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Did you know you can get very high MPG (in highway) from your RDX by doing some simple stuff? Here are some tips:
1) Use full synthetic Mobil-1 oil every 5K miles;
2) On a regular basis take the air filter out and clean it by a blower;
3) Make sure you replace the spark plugs (NKG brand) every 45K-50K miles;
4) Use a bottle of Techron every 3K miles to keep the injectors clean;
5) Use the cruise on long distance and avoid frequent accelerations;
6) Avoid speeds higher than 70-75 MPH. The higher speed, the higher wind resistance and thus the higher fuel consumption.
Here's a picture of my base RDX 2015. I often get 33 MPG out of it.
I'm always more concerned about the time savings compared to gas savings in the southwest since most trips are 3-12hrs long. I can save several hours at 80-85 mph compared to 70-75 mph. I also have a Sam's and Costco cards and the gas prices savings of 5-20 cents per gallon there can make up for the higher speeds compared to most off the hwy gas stations.
I would think if you did 5 & 6 alone you would get that kind of mileage. Others report similar RDX highway figures if you keep the speeds down.
Definitely not! If the spark plugs are old, if the air filter is not clean enough, if O2 sensor is not functioning properly, if MAF sensor is not good, if the throttle body is not aligned, if injectors are clogged then you surely won't good MPG.
Speed and cruise are part of the human controlled factors while others are physical/mechanical factors.
At what point does your "mpg's" offset the extra price you pay for the extraneous parts, oil, etc. etc.? You're doing spark plugs twice as often, replacing oil twice as quickly. You're not taking that into account for the 'gas savings' All that savings is negated because you've now spent that money on parts. Also the time needed to do all that.
OK if you can manage ticket-free trips at those speeds then go for it by all means but I personally seldom exceed 70 mph which gives me safe control of the car and enough time to respond to unexpected events (25 years accident- and ticket free).
At what point does your "mpg's" offset the extra price you pay for the extraneous parts, oil, etc. etc.? You're doing spark plugs twice as often, replacing oil twice as quickly. You're not taking that into account for the 'gas savings' All that savings is negated because you've now spent that money on parts. Also the time needed to do all that. MPG's are only half the equation in this case.
Evidently you haven't got the point yet. Changing the vital components and fluids like spark plugs, engine oil, air filter, tranny oil on reasonable (not recommended) intervals only adds to longevity and reliability of the car.
The recommended change interval for RDX spark plugs is noted at 100K+ miles. OK wait until then and take them out and see in what conditions they traffic. At those conditions the engine is running but not at its optimal spec.
Evidently you haven't got the point yet. Changing the vital components and fluids like spark plugs, engine oil, air filter, tranny oil on reasonable (not recommended) intervals only adds to longevity and reliability of the car.
So was the point, "saving money by maximizing MPG's"? or was it saving money in general? Because the former isn't necessarily the latter in your case. So at what point does cost savings at the pump outweigh cost savings overall. Unless money wasn't the point at all..
Sure no shit, throwing new parts on a car will help it work more efficiently, I call bullshit on the 'longevity and reliability of the car' reference though. But hey, it's your car, your money and your peace of mind. You must have some automotive engineering experience that far exceeds Honda's engineers so who am I but a lowly Internet peon to question that.
Originally Posted by emry
The recommended change interval for RDX spark plugs is noted at 100K+ miles. OK wait until then and take them out and see in what conditions they traffic. At those conditions the engine is running but not at its optimal spec.
So was the point, "saving money by maximizing MPG's"? or was it saving money in general? Because the former isn't necessarily the latter in your case. So at what point does cost savings at the pump outweigh cost savings overall. Unless money wasn't the point at all..
Sure no shit, throwing new parts on a car will help it work more efficiently, I call bullshit on the 'longevity and reliability of the car' reference though. But hey, it's your car, your money and your peace of mind. You must have some automotive engineering experience that far exceeds Honda's engineers so who am I but a lowly Internet peon to question that.
