Hello my fellow Acura RDX owners. I have had this issue for a while now maybe over the course of 5 months. I’ve changed the trans fluid, to redline, I muzzled the VCM. I went through 3 pairs of tires. I changed the Inner&outer tie rods, and I also just changed the drivers front axle. It’s a little smoother but the floor vibration is still there. Oh and I also changed the u joints on the drive shaft. Currently it’s off the car. I drove it today, and at around 65 - 70 mph the vibrations are there. I’m wondering if changing the ATF to valvoline maxlife like some others did will help any. The other thing I was thinking was the wheel bearings, but I checked them, and they are good! Also the wheels are not bent, the tires are perfect, and the Hunter road force Balancing checked out 100% flawless balance job. Please share your thoughts I greatly appreciate it.

 

You probably have a bent wheel. Think back if you hit a curb or a pothole 5 months ago.

 

Hey Samiam,

I can Guarantee the wheels are not bent, and they are not warped either. I’ve checked personally, and checked professionally with a hunter road force machine. I appreciate the feedback. I am still changing the ATF to valvoline maxlife, and I will change the rear driver side axle to see if it’s a bit more smooth. It’s just so bizarre.

 

fluid wont help a vibration....

you're gonna have to narrow down the culprit....as of right now, it sounds like it could be anything...if you could narrow it down to either the drivetrain or suspension/wheels.

it could be a rotor, it could be a wheel, it could be the drive shaft, it could be literally anything

 

driveshaft is taken out, I had both ujoints replaced. I also changed rotors, and pads with EBC flat faced rotors. Brand new moog inner/outer tie rods. Michelin Prinacy OEM tires that come with the 2017 RDX. Balanced out perfectly, and tire construction is on point. I just recently changed the front left axle to see if it would help. Seems to be a little smoother, but I also bought the axle for the rear left too. If it’s even smoother after then that is most likely the culprit.

 

My money is still on the wheels. I had the same problem and it turned out to be a deformed wheel. A balancer cannot detect that. Diagnosed by process of elimination. Took the spare and kept mounting it on each corner until vibration disappeared.

 

I agree though the fluid won’t help with the vibration, but my thinking is would the Redline ATF I threw in help the transmission be more smooth or would it lock up the torque converter which could essentially cause a vibration you feel on the floor.

 

So in my case it can be more then one deformed wheel. I bought one full OEM reconditioned wheel because my plan was to have a full size spare. I can use that wheel and place it on the drivers side front Or the drivers side rear, and see what happens. A good buddy of mine who owns a reputable shop said the hunter road balancer would pick up if the wheel was out of round. I see what your saying though, it’s worth a shot.

 

My bad wheel wasn't out of round, it was "axially" deformed, meaning one or two spokes got slightly bent inwards. This resulted in the wheel actually slightly changing direction by a few millimeters during every revolution, and, in turn, vibration at highway speed. Very difficult to detect something like that with a balancer.

Vibration through the floor usually means the source is in the rear, otherwise you would likely feel something in the steering wheel as well. Left/right is more difficult to tell by "feel", so I wouldn't limit the problem to just the driver's side.

 

Hey Samiam,

thanks for the input. Visibly to the naked eye I don’t see any spokes bent inward. I guess it’s possible even though you can’t see it doesn’t mean they aren’t bent. So at the moment when I’m hitting 65 on the highway I feel the vibration in the rear mostly since the vibrations are coming through the floorboard. It could be the rear left wheel that needs to be changed. It’s worth me changing the wheel to see before I go forward with anything else

 

Good luck and keep us posted! Nothing more annoying than a vibration on a car that's supposed to have a luxurious ride.

 

I couldn’t agree more! This is bs honestly. The amount of stuff I’ve already done is really annoying me. I will get this wheel swap done at 12 today then I’ll go for a spin after. I’ll update once I get back home.

 

Hey guys just an update. So the rear vibrations are not as bad like before which is great! Now I feel it coming from the front drivers side. I replaced that wheel yesterday with another reconditioned OEM wheel I bought online via parts Geek. I still get a vibration but different. As the wheel was getting balanced on the hunter road force machine I saw that the wheel was not completely rotating smoothly so now I’m thinking a reconditioned wheel can be a hit or miss? I have my buddy who gets them redone for $125 to take bends out and such. I think I’ll go that route with the whee I took off yesterday.

 

Interesting - what are the chances of two wheels having issues!

In my case, I bought a "take-off" wheel on ebay - this was taken off the car when sold new because the buyer upgraded the wheel package. Buying used or reconditioned or on secondary market always has some risk. I lucked out - the wheel I got was absolutely mint.

A good wheel shop should be able to make the wheel close to perfect. Good luck!

 

thanks Samiam, and yes I agree it’s possible a reconditioned wheel off of a site can be a 50/50 shot. I’ll go with my buddy who has a shop do the job to take vends out, and make it like new. I’m heading there today. I’ll update once I have the wheel back.

 

Does this vibration occur at a particular speed point? I had a vibration that occurred on my Accord Coupe V6-6 right around 60 mph; by the time I reached 70 mph, it would disappear.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"I believe that sex is one of the most beautiful, natural, wholesome things that money can buy." -- Steve Marti

 

Hey Dave, and the rest of the Acura family. Hope all is well. I replaced the rear drivers side axle and the vibrations are a little less. I’m thinking I need to do the right side axles now. Dave to answer your question it’s very noticeable around 60-65mph. 70 you can still kind of feel it. It’s so damn weird. I just think doing the right side axles will hope to fully put the vibrations to rest.

 

Yeah; there were a number of others in DriveAccord.net who experienced this, and it seems the only solution was replacing both CV axles. I chose not to, although I did lessen the vibration by replacing a number of front suspension parts, including both struts and both LCMs. Good luck.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"To love is to recognize yourself in another." -- Eckhart Tolle

 

Hello Acura/Honda Family,

ok so here’s an update since my last install lol. Front right axle done. Still a vibration however when moving the car at 5mph and witnessing the engine shift when going from 1st to 2nd gear I believe the front engine Mount is slamming down. I’ve done the test several times, and it’s more pronounced on a hill. I also believe with my knowledge, and experience this can cause vibrations at higher speeds as well. I bought a front engine Mount with the electrical connector. I will be installing it with a buddy of mine tomorrow.

 

Hello everyone. Hope you are all safe, and well. Here’s the update. Front engine Mount was shot but there is still that vibration at 65 mph always seems like it’s coming from the front left. I am starting to think it can be a lower ball joint issue or a bad strut. Can’t hurt to swap out the strut to see. The shaking is also felt in the steering wheel a bit as well which tells me a part that is busted isn’t agreeing with the 65mph speed limit. Also I forgot to mention this car I picked up used to be a lease from a certified Acura stealership lol. Obviously regardless of the point inspection you know there will always be something. I will most likely do the front left strut and check the ball joint. Other then that it’s the wheel bearing, and control arms to look at. I don’t think the issue is with the wheel bearing to be honest you would also hear it. Moog inner&outer tie rods are on there now, and new axles all around expect the rear right side. Also OEM tires with reconditioned wheels all around.