Hi all,
I replaced my small car to this suv, and don't know what's the expectation of AC for RDX. I can feel in a hot summer day, my RDX cools down the car slower than my previous owned. Not sure if it's because it's a AC problem, or just because the interior space is much bigger. I have to set temp. to 60-ish or Lo(west), and make fan blowing loud. Does it looks normal to you guys? Do you adjust temperature quite a lot?

When putting to LO for a while, does the vent become pretty cold that you can feel your hand freezing if you keep there for like 20 seconds? My old car did that, but this one seems not. I've checked the tubs under the hood, there is one Hot tube and one Cold tube, the cold one does feels very icy when operating, so maybe it's just normal for a SUV sized? Thanks in advance.

 

I think the A/C on mine works really well. I do think it's a bit noisy with the setting on Lo / high fan. No complaints. What color is your car? A dark colored car makes a big difference in summer, heating up a lot more in the sun.

 

Why not just take it in to a a service shop and have them check the amount of AC refrigerant in the car? Mine does take some time to cool down, then is too cold and I have to turn the temp back up.

 

It's been over 110F all week here in Phoenix and ours seems to be working fine. When first out of the garage it cools down in just few minutes but if it has sat out in the sun for a while it does take some time to cool down. It helps to open a window or the sun roof for a bit and turn off recirc to help get the super hot air out, then close things up and set it on recirc. After a bit I have to redirect the vent to not blow on my left hand or I'll get frostbite. We've had several cars over the nearly 50 yr we've lived here and the RDX A/C works as well or better than any we've had. If you don't think it's working right, have a good A/C shop check it out.

Of course, 'cool' is relative. For us anything under 80F is cool this time of year...around 70F is downright chilly.

 

You need to tell others some basic facts before you ask question! Model year , mileage, first owner etc. You will get more proper answers with those info. Was the a/c serviced before if it was bought used? The second generation RDX has v6 engine and the a/c is very strong based on experience with 2017 RDX advance (bought brand new).

 

Thanks for reply, I did replace from a small white car to this large navy blue suv, I think you are right, the contrast makes me feel so. It's more like just was a mental thing after read you reply ^_^

 

had been thinking since February, for the longest February ever I stay at home and don't want to go anywhere public.

 

agree, I can recall the day I got the feeling is a really hot day. seems fine these days.

 

I thought this board is for second generation and basically all generation are similar.
ah, wish I replace with the Advance trim now, would like the adaptive cruise and lane keep stuff.

 

If you've got a digital thermometer, stick it in one of the two center vents. On a 100° day, the outlet temperature should be around 50-55° on the highway. I just set the temperature to 70° and put it in AUTO. The system figures out what fan speeds to use all by itself.

 

hmm, that's a good test. will do next time.

 

My rdx 2013 has AC problem, it doesn't blow cold air, what's the best way to check it? I believe the dealer charge $110 for checking?

 

An independent shop will no doubt be cheaper than the dealer. If it's not blowing cold air, you've done about all the checking you can do yourself without gauges, etc. You're going to have to take it somewhere to get the issue diagnosed.

 

Go to Walmart, buy the 134a recharge can with gauge. You can use the gauge to check the low pressure valve on your RDX. It is really simple. There are a lot of YouTube videos to show you how to DIY!

 

My understanding (tell me if I'm wrong) is that those recharge kits are only good for a top off. If you're to the point that it's not blowing cold anymore, you'll need a lot more than that and should check for leaks anyway?

 

Good advice. Refrigerant is not a consumable so if it's low there's a leak somewhere. Plus, the refrigerant also carries oil to lube the compressor so if it's leaking, oil is too. With those kits you don't know how much oil is in the system...too much or not enough are both bad and the only way to know for sure is to evacuate the system and refill from empty. Some A/C pros call them 'suicide kits'...they often end up killing the compressor and can be dangerous to the user if connected incorrectly...there are some high pressures involved in an A/C system.

If you want it done safely, correctly, and legally, take it to a good A/C shop. It might cost a couple hundred $ but it will be worth it in the long run.

 

The current refrigerant is different in that it must be charged exactly. The only way to do that is to pull the existing charge out, pull a vacuum, and weigh in the correct amount. If the is a leak, then the system can suck in moisture, making cooling even harder. I once had a vehicle that had so much moisture in it it would freeze at the expansion valve. A full evacuate, vacuum, & recharge was the only thing that would fix it. Several good ol' boy mechanics had tried.