1) Using foul language is against the rules and etiquette enforced in this public forum
2) No one stated or claimed anything about part vs. gas expense offset here. It is merely stating getting higher MPG fro RDX.
3) As you mentioned yourself, you seem not having basic knowledge about how cars function or otherwise you wouldn't have question the reliability of cars with on-time replacement of their critical components.
1) Using foul language is against the rules and etiquette enforced in this public forum
2) No one stated or claimed anything about part vs. gas expense offset here. It is merely stating getting higher MPG fro RDX.
3) As you mentioned yourself, you seem not having basic knowledge about how cars function or otherwise you wouldn't have question the reliability of cars with on-time replacement of their critical components.
1. sorry i'm new here
2. got it, so you're only looking at it from one perspective tunnel vision
3. on time is not the same as premature.. What i'm proposing is that you're unnecessarily changing parts and suggesting to others to do the same. Timing belts are suggested to last til 105K. By your logic, you should replace it at 50K at the same time? Brake fluid is every 3 years, should you replace it every year? Brake pads? coolant? etc.?
Please enlighten us plebes with your plethora of knowledge
on time is not the same as premature.. What i'm proposing is that you're unnecessarily changing parts and suggesting to others to do the same.
Timing belts are suggested to last til 105K. By your logic, you should replace it at 50K at the same time? Brake fluid is every 3 years, should you replace it every year? Brake pads? coolant? etc.?
I have not suggested any changing intervals for any of these fluids/parts you are suggesting. The average life time of timing belt/water pump is 7 years of 80K miles.
Can you go up to 150K miles with the factory installed timing belt? Yes perhaps but you are playing the Russian Rulette.
No one is suggesting premature parts change here, at least not me. But prevention is better than cure. I, for one, will change the timing belt and water pump at 80K miles and won't go with the recommended 110K miles.
I rather change it prematurely (in your terms!) than facing sudden death of the bend valves in the middle of no where due to torn timing belt.
OK if you can manage ticket-free trips at those speeds then go for it by all means but I personally seldom exceed 70 mph which gives me safe control of the car and enough time to respond to unexpected events (25 years accident- and ticket free).
The speed limit is 75 mph in the most of the southwest and 80 mph in some parts of southern TX. Cops leave you alone 5 miles over those limits. They start to mess with you 10-15 mph over the posted speed limit. I've been driving 30 years in the west and southwest with zero speeding tickets.
I don't think it should be about saving gas; but, saving money. My 11 MDX and 08 RDX get crappy mpgs compared to the current gen RDX and MDX. I could only get +30 mpg if I'm getting towed. Both my cars are paid for, trouble free, and run like a top compared to having a car payment for two new(er) vehicles. I'm really saving $1000 per month with two used vehicles and cheaper insurance compared to something newer. I used the saving to purchase a RadRover ebike and use that for fun and commute to work 3-4 times a week.
I have not suggested any changing intervals for any of these fluids/parts you are suggesting.
*ahem*
Originally Posted by emry
1) Use full synthetic Mobil-1 oil every 5K miles;
2) On a regular basis take the air filter out and clean it by a blower;
3) Make sure you replace the spark plugs (NKG brand) every 45K-50K miles;
4) Use a bottle of Techron every 3K miles to keep the injectors clean;
1. Mobil 1 can last up to 10,000 miles. Have you ever done a Used Oil Analysis to see if there's any benefit to replacing your oil at 5K?
2. free, i'll give you this one
3. Spark Plugs are generally replaced at the 105K service (with timing belt)
4. Unnecessary if you're using top tier quality premium gas
Originally Posted by emry
The average life time of timing belt/water pump is 7 years of 80K miles.
it's 7 years or 105K miles when the maintenance minder typically comes on.
Originally Posted by emry
I rather change it prematurely (in your terms!) than facing sudden death of the bend valves in the middle of no where due to torn timing belt.
more power to you!
Again, I'll reiterate, if the point of your thread is to simply increase MPG without taking into account any costs, then sure, this can/will work. But we all don't have unlimited cash flows...
