Had my battery tested today, came in at 480 out of 550 cca and received a "pass" rating. Not bad for an original 05 battery (car was placed in service 3/05).

BTW, also had my brake fluid changed, $60 at Meineke, dealer wanted $130.

Inquired about trans and differential flush (it's not a "flush," they have a machine that exchanges it slowly) since I am getting close to that, $80 for each or $160 total. Not sure what the dealer will charge, but seemed reasonable. Can probably find a coupon for 10% off somewhere.

 

I have an 06 RL that I bought in November '05 so the battery is going on 5 years! I guess I have been fortunate compared to a lot of people.

Now I am looking for a new flat top battery and REALLY having a hard time. I want one that fits with the cover and fuse link.

Any suggestions on what is available now?

Thanks for your thoughts

Loren
lorendoppelt@comcast.net
Palatine, IL

 

Isn't there some kind of recall for leaking master cylinder seals when non Honda brake fluid was used? Not saying you shouldn't have someone else do it, just to use Honda fluid to be safe. That is what I do with tranny fluid...supply Honda ATF to them.

 

12 miles like that should charge it. Have it tested. FYI, notes on my 06 RL show that the battery was changed about 2008 for the PO under a campaign to replace defective batteries. There may be a TSB out there if one looked hard enough to find it.

 

So reviving really old thread here, but in case anyone is looking for a battery for a second generation RL, I found that the Bosch 'premium' battery fits well (with cover and all).

Paid around $110 in Long Island, with taxes and all from Pep Boys. Probably can get a cheaper one, but I like the Bosch batteries. It is rated at 700 cca at 0f, 850 at 32f.

After it giving me no trouble at all, OEM battery was totally dead after I did not move the car for a weekend. Was street-parked and some birds had a convention on the RL, so thinking the alarm may have been going off (did not leave lights). Jump started and car has been starting for more than a week, but clearly the car had a hard time doing it. Stealer would not honor the previous owner's battery warranty, although an 'official' Acura one, battery looked to be 3 years old.

Pep Boys test showed it at 175 CCA. Was surprised the car would start at all like that, maybe the test is more aggressive towards 'replacing the battery'?

Anyways, heading to the stealer tomorrow for a B16 maintenance. Was quoted $189, and want to have them do it, given I am still under extended warranty.... I will do my oil changes, but given I just got the car, and it is the first one under warranty, I am not risking the diff fluid change for that price.

 

DO NOT USE ANY MACHINE TO DO TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE, JUST SIMPLY DRAIN AND FILL. 3 QTS AT A TIME. I AM GOING TO USE REDLINE D4 ATF

 

Does anyone know if Acura still does this battery warranty thing?

For the last two weeks I have not driven my car which included last week during the Polar Vortex. The lowest it got overnight in my area was 3 degrees. Last night I realized that I could not use the keyless entry to get into the car and found out the battery was dead. I jump started the car and drove around for about 10 minutes. This morning I try to start the car and it would not turn over. I'm going to Autozone tomorrow for a battery test and I'm thinking that it will need to be replaced. If the dealer still offers this battery warranty plan then I'll most likely go with the OEM and if not then I'll go with another brand. Is this still available from the dealer and what will I have to spend for a new OEM battery?

 

If you have the purchase reciept, they will honor it. I think it's $120 for a new Acura battery. If you decide to go aftermarket, make sure the battery has a flush top (no raised caps).

 

I called the dealership and was quoted $100 for the battery. I will not be needing a new one since the battery and alternator was tested by Autozone and it was determined that both were fine. The battery needed some more charging so I drove around for 30 minutes and so far so good. I will be going OEM when the time comes to change the battery.

 

The number of RLs with battery issues that "passed" battery tests is really unbelievable. The car may start, but everything from door handles to AFS, VSA, and SH-AWD issues can rear their heads.

 

I typed similar responses but all of them said "fine, learn the hard way"

 

Guys, do you remember what's the maximum length of the battery we can put in? I'm looking at 77Ah 770CCA battery which is top quality but length is 278mm. Will it fit? BTW. CMBS error has just appeared while idling :/.

 

Length or height? You could easily measure the length and width. The height will be harder to measure. Some people have mentioned having to ditch the cover because the replacement was too tall.

 

Length, without taking old battery out it's hard to get accurate measurement but it seems like it will be very close fit. Definitely, I would have to ditch the cover.

 

New battery hasn't helped. Buying HDS clone to troubleshoot further...

 

Interstate MT-24 fits perfectly, works like a champ. Size is 6.88W X 10.25L X 8.75H. Can be had for about $120. The AGM version is the MT7-AGM, virtually the same size, runs about $255.

 

I got an optima about 5 years ago for my 92 legend, transferred it to my RL when I got it almost 2 years ago. It's a Dual Post unit that did not fit perfectly because the posts were not in the correct position but it works great now that it's in there!!

Since I'm evil that way, I'll resurrect this thread in 8 more years when it dies to report on the total length of life!

 

I'm using an Optima Red Top in my RL right now, I've never trusted any other battery ever since I started using Optima in my previous Accord.
It's slightly smaller than the OEM Acura battery, so I wasn't able to reuse the battery cover, but it's all good.

