Just got my 2018 RDX back from the dealer, 100,000 mi service. I had them replace the timing belt water pump etc, they also told me my oil pump was leaking and that needed to be replaced as well.

Can anyone tell me what the 'labor books' quote for additional hours to remove the oil pump, once the timing belt and water pump have been removed? I was sick as a dog when I picked it up didn't look at the invoice very close but they charged me a boatload for the oil pump R&R, which I assume should only have been a couple more hours once everything else was out.

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

 

how much did they charge and how many hours?

 

Show a picture of the invoice, less your private data, so it can be reviewed to see the extent of all oil pump repairs?
I'd think if they had to drop the oil pan and reseal it to the lower oil pump area, that would encompass the 'boatload' of R&R labor?
That and the fact you are paying the dealer retail for any replacement components / supplies, whatever they may be.

 

Thanks guys here's a copy of the page of the invoice that shows the cost for the oil pump $1100 of labor, Plus the cost of their timing belt kit which was 1699. And included $1,000 of labor. Again when I spoke to the service advisor about replacing the oil pump, I had in my mind that it'd be maybe 2 to 3 hours since everything was already broken down. My bad for not really understanding what they charge me but I was not feeling good and needed to get out of there when I picked up my car.

Anyway, if

someone can tell me what the reasonable amount of hours is for that work, I'd like to know that before I start bitching at them.

 

If you try to do well, then all this job can be done in under 7 hours; if you're in a hurry, you can do it in 5hours (better not to rush so you don't have to redo it again), but $2850 for this job and several timing belt components is certainly a success.
Please note, no one replaced the pump, they just replaced the $10 gasket.
The book gives less than 6 hours

 

OP, I understand your concern in regards to reasonable 'labor' hour charges, for the 'while you are there' oil pump reseal during the TB replacement; however, that is only half of the story.

Just get a look at the dealer 'mark-up' between the 'special' pricing ($1,699.95 with labor) of the TB components & the 'regular' ($1,949.95 with labor) on some of the essential timing belt components in comparison to the same parts from RockAuto.

This does not even include the timing belt adjuster pulley or timing belt idler pulley.

One would think, perhaps, the OEM parts were gold plated, lol.

OEM versus comparable RockAuto prices, respectively.

 

As a data point for comparison, when my daughter took our 13 RDX to an Acura dealership in Atlanta recently for an alternator replacement..."oil pump gasket replacement" was on the list of all the other items the dealership suggested the car needed. No labor hours were listed in the quote of $2350. So it appears you may have gotten a discount in comparison to the quote I was given. And no, TB replacement was not on the dealer's list of suggested items.

 

How many miles did the car make it to before needing this replaced?

 

So here's a thread where I outlined $8k of extras the dealership "found" when my daughter took our 13 RDX in for an alternator replacement. You may find it interesting / informative -or- possibly even a cautionary tale - Acura Dealership Finds $8k in Additional Needed Repairs

Long story short, the 13 RDX has a little over 240k miles. I'm a DIY'er with regard to maintenance and minor repairs. I have never seen any evidence of an oil leak with the vehicle. Period. Yet, there were 2 oil leak related items on the list the dealership returned in addition to the requested alternator replacement.
Spool valve gasket - $615
Oil pump gasket - $2350

I decided to replace the spool valve gasket myself for a <$10 gasket kit and 30 minutes of my time. Again, no evidence it was leaking, but it was cheap and easy to do.
I declined to have the oil pump gasket replaced

Other work on the list I performed:
Rear Shocks: dealership $1824.29 - me $165 (rock auto)
Front sway bar end links: dealership $664.24 - me $37.50 (rock auto)

Any other work on the list I deemed unnecessary, or it'll get to it on my maintenance schedule.

Bottom line, know your car, whether you do your own maintenance or not. It's shameful one has to be "on guard," but if the dealership proposes (expensive) work you're uncertain of...you don't have to make an immediate decision. Take a few hours to do some research and make an informed decision whether you have them do the work or decline. One other thing...find an honest, dependable and competent independent mechanic. You'll have peace of mind and your wallet will thank you. Good luck.

 

240k miles! wow good for you. @ 40k the A/C compressor switch went out (2 holes) and they want $1k to fix it...