Originally Posted by mrgold35
I don't think it should be about saving gas; but, saving money. My 11 MDX and 08 RDX get crappy mpgs compared to the current gen RDX and MDX. I could only get +30 mpg if I'm getting towed. Both my cars are paid for, trouble free, and run like a top compared to having a car payment for two new(er) vehicles. I'm really saving $1000 per month with two used vehicles and cheaper insurance compared to something newer. I used the saving to purchase a RadRover ebike and use that for fun and commute to work 3-4 times a week.
Mobil 1 can last up to 10,000 miles. Have you ever done a Used Oil Analysis to see if there's any benefit to replacing your oil at 5K?
ّI am hesitant to reply to your claims because they obviously come due to lack of knowledge. The answer is a No the Mobil 1 does not last 10K miles. Lasting of oil depends on the operating condition of the engine not what is written on the oil jar. At the highway speeds the engine temperature rises significantly. The extreme heath changing the molecular fabric of the oil and deteriorates its viscosity and lubrication property. In addition to mileage and engine heath, the engine oil also absorbs ambient moisture over the course of several months. Thus even if the car has not been driven enough, the oil still needs to be changed. Thus your 10K oil change interval myth is busted.
Originally Posted by thoiboi
Spark Plugs are generally replaced at the 105K service (with timing belt)
RDX is using either NGK or Denso spark plugs. The effective life time of these plugs is around 45K-50K miles. This doesn;t, however, mean that the plugs won't fire but rather their fire quality deteriorates making the engine not function as it should. Loss of power, cylinder misfiers are two common symptoms of old plugs. Yes!!! the car still cranks and runs but not as efficient and powerful as it should. Thus, you change your plugs at 105K miles and good luck with it but don't recommend to others to do the same.
Originally Posted by thoiboi
Unnecessary if you're using top tier quality premium gas
Not correct again. Many of the premium gas suppliers mix ethanol in their gas. This cause moisture absorption and ultimately (over time) carbon deposits in the cylinder chamber because of not perfect burns of gas. The carbon also get to the injector nozzles and make them clogged up resulting to loss of power.
Originally Posted by thoiboi
it's 7 years or 105K miles when the maintenance minder typically comes on.
What if someone hasn't driven 105K miles in 7 years? I stop here and let you play your Russian Roulette.
Originally Posted by thoiboi
Again, I'll reiterate, if the point of your thread is to simply increase MPG without taking into account any costs, then sure, this can/will work. But we all don't have unlimited cash flows...
The aim of thread is no only saving money in gas but also busting myths around critical preventive maintenance. Saving cost on preventive maintenance means simply a very expensive adventure. Go figure.
The speed limit is 75 mph in the most of the southwest and 80 mph in some parts of southern TX.
So you're safe in terms of tickets at those limits but to me personally I prefer to keep the car more under control at a bit lower speeds. Driving habits are different though.
Originally Posted by mrgold35
I used the saving to purchase a RadRover ebike and use that for fun and commute to work 3-4 times a week.
I've been thinking for sometime to get an e-bike but here in Michigan whether sucks 9 months a year. So I'm postponing it until I move to another state like AZ, NV, TX.
I've been thinking for sometime to get an e-bike but here in Michigan whether sucks 9 months a year. So I'm postponing it until I move to another state like AZ, NV, TX.
The RadRover from Rad Power Bikes has 4" fat tires and a lot of folks use them year round for fun and commute to work in snow country. They even make snow chain and tires with studs for fat tire bikes.
The RadRover from Rad Power Bikes has 4" fat tires and a lot of folks use them year round for fun and commute to work in snow country. They even make snow chain and tires with studs for fat tire bikes.
Well, it get near 0 in Michigan during winter time. Not sure I want to ride a bike in that kindda temp. But I am gonna explore it for the Spring time. I'm sure it's worth of money and of course fun in good weather. Thanks for the info.
