Disconnecting the battery: Everything that can go wrong

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Old May 3, 2012 | 11:36 PM
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Disconnecting the battery: Everything that can go wrong

I’m thinking about whether to remove the battery, rather than remove the bumper cover (pick your poison!), in order to change my left low beam HID bulb.

In 2009, the moderator csmeanace wrote on this board:

“If you... disconnect the battery for 15 minutes... you will need to do the idle relearn procedure, window switch initialization, sunroof initialization, and you lose your memory seats and other settings.

I know I’d need to have my radio code and navi code. I'm guessing the "idle relearn" will do itself to some extent over subsequent driving. But what are the “window switch initialization” and “sunroof initialization”?
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:03 AM
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Good question! I'd like to know as I'm installing j pipe pcd and pulley next week...
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:16 AM
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no need to remove battery to change that bulb as I recall
that said, only radio/nav codes are needed after battery removed
make sure you stuff rags below to catch mistakes when changing bulb
it is a blind procedure
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:49 AM
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Edit on bulb change after memory recall
Yes, need to remove battery
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Old May 4, 2012 | 07:20 AM
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Once you remove the tie down from the battery, it slides about 4 inches towards the engine. This usually is enough room to get your hand in there. (That gives you more room than the passenger side anyway.)

If you do have to remove the battery, place jumpers on the terminals and connect the other ends to another battery. Another car is typically the easiest. Just make sure both cars are off and your headlights are off to save strain on the other car.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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I've honestly never thought through a battery swap so much...

But you can use jumper leads or a jump box (yes a box you jump on 007).

Although it can be a PIA at the end of the day its good for the car to have a nice reset.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by oo7spy
Once you remove the tie down from the battery, it slides about 4 inches towards the engine. This usually is enough room to get your hand in there. (That gives you more room than the passenger side anyway.)

If you do have to remove the battery, place jumpers on the terminals and connect the other ends to another battery. Another car is typically the easiest. Just make sure both cars are off and your headlights are off to save strain on the other car.
personally, I'd rather have the battery disconnected when working on high voltage HIDs
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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Thanks, guys. That's helpful info.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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Meh. The harness is well insulated. It's not like there are high voltage terminals in very accessible locations. I can understand the concern, but personally feel it is less risky than driving on the interstate.

To each his own though.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:57 PM
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^^^

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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by oo7spy
Meh. The harness is well insulated. It's not like there are high voltage terminals in very accessible locations. I can understand the concern, but personally feel it is less risky than driving on the interstate.

To each his own though.
Well there is one big warning sign on the back of the plastic piece that you take off to get to the bulb!
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Old May 4, 2012 | 05:30 PM
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Meh.

I think we can agree it is not a good idea to change the bulb with the low beams turned on.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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^^^

.....risk taker....
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Old May 4, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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As an FYI..when you open your glovebox, the Navi & Radio codes should be listed on a label that is found on the inside left side of the lid. They are a 5 digit alphanumeric code. You will lose the other car settings but codes are the easiest setting to replace..IMHO.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mayflowerman
As an FYI..when you open your glovebox, the Navi & Radio codes should be listed on a label that is found on the inside left side of the lid. They are a 5 digit alphanumeric code. You will lose the other car settings but codes are the easiest setting to replace..IMHO.
those stickers are only there if previous owner put them there.

what other settings do you lose? I didn't lose any others and battery was disconnected over 24 hours
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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[QUOTE=mayflowerman;13754676]As an FYI..when you open your glovebox, the Navi & Radio codes should be listed on a label that is found on the inside left side of the lid. They are a 5 digit alphanumeric code. You will lose the other car settings but codes are the easiest setting to replace..IMHO.[/QUOTE

Is there just 1 code that restores both radio and nav ? Are there really any alpha digits ? if so, how do you enter them with the 6 preset buttons ?

I've got a code in the engine fuse box lid but I remember it being a long string, way more than 5 characters...

no glove box sticker anywhere on my 2nd hand RL
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:42 PM
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5 digit numeral code is for the radio.
4 digit numeral code is for the nav.

A prolonged battery disconnect can cause a need for the idle relearn, window relearn, sunroof relearn, memory seat reset, and telescoping reset.

