Can't remove a spark plug
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 32
You are right. I also feel the thread is kiddda hijacked. Not a good thing. I wouldn't like if someone did the same thing in my thread.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 197
Likes: 61
Yeah I'd like to know as well...Just a thought pulling the valve cover might help expose the cause of the issue?
alexmed2002
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 679
Likes: 194
From: Massachusetts
The takata airbag issue affected a bunch of manufacturers (Acura, BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Honda, Mazda, etc.). It was an issue on my family when they had Subarus too. That's all I'm gonna say and not hijack the thread anymore lmao.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 170
Likes: 37
From: Greater Chicago
Remember this is just a recommendation. Acura also recommends the timing belt to be changed at 105K miles. Your belt may not snap even to 200K miles or it may does so at 90K miles. The question is do you want to wait till the last second and when it happens to go for the repair. The discussion here was whether is a good practice to replace plugs early for better performance not that new plugs can't go up to 100K miles. Read my earlier posts. I said your plugs may also work up to 300K miles but do they work properly. That was my question and I haven't seen independent studies to prove that. If you come across such studies post here and I read it.
If we just go by "feeling good" you could also go with your plugs past way 105K recommended by Acura since not replacing them and spending on them naturally feels good. Why would you change them at 105K miles if they still work in your books?
If we just go by "feeling good" you could also go with your plugs past way 105K recommended by Acura since not replacing them and spending on them naturally feels good. Why would you change them at 105K miles if they still work in your books?
It appears that we may highjacked the thread, so let’s stop our back-forth. You have you opinion and I, with many others have mine. Let’s leave it at this.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 184
Likes: 28
I had trouble getting the socket to sit on the plug and grab it. I have to push down hard.
I did get an endoscope to look in at the plug after removing the ignition coil. I couldn't see what if anything is preventing the socket from grabbing the plug.
It seemed rusted at the bottom. Sprayed penetrating oil. Saw some bubbles. Tried again after 30 minutes. No dice.
Was able to remove plugs in cylinders 2-6 with no trouble and replace them.
This stuck plug has about 100k miles on it. May be a bit more.
I am going to get a mechanic work on it tomorrow. Previously another mechanic refused to work on spark plugs because I told him I couldn't get it out.
Praying it won't strip the threads or break off.
Last edited by wallmike; Aug 17, 2025 at 06:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 184
Likes: 28
Found the problem. It seems a black rubber boot from inside the socket got onto the plug and is preventing socket from sliding all the way down and grabbing onto the plug.
Tried to pull it off the plug with a thin screwdriver. Won't come out.
I have to get one of those dentist cleaning tools with really sharp edges and retry.
Tried to pull it off the plug with a thin screwdriver. Won't come out.
I have to get one of those dentist cleaning tools with really sharp edges and retry.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 479
Likes: 140
Found the problem. It seems a black rubber boot from inside the socket got onto the plug and is preventing socket from sliding all the way down and grabbing onto the plug.
Tried to pull it off the plug with a thin screwdriver. Won't come out.
I have to get one of those dentist cleaning tools with really sharp edges and retry.
Tried to pull it off the plug with a thin screwdriver. Won't come out.
I have to get one of those dentist cleaning tools with really sharp edges and retry.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 184
Likes: 28
I finally got a photo.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 140
Likes: 59
The rubber section of the spark plug removal socket is supposed to grab the porcelain section of the plug to pull it out after you unscrew it. If it's still down there, how did you get the coil back on and drive it for over a year?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 323
Likes: 91
That rubber part has been on there so long that I betting it's about melted onto the head and plug itself. Your going to need to figure away to cut it off and out of there and will take some time.
What ever you do, make sure you DO NOT try to remove that plug with a hot engine. Remove the plug when the engine is stone cold. Removing a spark plug on a hot engine
with aluminum head is a great way to strip the threads and then have to install a time- sert . Good Luck !
PS
You might try using some brake cleaner and see if that might make the rubber part melt some and make it more ply-able to remove a bit easier , but you do have to contend
with what the heat has done to that bugger.
What ever you do, make sure you DO NOT try to remove that plug with a hot engine. Remove the plug when the engine is stone cold. Removing a spark plug on a hot engine
with aluminum head is a great way to strip the threads and then have to install a time- sert . Good Luck !
PS
You might try using some brake cleaner and see if that might make the rubber part melt some and make it more ply-able to remove a bit easier , but you do have to contend
with what the heat has done to that bugger.
Last edited by Poolman; Aug 21, 2025 at 03:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 184
Likes: 28
I tried long tweezers. No luck. Pick tool. Nope. Bought really thin hacksaw blade. Will try to cut it and then remove with tweezers.
It is not easy working with the awkward location of the cylinder.
It is not easy working with the awkward location of the cylinder.
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