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You know what's stupid about foregoing a search and making a new thread? The information is already here, and you are opting to ignore it in hopes that someone will come along and say it again which may not happen.
You know what's also stupid? Starting your third thread on the same topic. I merged all three into an appropriate thread with vendor options. It took me an entire 3 minutes to find all 4 on an iPhone.
You are so correct. Guess I am getting to old to mess with my cars and being stupid for asking a question several times and not remembering.
Sorry to have bothered anyone about this. I moved 800 miles with just my wife and I, doing it all. No help. So we are just now getting life back on track, and I forgot I had made some previous questions about the motor mounts.
Doing something stupid and being stupid are not mutually inclusive. Also, no one is going to be bothered by your inquiries.
I realize that what I said was harsh and possibly unnecessarily. However, there are many people who come to this forum and others looking for information, and when there are dozens of threads on the same topic, the search becomes tedious and sometimes useless. If someone isn't around to answer their question after they can't find it searching, they are SOL. That is the reason we have a rule to search first and another to not start new threads on existing topics.
Doing something stupid and being stupid are not mutually inclusive. Also, no one is going to be bothered by your inquiries.
I realize that what I said was harsh and possibly unnecessarily. However, there are many people who come to this forum and others looking for information, and when there are dozens of threads on the same topic, the search becomes tedious and sometimes useless. If someone isn't around to answer their question after they can't find it searching, they are SOL. That is the reason we have a rule to search first and another to not start new threads on existing topics.
To be completely honest I'm not a huge fan of the Search bar on this forum. Unlike other forums I used in the past when searching for something it uses your words as keywords so if you type "RL Exhaust" it will really just search for any post where some has either said "Exhaust" or "RL". It's really annoying because you get hundreds if not thousands of results and I'm not going to sift through all those posts that are more than likely completely irrelevant to what I'm looking for.
Got my motor mount for the front today along with the extra one I bought that is a solid mount.
Tried looking online for a side mount instead of going straight through Honda but looks like I might have to shell out the $140 for it.
Okay UPDATE! I am having my mounts done today. You can use TL-S mounts on our cars! The side mount will require a bit shaved off the side bracket iirc but will bolt right up. Napa has that mount for $79.99
Yes it is lol after further inspection the mount brackets are definitely different. the RL mount has 3 bolts and the TL-S has 2, still work and is apparently better.
Update: Both mounts were broken to the point that when I went to move the top mounting attachment, they just fell out. I would imho just replace these at 125,000 (or as needed) as a matter of course, broken or not as they will break at some point.
I ordered the mounts from Rock Auto and they were on my door step in a few days. Excellent service.
The front mount has to be installed with the radiator removed. That was the only way I found to install it. Once I figured out how to get the radiator out with the fans, there was plenty of room. The radiator just slides out for the most part intact.
It is best to remove the side mount on the passenger side to have enough room to jack the engine up to slide in the new mount. To do the mounts you need a 14mm and a 17mm socket on extensions with a breaker bar. I tried the ratchet but I didn't have enough leverage on the handle to break the nuts/bolts loose. The front mount is a tight fit in that you have to insert the top bolt first to get it started, then install the 4 bolts to the frame. I tried it in reverse and I couldn't get the top bolt to go in.
As to the side mount, the TL mount does work. You have to have some way to reshape one or both of the holes to give it enough room to align the top mount so it sits straight to the solid mount on the motor. In my case I had to have another hole drilled along side the existing one to get it to align.
The hardest part was getting those electrical connectors to release, and getting the radiator to clear the air intake to the filter box.
Once you learn how to do this, the next time will be a lot faster.
Any questions feel free to ask, as I just finished this work last night.
Update: Both mounts were broken to the point that when I went to move the top mounting attachment, they just fell out. I would imho just replace these at 125,000 (or as needed) as a matter of course, broken or not as they will break at some point.
I ordered the mounts from Rock Auto and they were on my door step in a few days. Excellent service.
The front mount has to be installed with the radiator removed. That was the only way I found to install it. Once I figured out how to get the radiator out with the fans, there was plenty of room. The radiator just slides out for the most part intact.
It is best to remove the side mount on the passenger side to have enough room to jack the engine up to slide in the new mount. To do the mounts you need a 14mm and a 17mm socket on extensions with a breaker bar. I tried the ratchet but I didn't have enough leverage on the handle to break the nuts/bolts loose. The front mount is a tight fit in that you have to insert the top bolt first to get it started, then install the 4 bolts to the frame. I tried it in reverse and I couldn't get the top bolt to go in.