 

I decided not to create a new topic and used this one for a related question.
I went to an Acura dealership a few days ago, they found an oil pump leak. I double checked it and it looked like they were right. Their offer was ~$3000 for timing belt, water and oil pumps.
Now I am exploring my options. First of all, I would like to figure out what parts need to be replaces, I came up with this list:Belt, Timing - 14400-RCA-A01 - $121*
Tensioner, Timing Belt Auto - 14520-RCA-A01 - $204*
Adjuster, Timing Belt - 14510-RCA-A01 - $99*
Idler, Timing Belt - 14550-RCA-A01 - $63*
Water Pump - 19200-RDV-J01 - $185*
* Can be replaced with Aisin TKH002 - $187

Pump Assy., Oil - 15100-5G0-A01 - $63
O-ring for Strainer, Oil - 15221-RYE-A01 - $4
Gasket, Oil Filter Base (housing) - 15302-5G0-A00 - $8
O-ring (10.2X1.9) for oil pressure sensor - 91319-R70-A01 - $1
Oil Seal (39X53X8) for Camshaft x 2 - 91213-R70-A02 - $20
Filter, Oil - 15400-RTA-003 - $7
Washer, Drain Plug (14MM) - 94109-14000 - $1
Belt, Alternator - 31110-5G0-A01 - $47
Oil+coolant
Do I need to add anything else?
I am going to reach out to a few local shops who works on Hondas/Acuras, how much should that kind of work cost?

 

Funny Honda pricing when a rubber-fabric belt costs as much as 2 oil pumps.
The oil pump isn't necessarily replaced, but it's cheap, so it's up to you.
I'd use a BANDO 6PK1190 serpentine belt, $10 on Rоkauto or $15 on Amazon.
Don't touch the camshaft seals if they are dry.
The price for such labor is in the range of $700-1500

 

In another post you indicated that your 17 RDX has ~130k miles...it should've had the TB service performed by now. Do you know one way or the other if the TB service has been performed?

The Aisin TB kit is complete and contains OEM quality (if not true OEM) parts.
I'd add a set of spark plugs, which are typically replaced with the TB service...unless you know they've been replaced recently.
Just me, but I'd also replace the VTEC Spool valve gasket...just because it can be a point for an oil leak, it's super easy to replace and it's cheap.
I also agree on the Bando serpentine belt from RockAuto...along with the Aisin TB kit and spark plugs

 

The oil pump and the serpentine belt are cheap relatively to the whole project, I don't see a reason to take a risk here.

Can you explain why? Would not it be right to preemptively replace them?

Thanks for the info.

 

You are correct most likely the TB service has been performed at 100k miles but I bought the vehicle a few weeks ago and could not get any service records if it was done and when. Even if I knew that it was replaced 30k miles ago, it's better to spend extra $187 do it again and forget about it.

Ok, I will add them too.

Can you give me the part number or a screenshot what this is and where it is located?

Ok, I will think about it, thanks.

 

Should be Honda part #'s 15815-R70-A01 and 15845R70A01, though I bought and installed the full kit from RockAuto...no issues.

The VTEC solenoid sits above the alternator and can leak onto the alternator...potentially causing its early demise.

The video below is not an RDX, but in the same place, same procedure, nonetheless

​​​​​​

 

Just to clarify for other people who will read this topic, BANDO 6PK1190 is for RDX 2013-2015, for RDX 2016-2018 it should be used BANDO 6PK1170

Hmm.., I could not find them in the OEM parts catalog (2017 Acura RDX), what RockAuto kit are they included in?

 

My fault, I chose the wrong year.
I have seen these seals leak only after replacement, but I have never seen them leak in the original.

 

Honda wants to make money on the whole valve instead of selling you just the gaskets.

 

So I thought I gave you 2 good part #'s for the spool valve gaskets for the 2017...that may not be the case. Altair47 is correct in that it looks like the Honda / Acura doesn't list the gaskets separately and RockAuto doesn't list the gasket kits past 2015 models. I have a 2013 and 2018 RDX...looks like Acura changed the spool valve assembly in 2016. So, in sum, you're probably better off to leave the spool valve assembly alone...unless it's actively leaking.

