parasitic draw drops to normal. What they don’t realize, though, is that the real cause for the B-CAN system
staying awake could be a stuck door lock switch. If that door lock switch sticks in either its lock or unlock position
(the input signal stays on), the system won’t return to the sleep mode. This will keep an excessive parasitic draw on
the battery that will kill it in short order. Just how long that actually takes depends on the battery’s state of charge
and other variables. A parasitic draw of about 200 mA will usually kill a battery in about 2 days. So the bottom line
is this: When it comes to excessive parasitic draw, you can’t rely on component replacement to always fix things.
Even though the suspected component was replaced, there’s still an excessive parasitic draw problem that will
probably wind up in a comeback . . . not to mention one very unhappy service client.
Narrowing Things Down
An easy way to find out if the B-CAN system is staying awake—and causing an excessive parasitic draw
problem—is to momentarily short one B-CAN communication wire to ground. There are two types of
B-CAN systems: a slower (33.33 kbps) single-wire system, and a faster (125 kbps) two-wire system, which was
first introduced in the ’09 TSX. Shorting the single wire to ground (single-wire system) or the CAN_H wire to ground
(two-wire system) at any of the B-CAN-related components stops all B-CAN communication and puts all of the
control units into the sleep mode. If doing this gets rid of the excessive parasitic draw, then an input signal to one of
the control units or a control unit itself is keeping the system awake.
Finding the Culprit
There are two ways to find out which control unit is keeping the B-CAN system awake. One way is to use the All
Data List in the HDS to check for any abnormal switch inputs such as a door lock switch that stays on. Such inputs
will keep the system awake. The other way is to start unplugging the components on the B-CAN circuit one at a
time. When you unplug the suspected control unit, the rest of the B-CAN-related components will fall sleep. Make
sure there are no abnormal switch inputs to that control unit, though, such as a door lock switch that stays on,
otherwise the B-CAN system will stay awake.
Some Handy Tips
Without a doubt, chasing down an excessive parasitic draw problem can be time-consuming, even frustrating work.
Here are some handy tips to help make that job go just a little easier:
• Use the Auto Battery/Electrical System Analyzer (ED-18) to make sure the vehicle’s battery and charging
system are OK.
• Check to see if the vehicle has any aftermarket accessories. If it does, let the service consultant know right
away. He or she will need to get permission from your client before you can unplug or remove those
accessories.
• If the vehicle has a security system, make sure you unplug the hood switch to simulate a closed hood.
• To check for excessive parasitic draw, use the LH41A AC/DC Low Current Clamp Meter (Model No.
FLULH41A), a required special tool. Only clamp meters that match the LH41A’s resolution and accuracy specs
can be used to measure parasitic draw. See Meet the LH41A Clamp Meter! below for details.
• Check the vehicle under the same conditions reported by your client or written on the RO (for example, your
client reported all the doors were locked and the security system was turned on).
• After turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0), open and close the driver’s door to shut off the key-off timer.
On most vehicles, this will cut the time it takes for the B-CAN system to go into the sleep mode.
Meet the LH41A Clamp Meter!
Most clamp meters can’t check for excessive parasitic draw because they won’t detect the small electrical fields
that parasitic draw generates. Also, the jaws on many of these clamp meters are just too small to fit over battery
cables, making them unusable for this job. This is where the LH41A clamp meter comes in. This required special
tool has several important operating features:
• Zero Adjustment: The LH41A is really sensitive to magnetic fields and can change readings when you move
it. When doing a zero adjustment, hold the tool near the battery negative cable in the same position you’ll be
using it during testing. Make sure the jaws are closed and press the AUTO ZERO button.
• Power Switch: The LH41A has a three-position power switch: OFF HOLD, DC, and AC. Always slide the
switch to DC when you’re checking parasitic draw.
• Auto Power Off: With the power switch set to DC, the LH41A will power down after about 8 minutes of
inactivity.
• Data Hold: Sliding the power switch to OFF HOLD activates a data hold mode that displays the last measured
value for about 10 seconds. Once that time is up, the LH41A powers down.
• Auto Ranging: The LH41A has two available ranges: 4 amp and 40 amp. Use the decimal position in the
display to determine what range you’re in.
4 amp: X.XXX or .XXXX
40 amp: XX.XX
If you need to order more of these tools for your shop, give the Acura Tool and Equipment Program folks
a call at 888-424-6857. You can also order it online; it’s just a few clicks away on the iN. From the main menu,
click on SERVICE. You can then click on either Service Bay and Tool and Equipment Program or eMall and
Tool & Equipment Acura. Either way takes you to the Tool and Equipment Program webpage. Once there, click
on Online Catalog, enter the part number in the Search box, and click on Go!. You’re taken straight to the order
page.
