When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did you replace the stator with the compressor still mounted on the engine and if so, how long did the repair take? I have a new stator in hand and I'm trying to plan things out.
To be honest I'm not quite sure, however my mechanic did say it was a PITA to get to due to the angle ,and the very limited space to maneuver. Be sure to keep the washers cause the originals tend to bend upon removal. P.S pray that your Stator isn't frozen to the compressor
To be honest I'm not quite sure, however my mechanic did say it was a PITA to get to due to the angle ,and the very limited space to maneuver. Be sure to keep the washers cause the originals tend to bend upon removal. P.S pray that your Stator isn't frozen to the compressor
Replacing the stator is a DIY job if you have some mechanical skills and the right tools. The stator is on the outside of the compressor but difficult to get to unless the compressor is removed. I replaced my stator without removing the compressor, but it was a PITA. If you have the tools and a shop manual, you can do this yourself without evacuating the freon from the system. The stator costs about $100-110.
I need a new AC compressor clutch or a whole new compressor. Does anyone have a hookup for either to save a brother some $?
You should first confirm your diagnosis, if you need a Stator or a whole compressor unit. Stator is about $100, aftermarket (Ebay) compressor range from $350 to Oem $750. However depending what needs replacing labor may cost you more than the part.
My Acura RL a/c works intermittently. I had the Freon flush and refilled and there are no leaks.
Maybe it is the A/C relay? since it is cheap ($20 each)..I bought one..but I can't figure out where to install this relay...
Can anyone help me and let me know where this A/C relay goes?
Oh I found it!
The A/C relay is under hood, on the large fuse box driver side...turn the fuse box cover upside down and there is a diagram showing what's what..
hi... so about a couple of months ago my AC stopped working and took it to my local mechanic. trustworthy guy, and said the a compressor needed to get replaced which i did. anyways AC was working but still wasn't great. took it back and he said he thinks the AC condensor needed to be replaced which was going to be another 500 dollars but he also said if I'd like i could get a second opinion. well i took it to acura as part of the airbag recall and i paid them to have them take a look. anyways 200 dollars later they said the system was low on freon so they recharged it and all was good or so they said. anyways, that same day as I was driving home the AC starting cycling hot cold hot cold so, much to my chagrin, it wasn't fixed so i drove it back to acura the next day. they further diagnosed it and told me the relay was busted so i paid them another 200 dollars. after that they said the car was still doing the problem so they wanted to keep it over night. they also wanted to charge me 2 extra hours of diagnostics which was another 300 dollars. anyways long story short they said my car suffered the dreaded black death when the first compressor nuked and effectively destroyed my whole AC system which equated to 6400 dollars....
my question is.. is this really necessary? or can I just get the condensor replaced and be about my merry way? Thanks and any feedback would be appreciated.
Just to recap, you've replaced the compressor, refrigerant, and relay, and all of those are still working properly? Was the stator/clutch part of the compressor replacement?
Just to recap, you've replaced the compressor, refrigerant, and relay, and all of those are still working properly? Was the stator/clutch part of the compressor replacement?
Yes that is correct and they were part of the new compressor.
So, the condenser and the condenser fan are the only things left that I can think of. Having the whole system replaced when 75% of the parts are new doesn't make sense. I'm not an HVAC expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I would continue with a reputable A/C shop.
yeah exactly. but they were saying because we didn't replace the whole system the first time, the systems contaminated and EVERYTHING needs to be replaced again. seems fishy to me but i don't know. we will go with the condensor/condensor fan next.
Stator/field coil is what goes bad on these cars, it's a common issue and the symptom is ac going in and out. There is a tsb on this and it mainly affected to 05 and 06 cars. Happened on my car, but I was under warranty and the dealer replaced the compressor, said it had seized. If I were you, I'd find a better shop because someone doesn't know what they are doing, or they do and are taking advantage.
it sounds to me also that Acura misdiagnosed your issue and you should not have paid for more than one diagnostic charge. My dealer, whom I've never used for an out of warranty repair, charges $135 to diagnose.
Stator/field coil is what goes bad on these cars, it's a common issue and the symptom is ac going in and out. There is a tsb on this and it mainly affected to 05 and 06 cars. Happened on my car, but I was under warranty and the dealer replaced the compressor, said it had seized. If I were you, I'd find a better shop because someone doesn't know what they are doing, or they do and are taking advantage.
it sounds to me also that Acura misdiagnosed your issue and you should not have paid for more than one diagnostic charge. My dealer, whom I've never used for an out of warranty repair, charges $135 to diagnose.
yeah.. well they said they couldn't figure out hte problem so they needed to bill an extra two hours.