As to the side mount, the TL mount does work. You have to have some way to reshape one or both of the holes to give it enough room to align the top mount so it sits straight to the solid mount on the motor. In my case I had to have another hole drilled along side the existing one to get it to align.
The hardest part was getting those electrical connectors to release, and getting the radiator to clear the air intake to the filter box.
Once you learn how to do this, the next time will be a lot faster.
Any questions feel free to ask, as I just finished this work last night.
Just so you know the front mount is very easy to r&r if you just remove the driver side fan lol you don't lose your coolant that way
The issue with removing the drivers side fan was that the two fans are wired together. I figured it was easier to remove the entire radiator than to deal with the wiring in a tight spot. It was bad enough trying to disconnect the electrical connectors, as they are very tight. Just be sure they "click" when you reinstall them.
Thanks to all that posted, but I'm still reluctant to take on the replacement process for something that sounds so simple, yet has it's own control system with vacuum lines??? The attached service manual is frightening alone. Some pictures were removed from old posts, some prefer solid to hydraulic mounts, some engine mount posts end with the dealer's paid bill...I'm tempted to start a new thread, but oo7spy would slap me.
Anyone willing to post some pictures or a video of the front and side replacement process?
-I will replace the side first. So wood on the oil pan and jack up a couple inches and unbolt and replace with either a hacked TL-S mount or a dealer mount..got it. Hoping I dont wreck an oil or transmission seal in the process. My rear main is already questionable.
-Then the front will come from rockauto, but needs a vacuum line hooked up, I believe. I know the XLR8's dont. I assume it's easy to pop out the line from the old and put it in the new one?
Would replacing just the side mount for now be terrible for the remaining mounts knowing that the front is gone too?
As for jacking up the motor, there isn't much to fuck up unless you dent the pan without a piece of wood. Just jack it up to keep the motor level, unbolt mount and reinstall it, lower jack.
As I described in my previous post, you can do the side mount by itself. To do the front mount you have to undo the side mount, so as TehCL posted, it is best to do the two together.
You will have have to lift the engine up enough to be able to slide the front mount out and back in. To do that the side mount must be undone. The engine only has to come up enough to clear. That would be approximately 4 inches at the most. Once you get the engine unbolted from the broken mount, and removed the 4 bolts from the frame, jack the engine up just enough to pull the mount out.
As to the vacuum fitting, pay attention to how the line is located before removing the mount, as it needs to go back in the same way. Just unplug the hose from the bottom and insert the hose into the new one. If you find the line loose, just trim off a bit of the hose to make it tight. To much and you will be stretching the hose; not good.
Just reinsert the new mount, hand tighten all the nuts before tightening them down. Put some lube on the bolts to make it easier. Start with the engine bolt. Just start it with a couple full turns of the bolt. Then set the other 4 bolts into the frame. If you do not start the engine bolt, it is possible you could not get it to go in or cross thread it.
Last edited by alfadoctor; 04-24-2016 at 10:28 AM.
Its a alum pan it will hold the weight. Use a floor jack with a rag and your ok. Or use a piece of wood on top of the pad to prevent scratching it.
The front is a joke to do, remove the fan and then remove the 3 bolts and 1 bolt holding the top bracket in and remove the 4 bolts holding the engine mount down.
Well, I'm realizing removing just the driver fan is quite difficult. There's a thin wire bundle running along the bottom of both fans and that's the only thing keeping me from making progress right now. Can't see any place to disconnect or unhook it from. Thoughts?
Last edited by not_a_doctor; 04-30-2016 at 12:41 PM.
Took an intermission knowing that it will be impossible to get to the last connector without taking the plastic under shield apart (unless anyone can knows an easier way.) Below is a pic of the last connector taken through the hole in the shield.
For reference, the fan is already somewhat lifted up and the only connector I can see left is the grey one, but it's still a shot in the dark. Plus, how the hell do you remove those plastic wire clips?? Maybe if I figure out how to remove the air intake, there's access with the battery removed. Which did you guys do?
No one's offered any yet, but there's a video of the TL. Maybe its a similar process. The front is identical, except TL's dont need the fan to come out
I dunno what that means. Its tha truth. There isn't one person who can factually claim that the aftermarket mounts don't cause extra noise and vibration.
Stock (with a broken right side mount mind you) versus Poly:
not trying to claim aftermarket mounts do not cause any discomfort as I have never had them installed on my car but the graph says 75A which is a "stiffness coefficient" from what I have read online and 75A is not considered for street cars, there are some 60A-s available and they should be at least a bit more comfy.
I know this post is old but as our mounts suck so badly, lots of people are searching for info about mounts on this forum, not only rl owners, but jdm legend owners as well like me and I thought it should have been noted here.
03-24-2016, 12:51 PM
