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It will help if you have a microscope or at least a good magnifying glass. Inspect all solder joints and look for cracks or discoloration. If you see any of those, then use the soldering iron to touch those joints until the solder flows and then release.
It will help if you have a microscope or at least a good magnifying glass. Inspect all solder joints and look for cracks or discoloration. If you see any of those, then use the soldering iron to touch those joints until the solder flows and then release.
The one a the way at the end connected to the harness connector looks like it has a Crack looking under a loop
I had the same problem and here is my solution:
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
Great help here, ALL FIXED!! A solder on the large green plug was not complete, heated it and add a little solder and all,is well. Oh by the way. I used the microscope app on my iPhone , it used the light and zoom to perfection. THANKS db22!!
I am having the same problem as well.. I do not feel comfortable DIY as I don't have much experience working on my car. I do have AcuraCare which should cover this right?
Depends on the policy. I'm betting no since it's electronics. You could always take the unit out, and have a computer repair shop take a crack at it with the info in this thread.
I have the complete AcuraCare Coverage for 5yr/120K which I brought right before the 4yr/50K warranty expired.. Based on your answer oo7spy, I am guess there was no TSB for this eventhough this seems to be a common issue.
There were 30,000 2005 RLs sold. There would have to be 300 of these failures to break 1% of the first model year. I doubt it's really a common issue versus the door handles or propeller shaft bearing.
I had the same problem and here is my solution:
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
This very post is why i came back to a forum. What i soldered was the conector points and display. My issues were, not lighting but could see it was displaying, and also display nothing but be lit.
Great thread! I used a microscope and easily found the bad solder joints where green connector is attached. I added solder and flowed the joint until it was nice and shiny. Then cleaned with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Works great.
I can't see where the bad solder joint is on mine... So frustrating...
I couldnt either but I popped it under a magnifying glass which helped a bit as I saw one joint that looked funky but in interest of my sanity I did same as Thoiboi and touched all the joints and no issues since.
I had a friend do mine today. He touched each pin with the soldering iron to make sure they were all good. It is working now. Time will tell if it is fixed.
Had the same problem with my 2005 RL. I began the procedure, figured I would start by learning how to take the speaker off. Once I got it off, I noticed that the green connection plug, even thou connected properly, would move up and down, very loose connection. Seemed to me that this could be a problem. Being a lazy person that I am, took a look in my glove compartment and found some paper. I riped a piece about one inch by 6 or 8 inches long and folded down to about 1 inch by 1/2 inch. I inserted this piece of paper into the green connectors to really tighten them up.
NO PROBLEMS SINCE, cannot believe it was this easy. Still have all of you suggestions if I have more problems down the road. But try checking your green connectors firsts.
Well what do you know, I had the same problem in my 05 RL. It would flicker on and off. I would smack it and it would come back on. I finally popped the thing out and tried the easiest method first, the connectors. I pushed them all the way in, and for 2 weeks now I have had zero issues with the display flickering. If the issue does come back, I'm going to try mrudolph007's idea with the paper by the connections to tighten them up.
Just finished the job in under 30 mins. Flowed the connectors and added tiny bits of solder to the contacts behind the green connector. Installed and it works!
Just finished the job in under 30 mins. Flowed the connectors and added tiny bits of solder to the contacts behind the green connector. Installed and it works!
10-15-2015, 09:19 AM