Question: SO I did buy a brand new Denso compressor to have my mechanic install it. he insists that the stator is a part of the compressor. so... IS the stator a part of a new compressor or is it a completely seperate part? thanks for the info.
You can replace the stator separately, but I don't know that I have ever heard of replacing a compressor without it. Usually a shop either doesn't know which of the three main compressor parts it is or they don't care, and they just change the whole assembly.
These are all the things that come with the kit I bought, Im assuming the STATOR is already included or is it a separate item? I know you can buy its seperately but thats not what im asking. what I'm saying is "Is the stator a part of the Compressor assembly in this case?"
went to another shop for a second opinion. sounds like Acura's quote is bogus. they said you shouldn't ever have to replace all fo the components since the systems can be flushed. anyways i filed a formal complaint with acura and i'll see what happens. also going to just let my original guy finish the job. i don't think i'll ever goto the stealership again... unfortunately i don't know if i'll ever buy another acura again since this whole ordeal has left a bad taste in my mouth at least not from Acura of Lynnwood.
I'm glad you put the very last part of that post in there. It's unfortunate, but stealerships are not anywhere near equal, and Acura has little to no control over how they operate. Denying an entire brand on one dealership's customer service would be rash.
Now, with that said, Acura has changed a lot over the years and you may find you'll never buy one again because you don't enjoy what they have to offer. That's legitimate.
A/C stopped working on my '05 yesterday. Some smoke started coming out from under the hood while at a stoplight. Noticed that it was not as cold as it should have been in the cab. Turned the A/C off and pulled over. By the time I had the hood popped most of the smoke was gone. Couldn't tell where it was coming from. Since then the compressor doesn't kick on and there is no A/C. I'm tempted to try replacing the stator to see if that does it. Any thoughts? No prior issues with this. Maybe a little extra compressor noise, but who can hear anything, it's so quite in the cab.
I'm glad you put the very last part of that post in there. It's unfortunate, but stealerships are not anywhere near equal, and Acura has little to no control over how they operate. Denying an entire brand on one dealership's customer service would be rash.
Now, with that said, Acura has changed a lot over the years and you may find you'll never buy one again because you don't enjoy what they have to offer. That's legitimate.
Hope your A/C gets fixed.
AC is FIXED! all it took was replacing the condensor and my old previous mechanic did it all for the price of 500 dollars. a far cry from 6k. really glad i didn't do something as stupid as replacing my whole AC system per acura of lynnwoods advice. I wonder if there is anyway to file a complaint about these shady business practices.thanks for all the responses guys!
I'm paying $750 at a local trusted community shop for the compressor and clutch. Is this a relatively good deal? From what or researched it is (dealers quoting $1839)
It's not bad at all.
These are the prices I got locally
Acura Dealership - At least $2000 (yes that's how they quoted me)
Well my car AC went out today, i was at the stop light and suddenly heard a light squeaking sounds which is not normal to me then smells a burnt plastic or like a shorted electrical smell. So i turned off the AC and back on and i didn't hear the AC engaging and not blowing cold air at all. Is my compressor seized up or the stator/clutch fried?
Well good news is I fixed my AC by my own. The compressor seized, I bought all the parts oem. I bought every tools like Vacuum Pump, Gauge and hose for the compressor. Now my AC is ice cold again. Getting 40 to 38 degrees on low fan and lo temp.
ac went out last week. followed instructions in our shop manual to diagnose ac compressor, fuses were good, relay was good, continuity good from wire harness at the compressor to the relay, voltage at the relay, jumped pin 1 and pin 2 where the relay plugs in and compressor clutch would not engage. also would get out of range ohm readings on the field coil, so i was convinced that was the issue. i checked freon psi, and i was getting the same pressure on high and low side. on a working compressor, when compressor spins, low side drops to about 25 to 40 and high side should be be about 150 or more.
