I been trying to figure this out by searching the net, which is likened to the definition of insanity...
This is in regards to our specific engine. How it may or may not apply to a different engine is not what I'm hoping to address.

So I did run across the PDF of the service procedure from the service manual graciously provided by Dave08902.
This manual states to "Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head, finger tight, then tighten the plugs to the specified torque." Specified Torque: (16lbf-ft)
And now for the controversy; Some say; Always use anti-seize on aluminum heads.. Some say; NGK says not to use anti-seize on their Nickel Plated Plugs.. And etc. etc.
Okay; What I have learned from a source that works for Denso, regarding their Nickel Plated Plugs; We don't say specifically not to use anti-seize on our plugs, but that the Torque Specs we provide are for torquing without anti-seize. He said that if you choose to use anti-seize, you will have to determine the proper torque on your own. He said that the torque with anti-seize would obviously be a lower poundage.
Also to note; Regarding the type of Anti-Seize to use.. I don't know which is the best choice, but it make sense to me that a "Nickel Base Anti-Seize" would be compatible with the Nickel Plated threaded portion of the spark plug. In other words, DO NOT use a copper base anti-seize in this application with aluminum heads!!
If anyone can add further clarification on this subject matter, it would likely add value to this thread.

 

as you noted; there are two torque specs...one with anti-seize and one without anti-seize. Follow the torque spec to which ever route you choose...and it is a choice...

The NGK Iridium's say "No anti-seize required", so it's purely up to you if you want to add anti-seize or not.....just follow the recommended torque value to which ever route you go with.


the issue is; the spark plugs like to eject in aluminum blocks. THat is the issue. so you need to use the proper torque spec.

one could also check the threads after every 60k miles or so...this way you know it's not seizing and you could also check if it's tight to where it wont eject

 

Would they be more prone to eject with anti-seize?

 

if you do not use the correct torque setting...yes...
but that applies to not using anti-seize....if incorrect torque setting is applied.... Ejecto seat cuzo

so the main thing is to use the correct torque spec, regardless if you use anti-seize or not

and as you noted; there are two torque specs....

 

Okay, thank you for your insight.

 

13ft-lbs with anti-seize
16ft-lbs without anti-seize.


either way, I would check them in 60k miles to see if they have become loose as heat will loosen them

 

I've think I also ran across the 13ft-lbs with anti-seize somewhere too, but I don't recall where..??
I'm curious as to where you found this spec?
I'm also wondering if the service manual that Dave08902 shared still states to use a "small amount of anti-seize" and torque to 16lbf-lb.?
I'm becoming more inclined to not use anti-seize in hopes that the Nickel Plating does in fact serve the purpose to prevent seizing.
the idea of re-checking at 60k would be prudent.

 

I ran across this while researching the net. I thought it to be worth posting here for consideration, for those who may possibly pull their plugs for checking/reading the plug and re-installing.

"Also very important is not to forget that once you remove a Nickle plated thread spark plug from the engine you have "used up" the anti-seize feature. So it would be a good idea to use a little new paste to coat the threads."