 

i use an optima red top too. they have options for many variations of batteries. and my last battery lasted 3 years.

 

I was told by the dealer today that warranty on replacement battery covers only battery purchased not replaced under warranty.
so the max you can claim is two batteries.
In my case battery was replaced under warranty, the replacement battery is not covered under warranty.

 

Yesterday the battery on my 2010 RL went out. I called my mechanic and he told OEM or Autozone Gold or Platinum batteries are good.. He stirred me towards Autozone, since there are a ton of stores vs. the dealer where is more limited if I need to do a warranty swap..

Picked up a battery from Autozone (Platinum) and well the height of the batter was smaller. Therefore the clamp and hooks that hold the battery in place are too big. Plus the plastic wrap around the battery is also too big.. So I've made the decision to just take it back to Autozone and get a battery from the dealer.

The main reason is the hooks and clamp over the battery to hold it in place are just too big and I'm a bit afraid the batter would move. The plastic shield around the battery is not a big concern for me..

Or if someone knows of another aftermarket brand that fits as snug as a OE, let me know..

 

I've run into the same problems as you have. But to be honest save yourself hassle of going the dealer. the money you would spend on an oem battery is probably better spent on an optima. Better performance and the way optima is made you can use its many configurations to fit. I never used one before but the guy at the autoparts store was pretty good and to it to fit with the cover and all. It is smaller so maybe some savings in weight.

 

I looked at a Optima Battery.. In my area it's twice as much as the Autozone and OE (Dealer) battery. Plus, my mechanic is getting me the battery at his cost. He told me Autozone, Oreilly's, and Napa will not give him a discount on a Optima Battery..

I'm getting the OE battery ($93) for more than half of what an Optima costs. Plus the OE battery comes with 3 yr warranty and after that, it's prorated to the cost of a new one. Honestly for the price, i don't think i can turn it away.

 

O'Rielly's had exactly what I needed in 2012. You could always use a spacer to get a snug fit too.

 

Thread resurrection.

I guess Acura's battery used to have free replacement for 4 years. Mine, bought 3 years and 2 months ago, apparently has it for 3. It's acting in a way I can tell from experience means the battery is about to die -- very slow first crank on cold starts ("cold" being 30 degrees, first thing in the morning) -- and the steering wheel is not moving out to meet me whatsoever after it starts.

Dealer where I bought the battery just very politely told me that because the battery tests OK on their gauge, they won't honor the warranty, not even on a pro-rated basis (he said if they could, I'd get reimbursed 60% of the $110 price). The service writer sympathetically said he simply couldn't honor the warranty on a battery that still tested as good because he wouldn't get reimbursed when he turned in the old part. Said I should wait for it to die so I could get the reimbursement. Absolutely politely, I replied that his interests required the battery to die, but with my busy schedule, mine required that I not wait for it to die. And if I were going to watch the battery outlast the warranty period anyway, there was no reason for me to spend more in order to buy it from Acura.

Off to Pep Boys for a Bosch, I guess.

 

^I bought a Bosch battery shortly after getting my car in 2012. It's a great battery and I've had 0 issues so far. Also worth noting I put it on a tender if it sits longer than a week, which probably helps. Just a heads up, the terminals on my Bosch battery were on the opposite side than the Acura battery posts and required me to bring them across from below the battery, I also had to modify (read cut) the battery cover for the negative terminal. Might be different now

 

Dealer batteries aren't worth it. Did you get charged for the test? And their capacity is just about. A weak battery can affect other components. Better off getting a high end one with CCA above 650.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post15843985

 

I replaced my battery recently since it probably couldn't go another winter season. Last winter my car sat for only three days and wouldn't start, After having it tested the tech said it was below standard and would need replacement. I went with a Diehard Gold after considering the OEM battery. Dealer wanted $129 whereas the Diehard I got for a sale price of just under $100. The Diehard battery is rated at 680 cca unlike OEM which is 550 if I recall correctly.

 

Made me look. But no, I'm luckier -- the positive and negative posts are at least located at the OEM corners of the top. Whether Bosch has changed or the '12 has the locations flipped from the '05-08, I have no idea, but I'll accept good luck anywhere it's provided. As for cutting the cover, guess I'll find out tomorrow when I try to drop this thing in.

 

projekt has a KB1 (he bought in 2012).

 

Yup mine's an '07. It would honestly be great if they swapped the location since it was such a PITA to do that when I installed it... On the plus side, it's coming up on 5 years and I haven't had any issues with it, so maybe it was worth the pain

 

Happy ending: Dealer was right. Bought the Bosch ($100 with coupon, looked like it'd fit). Went to remove the positive cable from the Acura-branded battery, and discovered the clamp was lying loose on the post, held only basically only by gravity. Bent it, tightened it, and voila! Still a good battery. No wonder it tested as good -- it is good.

Impressed by the courtesy of my local Pep Boys, though. I'm sure the performance of a chain store like this varies wildly by location, but they were very responsive. When this battery eventually dies, I'd willingly go back to pick up another.

 

Happy endings are always good