it's pretty simple to get to the compressor, remove passenger tire, remove 2 splash guards in wheel well, remove accessory belt via tensioner, i found it easy and helpful to remove windshield washer reservoir. but it was definitely tough to remove both snap rings, especially the 2nd one that holds the field coil in place. the frame of the vehicle is pretty much directly in front of the compressor. i purchased a lisle snap ring plier, must have, its heavy duty and strong enough to grab snap ring even on an angle cause you can adjust the tips. so since i had to approach the snap ring at an angle due to frame in front of compressor, i just adjusted the snap ring plier tips so that one tip was longer than the other, allowing and angle approach to still grasp the snap ring. i also had to spin the 2nd snap ring around so that the eyes were on firewall side of the compressor, facing me and away from the frame in front of the compressor. a ton of patience, probably 2hrs playing with the snap ring plier and the difficult angle. i almost gave up and just removed and replaced the entire compressor, but i was either dumb to keep going at it for 2 days, a few hrs each day, or lucky. but i could do it again in under 1hr. it was my first time replacing a snap ring with the compressor in the vehicle so there was def a learning curve there. snap rings are a piece of cake when you have room, but there is zero room with this job. the pos harbor freight snap ring kit i bought were garbage for this project. they may work for other scenarios, but one of the tips broke while attempting to remove the 2nd snap ring. in the process i realized that after so many attempts at trying to install the new snap ring, the new snap ring would curve and bend, it would not be straight anymore. so i took some pliers and bent the snap ring back to flat, i believe this realization is what helped get the snap ring to fit after to many failed attempts.
We made a trip to Los Angeles a week ago and while we were there, the car started to make what sounded like a slipping belt. It would only happen at start up and the car ran fine otherwise. So when we got home I ordered a new belt and tensioner. Since the car has 201,000 it had been 140,000 since the last valve adjustment and 100,000 miles since the plugs were changed., I ordered new cam cover seals and Nippon Denso plugs.
After getting the air plenum off, The intake runners were dark but nothing to be alarmed at. It had been 140,000 miles since it had been off and I was pleasantly surprised how clean it was. A can of carb cleaner left it looking almost new.
The intake valves were loose about .003-.005 inches. Just a minor tweak of the screwdriver and they were all back in spec. Exhausts seemed to be fine (what a royal pain to get them checked with the feeler gauge)
The spark plugs looked like I put them in yesterday they were that good after 100,000 miles.
After putting everything back together and installed the new belt tensioner and power belt. I started the car and the noise was still there. It seems to be only when I turn on the a/c that it squeals. I suspect the the a/c clutch is going out.
I am just wondering if anyone has changed out the a/c clutch? It appears to be held in place by a circlip. Or it it more involved than I am guessing? Is this a dealer repair?
The clutch runs about $280.
Thanks in advance, it isn't often that I need to jump on here and get some help. The car is that reliable!
I got the same sounds which I ignored and I thought its just the bearings making the sounds, then while I am driving my ac compressor seized on me. Have it serviced to an AC mechanic it might need a pag oil and Freon. This is my personal opinion only and I am not mechanic
Originally Posted by alfadoctor
We made a trip to Los Angeles a week ago and while we were there, the car started to make what sounded like a slipping belt. It would only happen at start up and the car ran fine otherwise. So when we got home I ordered a new belt and tensioner. Since the car has 201,000 it had been 140,000 since the last valve adjustment and 100,000 miles since the plugs were changed., I ordered new cam cover seals and Nippon Denso plugs.
After getting the air plenum off, The intake runners were dark but nothing to be alarmed at. It had been 140,000 miles since it had been off and I was pleasantly surprised how clean it was. A can of carb cleaner left it looking almost new.
The intake valves were loose about .003-.005 inches. Just a minor tweak of the screwdriver and they were all back in spec. Exhausts seemed to be fine (what a royal pain to get them checked with the feeler gauge)
The spark plugs looked like I put them in yesterday they were that good after 100,000 miles.
After putting everything back together and installed the new belt tensioner and power belt. I started the car and the noise was still there. It seems to be only when I turn on the a/c that it squeals. I suspect the the a/c clutch is going out.
I am just wondering if anyone has changed out the a/c clutch? It appears to be held in place by a circlip. Or it it more involved than I am guessing? Is this a dealer repair?
The clutch runs about $280.
Thanks in advance, it isn't often that I need to jump on here and get some help. The car is that reliable!
THank you for your advice. I wias thinking of taking it in and having someone listen and see if it was what I think it is. A new compressor is $325 plus the labor to install and recharge it.
Alfa, I merged your thread into the one A/C thread with the most info. It likely covers more than you need, but your info should be in here. Good luck fixing your issue.
