2016 RDX with Fumoto valvle

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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 12:58 PM
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2016 RDX with Fumoto valvle

i just placed an order of F-106 along with ADL-106 for 2016 RDX. i probably going to chane it out next week and keep everyone updated.
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 12:59 PM
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by inmydream316
i just placed an order of F-106 along with ADL-106 for 2016 RDX. i probably going to chane it out next week and keep everyone updated.
Sorry, Pardner, I have no earthly idea what you're talking about.
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 03:48 PM
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This is a valve you use to replace your oil drain plug such that you only need to slide a valve pin in order to drain your oil at oil-change time. So in essence you don't need a wrench or a crush washer each time you crawl under the car to drain your oil.

I've typically avoided these valves since they're exposed to the underside of your car, and if you happen to hit something (rock, branch, etc) you could either wedge the pin that releases the oil, or even break off the brass drain valve assembly. In my case, given all the ice/snow we get up here, I just figured it was a risk to use so never tried it. Given the extended oil change intervals these days, I figure that every 6 months using a wrench and crush washer was as easy as spending the $35 to get the valve - plus the risk (to me) was less.

Just my thoughts.

andy
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by andysinnh
This is a valve you use to replace your oil drain plug such that you only need to slide a valve pin in order to drain your oil at oil-change time. So in essence you don't need a wrench or a crush washer each time you crawl under the car to drain your oil.

I've typically avoided these valves since they're exposed to the underside of your car, and if you happen to hit something (rock, branch, etc) you could either wedge the pin that releases the oil, or even break off the brass drain valve assembly. In my case, given all the ice/snow we get up here, I just figured it was a risk to use so never tried it. Given the extended oil change intervals these days, I figure that every 6 months using a wrench and crush washer was as easy as spending the $35 to get the valve - plus the risk (to me) was less.

Just my thoughts.

andy
I thought about it too. after install, i probably cover it with something like plastic plate
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 09:15 AM
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It has a spring loaded release and isn't pointing straight down so I'm not as worried.


Plus on the RDX, you guys have a much higher ground clearance than some cars! Some have gone so far as install a wire to prevent accidental release but honestly, i don't see it as being an issue.. Now if you've stanced out your car, then maybe.. I have it on all the sedans in my household and no problem thus far.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 11:33 AM
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Can you use tubing to extend the spigot? i.e., can it be used to avoid getting oil on the frame?

Perhaps better yet, is there a link someone can post?
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Desert Ridge
Can you use tubing to extend the spigot? i.e., can it be used to avoid getting oil on the frame?

Perhaps better yet, is there a link someone can post?
Amazon.com: Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive Amazon.com: Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive

i prefer not to use tubing though.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Desert Ridge
Can you use tubing to extend the spigot? i.e., can it be used to avoid getting oil on the frame?
I put some polyethylene tubing over the nipple and drain directly into recycling containers.
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Desert Ridge
Can you use tubing to extend the spigot? i.e., can it be used to avoid getting oil on the frame?

Perhaps better yet, is there a link someone can post?
yes you can. if you buy the valve the N(ipple)
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Does it actually fit?

Another thread in the DIY or maintenance section mentioned the Fumoto valve and that it may not fit the RDX. Quik Valve was non-committal. Does anyone have this on their 2016 model?
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kfhughes
Another thread in the DIY or maintenance section mentioned the Fumoto valve and that it may not fit the RDX. Quik Valve was non-committal. Does anyone have this on their 2016 model?
you're right. i communicated one of their sales rep and try and see. they'll refund my money back if it doesnt fit. I will let everyone keep updated once i receive and perform oil change soon
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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I just changed oil and installed F106 and ADL106 together.

when i try to install together, F106 valve touched recessed area so it does not fitting right.
so, i installed ADL106 + honda oem washer + fumoto valve washer then installed F106 valve to adapter ADL106. i assembled F106 to ADL106 first then installed to drain pan.
it works perfectly fine! so if you have 2016 RDX or 2015, shouldnt have problem installing it.

here's pictures

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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by inmydream316
i just placed an order of F-106 along with ADL-106 for 2016 RDX. i probably going to chane it out next week and keep everyone updated.
10/4/15
2016 RDX works with Fumoto Valve F106 with ADL-106. you need to use fumoto valve washer and oem washer together on ADL-106 to drainpan

see my post below
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 05:39 PM
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^ sorry about double post. i cant edit post and posted again lol
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 11:51 AM
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So it looks like the OEM washer is to push the adapter far enough away that it doesn't hit the oil pan.