 

First, you can use the gauge to test the pressure, there is possibility that the only problem is low in freon. Slow leak is common in older vehicle. My Sienna needs to be recharged every three years now (06 model). Secondly, It means that the compressor is still working if it works a little bit after you recharge it.

 

I have noticed that the fan speed changes with the vehicle speed - I don't know how to change this, I want a constant speed no matter what the vehicle speed is. 2016 tech...anybody have ideas how to change this - it's not on AUTO.

 

Not the answer you want, but put it in AUTO and leave it alone if you want it to regulate the temperature. Once it reaches the target, it'll achieve a regular speed except for being modulated by the sun sensor.

 

I would have to experiment a little (because I'm a set it and move the temp up & down type) but I think if you start in auto and then use the right knob to adjust the fan speed, it should stay at that speed.

 

I will play around some more with the AUTO. I was cleaning out the rear seat area (my kids took it to the drive inn a couple weeks ago) and they left the rear seat heaters on - this will do the fan changes (it says so in the manual) - so now I am not sure what caused the fan speed changes, but will get to the bottom of it...seems strange that the fan speed would change with vehicle speed if some kind of AUTO setting was not enabled.

 

The AC in my 2016 RDX is not as cold as other cars that I previously owned. I run an analog thermometer in every vehicle for at least 20 years. My center duct temp is about 45-50 on the hottest day. The coldest system I recall was 1970 Chevelle. Always in the high 30's. But that was a POA expansion valve system with a sight glass. The VERY BEST compressor ever made by Frigidaire for autos.

This one...

It was rated for 5-tons. Enough to cool a house.

The RDX AC is a meager system. It only holds about 1 lbs. of refrigerant. When it starts leaking you will know it very soon. I can do without all the climate control garbage. In fact, lets return to cable operated controls. It's working but it's not a good system. I can do without a clutch cycling orifice tube system. Give me an expansion valve for ALL autos.

 

Curious is OP found anything more. I have a similar problem on my 2013 RDX where it doesn't cool enough on hot days. The car is normally garage parked, but on days it's in the sun, it struggles to cool down sufficiently even on 'Lo' while driving steady on the highway.

Here is a video (google drive link - couldn't make the upload feature work here) of, what I think is, the the AC system cycling on / off repeatedly too fast. It runs for around 7-8 seconds and then shuts of for 3-4 seconds. I can feel the air from the vents change in temperature synced with this cycling behavior, no matter what setting the AC is on. Can anyone tell if this is normal for our model or not?

 

There are not a lot of tinkerers here, but over at the Odyclub there are a lot more, broke with kids and older vehicles.
John Clark is one of the most knowledgeable guys over there. Here is a thread about rapid cycling of the cooling fans:

https://www.odyclub.com/threads/cond.../#post-1751649

You say that the compressor is also cycling rapidly? There are a few failsafes built into the system to keep it from destroying the compressor. I think one of those things is making what you experience happen.
I will look to see if there are any other threads over there that might be germane.

 

Further reading shows that the cycling in your video may be normal for an idling engine. What the video does really show is how the fans are operating.
It is hard to tell if they are changing between slow and fast or just shutting down and then coming on again.

I will emphasize once again how critical the level of charge is with a R134 refrigerant system. Just a little too little will affect cooling. Having too much, like from using
a home recharge kit can work for a little while, but will soon ruin the compressor.

A good thing to do if one has poor cooling is to examine the system carefully for leaks. That can be done by an amature by just looking for wet spots. A common place seems to
be in the lower corner of the condenser by where the line is attached. Others have had the dealer say the valves where you connect gauges can be a source of leaks.

 

Odyclub... I was the 7th member of that group. I joined at the beginning of 2001. Excellent resource!


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Long ago, my dad warned me that it's a dog-eat-dog world. Well, years of experience have led me to believe that it's just the opposite.

 

I have done some playing around, or 'tinkering' - turns out one of my kids put the rear seat heaters on - when you do this, the fan speed changes with vehicle speed, I turned off the seat heaters and it is constant speed - without using auto.

 

Ahh.. the old "seat heaters left on" thing......lol Manufacturers should really have these things reset to OFF when the ignition cycles, or at least have that as an option in settings.
Makes sense with the fan speed varying - the electrical drain from the heaters is affecting it.