just wanted to provide a write up for anyone who wanted to do the plugs on this vehicle. I am a beginner in mechanics so when I was doing some digging it wasn't that easy to find the exact vehicle and a writeup for that. Since the J35 engine is in many different vehicles, they all look like they have a diff amount of engine space

to be honest then i saw the job from far, i dreaded it as it looked to be much tighter then i wanted to deal with. In comparison I did a Toyota 4 cylinder and it was so easy, just pop the cover off and coils and spark plugs are right on the top basically in the middle.I knew I needed to have all the tools before hand so I wouldn't have to postpone the job. I did some digging and I wanted to buy a magnetic spark plug socket set. I think this is mandatory as the rubber grommet ones kinda suck and i have had the rubber come out before for different jobs.I went to autozone and I found a magnetic socket with the swivel/dongle and bought it. I also bought a normal magnetic socket without the swivel attached.

Duralast Tools Spark Plug Socket 52-132 -------> they have another thats longer but that would be too long then
Duralast Tools Spark Plug Socket 52-133 ---- > normal magnetic socket without the dongle

i got both so i would have more flexibility in what to use. my vehicle came with the NGK so i replaced with the OEM iridiums from rockauto NGK7751 which also goes by ILZKR7B11. some vehicles come with denso i think so ofc for them its better to swap with denso i assume keep a 3/8 socket set on hand with a bunch of 3 inch extensions and even a 6 inch extension.

honestly for me the front was probably harder then the back since on the front i kept scraping my hands and etc. I won't get in detail about all the nitty gritty but essentially take off engine cover, remove coil connector, remove coil nut, i think its a 10mm, pull out coil. and then use whatever out of those 2 sockets that you prefer to take out the first plug. I used the dongle one as the front is a bit tighter. I removed the plug and then inserted new plug in the hole. To prevent cross threading, I was taught to reverse thread the plug as if you were loosening it, wait for it to kinda hit a dip. That is the point where the threads are perfectly aligned, and then tighten from there. This way apparently you can never cross thread. I first hand tightened, then got my tq wrench and tightened to 16 foot lbs ish. If you are new to using a torque wrench, some of the cheap wrenches have such a subtle click so be very careful when tightening. Also the first time you install a new plug it will take more time and more turns to reach 16 foot lbs compared to installing an old plug as the first time some of the force is used to crush the washer. lastly you can torque the coil nut to 9 foot lbs but snug is fine too. once tightened, i reinstalled coil and started doing the rest. For the back, hop onto the engine bay with your knees kinda thing or lean over. Feel around to remove the coil plug and the nut, and then remove. on the rear i used the normal magnetic spark plug socket without the dongle but i mix and matched 3 inch or 6 inch socket extensions. you will have to play with it such as sometimes putting the socket on the plug and then attaching the socket after etc etc. repeat the above.

once again, it took me probably 1.5 hrs as i was going slow and im a beginner but happy all is done

hope it helps someone!