Would installing the OEM washer + the oil drain valve washer be enough clearance that you wouldn't need the adapter?
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
So it looks like the OEM washer is to push the adapter far enough away that it doesn't hit the oil pan.

Would installing the OEM washer + the oil drain valve washer be enough clearance that you wouldn't need the adapter?
No. How would you screw the oil valve on with that little recess. The valve mechanism sticks out hence the need for the ADL piece.
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
No. How would you screw the oil valve on with that little recess. The valve mechanism sticks out hence the need for the ADL piece.
Yep, I get it now. I had a mental/visual brain fart and forgot about recess. Doh! Has anyone else tried this yet? I'll be putting in my order soon as my wife's car is at 15% oil life.
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Yep, I get it now. I had a mental/visual brain fart and forgot about recess. Doh! Has anyone else tried this yet? I'll be putting in my order soon as my wife's car is at 15% oil life.
It's okay, I'll blame the gluttony of last week

I have it in a few of the cars in my family to make oil changes easier. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Yep, I get it now. I had a mental/visual brain fart and forgot about recess. Doh! Has anyone else tried this yet? I'll be putting in my order soon as my wife's car is at 15% oil life.
you should be fine since mine fits.
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:02 PM
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I don't get it. Since you drive the car up on ramps anyway, and have to remove what looks like a plastic locking device to move the lever, what is the big deal about removing a drain plug with a wrench? The oil does not drain against the car frame (or anything), and you don't have to remove any plastic splash pans to get at the drain plug and filter. The risk of that device getting hit by some debris in the roadway (such as a truck tire carcass) and the potential loss of oil while driving 60 miles per hour would worry me. The idea is to have fewer gaskets for oil to get by. I'll live with one new crush washer each oil change.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rosen39
I don't get it. Since you drive the car up on ramps anyway, and have to remove what looks like a plastic locking device to move the lever, what is the big deal about removing a drain plug with a wrench? The oil does not drain against the car frame (or anything), and you don't have to remove any plastic splash pans to get at the drain plug and filter. The risk of that device getting hit by some debris in the roadway (such as a truck tire carcass) and the potential loss of oil while driving 60 miles per hour would worry me. The idea is to have fewer gaskets for oil to get by. I'll live with one new crush washer each oil change.
you dont have to. it's personal preference of having little easier to do oil change. if you feel its risky and dangerous, do it with traditional way.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rosen39
I don't get it. Since you drive the car up on ramps anyway, and have to remove what looks like a plastic locking device to move the lever, what is the big deal about removing a drain plug with a wrench? The oil does not drain against the car frame (or anything), and you don't have to remove any plastic splash pans to get at the drain plug and filter. The risk of that device getting hit by some debris in the roadway (such as a truck tire carcass) and the potential loss of oil while driving 60 miles per hour would worry me. The idea is to have fewer gaskets for oil to get by. I'll live with one new crush washer each oil change.
For me personally, it's to have less wear and tear on the soft aluminum oil pan threads that get messed up whenever people go to quick lube joints and get their drain plugs over torqued and such... I don't exactly enjoy dropping oil pans and sometimes subframes/j-pipes to replace them hence why I installed a fumoto valve


To each their own though
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
For me personally, it's to have less wear and tear on the soft aluminum oil pan threads that get messed up whenever people go to quick lube joints and get their drain plugs over torqued and such... I don't exactly enjoy dropping oil pans and sometimes subframes/j-pipes to replace them hence why I installed a fumoto valve


To each their own though
yup. another reason here.

like i said, rosen39, if you dont feel safe in anyway, then you shouldnt. i was thinking about same thing as you did but RDX is high enough and i wont go over tires on highway. lol
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
For me personally, it's to have less wear and tear on the soft aluminum oil pan threads that get messed up whenever people go to quick lube joints and get their drain plugs over torqued and such... I don't exactly enjoy dropping oil pans and sometimes subframes/j-pipes to replace them hence why I installed a fumoto valve


