2016 RDX with Fumoto valvle
#2
Senior Moderator
#4
Burning Brakes
This is a valve you use to replace your oil drain plug such that you only need to slide a valve pin in order to drain your oil at oil-change time. So in essence you don't need a wrench or a crush washer each time you crawl under the car to drain your oil.
I've typically avoided these valves since they're exposed to the underside of your car, and if you happen to hit something (rock, branch, etc) you could either wedge the pin that releases the oil, or even break off the brass drain valve assembly. In my case, given all the ice/snow we get up here, I just figured it was a risk to use so never tried it. Given the extended oil change intervals these days, I figure that every 6 months using a wrench and crush washer was as easy as spending the $35 to get the valve - plus the risk (to me) was less.
Just my thoughts.
andy
I've typically avoided these valves since they're exposed to the underside of your car, and if you happen to hit something (rock, branch, etc) you could either wedge the pin that releases the oil, or even break off the brass drain valve assembly. In my case, given all the ice/snow we get up here, I just figured it was a risk to use so never tried it. Given the extended oil change intervals these days, I figure that every 6 months using a wrench and crush washer was as easy as spending the $35 to get the valve - plus the risk (to me) was less.
Just my thoughts.
andy
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rosen39 (09-22-2015)
#5
This is a valve you use to replace your oil drain plug such that you only need to slide a valve pin in order to drain your oil at oil-change time. So in essence you don't need a wrench or a crush washer each time you crawl under the car to drain your oil.
I've typically avoided these valves since they're exposed to the underside of your car, and if you happen to hit something (rock, branch, etc) you could either wedge the pin that releases the oil, or even break off the brass drain valve assembly. In my case, given all the ice/snow we get up here, I just figured it was a risk to use so never tried it. Given the extended oil change intervals these days, I figure that every 6 months using a wrench and crush washer was as easy as spending the $35 to get the valve - plus the risk (to me) was less.
Just my thoughts.
andy
I've typically avoided these valves since they're exposed to the underside of your car, and if you happen to hit something (rock, branch, etc) you could either wedge the pin that releases the oil, or even break off the brass drain valve assembly. In my case, given all the ice/snow we get up here, I just figured it was a risk to use so never tried it. Given the extended oil change intervals these days, I figure that every 6 months using a wrench and crush washer was as easy as spending the $35 to get the valve - plus the risk (to me) was less.
Just my thoughts.
andy
#6
Senior Moderator
It has a spring loaded release and isn't pointing straight down so I'm not as worried.
Plus on the RDX, you guys have a much higher ground clearance than some cars! Some have gone so far as install a wire to prevent accidental release but honestly, i don't see it as being an issue.. Now if you've stanced out your car, then maybe.. I have it on all the sedans in my household and no problem thus far.
Plus on the RDX, you guys have a much higher ground clearance than some cars! Some have gone so far as install a wire to prevent accidental release but honestly, i don't see it as being an issue.. Now if you've stanced out your car, then maybe.. I have it on all the sedans in my household and no problem thus far.
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#8
i prefer not to use tubing though.
#9
#10
Senior Moderator
#11
Does it actually fit?
Another thread in the DIY or maintenance section mentioned the Fumoto valve and that it may not fit the RDX. Quik Valve was non-committal. Does anyone have this on their 2016 model?
#12
you're right. i communicated one of their sales rep and try and see. they'll refund my money back if it doesnt fit. I will let everyone keep updated once i receive and perform oil change soon
#13
I just changed oil and installed F106 and ADL106 together.
when i try to install together, F106 valve touched recessed area so it does not fitting right.
so, i installed ADL106 + honda oem washer + fumoto valve washer then installed F106 valve to adapter ADL106. i assembled F106 to ADL106 first then installed to drain pan.
it works perfectly fine! so if you have 2016 RDX or 2015, shouldnt have problem installing it.
here's pictures
when i try to install together, F106 valve touched recessed area so it does not fitting right.
so, i installed ADL106 + honda oem washer + fumoto valve washer then installed F106 valve to adapter ADL106. i assembled F106 to ADL106 first then installed to drain pan.
it works perfectly fine! so if you have 2016 RDX or 2015, shouldnt have problem installing it.
here's pictures
#14
2016 RDX works with Fumoto Valve F106 with ADL-106. you need to use fumoto valve washer and oem washer together on ADL-106 to drainpan
see my post below
#16
So it looks like the OEM washer is to push the adapter far enough away that it doesn't hit the oil pan.
Would installing the OEM washer + the oil drain valve washer be enough clearance that you wouldn't need the adapter?
Would installing the OEM washer + the oil drain valve washer be enough clearance that you wouldn't need the adapter?
#17
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by RDXtasy
So it looks like the OEM washer is to push the adapter far enough away that it doesn't hit the oil pan.
Would installing the OEM washer + the oil drain valve washer be enough clearance that you wouldn't need the adapter?
Would installing the OEM washer + the oil drain valve washer be enough clearance that you wouldn't need the adapter?
#18
Yep, I get it now. I had a mental/visual brain fart and forgot about recess. Doh! Has anyone else tried this yet? I'll be putting in my order soon as my wife's car is at 15% oil life.
#19
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Yep, I get it now. I had a mental/visual brain fart and forgot about recess. Doh! Has anyone else tried this yet? I'll be putting in my order soon as my wife's car is at 15% oil life.
