Creaking B-Pillar
#1
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Creaking B-Pillar
As my 2006 RL got to 9000 miles, noises started emanating from the drivers side B-Pillar. By 10,000 miles the noise was constant and quite annoying. Finally took it to the dealership where the tech found metal on metal contact and movement around a spot weld in the area. His solution was to separate the two metal pieces so body flexing in the area would no longer cause noise. Problem solved.
This probably sounds familiar to some of you. I believe it was NavyDoc who had the same issue and resolved it in a similar way (if memory serves me correctly).
Anyway, if you have a rattle/creaking sound coming from the B-pillar area, this may be your solution.
Bob
This probably sounds familiar to some of you. I believe it was NavyDoc who had the same issue and resolved it in a similar way (if memory serves me correctly).
Anyway, if you have a rattle/creaking sound coming from the B-pillar area, this may be your solution.
Bob
#2
Originally Posted by Bob In Miami
As my 2006 RL got to 9000 miles, noises started emanating from the drivers side B-Pillar. By 10,000 miles the noise was constant and quite annoying. Finally took it to the dealership where the tech found metal on metal contact and movement around a spot weld in the area. His solution was to separate the two metal pieces so body flexing in the area would no longer cause noise. Problem solved.
This probably sounds familiar to some of you. I believe it was NavyDoc who had the same issue and resolved it in a similar way (if memory serves me correctly).
Anyway, if you have a rattle/creaking sound coming from the B-pillar area, this may be your solution.
Bob
This probably sounds familiar to some of you. I believe it was NavyDoc who had the same issue and resolved it in a similar way (if memory serves me correctly).
Anyway, if you have a rattle/creaking sound coming from the B-pillar area, this may be your solution.
Bob
Hey Bob.... yup, had the same problem. It's kept mine 'pretty quiet'... I occationally have to adjust the 'shim' I put in there...and it will stay quiet for a while longer. I think if it does it again.. I may take it down to a local body shop here ...and have them do a 'spot weld' on it... see if they can shut it up.
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Hi NavyDoc,
What the tech did on my car was to separate the area where you have the shim, that way the two pieces of metal can not touch during times of chasis flex. Perhaps some sort of wedge can be used to separate the metal on your car also. Once separated the tech also put sound deadening matterial between the metal. Have only driven the car 5 miles, but the difference was immediately noticeable.
Bob
What the tech did on my car was to separate the area where you have the shim, that way the two pieces of metal can not touch during times of chasis flex. Perhaps some sort of wedge can be used to separate the metal on your car also. Once separated the tech also put sound deadening matterial between the metal. Have only driven the car 5 miles, but the difference was immediately noticeable.
Bob
#4
Originally Posted by Bob In Miami
Hi NavyDoc,
What the tech did on my car was to separate the area where you have the shim, that way the two pieces of metal can not touch during times of chasis flex. Perhaps some sort of wedge can be used to separate the metal on your car also. Once separated the tech also put sound deadening matterial between the metal. Have only driven the car 5 miles, but the difference was immediately noticeable.
Bob
What the tech did on my car was to separate the area where you have the shim, that way the two pieces of metal can not touch during times of chasis flex. Perhaps some sort of wedge can be used to separate the metal on your car also. Once separated the tech also put sound deadening matterial between the metal. Have only driven the car 5 miles, but the difference was immediately noticeable.
Bob
That's great that they found it... my tech's haven't been as helpful in figuring my phantom noises out.
#5
Burning Brakes
What does (did) this creaking sound like? I just started hearing a little "tick" sound from the B-pillar area and am wondering if this might be an early symptom.
Rob144
Rob144
#7
Originally Posted by sotiri
yeah, thats how it starts.
it only gets worse, and the dealers are clueless.
it only gets worse, and the dealers are clueless.
I had been fighting mine for over a year... the shim seems to only fix the problem temporarily. On my way down to Atlanta yesterday to trade it in on an 06 GS... it was as loud as I've ever heard it (I think the car was pissed I was getting rid of it)... anyway. If I had kept it, my next step was going to be to take it to a local body shop, and have them completely fuse that peice, instead of the spot welding. I know my dealer couldn't do that, so I figured I would just eat the cost to give me peace of mind. Then it just pissed me off that on a 50K car I have to have pieces of the frame fused.... anyway, no such creak in my GS now... ahhhhhhhhh.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Sorry to hear you're leaving the fold. I understand not wanting to deal with the frustration.
Now then, where did you use your shim (or Bob: where did the dealer the bit of prying)? A, B, C, or D?
I tried the test drive with a screwdriver jammed in A, B, and D, but it didn't make a difference.
Rob144
Now then, where did you use your shim (or Bob: where did the dealer the bit of prying)? A, B, C, or D?
I tried the test drive with a screwdriver jammed in A, B, and D, but it didn't make a difference.
Rob144
#9
Originally Posted by Rob144
Sorry to hear you're leaving the fold. I understand not wanting to deal with the frustration.