To Learn More . . .
Want to sharpen your knowledge and skills on parasitic draw? Visit Online University, and check out skill module
ELS60 - Key-off Draw Testing.
Awake
Currently Applies To: ’06–09 MDX, ’07–09 RDX, ’05–09 RL, ’04–08 TL, and ’04–09 TSX
When it comes to parasitic draw, the body controller area network (B-CAN) system—first introduced in the ’04
TSX—is a major contributor. With the ignition switch turned to LOCK (0), all B-CAN-related components still
receive battery power. This gives the various control units such as the gauge control module, the multiplex
integrated control unit (MICU), the door multiplex control unit, the climate control unit, the power seat control unit,
etc., a means of communicating when, for instance, a power door lock switch input signal changes or there’s a
signal received from a keyless remote transmitter. Knowing what the B-CAN system does when you turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0) will help you to recognize if it’s causing an excessive parasitic draw problem. Normal
parasitic draw on a battery varies from model to model, depending on the number of control units involved. Just
remember if the draw is less than 50 mA, it’s normal; if it’s 50 mA or more, it’s excessive.
Wake-up Mode and Sleep Mode
The B-CAN system has two operating modes to reduce parasitic draw: the wake-up mode and the sleep mode.
With the ignition switch turned to ON (II), the system is in the wake-up mode. During this time, the system has both
+B power (HOT AT ALL TIMES) and IG1 power (HOT WITH IGNITION SWITCH ON) and there’s a parasitic draw
on the battery of about 200 mA or more. When you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), the system stays awake as
long as the key-off timer (part of the MICU) is running. The key-off timer shuts off when the B-CAN system receives
a door switch open input signal; otherwise, it shuts off right at 10 minutes. With the system now in the sleep mode,
the parasitic draw on the battery drops to less than 50 mA. It still has +B power (HOT AT ALL TIMES), though,
and there are a number of signal inputs that can wake it up to do some work. A good example is the power door
lock switch. When you push the switch to its lock or unlock position, the system wakes up, does whatever it needs
to do, and then goes back to sleep 5 seconds later.
Don’t Just Rely on Component Replacement
Many service techs replace B-CAN-related components because they think those components are causing the
excessive parasitic draw. When checking for excessive draw, they find that by pulling the backup fuse to the MICU,
the parasitic draw drops to normal. What they don’t realize, though, is that the real cause for the B-CAN system
staying awake could be a stuck door lock switch. If that door lock switch sticks in either its lock or unlock position
(the input signal stays on), the system won’t return to the sleep mode. This will keep an excessive parasitic draw on
the battery that will kill it in short order. Just how long that actually takes depends on the battery’s state of charge
and other variables. A parasitic draw of about 200 mA will usually kill a battery in about 2 days. So the bottom line
is this: When it comes to excessive parasitic draw, you can’t rely on component replacement to always fix things.
Even though the suspected component was replaced, there’s still an excessive parasitic draw problem that will
probably wind up in a comeback . . . not to mention one very unhappy service client.
Narrowing Things Down
An easy way to find out if the B-CAN system is staying awake—and causing an excessive parasitic draw
problem—is to momentarily short one B-CAN communication wire to ground. There are two types of
B-CAN systems: a slower (33.33 kbps) single-wire system, and a faster (125 kbps) two-wire system, which was
first introduced in the ’09 TSX. Shorting the single wire to ground (single-wire system) or the CAN_H wire to ground
(two-wire system) at any of the B-CAN-related components stops all B-CAN communication and puts all of the
control units into the sleep mode. If doing this gets rid of the excessive parasitic draw, then an input signal to one of
the control units or a control unit itself is keeping the system awake.
Finding the Culprit
There are two ways to find out which control unit is keeping the B-CAN system awake. One way is to use the All
Data List in the HDS to check for any abnormal switch inputs such as a door lock switch that stays on. Such inputs
will keep the system awake. The other way is to start unplugging the components on the B-CAN circuit one at a
time. When you unplug the suspected control unit, the rest of the B-CAN-related components will fall sleep. Make
sure there are no abnormal switch inputs to that control unit, though, such as a door lock switch that stays on,
otherwise the B-CAN system will stay awake.
