New member. 2007 RL Technology model owned 4 yrs. My 1st post:
Recently cannot get main cruise control button that puts me in cruise control mode and lights the green main cruise control light to stay latched on
It lights when I push cruise control button, but light is off as soon as I release button.
If I hold button continuously, I stay in cruise mode and can set speed and run at speed in cruise control. Release button and I'm out of cruise control.
Basically, cruise control works, but main cruise control switch function doesn't stay latched on.

I've read the threads that suggest the brake switch may be continuously engaging and forcing cruise off-but my brake lights are not always on so that's not it.
I've seen threads where people claim this problem is caused by a bad main cruise switch-but I don't believe them.
Somewhere I saw a schematic that shows the main cruise button going into an integrated circuit (IC) that is part of the cruise control system.
I'm an electrical engineer and no engineer would specify a mechanical latching switch when they could easily perform the latch function free electrically in the IC.
So, my guess is the problem is that the IC is somehow wedged in a weird state, and I can perform a power reset to get it out of that state and operating correctly.

Questions for the forum
1. There are links to download RL schematics and manuals, but they require downloading pdf hub. Is this program safe and not malware?
2. My car has enough electrical gremlins with the door handle touch sensors/transmitters and Nav system DVD player. Right now, everything has been stable for a while, and I don't want to tempt fate by pulling the battery terminal and resetting everything electrical in the car.
To power down reset as safely as possible I'd like to pull the cruise control fuse. Only fuse description that is close is labeled as ACC (adaptive cruise?) Car is not equipped with ACC. Does this fuse control standard cruise also?
If not, does anyone know the correct cruise control fuse. (I can figure it out with schematics if I have to).
3. Please comment on any success fixing this problem without opening steering column and removing air bag to get at switch. If that's really the fix I'm not messing with air bag, and I'll go to dealer or live with problem.
Thanks everyone from a newbie

 

Welcome to the forums.

The following is posted at the top of the New Member Introductions Forum: Welcome! Please introduce yourselves here, BUT ASK FOR HELP IN THE TECHNICAL FORUMS

Since this is a topic/technical issue which will require replies and discussion, this thread has been moved from the New Member Introductions Forum to the model specific forum for better response.

 

Hello! You’re overthinking it. The switch is just broken. It happened to my 05 as well. They use this same switch in a lot of other Hondas, so you can just order a replacement from eBay, remove and disassemble the steering wheel and replace the stem of the switch. It’s a very easy job. Go ahead and clean the contacts for all of the misc buttons while you’re in there since they’re quite old at this point.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...d-pics-499939/

 

I’d add that the main CC switch stays depressed when “on.” It clicks on and clicks off. So the previous post is likely correct, broken switch. As for being an easy job? Sort of. The airbag is a potential bomb that has to be respected. There are ways to deal with it. Watch YouTube for more info. There were also some fasteners that held the steering wheel on that were a bear to remove. Other than that, not to bad.

 

Thanks guys.
SCCRXER -I'm a retired engineer so I have the time and like to overthink things.
MIKE734-I know switch clicked when pressed, but don't remember switch staying depressed, but I believe you. I'll have to think about if I want to work near the airbag "bomb". But for now, the RL, (and everything else) is under 2 feet of snow, so nothing is going to happen fast.
FYI-I searched around and found a service manual for the gen2 RL. It describes diagnostics and has full schematics. You can download at http://www.mediafire.com/file/uxmjw4...IRING.pdf/file

My final overthinking:
The diags describe checking, and schematics show fuse 18 in the driver side fuse box powering the brake switch input to the CC, so it's worth checking out brake switch and fuse before opening anything up.
Diags call out checking fuse 13 under hood that powers the horn as having something to do with CC. Not sure why horn circuit would have anything to do with CC, I don't obviously see it from schematics and horn works so that's not interesting.
Schematics show CC main switch going to a CPU (processor) used for CC processing. It would be dumb engineering to pay extra to have a mechanical latched switch that stays depressed when the CPU could easily do the job free electronically.
Honda does not do dumb engineering. And I've done automotive electronics, and automotive companies are ruthless about saving pennies on car designs, so unless Hona had a bunch of switches to get rid of this doesn't make sense to me.

Anyway, interesting to think about. End of overthinking

 

Well, I also posted a link to a good write up on removing the steering wheel to fix it yourself, but if you’re nervous about the airbag, I understand. Once you unplug it though, it’s perfectly safe. I wouldn’t toss it around like garbage, but in regular handling, it will be just fine. You’re retired, so you’ve got time to let the stealership handle it if you really want to. Knowing them, they’ll charge you for a whole new steering wheel assembly. Could be a good thing if yours is worn out. Assuming there are any available…

If you decide to tackle it yourself, also be mindful of the clock spring. When I did this on mine, my clock spring spilled it’s guts. Fortunately, I was able to get it back together properly and not have to buy a replacement. All has been great ever since.

here is another write up that gave me inspiration and information on how to do this. It’s a TL, but the steps are very similar and this shows you the switch that needs to be taken apart and the stem replaced in it along with the specific part number that you need to buy.