 

Thank you everybody, a few more questions.
Here is my updated part list:

1. Is 4.5qt of oil enough or when the oil pan is dropped it needs more than 4.5qt?
2. What oil pan sealant does Honda recommend to use?
3. What spark plugs are recommended to use? Should I choose between NGK ILZKR7B11 and DENSO SXU22HCR11S?

 

One more, do I need to replace something else related to the serpentine belt?

 

Should be...but as always, add up to the top line on the dipstick
No idea...
Coin flip...both are recommended in the manual. I can't remember which was factory installed in my 2013...my 2018 is not yet due for TB service
Just the belt...

 

First-gen RDX shop manual calls for Hondabond or Ultra Flange Sealant. I'd guess it's the same for second-gen RDX although worth double checking.

 

08717-0004 - Hondabond 4
08718-0003 - Ultra Flange Sealant
08718-0004 - Hondabond HT
08718-0009 - Ultra Flange Sealant II
I've asked ChatGPT about all these, it recommended Hondabond HT or Ultra Flange Sealant II to seal oil pans.

Use Hondabond HT when you need a high-temp, high-performance RTV — for example, on oil pans, timing chain covers, or areas prone to vibration.
Use Ultra Flange II specifically for “gasketless” oil pans or very large metal flanges where you need a thick, gap-filling, oil-resistant seal.

 

Can somebody who is familiar with this issue confirm that this looks like an oil pump leak? I got this conclusion in an Acura dealership but wanted to have a second opinion before getting estimates from other shops.
The oil filter housing looks dry, so it must be the oil pump, right? (these are the best pictures I could take).

 

It looks like a small leak or even a seepage. Warm up the engine and wash it with brake cleaner while it's hot. Drive and see how long it takes for it to reappear.

 

I wanted to share my experience of going to 5 different shops to get quotes.
Long story short, I got two estimates for labor only ~$1600-1700 (+taxes and fee), one estimate was $1200. The rest two shops promised to send me quotes on email but forgot about me.
I also asked about parts, they can provide the exact parts I picked but for twice the price, for example the AISIN kit for $550, rockauto sells it for $187+$11 shipping fee.

 

In that case, instead of throwing this money in the trash, it’s probably better to wash up this place and keep driving.

 

I definitely need to reconsider my plan to fix it ASAP.

 

Here is how it looks like after washing. Most likely oil flowed out this way:
BTW, Are these cracks on the block something normal? Is it not what I might have caused while washing the hot block with brake cleaner?




The leak comes from here.

 

This is a factory casting of aluminum-magnesium alloy, not a crack.

 

There is no freshly leaked oil in the picture.

 

The $352 difference is likely the shop labor 'warranty' they factor in for a 'come-back' should any component fail prematurely.
Not sure of your location, though, if you live in a reasonably urban area, try and find an Acura / Honda specialty shop if possible?
Try the link below and see if it generates alternative to the places you have already visited.

Acura Repair Shops - Find an Acura Mechanic | AcuShops

Good Luck!

 

Of course, I took them right after washing.
I was talking about these cracks:




Right, that's how they explained it. However, I expected something like 20-30% not 100+%

I am from Lee County, Florida; I used that link when was looking for shops, 2 or 3 of them were definitely from that web site.

 

This is a factory casting of aluminum-magnesium alloy, not a crack.
If you washed it, drove 10 miles and it was dry, then there was no leak.

 

Thanks for calming me down

Most likely it's a seepage, I have not seen a single drop on the ground.

 

I know that it's a bit of a drive, but there's a shop in Tampa called Tampa Auto Doctor. I was very impressed with their service and honesty. If my girlfriend still lived there, we would have taken her car there every time.

 

Thanks.
I provided some info and requested an estimate on their web site, lets see what they say. They have good reviews (google and yelp), looks like they are a reputable shop.

 

We had them change a bunch of fluids, and they were completely honest with pointing out we needed a new rear differential. They gave us quotes and said to try Mazda HQ and see if they'd pitch in at a local dealer after doing a move to another state. I was messaging the owner and he got back to me fast all the time and gave me a 10% discount since I found him through reddit on a thread. If you don't hear back from them let me know and I'll send the owner a message!