Some Handy Tips
Without a doubt, chasing down an excessive parasitic draw problem can be time-consuming, even frustrating work.
Here are some handy tips to help make that job go just a little easier:
• Use the Auto Battery/Electrical System Analyzer (ED-18) to make sure the vehicle’s battery and charging
system are OK.
• Check to see if the vehicle has any aftermarket accessories. If it does, let the service consultant know right
away. He or she will need to get permission from your client before you can unplug or remove those
accessories.
• If the vehicle has a security system, make sure you unplug the hood switch to simulate a closed hood.
• To check for excessive parasitic draw, use the LH41A AC/DC Low Current Clamp Meter (Model No.
FLULH41A), a required special tool. Only clamp meters that match the LH41A’s resolution and accuracy specs
can be used to measure parasitic draw. See Meet the LH41A Clamp Meter! below for details.
• Check the vehicle under the same conditions reported by your client or written on the RO (for example, your
client reported all the doors were locked and the security system was turned on).
• After turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0), open and close the driver’s door to shut off the key-off timer.
On most vehicles, this will cut the time it takes for the B-CAN system to go into the sleep mode.
Meet the LH41A Clamp Meter!
Most clamp meters can’t check for excessive parasitic draw because they won’t detect the small electrical fields
that parasitic draw generates. Also, the jaws on many of these clamp meters are just too small to fit over battery
cables, making them unusable for this job. This is where the LH41A clamp meter comes in. This required special
tool has several important operating features:
• Zero Adjustment: The LH41A is really sensitive to magnetic fields and can change readings when you move
it. When doing a zero adjustment, hold the tool near the battery negative cable in the same position you’ll be
using it during testing. Make sure the jaws are closed and press the AUTO ZERO button.
• Power Switch: The LH41A has a three-position power switch: OFF HOLD, DC, and AC. Always slide the
switch to DC when you’re checking parasitic draw.
• Auto Power Off: With the power switch set to DC, the LH41A will power down after about 8 minutes of
inactivity.
• Data Hold: Sliding the power switch to OFF HOLD activates a data hold mode that displays the last measured
value for about 10 seconds. Once that time is up, the LH41A powers down.
• Auto Ranging: The LH41A has two available ranges: 4 amp and 40 amp. Use the decimal position in the
display to determine what range you’re in.
4 amp: X.XXX or .XXXX
40 amp: XX.XX
If you need to order more of these tools for your shop, give the Acura Tool and Equipment Program folks
a call at 888-424-6857. You can also order it online; it’s just a few clicks away on the iN. From the main menu,
click on SERVICE. You can then click on either Service Bay and Tool and Equipment Program or eMall and
Tool & Equipment Acura. Either way takes you to the Tool and Equipment Program webpage. Once there, click
on Online Catalog, enter the part number in the Search box, and click on Go!. You’re taken straight to the order
page.
To Learn More . . .
Want to sharpen your knowledge and skills on parasitic draw? Visit Online University, and check out skill module
ELS60 - Key-off Draw Testing.
02-06-2009, 06:48 PM
#59
damn - looks like some tough detective work is on order
they need to come up with some better diagnostics in the system
they need to come up with some better diagnostics in the system
02-07-2009, 08:32 PM
#61
Senior Moderator
02-08-2009, 04:37 PM
#63
Senior Moderator
And it's a good thing I've got Acuracare for after the factory warranty ends. I've got 35k miles + some change.
02-09-2009, 01:43 PM
#64
Senior Moderator
Hopefully the last update
They finally checked the trunk switch (remember: my trunk was popping open randomly at the beginning of this!). When they unplugged it, all the excess draws went away.
I should have my car back tomorrow. I got a new HFL module and door handle out of the experience as well, so I have absolutely no complaints.
Can't wait! I need to get out of that TL, the new car smell makes me tempted to make a terrible financial decision--trading the RL with its low resale value would be a major FAIL.
I should have my car back tomorrow. I got a new HFL module and door handle out of the experience as well, so I have absolutely no complaints.
Can't wait! I need to get out of that TL, the new car smell makes me tempted to make a terrible financial decision--trading the RL with its low resale value would be a major FAIL.
02-09-2009, 01:59 PM
#65
They finally checked the trunk switch (remember: my trunk was popping open randomly at the beginning of this!). When they unplugged it, all the excess draws went away.
I should have my car back tomorrow. I got a new HFL module and door handle out of the experience as well, so I have absolutely no complaints.
Can't wait! I need to get out of that TL, the new car smell makes me tempted to make a terrible financial decision--trading the RL with its low resale value would be a major FAIL.