I have it in a few of the cars in my family to make oil changes easier. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
#20
#21
I don't get it. Since you drive the car up on ramps anyway, and have to remove what looks like a plastic locking device to move the lever, what is the big deal about removing a drain plug with a wrench? The oil does not drain against the car frame (or anything), and you don't have to remove any plastic splash pans to get at the drain plug and filter. The risk of that device getting hit by some debris in the roadway (such as a truck tire carcass) and the potential loss of oil while driving 60 miles per hour would worry me. The idea is to have fewer gaskets for oil to get by. I'll live with one new crush washer each oil change.
#22
I don't get it. Since you drive the car up on ramps anyway, and have to remove what looks like a plastic locking device to move the lever, what is the big deal about removing a drain plug with a wrench? The oil does not drain against the car frame (or anything), and you don't have to remove any plastic splash pans to get at the drain plug and filter. The risk of that device getting hit by some debris in the roadway (such as a truck tire carcass) and the potential loss of oil while driving 60 miles per hour would worry me. The idea is to have fewer gaskets for oil to get by. I'll live with one new crush washer each oil change.
#23
Senior Moderator
I don't get it. Since you drive the car up on ramps anyway, and have to remove what looks like a plastic locking device to move the lever, what is the big deal about removing a drain plug with a wrench? The oil does not drain against the car frame (or anything), and you don't have to remove any plastic splash pans to get at the drain plug and filter. The risk of that device getting hit by some debris in the roadway (such as a truck tire carcass) and the potential loss of oil while driving 60 miles per hour would worry me. The idea is to have fewer gaskets for oil to get by. I'll live with one new crush washer each oil change.
To each their own though
#24
For me personally, it's to have less wear and tear on the soft aluminum oil pan threads that get messed up whenever people go to quick lube joints and get their drain plugs over torqued and such... I don't exactly enjoy dropping oil pans and sometimes subframes/j-pipes to replace them hence why I installed a fumoto valve
To each their own though
To each their own though
like i said, rosen39, if you dont feel safe in anyway, then you shouldnt. i was thinking about same thing as you did but RDX is high enough and i wont go over tires on highway. lol
#25
For me personally, it's to have less wear and tear on the soft aluminum oil pan threads that get messed up whenever people go to quick lube joints and get their drain plugs over torqued and such... I don't exactly enjoy dropping oil pans and sometimes subframes/j-pipes to replace them hence why I installed a fumoto valve
To each their own though
To each their own though
#26
You're looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. How many people have posted complaints about stripped oil drain plugs??? Use a torque wrench, and don't go to "quick lube" joints. Common sense.
#27
maybe he was looking for solution not mine.
i change my own oil.
How many people have posted complaints about fumoto valve hit object and destroyed oil pan?
we're not trying to argue with you that fumoto valve is must get for oil change.
just sharing what we have.
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hongthan (05-03-2019)
#28
If the valve was snug up against the pan, then there would be no problem. But you have more than doubled the length of this object, and it is pointing down at an angle. Anything that contacts this, by virtue of it's length, will now have leverage to bend it. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but here in New England, we have intersections that don't always get plowed properly. Imagine a chunk of frozen ice in the road, or at the end of a poorly plowed driveway. Hit that and drag it down the road, you could be sucking wind.
#29
If the valve was snug up against the pan, then there would be no problem. But you have more than doubled the length of this object, and it is pointing down at an angle. Anything that contacts this, by virtue of it's length, will now have leverage to bend it. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but here in New England, we have intersections that don't always get plowed properly. Imagine a chunk of frozen ice in the road, or at the end of a poorly plowed driveway. Hit that and drag it down the road, you could be sucking wind.
#30
Haven't been online in a while but I tried installing everything listed above and still don't have enough clearance to twist the valve on. I keep hitting the top? How did you manage to install without any problems?
#31
Senior Moderator
#32
Yep. Everything listed in the post including the extra washer. It's like I have to shave the recess or the valve itself to clear twisting it...
I still have the valve in case there is a way to do it that I'm overlooking but it would have to wait until my next oil change! =(
Has anyone else had success?
I still have the valve in case there is a way to do it that I'm overlooking but it would have to wait until my next oil change! =(
Has anyone else had success?
#33
Senior Moderator
are you installing the adapter first and THEN the valve? or are you attaching the valve to the adapter first and then spinning the whole thing onto the drain pan?
#35
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Everything was assembled first before attempting to install to the drain pan.
#36
Burning Brakes
A co-worker had one of these on his subaru but the dealership keep throwing it away. He would complain, get it replaced for free, and the cycle continued.
#37
#38
Yes I used everything you listed above. There is a total of 2 washers from Fumoto and the OEM washer. I'm wondering what would happen if I put one more washer in either at the oil pan or between the valve and adapter?
I won't be able to test this out until my next oil change.
I won't be able to test this out until my next oil change.
#39
Yes I used everything you listed above. There is a total of 2 washers from Fumoto and the OEM washer. I'm wondering what would happen if I put one more washer in either at the oil pan or between the valve and adapter?
I won't be able to test this out until my next oil change.
I won't be able to test this out until my next oil change.
#40
Just bought a 2013 RDX and looking into buying a Fumoto valve for it since I have one on my Si and it works great. I just hopped on the Fumoto page and they actually have a new SX series which is a two piece design where you have a bolt that passes through the valve piece. So no need for an adapter apparently.