I have been lurking on the RL site for about 2 weeks reading all I can about my new to me black RL. First of all, thanks for all the advice and information that I rec'd when the trans in my TL died from the Acurazine members. This site is invaluable for any and all information that one may ever need. Kudos to all!

The 2nd gen RL first caught my eye about 5 years ago but I had no idea that the car had such a high level of performance and technology!. Looking forward to getting the rear spoiler lip and the wooden steering wheel and gearshift. The car is in excellent condition except for the temp display that sometimes goes out. I have already researched that issue via Acurazine and will try the fix in a few weeks. The car is wonderful so far and thanks again to Acurazine for all the info, pre and post sale.

 

 

Are you talking about the bit on the dash under the center speaker? What did you find, mine goes out at times - I tried the engineer repair and hit it with my hand and it came back on, thinking something is loose but not sure. I just got my 2006 by the way, love the car, we made a good choice.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...g-help-854144/

I think post #9 is what you gents are looking for?

 

Yep, thanks.

 

@julius071 lol...I will post some that I got from the dealership...Planning on waxing it up this weekend (weather here has been terrible) and will take more pics.

@h8pvmt: yeah, yesterday the car sat in the sun while I was at work and the display stayed on all evening. This morning, no display. Pretty sure its a cold solder joint. I may attempt the fix myself but I haven't soldered in years...may just have an electrician do it on 2nd thought.....

 

@julius07

@julius071...here is one from the dealership parking lot...

 

Whoever ends up doing it make sure you touch all the joints to give them a fresh bead. Was suggested to me when I did mine and think was valuable advice.

Welcome to the dark side

 

@08KBP_VA you did yours yourself? Any add'l pointers?

 

Yes I did...never soldered before and short of some test bead messes it went well. Took longer to remove the pod from the dash. I posted pics in another thread on what I found.

 

@08KBP_VA Cool...will try this weekend...Thanks!

 

Which thread did you post pictures in? I need to do this, I have a soldering gun and solder I just don't want to ruin it.

 

None of my searches were successful I could not find the post sorry. It just showed pics of the funky solder joints that I found. I could swear there was a detailed thread I posted in that listed the steps to remove the unit then repair. Hopefully one of mods can help out and can locate.

 

I couldn't find any threads with pictures posted, but I was able to find a thread of yours where you described how you did it...

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post15711082

 

Thanks for posting this link.

could swear there was a thread where pics of folks findings were posted and I "thought" I posted in that thread. Not a big deal but it would give the folks attempting this the ability to determine what we were defining as a bad "bead" or connection.

Ok so I was partially right...heres the link I was thinking about but I didnt post. Sorry for the confusion.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...es-off-823046/

and link 2

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-854144/page2/

 

Thanks everyone, fixed mine yesterday. I was able to easily see the bad joints and get them touched up rather quickly. So far all's good!

 

H8PVMT : how long did it take? I just found my soldering iron, so I'm gonna attempt this weekend. The center channel just pulls straight up? I don't want to ruin it. When the display is on it looks so cool. I'm really loving this 11 year old car! My neighbors and family thought it was a 2017 it looks & drives so well.

 

To remove the speaker and display, start with the display part and push/pull up then the back will come out as well. There are 5 tabs that keep it down - just a little force will get it out without any issues. Once that is out unplug the speaker and the LED display. There are two phillips head screws that you'll need to remove. Once you get the display unit removed there are I think 5 tabs that you need to pry open in order to get to the circuit board. Once you do that there are 3 tabs that hold the circuit board in place. Once the board is removed find the bad solider joints - I wasn't sure what I was looking for but it became obvious once I saw it. The solder is cracked or pitted, those are the places I touched up and it didn't take much at all.

Once I finished I tested it out before I put it all back together again. All in all I think I spent 30 minutes on it. Really much easier than I thought and I even went to Lowes and bought a solder iron - so that tells you my experience with solider - not much.

 

H8PVMT Thanks so much for the info. May attempt this weekend but it seems like it had decided to stay on since I've been talking about it! Lol. thanks again.