Definitely not! If the spark plugs are old, if the air filter is not clean enough, if O2 sensor is not functioning properly, if MAF sensor is not good, if the throttle body is not aligned, if injectors are clogged then you surely won't good MPG.
Speed and cruise are part of the human controlled factors while others are physical/mechanical factors.
I will say this for you emry, you are confident. Unless you have scientific data proving your statements, you don't have much proof. Everything you have stated as "fact" is pure speculation. I don't see a lot of others coming to your side in the thread. If you want to change full synthetic oil at 5k, be my guest. Same goes for doing the spark plugs at half the recommended interval. This doesn't make it gospel though. Just your opinion....
I will say this for you emry, you are confident. Unless you have scientific data proving your statements, you don't have much proof. Everything you have stated as "fact" is pure speculation. I don't see a lot of others coming to your side in the thread. If you want to change full synthetic oil at 5k, be my guest. Same goes for doing the spark plugs at half the recommended interval. This doesn't make it gospel though. Just your opinion....
My confidence comes from 30 years of knowledge gathered by experience in repair and maintenance of the cars in addition to education through many different sources (where's your comes from?).
You change the full synth oil at 5K miles or 4 months whichever comes first because of the reasons I have explained in posts above. In addition, I posted a document about engine oil but apparently you haven't even opened it let alone studying it. Otherwise you wouldn't make such statement that oil should not be changed every 5K miles. Yes you can change your oil every 30K miles if you like but whether your engine will last long is another matter which you are not interested in.
The high engine temperatures especially in highway drives deteriorates the molecular fabric of the engine oil. The synth oils are more resistance to heath and they last longer (i.e, 5K miles versus regular oil that lasts 3K miles).
So, if you have credible evidence or reference that refutes me then I like to see them. Otherwise, I take your statements as your opinions.
I think the suggestions made are awesome but I think it's more geared toward just good practice and maintenance...
I think you might still get that kinda mileage under the right circumstances. I'm one for changing things before they're a problem though too so I can appreciate it.
plus, if you drive "in" the highway, pretty sure you don't have to deal with wind resistance etc.
Actually, the wind resistance grows exponentially with speed. In other words, the wind resistance at 70 mph is far more than it would be at 80 mph. Needless to say, the higher wind resistance the higher fuel consumption.
Actually, the wind resistance grows exponentially with speed. In other words, the wind resistance at 70 mph is far more than it would be at 80 mph. Needless to say, the higher wind resistance the higher fuel consumption.
I feel like every question asked was answered by SIRI. Way to in depth, no credible sources, and quite useless information. If money isn't an issue, sure I would change my oil, plugs, filter, etc at those intervals. Honestly the cost to do this compared to the cost in return is very minimal if you did this at normal intervals. Sounds like a waste of money/time to me.
Evidently you haven't got the point yet. Changing the vital components and fluids like spark plugs, engine oil, air filter, tranny oil on reasonable (not recommended) intervals only adds to longevity and reliability of the car.
The recommended change interval for RDX spark plugs is noted at 100K+ miles. OK wait until then and take them out and see in what conditions they traffic. At those conditions the engine is running but not at its optimal spec.
You do realize that many of us do our own maintenance and have pulled our plugs to see there is no issue with them, right?
I too am not sure what you're gaining by spending extra money. As mentioned, others are able to get very similar MPG numbers as you without visiting the dealership every 6 weeks.
I get it. It's your new baby and you want her to last and you only want the best for her. Many of us have been there. You eventually realize all you're doing is emptying your wallet faster.
Actually, the wind resistance grows exponentially with speed. In other words, the wind resistance at 70 mph is far more than it would be at 80 mph. Needless to say, the higher wind resistance the higher fuel consumption.
QUOTE of the year! Clearly my engineering degree (and everyone elses) isn't worth shit. Thanks for teaching us!
I'm scared to know what the wind resistance will be as I approach 0mph. I'm too scared to find out though!
10-18-2016, 07:19 PM
tunnel vision