Reading up on the wood steering wheel install, I found Bob's suggestion for the PCM idle relearn.
Originally Posted by Nueronbob
Rev engine to 3000 rpm until radiator fan comes on, then let idle for ten minutes ("PCM idle learn" procedure).
The windows and sun roof are reset by holding the buttons all the way down for 5 seconds after they have reached full open. Then holding them for 5 seconds again after they have reached full close. I am unaware of how to reset the seat memory or telescoping column.

These may or may not all happen after a prolonged disconnect, but I think the PCM idle should be done just for thoroughness. The other things will be obvious if they need resetting.

EDIT: Never mind. I found the steering colum reset procedure which I believe also resets the memory seats.
Originally Posted by RL Service Manual, Steering.pdf
STEERING COLUMN POSITION MEMORIZATION

To reset the system when the auto tilt and telescopic feature is turned on ('05 model)
1. Push the ignition switch for at least 2 seconds and release it, or insert the built-in key into the ignition
switch, and remove it.
2. The steering wheel automatically moves fully in and up to let you know the system is reset.
If steering wheel does not move automatically, go to step 3.
3. Move the steering wheel to the highest position and hold that position by pushing and holding the
adjustment button for at least 2 seconds.
4. Then, move the steering wheel to the most inward position, and hold that position by pushing and
holding the adjustment button for at least 2 seconds.

To reset the system when the auto tilt and telescopic feature is turned off ('05 model)
1. Move the steering wheel to the highest position and hold that position by pushing and holding the
adjustment button for at least 2 seconds.
2. Then, move the steering wheel to the most inward position, and hold that position by pushing and
holding the adjustment button for at least 2 seconds.
To reset the system

('06-08 models)
1. Push the ignition switch for at least 2 seconds and release it, or insert the built-in key into the ignition
switch, and remove it.
2. The steering wheel automatically moves fully in and up to let you know the system is reset.

Last edited by oo7spy; May 4, 2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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I've changed my battery twice myself as well as disconnected for HID replacement
Did not experience any of those issues
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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Correct window reset:
Originally Posted by RL Service Manual, Power Windows.pdf
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Move the window all the way down by using the window DOWN switch.
3. Open the driver's door.
4. Do the following 3 times before going to step 5:
-Turn the ignition switch OFF.
-Push and hold the window DOWN switch.
-Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
-Release the window DOWN switch.
5. Confirm that AUTO UP no longer works. If AUTO UP still works, go back to step 1.
6. Move the window ail the way down using the window DOWN switch.
7. Pull up and hold the window UP switch until the window is all the way up, then continue to hold the
switch for 1 second.
8. Confirm that the power window control unit is reset by using the window AUTO UP and AUTO
DOWN function.
Moonroof:
Originally Posted by RL Service Manual, Power Moonroof.pdf
To reset the moonroof control unit, do these steps.
1. Close all doors and trunk.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Press and hold the tilt switch, and turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Release the tilt switch, and turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 four times.
6. Press and hold the moonroof open switch until 3 seconds after the moonroof is fully opened.
7. Press and hold the moonroof close switch until 3 seconds after the moonroof is fully closed (tilted).
8. Confirm that the moonroof control unit is reset by using the moonroof AUTO OPEN and AUTO
CLOSE function.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by getakey
those stickers are only there if previous owner put them there.
I checked the Acura Owners site under the "Retrieve and Unlock codes" link and it does say that the dealer may have placed a label on a sticker inside the glove box. I'm glad mine did as it's easy to retrieve.

As a correction, the codes are all numeric. I had to enter it in a few weeks ago after AAA jumped my car in the airport parking lot. I'm probably due for a new battery.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mayflowerman
I checked the Acura Owners site under the "Retrieve and Unlock codes" link and it does say that the dealer may have placed a label on a sticker inside the glove box. I'm glad mine did as it's easy to retrieve.

As a correction, the codes are all numeric. I had to enter it in a few weeks ago after AAA jumped my car in the airport parking lot. I'm probably due for a new battery.
Jumped car in Airport Parking lot - there was a very old problem that if you used the inside trunk release button and then left the car parked for several days the battery would drain. I believe there was a software update to fix this, but don't remember.
That said, rarely get more than 3 years on battery in RL
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Old May 5, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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Heavy's confirmation that I can use jumper leads or a jump box is the best news I've heard all day.

