markd27

Well of course this happens at this time of the year for me... It's 105 today and forecast is 109 tomorrow and 106-108 for the rest of the week.

Anyways, my AC has began to work intermittently in my 05 RL @ about 75K miles. It always works fine driving it for the first time of the day after sitting overnight in the garage, but then after driving around it may or may not come back on after turning the engine off for a period of time (like going into the store for 30-45 minutes).

I have read just about every post I could find here on the subject and it seems I may have the faulty stator/clutch issue. I would like to do this DIY with the compressor in the car to save the $500+, but I have been unable to find any specific details, guides, or pictures on how to approach this. Only a few comments/updates from members that have done it successfully. With the engine is running I can see that the clutch is not engaging/turning when there is no cooling and the AC says it's on, as well as it blowing nice and cold when it is engaged.

I should say that I have worked on cars most of my life, have plenty of tools to get the job done, but my RL is the most technically advanced car I've owned as well as being the most cramped in the engine compartment. Bottom line, I don't want to eff anything up or get halfway into it only to find I need a special tool or can't finish the job. If I do this I hope to document the process to give back to the community.

With that said, I do have some specific questions and would greatly appreciate any assistance or input from the folks that have BTDT.

1. Any guides/steps out there on the net that I have missed to help get me started? Looking for steps to remove pieces for access, without damaging anything or removing unnecessary equipment.

2. I have seen references to test the stator for resistance, but not sure specifically where to test and what specs to look for, can anyone point me at a reference for this procedure?

3. Could this issue I have be caused by a bad relay? Where/how do I test these to verify?

4. Any recommendations on specialty tools to make the job easier? I've seen reference to 90 degree snap ring pliers which I have, but I am not opposed to buying any tools that make the job less painful.

Thanks in advance for any feedback or suggestions!

stew160

Markd27, check your messages. I have done this and it can be done. The service manual helps with a drawing and specs on clearance and such.

vletnguyen

iTrader: (1)

Mine just did that also. eventually mine just quit working and blow only warm air ( no longer engaging)
I took it to the dealer to fix and they want over $1g for parts. Of course my warranty ran out before this and the AFS light along with bluetooth module over 3g total for parts.. i told them i'll just pay for diagnosing it and left... still $250 ouch!


Can you pm me also or post it on the thread?

stew160

The electrical field coil seems to be the weak link. If I remember right it was around $80. I replaced it myself. No special tools needed other than larger and longer C-clip pliers and something to hold the pulley when removing the end bolt. I believe I loosened my bolt with the belt on and used it for grip. Service manual is big help.

markd27

Thanks for the advice...

I ordered the stator shipped overnight so I'll give it a shot this weekend. I think I have read a couple posts of folks saying they replaced the clutch as well, but I can't find anything that explains how or why the clutch itself would be bad, everything points to the electrical failure of the filed coil/stator.

I did go back and look at the service manual pdf's on this site and found the diagnostic section, I am going to do my best to go through this process and see how it goes.

Thanks again!

vletnguyen

iTrader: (1)

keep it posted,
do you mind telling me where you got your parts? how much?

thanks...

markd27

Well I got it done yesterday, took about 8 hours including two trips to the store.

It was definitely a pain in the arse, as part of the subframe blocks about half the access to the front of the compressor.

Basically, I removed the passenger side inner wheel well, which includes part of the lower front end cover as well. By far the most awkward and time consuming part was getting the two c-clips off. The holes for c-clips in both cases were aligned facing upwards, so they were really hard to get to, had they been on the left side, would have been much easier. The longer ChannelLock c-clip pliers I bought could have been longer, at one point I was trying to use them from the top of the engine compartment down, but my arm was not long enough. I finally bailed on trying to use the pliers and pried the c-clips off with a flathead screwdriver.

I think I lucked out and once I had the first c-clip off, the pulley came off nice and easy. The second clip which holds the field coil/stator on was more difficult than the first.

The one tool I did not have starting off that I had to go get was a clutch spanner tool, shows it in the service manual. Napa was the only place that had one, for about $25. The field coil I ordered from hondapartsunlimited for $80 + $19 for overnight shipping.

Thanks for all that offered advice, glad it's over with!

markd27

Almost forgot...

Once I had everything back together I had the engine running so I could verify the field coil was engaging. At this time I noticed that the idler pulley is kind of vibrating, bouncing a bit. I have no idea if it was like that before I started, but should there be any movement/vibration of the idler pulley? I'm worried I might have done something to it when I had to remove the serpentine belt.

mrjhnguyen

iTrader: (1)

i had the same problem as you did just last week... stealership didnt even know what was wrong with it until i went to get a second opinion from a mom and pa shop... found out that my clutch was not engaging and only working if it was my first time in the car after a few hours... with that said, the dealer tired to pin a $2,200 price tag just to replace the compressor and listing out every part that is already included with it... asked around and found an a/c shop here in houston that sold the whole unit for under $400... got a shop to install it but still the air isnt as cold as before... but now it seems as if my gears are starting to slip! i would have it in drive and let the brake go and it would take a while until it would roll on its own... FML