Now then, where did you use your shim (or Bob: where did the dealer the bit of prying)? A, B, C, or D?
I tried the test drive with a screwdriver jammed in A, B, and D, but it didn't make a difference.
Rob144
Now then, where did you use your shim (or Bob: where did the dealer the bit of prying)? A, B, C, or D?
I tried the test drive with a screwdriver jammed in A, B, and D, but it didn't make a difference.
Rob144
That picture's awesome! I jammed mine in "A" to stop the creak. But like I said... it's only temporary. It took two thin pieces of metal.. (each about the width and thickness of a stick of chewing gum)...with some felt in between. When the creak would come back... I would just tap them in a little deeper.
#10
Originally Posted by NavyDoc333
That picture's awesome! I jammed mine in "A" to stop the creak. But like I said... it's only temporary. It took two thin pieces of metal.. (each about the width and thickness of a stick of chewing gum)...with some felt in between. When the creak would come back... I would just tap them in a little deeper.
I also drilled a hole in B...and put a screw in there... just to see if it would 'cinch it down' and help. It didn't.
#11
Torch & Pitchfork Posse
You guys took off the trim panels yourselves?
I am not so brave to cure those types of creaks. Of course I just cursed myself a I have not developed that creak...yet!
I would use my universal fixer....duct tape.
I am not so brave to cure those types of creaks. Of course I just cursed myself a I have not developed that creak...yet!
I would use my universal fixer....duct tape.
#12
the panels come out easy. they are just clips that hold them in and the molding is even easier.
I was going to try this next. Silicone spray, and if that didnt help, then wd40.
I too am just about at my wits end with this creaking.
the dealer put the car on a rack and tried to pull the frame to see if that would solve it. made it worse actually.
If I dont get rid of the creaking this year, I am going to get rid of this car (reluctantly) and probably pick up an lex, or an MB .
Pity, such a good car, with flaws that the dealers cant remedy, let alone coming out from what is the flagship car of Acura.
I was going to try this next. Silicone spray, and if that didnt help, then wd40.
I too am just about at my wits end with this creaking.
the dealer put the car on a rack and tried to pull the frame to see if that would solve it. made it worse actually.
If I dont get rid of the creaking this year, I am going to get rid of this car (reluctantly) and probably pick up an lex, or an MB .
Pity, such a good car, with flaws that the dealers cant remedy, let alone coming out from what is the flagship car of Acura.
#13
Burning Brakes
There are a lot of contact points where some of the metal meets in layers. The "B" zone already has a weld. I did a little prying in the "A" zone under the weather stripping, and tucked some fabric into the "D" zone as well. I also spritzed some silicon spray into the area and put everything back together.
I seemed a little better on my quick run to the market.
I really comes apart rather easily, and goes back together easily, too. A red plastic clip stayed in the hole above "B", which I popped out and placed back into the trim piece. The thing to be careful of is not to let anything fall down!
Rob144
I seemed a little better on my quick run to the market.
I really comes apart rather easily, and goes back together easily, too. A red plastic clip stayed in the hole above "B", which I popped out and placed back into the trim piece. The thing to be careful of is not to let anything fall down!
Rob144
#14
Originally Posted by sotiri
the panels come out easy. they are just clips that hold them in and the molding is even easier.
I was going to try this next. Silicone spray, and if that didnt help, then wd40.
I too am just about at my wits end with this creaking.
the dealer put the car on a rack and tried to pull the frame to see if that would solve it. made it worse actually.
If I dont get rid of the creaking this year, I am going to get rid of this car (reluctantly) and probably pick up an lex, or an MB .
Pity, such a good car, with flaws that the dealers cant remedy, let alone coming out from what is the flagship car of Acura.
I was going to try this next. Silicone spray, and if that didnt help, then wd40.
I too am just about at my wits end with this creaking.
the dealer put the car on a rack and tried to pull the frame to see if that would solve it. made it worse actually.
If I dont get rid of the creaking this year, I am going to get rid of this car (reluctantly) and probably pick up an lex, or an MB .
Pity, such a good car, with flaws that the dealers cant remedy, let alone coming out from what is the flagship car of Acura.
If that's the only reason you'd trade it in... I'd really suggest taking it into a body shop you trust and having them weld the S**T out of it! It would probably cost you $100-200.
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Rob144,
The dealer tec did not tell me the exact location, he just described the area you photographed. He said he pried the area apart and then filled it with sound deadening matterial. He told me it took him three hours to get it quieted down. The result has been excellent, however I occasionally still hear it, but it is 95% better and have not noticed it in the past week.
NavyDoc....would you mind telling us what you got for your RL when you sold/traded it?
Bob
The dealer tec did not tell me the exact location, he just described the area you photographed. He said he pried the area apart and then filled it with sound deadening matterial. He told me it took him three hours to get it quieted down. The result has been excellent, however I occasionally still hear it, but it is 95% better and have not noticed it in the past week.
