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Tonight I decided to open my left fog light as it cracked open. I want to try a retro so I wanted to get an idea of opening a sealed fog light. Has anyone succesfully opened one? The sealant is a silicone unlike the butyle type material on the headlight. I plan on baking my other set and trying to open but am kind of weary as I dont want to cracck them. is 7 min @ 350 good enough?
I don't see a need to go above 200. I got the lens off of my Tundra assembly around 175 IIRC. In any case, it is better to start low and work up than start too hot. How about 10 min at 200? Use a 1" putty knife instead of a screw driver to disperse the force and avoid dents.
When i did the passenger side fog light a few weeks ago on the rl, i used a fine tip flat head screw driver and pried the glass off in peices. Worked good.
My lense was already broke, so i wasnt concerned about breaking it. Good luck.
Ya, so was the one I took apart so I didn't care. I used a heat guy to see if it made it hot enough but it didn't heat up the sealant well enough. Thats why I'm going to look into backing and try the putty knife as suggested.
Has anybody looked at the new Morimoto LED fogs? They just brought out a bunch of new fitments of them. I put them in my TL. They are a direct replacement for the stock housings.
Has anybody looked at the new Morimoto LED fogs? They just brought out a bunch of new fitments of them. I put them in my TL. They are a direct replacement for the stock housings.
Yeah. The XB's that are the full housing and everything. They have Type S, T, M and Honda. The Type-S model is a direct fit for the 12+ TL. These are the ones I have. I couldn't be any happier with the quality and light output:
According to Morimoto, those will not fit the RL. Isnt a true projector better than LED anyways? I want projector fogs. I am going to add this to the other 4 projects I have on the go and see if I can get something done. The Fusion projector fogs aren't cutting it for me.
It's all going to depend in the type of projector and the bulb as to whether it's is better. The projectors will likely have a sharper cut off and larger light area, but they won't necessarily be brighter. What do you mean by "true projector"? I am willing to bet your bulbs are more your issue than the projectors.
low and slow is definitely how you want to bake your headlights! 350 is way too hot! You're not baking a pizza here!! You don't want that extra crispy!
How do you guys like your Type S LED Fogs? I got some Type H's hoping they would be a fit for my 3g TL but they're not unfortunately
What do you mean by "true projector"? I am willing to bet your bulbs are more your issue than the projectors.
Forget I said anything about 'True', I meant projector in general. What do you mean my bulbs are my issue? Do you mean in terms of output? I'm not a lighting expert, I just thought the output from a projector would be better than LED
Forget I said anything about 'True', I meant projector in general. What do you mean my bulbs are my issue? Do you mean in terms of output? I'm not a lighting expert, I just thought the output from a projector would be better than LED
Maybe I should go back a step. What is it about the Fusion projectors that you don't like?
I think in general, the output from a projector will be better than an LED setup. However, I believe there are plenty of projector/bulb combos out there that can be worse than a purpose built LED setup like the XBs. There is a member on HID Planet dot com that retrofit a D2S socket into the Fusion projectors. I believe that if you put the OSRAM Nightbreaker or CBI D2S in the Fusion projector, you will get much better output than from the Morimoto 3Five bulbs. I am not 100% satisfied with output my Fusion/3Five combo. BUT, I bought the cheapest bulbs available, so I don't expect them to be on par with a Fusion/CBI combo.
I have the same setup and I'm not saying its bad, The output is decent for what it is. I'm referring more to the cosmetic aspect. I prefer something with a more OEM look. I dont like how my fusion setup looks. I want to try to retro the fog assembly.
I have the same setup and I'm not saying its bad, The output is decent for what it is. I'm referring more to the cosmetic aspect. I prefer something with a more OEM look. I dont like how my fusion setup looks. I want to try to retro the fog assembly.
I understand your point. I'd really be curious to see what your final setup looked like? Good luck with this project, just watch out, the lenses are glass
So I baked at 250 and 300 with no sign of the lenses budging. I also backed the light I had opened to see how the residue would react and it didnt even budge. The sealant isnt the typical butyl . There was no sign of sealant breaking down or melting. This is going to be a tougher project to get it the way I want it.
he is trying to retro fit a projector down there so when a rock breaks it he can spend more money fixing it.
Lol.
Originally Posted by oo7spy
Yes. He needs to access the inside of the assembly to put a projector in there like my Tundra pic from what I have gathered.
That's what I was wondering.
Looking at the DIY fog light glass replacement thread, it might be easier to just break the glass off, retrofit the projectors and then seal it all back up with some new glass or lexan.
Looking at the DIY fog light glass replacement thread, it might be easier to just break the glass off, retrofit the projectors and then seal it all back up with some new glass or lexan.
From my research and what I've tried, I'm leaning to that myself and have actually bought the Lexan. I just want to exhaust everything before I break perfect glass. Haha, I'm sure you if anyone can understand.
I understand. Your situation doesn't make a whole ton of sense because plenty of people have cracked open the headlight without issue. Maybe the extreme cold of Canada or all the salt messed up the chemical balance of the sealant. 300 is crazy hot to me.
I understand. Your situation doesn't make a whole ton of sense because plenty of people have cracked open the headlight without issue. Maybe the extreme cold of Canada or all the salt messed up the chemical balance of the sealant. 300 is crazy hot to me.
300 is hot enough if it was butyl. The problem is the sealant isnt butyl. Headlights have never been a problem Even after numerous winters. This is some type of rubber/plastic material that I havent been able to break down. From what I read its some material like LLDPE that breaks down at 800 degrees. So if the torch doesnt do it, ill just break it.
This is where I'm at so far. This is the one that was broken. Im using it to test fit. I have 2 other pairs to work with, which is why I want to try to get the glass off clean. It looks like I'll have to use the Lexan. I'm planning on either painting the shroud and housing black or LSM.
Last edited by ChocBoyWonder; Mar 24, 2015 at 08:28 AM.
Will be interesting to see if you can fit the drivers side back in since there's hardly no space behind the foglight
It will fit. These don't protrude from the back. The smallest projectors (I believe). Everything actually fits within the housing. I'll take more pics the deeper I go. That was simply a test fit. The back of the housing needs to be shaved a bit to fit the bulb holder along with the glare ring holder on the inside. Shaving is going to take the longest since the housing is metal. I'm aiming for a week.