How to remove water spots?
#1
How to remove water spots?
Hi guys,
Does anyone have a good recommendation to remove water spots on a car & windshield? I was doing some research online and people recommend to use white vinegar. Has anyone tried?
I park my car outside most of the time, so I always get the bird droppings and then rinse the car to get rip of the bird droppings. I think this is where I get the water spots from.
Does anyone have a good recommendation to remove water spots on a car & windshield? I was doing some research online and people recommend to use white vinegar. Has anyone tried?
I park my car outside most of the time, so I always get the bird droppings and then rinse the car to get rip of the bird droppings. I think this is where I get the water spots from.
#2
This isn't a direct answer to your question, but just a suggestion...
Once you get the water spots off (which might require a clay bar), consider using a product like Rejex (a paint sealant applied twice a year) to minimize spots and damage from hard water, bird droppings, sap, bugs, etc. I just discovered this product after a lot of online research and I'm thrilled with the results on my three cars.
I posted more information about this in the "Waxing Strategy" thread. There are other products that owners like, too, but I prefer a simple easy-to-use strategy that I'll actually be able to follow through on. Waxing once a month just ain't realistic for me.
Once you get the water spots off (which might require a clay bar), consider using a product like Rejex (a paint sealant applied twice a year) to minimize spots and damage from hard water, bird droppings, sap, bugs, etc. I just discovered this product after a lot of online research and I'm thrilled with the results on my three cars.
I posted more information about this in the "Waxing Strategy" thread. There are other products that owners like, too, but I prefer a simple easy-to-use strategy that I'll actually be able to follow through on. Waxing once a month just ain't realistic for me.
#3
This isn't a direct answer to your question, but just a suggestion...
Once you get the water spots off (which might require a clay bar), consider using a product like Rejex (a paint sealant applied twice a year) to minimize spots and damage from hard water, bird droppings, sap, bugs, etc. I just discovered this product after a lot of online research and I'm thrilled with the results on my three cars.
I posted more information about this in the "Waxing Strategy" thread. There are other products that owners like, too, but I prefer a simple easy-to-use strategy that I'll actually be able to follow through on. Waxing once a month just ain't realistic for me.
Once you get the water spots off (which might require a clay bar), consider using a product like Rejex (a paint sealant applied twice a year) to minimize spots and damage from hard water, bird droppings, sap, bugs, etc. I just discovered this product after a lot of online research and I'm thrilled with the results on my three cars.
I posted more information about this in the "Waxing Strategy" thread. There are other products that owners like, too, but I prefer a simple easy-to-use strategy that I'll actually be able to follow through on. Waxing once a month just ain't realistic for me.
#4
I'm pretty sure that a Diamond coating is a sealant, so it would likely have to be reapplied within a year. I haven't been able to find much information about Diamond online. From what I've been able to learn, no sealant will reliably last longer than a year.
If I were in your shoes (or comfortable leather RDX seat), I'd wait until the coating is 9 or 10 months old and then switch to Rejex, following their cleaning instructions first. Applying a sealant on top of a previous sealant shouldn't be a problem as long as you let it cure for 12 to 24 hours. But putting wax on top of a sealant is kind of pointless IMO because wax doesn't adhere well to a sealant.
If you prefer to go the wax route for the life of your RDX, you can wait until the Diamond finish is starting to dull - however long it takes - and then switch to a wax approach. But to keep the paint in new condition, waxing should ideally be done every one or two months (depending how much your car is exposed to the elements). A sealant only needs to be applied twice a year. After much thought, I realized that I'm far more likely to adhere to a twice a year sealant schedule than I would to a monthly waxing schedule.
So far, I'm extremely happy with the results of Rejex -- so happy that I did it on all three of my cars. My '08 black Mazda MX5 looks spectacular and my old '01 Ford Escape looks years younger. I use Rejex on everything but the rubber tires (wheels, trim, lights, even the side and rear windows). For the tires and all interior trim, I use Aerospace 303. For the leather seats, I haven't decided yet but will probably use Leather Master cleaner and conditioner. The most important thing you can do for leather seats is keep them clean, even if it's just with a slightly damp cloth once in awhile. It's dirt and grit that cause most of the wear, according to experts.
Good luck! It's fun having a brand new car and caring for it the right way from the very start. I figure that almost any strategy will work as long as it's consistently used.
If I were in your shoes (or comfortable leather RDX seat), I'd wait until the coating is 9 or 10 months old and then switch to Rejex, following their cleaning instructions first. Applying a sealant on top of a previous sealant shouldn't be a problem as long as you let it cure for 12 to 24 hours. But putting wax on top of a sealant is kind of pointless IMO because wax doesn't adhere well to a sealant.
If you prefer to go the wax route for the life of your RDX, you can wait until the Diamond finish is starting to dull - however long it takes - and then switch to a wax approach. But to keep the paint in new condition, waxing should ideally be done every one or two months (depending how much your car is exposed to the elements). A sealant only needs to be applied twice a year. After much thought, I realized that I'm far more likely to adhere to a twice a year sealant schedule than I would to a monthly waxing schedule.