NavyDoc....would you mind telling us what you got for your RL when you sold/traded it?
Bob
#16
Originally Posted by Bob In Miami
Rob144,
The dealer tec did not tell me the exact location, he just described the area you photographed. He said he pried the area apart and then filled it with sound deadening matterial. He told me it took him three hours to get it quieted down. The result has been excellent, however I occasionally still hear it, but it is 95% better and have not noticed it in the past week.
NavyDoc....would you mind telling us what you got for your RL when you sold/traded it?
Bob
The dealer tec did not tell me the exact location, he just described the area you photographed. He said he pried the area apart and then filled it with sound deadening matterial. He told me it took him three hours to get it quieted down. The result has been excellent, however I occasionally still hear it, but it is 95% better and have not noticed it in the past week.
NavyDoc....would you mind telling us what you got for your RL when you sold/traded it?
Bob
#17
Senior Moderator
16.5k miles so far and no creaking B-pillar (prays profusely to the car deities that it doesn't happen)....my car is quiet as a tomb except for that sunroof squeak, which can be easily fixed.
#19
Three Wheelin'
Interesting that this thread hasnt gotten more action since last fall. Has no one else but a handful of us had this problem? Presumably all the cars got the same 5 or 6 tack welds along the "B" pillar seams.
My '07 suffered from this same creaking, first on the passenger side, and then after about 20k miles it started on driver's side also. I finally got the car over to Acura to get it fixed. They had the car for two days and now I am really happy that the problem appears to be fixed. They called Acura's home offices in Torrance CA and were told to use a hammer and flat screw driver to form some creases in the metal somewhere in the areas shown on the photos earlier in this thread. I didnt take the panels back off tonight to see what they did, but as far as I'm concerned so long as the noise is gone, I dont even need to see.
My '07 suffered from this same creaking, first on the passenger side, and then after about 20k miles it started on driver's side also. I finally got the car over to Acura to get it fixed. They had the car for two days and now I am really happy that the problem appears to be fixed. They called Acura's home offices in Torrance CA and were told to use a hammer and flat screw driver to form some creases in the metal somewhere in the areas shown on the photos earlier in this thread. I didnt take the panels back off tonight to see what they did, but as far as I'm concerned so long as the noise is gone, I dont even need to see.
#20
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My '06 has this problem too. About time to address the issue - will attempt myself. I have some modelers felt I may force between the two pieces of metal. Do the trim panels requite a special tool to take off the panels?
#21
Three Wheelin'
The trim comes off without any tools. Its clipped on. first you have to remove the front and rear door sill trim, then pull off the rubber welting in the door openings front and rear of the center section. You will then be able to get a few fingers behind the trim panels. Pull the bottom half off first. Then go for the upper trim section. Pull it outwards starting near the seatbelt mount and in a downward direction away from the roof headliner.
You'll be able to get felt under section "B" in the photo but you'll find there isn't enough of a gap to stuff it into sections A, C or D. I suspect the creak comes from either section A or D, where at least 3 different metal panels are joined together with a single spot weld. that corner area right in the middle of the marked off section in D is the most likely culprit.
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#24
All I did was take hammer & chisel to the joint to open it up just enough to get rid of the rattle. Now I have to do the passenger side side, it just hasnt bugged me enough because its not right in my ear like the drivers side was.
#25
Burning Brakes
Interesting that this thread hasnt gotten more action since last fall. Has no one else but a handful of us had this problem? Presumably all the cars got the same 5 or 6 tack welds along the "B" pillar seams.
My '07 suffered from this same creaking, first on the passenger side, and then after about 20k miles it started on driver's side also. I finally got the car over to Acura to get it fixed. They had the car for two days and now I am really happy that the problem appears to be fixed. They called Acura's home offices in Torrance CA and were told to use a hammer and flat screw driver to form some creases in the metal somewhere in the areas shown on the photos earlier in this thread. I didnt take the panels back off tonight to see what they did, but as far as I'm concerned so long as the noise is gone, I dont even need to see.
My '07 suffered from this same creaking, first on the passenger side, and then after about 20k miles it started on driver's side also. I finally got the car over to Acura to get it fixed. They had the car for two days and now I am really happy that the problem appears to be fixed. They called Acura's home offices in Torrance CA and were told to use a hammer and flat screw driver to form some creases in the metal somewhere in the areas shown on the photos earlier in this thread. I didnt take the panels back off tonight to see what they did, but as far as I'm concerned so long as the noise is gone, I dont even need to see.
Rob
#26
All I did was hammer away lightly till I got the chisel tip up under where it mates. Start in area b & c, basically the front of the mating area. You just want to pry the mating area up slightly. Do it in small increments, then take for a drive and then see if it solves your problem. Wack away more if it doesnt.
#28
Burning Brakes
I removed the trim and took it for a drive to try to pinpoint the source -- you might have an easier go of it if the problem is more frequent. Good luck.
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