common oil leaks on rl
#1
common oil leaks on rl
what are the most common oil leaks on rl? trying to find where its coming from
i got oil on the edge of tranamission case bottom and around the oil drain plug and also aeound vtec solenoid area and oil filter
i know it could be the main seal but on b series it usually ended up being vc gasket or vtec solenoid or dizzy o ring leak
or cam seal leak allthe way down to oil pan.
i checked where i can see but maybe there are some hidden places where i dont know
i got oil on the edge of tranamission case bottom and around the oil drain plug and also aeound vtec solenoid area and oil filter
i know it could be the main seal but on b series it usually ended up being vc gasket or vtec solenoid or dizzy o ring leak
or cam seal leak allthe way down to oil pan.
i checked where i can see but maybe there are some hidden places where i dont know
#3
I just found a leak on my RL coming from the passenger side's main bearing cap SIDE BOLT is leaking. Apparently it's kind of common with Honda V-6's. Solution is to pull the bolt, put on some Honda-bond and let it cure for 24hours.
#5
Senior Moderator
Other J series cars have had VTEC solenoid leaks that were quite common. Could also be oil pump which is quite common as well. You should just clean it and see where YOUR actual leak is.
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#9
finally see the girdle bolts on the sides
the one closest to the oil filter is leaking
other ones are probably too
also the old and crusty valve cover rubber bolt seals were leaking too
possibly very tiny leak from rear main seal
can anyone explain how front head would be dark brown from oil deposits and rear head is nice and golden color like it supposed to be
the one closest to the oil filter is leaking
other ones are probably too
also the old and crusty valve cover rubber bolt seals were leaking too
possibly very tiny leak from rear main seal
can anyone explain how front head would be dark brown from oil deposits and rear head is nice and golden color like it supposed to be
#10
finally see the girdle bolts on the sides
the one closest to the oil filter is leaking
other ones are probably too
also the old and crusty valve cover rubber bolt seals were leaking too
possibly very tiny leak from rear main seal
can anyone explain how front head would be dark brown from oil deposits and rear head is nice and golden color like it supposed to be
the one closest to the oil filter is leaking
other ones are probably too
also the old and crusty valve cover rubber bolt seals were leaking too
possibly very tiny leak from rear main seal
can anyone explain how front head would be dark brown from oil deposits and rear head is nice and golden color like it supposed to be
#11
i would have to be driving through puddles of oil to pick up that much
in any case.
i think i got all the major leaks taken care of
both valve covers
the pcv valve on front VC
VC bolt rubber grommets were old and crusty.
front head cam seal leaked alot
rear crank main support bolt next to oil filter was leaking
th eonly thing that might be left is rear main seal i have to see how much its leaking if anything at all since others are all fixed
in any case.
i think i got all the major leaks taken care of
both valve covers
the pcv valve on front VC
VC bolt rubber grommets were old and crusty.
front head cam seal leaked alot
rear crank main support bolt next to oil filter was leaking
th eonly thing that might be left is rear main seal i have to see how much its leaking if anything at all since others are all fixed
#14
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Our cars have the same basic engine and when I put together my maintenance plan for the TL I decided to budget a bit extra for some major inevitable service items; the extra to be used for seal and gasket replacement. When the clutch was due for service, I had the rear main seal, the engine and transmission mounts, and the stabilizer bar end-links and bushings replaced; even though not all of those items were end of life. Why? Because while the car was apart for the clutch, those other items are MUCH easier/quicker/cheaper to swap out. As for the front of the engine, my timing belt will be due again in a couple of years, and when I do that service, I will also do the water pump, all tensioners and idlers, the front cam seals, the front main seal, the oil pump seal, and all cooling hoses. It is a fact of life for those of us who own older cars, MAINTENANCE is king; you simply cannot expect to buy an old car and drive it 100,000 miles with minimal maintenance. If that is your goal, then you need to buy new cars.
Last edited by horseshoez; 12-20-2019 at 09:35 AM.
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RL09 (12-20-2019)
#15
Fk no!TheyldstroyEvrthing
And that classic leak, that seems to be common, is above the oil pan, on the right side, and seems to be the oil pump 10 dollar gasket. Or something else inside of that bolt. One has to remove the exhaust, and a number of things to get to it.
Someone on here said once they sealed it with HondaBond. (I suppose there's your clue, honda has it's own branded silicon bond)
Is it recommended to use that bond, and better to let the oil sweat out?
Someone on here said once they sealed it with HondaBond. (I suppose there's your clue, honda has it's own branded silicon bond)
Is it recommended to use that bond, and better to let the oil sweat out?
#16
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And that classic leak, that seems to be common, is above the oil pan, on the right side, and seems to be the oil pump 10 dollar gasket. Or something else inside of that bolt. One has to remove the exhaust, and a number of things to get to it.
Someone on here said once they sealed it with HondaBond. (I suppose there's your clue, honda has it's own branded silicon bond)
Is it recommended to use that bond, and better to let the oil sweat out?
Someone on here said once they sealed it with HondaBond. (I suppose there's your clue, honda has it's own branded silicon bond)
Is it recommended to use that bond, and better to let the oil sweat out?
The following users liked this post:
RL09 (12-25-2019)
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