I should have my car back tomorrow. I got a new HFL module and door handle out of the experience as well, so I have absolutely no complaints.
Can't wait! I need to get out of that TL, the new car smell makes me tempted to make a terrible financial decision--trading the RL with its low resale value would be a major FAIL.
. I would only consider it in in manual tranny and then only if it outperforms the RL by A LOT.Remember spring is around the corner soon it will be S2K weather
My first s2K mod is coming, TODA clutch
02-09-2009, 02:15 PM
#66
Senior Moderator
Yeah, I would sure as hell not be driving a TL if this had happened in March or April. I drove my S around the block in the "warm" weather yesterday to circulate the fluids. Aaaaaah......
Toda clutch FTW! Good purchase.
Toda clutch FTW! Good purchase.
02-09-2009, 02:17 PM
#67
glad they found the culprit
the trunk switch was a problem before with battery drain. remember all those dead RLs at the airport after using the door trunk release
anyone with battery issues should point their dealer to the trunk first
the trunk switch was a problem before with battery drain. remember all those dead RLs at the airport after using the door trunk release
anyone with battery issues should point their dealer to the trunk first
02-09-2009, 05:58 PM
#68
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It is amazing how these electronic gremlins suddenly pop up after two uneventful years! Makes me think twice whether I should buy an extended warranty soon. The 09 TL with AWD and Tech package is quite close to the RL in terms of performance, but probably lacks a bit in terms of quality of materials used (leather, interior trim ... etc). The TL beak only looks okay if you get the palladium silver color, which makes the protuberance less prominent.
Bob, next time when you get a loaner car, ask for the TL AWD-Tech model, and let us know of your driving experience and comparision. Thanks.
Bob, next time when you get a loaner car, ask for the TL AWD-Tech model, and let us know of your driving experience and comparision. Thanks.
02-12-2009, 10:01 AM
#69
Senior Moderator
^^^
I asked, and they said they didn't have any SH-AWDs in their loaner pool.
Understandable, though.
I got my car back on Tuesday night and so far, so good. It smells like guys wearing motor oil sat in the seats, though, , (which they did for a week) so I guess it's time for an interior detailing ASAP. They even fixed my loose trunk light....been loose forever...just forgot to mention it at oil changes....
I asked, and they said they didn't have any SH-AWDs in their loaner pool.
Understandable, though.I got my car back on Tuesday night and so far, so good.
It smells like guys wearing motor oil sat in the seats, though, , (which they did for a week) so I guess it's time for an interior detailing ASAP. They even fixed my loose trunk light....been loose forever...just forgot to mention it at oil changes....
04-05-2009, 09:57 AM
#70
Burning Brakes
I found this by looking through our Acura ServiceNews bulletins. I wonder if this is the answer, rather than replacing electronic components one at a time. I also understand the sleep mode now. I'll bring this up with the service guys on Monday. I'm sure they've thought about B-CAN already but it can't hurt to mention it, I guess.
04-05-2009, 01:17 PM
#71
Burning Brakes
I'm still waiting for word from the dealer.
The good news is, they put me in a nice blue 2009 TL (base) loaner. No matter what you think of the exterior, it is an awesome drive for a FWD car. WOWIE WOW! Honda engineers DEFINITELY didn't let us down in the driving dynamics department. Tight steering (the electronic steering is practically telepathic), excellent road feel, minimal torque steer, nice growly J35 sound. VERY impressive. The interior is pretty good, too. It has a nice, big trunk, bigger than the RL to the eye. Too bad I don't like the nose, still.
The good news is, they put me in a nice blue 2009 TL (base) loaner. No matter what you think of the exterior, it is an awesome drive for a FWD car. WOWIE WOW! Honda engineers DEFINITELY didn't let us down in the driving dynamics department. Tight steering (the electronic steering is practically telepathic), excellent road feel, minimal torque steer, nice growly J35 sound. VERY impressive. The interior is pretty good, too. It has a nice, big trunk, bigger than the RL to the eye. Too bad I don't like the nose, still.
04-05-2009, 02:33 PM
#72
Burning Brakes
04-05-2009, 04:51 PM
#73
Senior Moderator
04-06-2009, 12:38 PM
#74
Burning Brakes
I'm updating this old thread, again, because I found it useful, myself.
My '06 came back from the repair shop
looking beautiful but requiring a jumpstart to fire. I figured the shop left the radio on or door open or failed to turn off the car. Whatever. I took it home, put it on the trickle charger and it took a full charge by the time I got home from recreational harp seal baby bashing.