So far, I'm extremely happy with the results of Rejex -- so happy that I did it on all three of my cars. My '08 black Mazda MX5 looks spectacular and my old '01 Ford Escape looks years younger. I use Rejex on everything but the rubber tires (wheels, trim, lights, even the side and rear windows). For the tires and all interior trim, I use Aerospace 303. For the leather seats, I haven't decided yet but will probably use Leather Master cleaner and conditioner. The most important thing you can do for leather seats is keep them clean, even if it's just with a slightly damp cloth once in awhile. It's dirt and grit that cause most of the wear, according to experts.
Good luck! It's fun having a brand new car and caring for it the right way from the very start. I figure that almost any strategy will work as long as it's consistently used.
#6
I did some research on the Diamond coating. It may just be a paint sealer or it could be a "hard" film similar to another layer of clear coat.
If the spots won't come off with a normal wash, you will need a more severe treatment. Clay or a prewax cleaner will most likely work. BUT, you will then need to apply wax or paint sealer since these treatments remove all old wax, road grime, spots, etc.
Good luck, Jim
If the spots won't come off with a normal wash, you will need a more severe treatment. Clay or a prewax cleaner will most likely work. BUT, you will then need to apply wax or paint sealer since these treatments remove all old wax, road grime, spots, etc.
Good luck, Jim
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#9
I had serious water spot problems on my tsx/z4, even had windshield replaced and it's still an issue after a few weeks of driving.
I can tell you this thing is the best http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html
I was recommended A-Maz @ http://www.a-maz.com/ - Does not work as well as ceri
was also recommended Duragloss nu-glass - @ http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-nu-glass.html
Also does not work as well..
The only issue is that you will need to clean the glass at least once a month. I just did my cleaning 2 days ago and it was nice and clear during todays' big ass storm..
Dont bother with clay, vinegar, lemon acid, etc, etc.. i tried, it removes jack squat
--
After ceriglass
I can tell you this thing is the best http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html
I was recommended A-Maz @ http://www.a-maz.com/ - Does not work as well as ceri
was also recommended Duragloss nu-glass - @ http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-nu-glass.html
Also does not work as well..
The only issue is that you will need to clean the glass at least once a month. I just did my cleaning 2 days ago and it was nice and clear during todays' big ass storm..
Dont bother with clay, vinegar, lemon acid, etc, etc.. i tried, it removes jack squat
--
After ceriglass
The following users liked this post:
weather (08-16-2012)
#12
I had serious water spot problems on my tsx/z4, even had windshield replaced and it's still an issue after a few weeks of driving.
I can tell you this thing is the best http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html
I was recommended A-Maz @ http://www.a-maz.com/ - Does not work as well as ceri
was also recommended Duragloss nu-glass - @ http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-nu-glass.html
Also does not work as well..
The only issue is that you will need to clean the glass at least once a month. I just did my cleaning 2 days ago and it was nice and clear during todays' big ass storm..
Dont bother with clay, vinegar, lemon acid, etc, etc.. i tried, it removes jack squat
--
After ceriglass
I can tell you this thing is the best http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html
I was recommended A-Maz @ http://www.a-maz.com/ - Does not work as well as ceri
was also recommended Duragloss nu-glass - @ http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-nu-glass.html
Also does not work as well..
The only issue is that you will need to clean the glass at least once a month. I just did my cleaning 2 days ago and it was nice and clear during todays' big ass storm..
Dont bother with clay, vinegar, lemon acid, etc, etc.. i tried, it removes jack squat
--
After ceriglass
#13
Great experiment!
Heres the paint cleanser I was talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/S100-Shine-Enh...I3FYWXU0MMQE2R
Heres the paint cleanser I was talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/S100-Shine-Enh...I3FYWXU0MMQE2R
#14
The ceriglass I use by hand, there's a youtube video here,
if you use a polisher or stuff, it'll be better, im gonna get one of those dual action orbiter soon because its very tiring on the hand. I gotta re-clean it almost every month.. The glass place says its from all the driving + rain + natural environment stuff that causes it.
It was extremely dangerous to drive because in the heavy rain, i can't see anything...
#15
Have you tried wax, a clay bar or polisher? Those are the most simple/effective for the paint/body along w a buffer. As far as the glass is concerned have you tried some good glass cleaner (Windex or something from auto zone) and newspaper to wipe/clean it off?
#17
I dont wax my car, i take it to a detailer, i suck at these things.
The ceriglass I use by hand, there's a youtube video here,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=165AgiKEmW4
if you use a polisher or stuff, it'll be better, im gonna get one of those dual action orbiter soon because its very tiring on the hand. I gotta re-clean it almost every month.. The glass place says its from all the driving + rain + natural environment stuff that causes it.
It was extremely dangerous to drive because in the heavy rain, i can't see anything...
The ceriglass I use by hand, there's a youtube video here,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=165AgiKEmW4
if you use a polisher or stuff, it'll be better, im gonna get one of those dual action orbiter soon because its very tiring on the hand. I gotta re-clean it almost every month.. The glass place says its from all the driving + rain + natural environment stuff that causes it.
It was extremely dangerous to drive because in the heavy rain, i can't see anything...
What kind of applicator do you use by hand?
#18
I use this cobra thing I got from some place. I had a friend tested it and he uses this soft rubber thing and it seems to work better. I do want to get one of these dual action polisher thing like the video, hand gets tire fast.
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