Have weird issue. Car started fine for few min.. Idle was at around 1300.. coming down.
And then rpm got into this loop of non stop 1100rpm -2300rpm jumps.

I tried doing idle relearn. No air leaks . New airbox to throttle body rubber hose..
Sounds as if idle air control valve is unplugged. But it's plugged in..
Any steps missing in j37 2010+ install?
Slapped on intake manifold, new gaskets.
Throttlr body...just can't see what could be wrong.

Does coolant lines to throttle body matter? Is there throttle body coolant in and coolant outs? Or it does not matter

 

coolant lines to the throttle body are there to cool the throttle body. only it has the opposite effect, as the engine is hot and that coolant is circulating...
blah blah blah, NO the coolant lines will not matter


on the 3G TL side, we've had this "surge" when replacing the intake manifold and throttle body with the J37 stuff
nothing really gets rid of it, maybe a tune...but you dont have that luxury.


https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...roblem-834102/

http://www.j32a.com/index.php?action...sa=topics;u=30

 

I would return it back to stock.
as you probably didnt gain too MUCH, maybe 3-5HP...but at the expense of surging

not worth it too me...and thus why I still have stock 3.2l throttle body and 3.2l intake manifold

 

Maybe the IM or TB is damaged?

I just did this swap a few weeks ago with a IM/TB off of a 09' RL & haven't had a single issue. Idles at like 800 every time, even reused the stock gaskets

 

Will investigate. Intake manifold and runners.
So when I slapped everything on and started the car without unplugging battery. Car drove fine. Just rpm were at 900. So I unplugged battery and tried to do idle relearn. That's when these surges began.

Teh CL. Did u install 2009 rl intake manifold on acura rl? Or acura CL?

 

Yea it was on my RL.

If anything, could you have potentially over torqued the manifold or top cover bolts? Did you happen to touch the TB butterfly at all?

I started off by unplugging the battery, when I was done I reconnected it and let the car run for 5 minutes or so to adjust. Went for a drive and haven't had a single issue since.

Does the MDX manifold have a bung for the IAT sensor? I'm assuming it's like the J37A2 (09' RL) and doesn't. If not, what did you do with the IAT sensor?

 

I drilled a hole. Glued some Teflon plastic piece with threads for intake air temperature sensor. It's pretty solidly attached. Same position..

One secret I did not tell.. this mod is done one honda odyssey 2009)) but with acura rl 2005 cylinder heads.
It's all same shit.same engine . Decided to ask here. Where else can I consult? Odyssey owners only replace batteries and windshield wipers. If u know of anyone who did odyssey 2005-10 mods That would be good.

 

at Odyssey owners..

Snap some pics of that IAT. As for it being in an Odyssey, like you said it's all the same. I'd swap back to the stock setup to see if it goes away.

 

So if I start the car after battery disconnect.
Engine idles at 1400rpm. Any light gas pedal touch. . Or if u move steering wheel ( I think it's progra med to bump engine rpm when u move steering wheel at idle, these cars had hard steering At idle issue).
Then car goes into this 1100-2300 rpm loop. Runs big rich. Burned a lot of gas in a day

Here are iat pics. Teflon washer from home depot

 

Maybe it's leaking from where you drilled that hole?

 

I might be able to temporarily plug in Original throttle body.. will be able to hold It in place even though bolt pattern is different. Just to see if its a intake leak that's causing these surges.

 

I doubt. These kind of surges if due to air leak. Need to be huge. Like half of intake missing or something like that. Tiny leaks aren't that noticeable

 

Interesting video.. basically air leaks are important to avoid. Hm.. the gist of the video is that idle surging is hondas way to drop idle rpm. Computer shuts off turns on injectors all the time. If there is a big air leak.. or big throttle body.. computer will try in desperation to turn off injectors.

I think those coolant lines also control some valve inside the throttle body.. WilL try swapping see what happens.

This is the education video for enlightenment
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hB44oejFsL4

 

check your IACV

 

Coolant lines on the throttle body are there to heat the throttle body for cold climates to eliminate throttle stick ! Experienced this on a -40 day before lol

We don't have a IACV as its a drive by wire car.

You have a air leak and the ecu is seeing Zero TPS movement and is resetting the idle speed and the engine is getting more air from the leak and this will happen over and over.

Use brake clean or propane around all gaskets and you will hear a flocculation in idle speed and sound. You could get someone or a piece of wood to keep the rpm at 1000 rpm and do this and find the rough area you r leak is.

 

thanks for this input. I looked everywhere to find aleak.. none. Runners not cracked. I tightrn them to around 180 in lbs. Or 11ft lbs. Just put old stuff back.. and things are normal again. I think it's too much for Honda Odyssey computer to adjust to. Have RL 2005 cylinder heads (which is basically slightly bigger exhaust cams than Original odyssey. I think it's only mid cam That is a tiny bit bigger on RL) drove 100 miles with no changes in engine behavior. Also have pre cat deletes. Stainless steel exhaust


Anyway mdx intake, thottle body , new gasket, new airbox pipe are for sale. 250$. Will post in for sale section. Unless there Is something Else To try..

 

Reusing the old gaskets may have been the issue. Get ahold of a scan tool that can read your long term fuel trims. They should be close to zero. Anything beyond about -8 indicates a vacuum leak somewhere and if you see that, those old heat-soaked gaskets would be the first thing I would suspect as long as all your vacuum lines are attached properly.

 

Actually to clarify, negative LTFTs indicate a vacuum leak. Beyond -8 they'll usually throw a CEL.