The other alternatives sound like such a PITA, dropping the bumper doesn't sound a bit tougher by comparison.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by oo7spy
Once you remove the tie down from the battery, it slides about 4 inches towards the engine. This usually is enough room to get your hand in there. (That gives you more room than the passenger side anyway.)

If you do have to remove the battery, place jumpers on the terminals and connect the other ends to another battery. Another car is typically the easiest. Just make sure both cars are off and your headlights are off to save strain on the other car.



In any case, I just disconnected my battery for long enough to replace the steering wheel, ~ 1 hour. All you will really lose are your seat memory and radio presets. Windows and sunroof were fine as was the telescoping steering column. The car also kept all of the driver settings such as lock, lights, etc. If you leave your seat in the preset position, you will only have to move the steering wheel to get back to the preset. The other preset will be lost.

As for the PCM idle relearn, you have to run your car anyway to let the nav reset and find the satellite. I used this time to do the idle relearn procedure.

Still, I honestly believe you can remove the bulb by simply sliding the battery over.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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LoL
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Old May 6, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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007 - you actually lost the radio presets?
weird
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Old May 6, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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I suppose I just assumed that. I did not lose the homelink preset so maybe not. I only use AUX and CD anyway.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 07:00 AM
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I have only lost presets, radio and Navi codes when a battery was drained dead. If the battery has juice and simply disconnected for a period, the memory is not lost. I do not know how long an interval you have before losing the memory, but obviously enough for a typical battery swap.

The ECU must have some battery backup / memory retention capability that is lost when the main battery is completely drained. In fact I would expect an electronics served battery backup should be designed into these newer cars with all the electronic intelligence in order to protect customized and user selected features. It would / should support the memory when the inevitable main battery fails.

Heck, my lawn irrigation controller even has a backup battery to save the programmed memory when the power fails.

*** Greetings from Rotterdam ***
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Old May 7, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Some memory is persistent when power is off. For example ROM and EPROM versus RAM.
I would think the ECU uses EPROM
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Old May 7, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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.... ....
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Old May 8, 2012 | 05:22 AM
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He actually beat me to it. My guess was RAM.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 07:39 AM
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I would love to see personal setting and media portable through an interface device. I could image the fob also containing USB memory to save user (driver) data and that data could be easily restored to the car should there be a battery drain resulting in memory loss. Just plug in the fob / usb and it copies back all the data, settings, music etc.

Further via an online interface (MyAcura.com?) the user (driver) could manage details, such as music, Navi Address Book, Destinations, radio presets, personal settings, etc. just by plugging in the fob / USB into the PC. It would be easier to add / remove / edit such details online with a application via a PC rather than the NAVI / telematics interfaces currently in the car. Just think how much easier it would be seeing the MID setting in an online application to select and set your profile vs. drilling through the MID menus. When returning to the car, plug in the fob / USB and all that data is transferred / updated to the car's memory.

Once the data is there, the car works very well using it.

***Greetings from Amsterdam***
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Old May 8, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Send Acura a letter and see if they listen.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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On a postcard from Amsterdam.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by oo7spy
Send Acura a letter and see if they listen.
I know you will enjoy this...but....

Actually the JDM LEGEND has something very close already. They have a smart card which inserts in the vacant slot just the the left of the steering wheel (on our left hand models). That smart card has capabilities to no only manage personal settings, but identify parking garages, detect traffic announcements and Homelink like features. The JDM LEGENDs do not have smart fobs / keyless ignition, but instead a driver's smart card.

Now for the online interface....I could design it if Acura wants to pay my rates.

***Greetings from Amsterdam***

Last edited by TampaRLX-SH; May 8, 2012 at 02:28 PM.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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^This would help those of us who are in the early stages of...wait, what is this thread about?
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Old May 8, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Marco
^This would help those of us who are in the early stages of...wait, what is this thread about?

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Old May 8, 2012 | 03:31 PM
  #37  
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Sorry. I will refrain form contributions that are not specific to the post. I did think alternative solutions to losing battery power / connectivity would be pertinent.

On the other hand, this forum might be a good place to discuss a modified J Series engine in an Odyssey.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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Pay Marco no attention he tripped out of car talk and landed here. LoL
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Old May 8, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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I think Marco was referring to a Sr Moment rather than criticizing your post
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