I have a 2006 RL, tried to start it this morning and when I turn the ignition knob t the car wouldn't start, I put the key in and all accessories came on with no problem turned the key and nothing. There was no response from the starter at all. The MID displayed check starting system.

Waited for few minutes and tried again and nothing.....

Got a hammer and tapped on the starter motor a couple of times and when I started this time it would start with no problems. Since morning I tried starting it a couple of times and there is no problem and seem to start with out any problem.

Same thing happened an year ago once and there were no problems till today. Took it to the dealer last time and as usual they are not able to reproduce it.

By the way new battery installed two weeks ago.

Have no idea whats going on.........

 

Bad starter solenoid.

 

Thanks rlerman. Do you have any idea if I can just replace the solenoid or do I have to replace the whole starter motor?

 

Possibly part #8, but I'm not too keen on starters.

OEM Acura RL 2007 STARTER MOTOR (MITSUBISHI) (1) parts

 

Thanks 007spy. Do you have any experience with used starters? I know my mileage may vary.

I found some used starters salvaged from low mileage RLs on ebay. I might go with those.
I found a seller who is giving 6months warranty on parts.

 

A denso reman starter is about $240. Check Amazon.

 

Rock auto it!

 

Thanks guys. My car is not showing any signs of starter problems, I didn't want to take a chance.
I ordered a remanufactured Denso starter from Amazon ad rlerman suggested.

I am going to change it this weekend.

 

I've had staring issues very intermittently, not dead, though. Cranks, but won't turnovers once every few weeks. So far, I've replaced relays and cleaned the ground down at the starter. WIaiting a few weeks to see if the problem continues. Starter replacement will be next. Doesn't look too difficult, but it's a little tight in there.

 

Problem with mine is that it just stays silent when I try to start it. No response from the starter except all the displays blink like they normally do before cranking the engine.
MID displays "Check Starting System" message.
its not difficult at all, I already took it out once and cleaned it thoroughly.
This happens every time the battery is disconnected.
It happened both the times I got it back from dealer after service
Last time I gave it to the dealer for window motor replacement they didn't tighten the battery contacts enough and this time I have it for timing belt service and again they did not tighten the battery contacts properly.
I see a pattern here but I am not confident to take a risk and let it go with out changing the starter, since it started after I tapped it with a hammer this time.

 

Reviving an old thread, but any luck Rlerman?

I noticed weak turn over couple days ago but last night, went to start car and I got nothing. Just check starting system. I cranked again and started right up. Tested battery afterwards since I didn't have a voltmeter on me and read 12.6v and 13.75v with car running. Battery should be ok since its only 2 years old at the most and changed alternator last year. Just earlier, it was a no crank no start again. Except this time, it didn't turn over until I got a jump. Before the jump, battery tested 12.4v. It was cold the couple times it didn't turn over so I don't know if its a battery or not now. I thought 12.4 was enough to turn over or am I wrong for our car? Alternator read 13.8v after the jump so it was still good.

If 12.4v is enough to turn over, I'll check the grounds and relays. Just wondering what you guys think the problem could be. I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I click the knob over.

 

Sounds like a weak battery to me especially if you heard slow turnovers.

 

My issue has been entirely resolved and it was related to how I started the car. When I was having issues, I would turn the knob all the way quickly and let it go quickly. I changed the way I start the car and it has not happened since. My starting procedure includes turning to acc position first, wAit a couple of seconds for the fuel pump to run (fuel gauge will rise), then finish starting it by turning rest of the way and holding it there for about a second.

I never got a check starting system message when I was having issues, just would crank, but not turn over the first try.

 

Gotcha. My situation is a little different but glad your car is working fine now. Quick question, where was the starter cut relay? The service manual and the owners manual I got is conflicting what they are saying.

Also, 007spy, I thought it was battery but it's only 1.5 years old and nothing dimmed when I tried to crank but that's really because there was no crank. I had battery issue previously and didn't seem like the same case. It is almost like when the shifter is in D and you try to start and get nothing. Only had 2 weak turn overs and 2 no starts within the last week. Working good so far.. Only else I can think of is the transmission range switch. If anybody has any suggestions, let me know.

 

There are two starter relays, one in driver footwell and another under hood. I had replaced one in footwell with no change. Fuel relays are in footwell too.

 

Try reconditioning the battery cables/posts with a battery terminals tool. Clean off the oxidation so the terminal/post are simi shiny. Go easy on the posts, lead is very soft.

 

I won't rule out the possibility of a bad connection in the starter circuit. Starter relays are notoriously bad in Hondas in general. I had nearly identical issues you mention in Legend #1.

However, the most common case for RLs is a weak battery. When my battery was going low, I never noticed dimmed electronics. Eventually my lights would flicker before startup, and I got an AFS error once. The one thing that stood out above all else when I got a new battery was how much faster it cranked. I had gotten used to a slow crank, but a new battery seemed like 2x as fast. I know you are up North. Was it cold just before or at the time this was happening? It very well could have been a cold battery issue and once it was started, it recharged.

 

It was cold both times when there was no crank. However, it has been just as cold the last couple nights and It has been starting right up no problem. It could be the battery but I have to check the relays next. All the grounds, starter, alternator and ignition switch is good. I haven't fully tested the transmission range switch cause too lazy to take off bumper or the switch itself off but I doubt it. Only thing left is the battery again which I cleaned the terminals and tightened them for now. Jumper cable in trunk just in case lol.

 

@Mark1980
I have a 2005 RL and the same exact thing recently happened to me...I replaced the battery and starter and it would still occasionally happen when attempting to start my car..."CHECK STARTING SYSTEM"....Lightly tapping the starter with a screw driver worked a few times for me, but on more than one occasion, I had to get it towed home, and then it would start right up...One of my buddy's told me to do the following if it happened again...
1. Keep foot on brake
2. drop it in neutral
3. start the car

No joke, the first time I attempted it, she fired right up...

The FIX: REPLACE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH

 

MY Original "check starting system" post...
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...system-934922/

 

I get the same thing at times and started recently. Seems the switch in the gear shift is the issue. I tried replacing the cut out relays and didn't fix. If I move the shift lever to the right while in park it starts. If I leave it set as is nothing and check starting system will come on. Remote start won't start when this issue happens and go out to car move shift lever to right car starts each and every time. It's intermitant at this point but doesn't seem to go away

 

There was a member recently who experienced the shifter position switch issue and wrote up a DIY fix IIRC.

 

So I don't think it's the starter or anything to do with the starter at all and I don't think it's anything to do with the proximity sensor I believe it's in the ecu or a bad connection I found my ground was loose it was tightened as tight as it would go but it could still move freely I put a battery post shim on both posts but having the battery disconnected for a few minutes allows the ecu to reset so I'm not quite sure which one it is but I really think it was just from the loose connection after I did this the message went away I have not seen it since these cars are very finiky when it comes to having the proper battery power before I put the shim on the positive post the car would stall radio would cut out so I did the positive post a few days before the negative post at the time the negative seemed to be tight but when I checked today I could pull it right off without loosening the terminal if it were the starter it would have different symptoms and if it were the starter solenoid it would not start at all