The car started fine, we drove to dinner and... it gave the fluttering lights of death upon an attempted restart, followed by the Nav code screen and deaditude. I had AAA jump it, drove it home and put it on the charger, then came online to read (this thread among others) what I could about batteries and such.
This morning, although top charged last night, the car wouldn't start and that death flutter is just scary stuff. This kind of failure suggests a bad cell(s), which can occur just by chance (unlikely) or if one runs the battery down to "Dead" and reverses one or more cell. After a charge and some breakfast, I drove it straight to the dealer, shut it off and told them I had a bad battery, even though the window showed blue/okay.
They slapped a checker on it, it printed out a "bad battery" report and then they had to jump it in order to start it up and move it.
Epilogue: new battery, 100% warranty coverage, had to reprogram my seat/mirror/steering wheel (but not radio or HFL) and code-in the Nav again. I trust this is final resolution, and will demonstrate my trust by driving the car 600 miles into the desert tomorrow morning.
My service advisor noted to me that the RL and several other Acuras will kill a battery if the door is left open, the car is left in accessory, or one uses the HFL after shutting down (3 things I do, regularly) because the CPU for the car sucks loads of power when anything is turned on.
My '06 came back from the repair shop
looking beautiful but requiring a jumpstart to fire. I figured the shop left the radio on or door open or failed to turn off the car. Whatever. I took it home, put it on the trickle charger and it took a full charge by the time I got home from recreational harp seal baby bashing. The car started fine, we drove to dinner and... it gave the fluttering lights of death upon an attempted restart, followed by the Nav code screen and deaditude. I had AAA jump it, drove it home and put it on the charger, then came online to read (this thread among others) what I could about batteries and such.
This morning, although top charged last night, the car wouldn't start and that death flutter is just scary stuff. This kind of failure suggests a bad cell(s), which can occur just by chance (unlikely) or if one runs the battery down to "Dead" and reverses one or more cell. After a charge and some breakfast, I drove it straight to the dealer, shut it off and told them I had a bad battery, even though the window showed blue/okay.
They slapped a checker on it, it printed out a "bad battery" report and then they had to jump it in order to start it up and move it.
Epilogue: new battery, 100% warranty coverage, had to reprogram my seat/mirror/steering wheel (but not radio or HFL) and code-in the Nav again. I trust this is final resolution, and will demonstrate my trust by driving the car 600 miles into the desert tomorrow morning.
My service advisor noted to me that the RL and several other Acuras will kill a battery if the door is left open, the car is left in accessory, or one uses the HFL after shutting down (3 things I do, regularly) because the CPU for the car sucks loads of power when anything is turned on.
04-08-2009, 09:33 PM
#75
Intermediate
Had almost the same problem as others reported about 2 months ago; after my wife didn't drive the car for 5 days it was completely dead. Also, the trunk button button was not working after jumping (the key fob release would work). Had Acura Care arrange to jump it and when I took it into the dealer they replaced the battery and the some type of trunk interface unit (current drain from the trunk release button on the trunk) under warranty. All settings were saved and no problems since. Since the trunk release unit took a day to get they gave us a loaner for two days.
07-18-2009, 02:08 PM
#77
Torch & Pitchfork Posse
In Bob's case it was related to the trunk release button, which had been acting up on him prior to the battery draw issue.
There have not been too many cases, but from what I have read, parasitic draw problems have been linked to faulty door handle lock touch sensors, the trunk release button or perhaps an issue with the Bluetooth HFL module not releasing from a paired cellphone even after the ignition was off but the phone was in Bluetooth range (say, in your garage).
Some 05 models also had issues as the ignition off was not specific enough and some drivers (or valets) left the ignition in Accessory position, causing a typical battery drain.
oh, and c141....was that you who landed at TIA tthe other day unexpectedly??? :o
There have not been too many cases, but from what I have read, parasitic draw problems have been linked to faulty door handle lock touch sensors, the trunk release button or perhaps an issue with the Bluetooth HFL module not releasing from a paired cellphone even after the ignition was off but the phone was in Bluetooth range (say, in your garage).
Some 05 models also had issues as the ignition off was not specific enough and some drivers (or valets) left the ignition in Accessory position, causing a typical battery drain.
oh, and c141....was that you who landed at TIA tthe other day unexpectedly??? :o
Last edited by TampaRLX-SH; 07-18-2009 at 02:11 PM.
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