To each their own though
I've done oil changes on VW's, Audi's and Mercedes with aluminum oil pans. If you properly torque the drain bolt, you won't have to worry about worn threads.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by inmydream316
yup. another reason here.

like i said, rosen39, if you dont feel safe in anyway, then you shouldnt. i was thinking about same thing as you did but RDX is high enough and i wont go over tires on highway. lol
You're looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. How many people have posted complaints about stripped oil drain plugs??? Use a torque wrench, and don't go to "quick lube" joints. Common sense.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rosen39
You're looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. How many people have posted complaints about stripped oil drain plugs??? Use a torque wrench, and don't go to "quick lube" joints. Common sense.

maybe he was looking for solution not mine.
i change my own oil.
How many people have posted complaints about fumoto valve hit object and destroyed oil pan?

we're not trying to argue with you that fumoto valve is must get for oil change.
just sharing what we have.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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If the valve was snug up against the pan, then there would be no problem. But you have more than doubled the length of this object, and it is pointing down at an angle. Anything that contacts this, by virtue of it's length, will now have leverage to bend it. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but here in New England, we have intersections that don't always get plowed properly. Imagine a chunk of frozen ice in the road, or at the end of a poorly plowed driveway. Hit that and drag it down the road, you could be sucking wind.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rosen39
If the valve was snug up against the pan, then there would be no problem. But you have more than doubled the length of this object, and it is pointing down at an angle. Anything that contacts this, by virtue of it's length, will now have leverage to bend it. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but here in New England, we have intersections that don't always get plowed properly. Imagine a chunk of frozen ice in the road, or at the end of a poorly plowed driveway. Hit that and drag it down the road, you could be sucking wind.
ok.
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 12:29 PM
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Haven't been online in a while but I tried installing everything listed above and still don't have enough clearance to twist the valve on. I keep hitting the top? How did you manage to install without any problems?
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Haven't been online in a while but I tried installing everything listed above and still don't have enough clearance to twist the valve on. I keep hitting the top? How did you manage to install without any problems?
You bought the the ADL adapter too?
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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Yep. Everything listed in the post including the extra washer. It's like I have to shave the recess or the valve itself to clear twisting it...

I still have the valve in case there is a way to do it that I'm overlooking but it would have to wait until my next oil change! =(

Has anyone else had success?
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 01:09 PM
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are you installing the adapter first and THEN the valve? or are you attaching the valve to the adapter first and then spinning the whole thing onto the drain pan?
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 01:36 PM
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Everything was assembled first before attempting to install to the drain pan.
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Everything was assembled first before attempting to install to the drain pan.
Try attaching the adapter to the pan first then attaching valve to the adapter
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 04:23 PM
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A co-worker had one of these on his subaru but the dealership keep throwing it away. He would complain, get it replaced for free, and the cycle continued.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Everything was assembled first before attempting to install to the drain pan.
actually i assembled first then install whole thing to pan.
did you install fumoto washer and oem washer together at adapter and pan?
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:54 PM
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Yes I used everything you listed above. There is a total of 2 washers from Fumoto and the OEM washer. I'm wondering what would happen if I put one more washer in either at the oil pan or between the valve and adapter?

I won't be able to test this out until my next oil change.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RDXtasy
Yes I used everything you listed above. There is a total of 2 washers from Fumoto and the OEM washer. I'm wondering what would happen if I put one more washer in either at the oil pan or between the valve and adapter?

I won't be able to test this out until my next oil change.
this may be tricky but install adapter and valve as i mentioned first but dont fully tighten it. now install that assembled into pan and you can tighten valve to adapter so it doesnt hit on recessed oil pan
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 11:57 PM
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Just bought a 2013 RDX and looking into buying a Fumoto valve for it since I have one on my Si and it works great. I just hopped on the Fumoto page and they actually have a new SX series which is a two piece design where you have a bolt that passes through the valve piece. So no need for an adapter apparently.
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