2013 RDX Pricing

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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #281  
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Originally Posted by njdman
I was told by a friend in the car sales business to go to Tru-Car.com and spec the exact RDX (color and specs) I wanted to buy. List price was 36,600. I got 3 prices from dealers in the area from Tru-Car and the best was 34,450.00, with the other two being slightly over 35K. Once I had the actual email from the dealer stating they guarenteed the price I printed it out and took it to the dealer locally and they did match the price. I believe this is slightly under dealer tissue but there is always a "pay back" that Acura gives them in the end. They were happy and made money I am sure, I was happy and purchased the vehicle I wanted in the color and AWD without tech. Remember a firm deal for the dealer is better than floor planning the car. I was prepared to purchase the car on the spot, and took a deposit check with me to show them it was no BS. Before I even attempted to negotiate price, I had driven the RDX and decided I was going to purchase it without hesitation, as long as the price was agreeable to everyone. I was in commercial printing sales for 24 years and realize that for every close low profit deal, there will be 10 higher profit deals to recover the money. As long as you aren't "loosing" money, which no dealer will do, its a win and one more unit off the floor plan.

I found one off tru-car and for awd rdx, it came out 37860, this is a lot lower than some of the internet prices I been receiving from dealers. I never use tru-car before, If I print that out, they have to honor that ? is that how it works ?

$37,860 Estimated Savings Guarantee of $2,455
(6.08%) off $40,315 MSRP

Valid on ANY in-stock 2013 Acura RDX - AWD 4dr Tech Pkg
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 09:05 PM
  #282  
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Tru car reply

The dealer sent you a certificate stating the price they guarantee. Head over with the email cert, a deposit check and do the deal. Make sure the vehicle doesn't have any needless options. In my case, I went to another dealer closer, and they matched the price from the tru car dealer. Good luck and as I said, a close deal is better than no deal. I guarantee you the owner of the dealership has more $$ than you or the salesman and they have pre-arranged agreements with tru car Similar to Costco.
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 09:28 PM
  #283  
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Napoleon: Why not save up the $10k and then draw off that fund to pay anything in excess of $450/month.

QN52: Yikes! Y'all up in Canada?? Can y'all not buy and finance in the US?
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by narutobear
I found one off tru-car and for awd rdx, it came out 37860, this is a lot lower than some of the internet prices I been receiving from dealers. I never use tru-car before, If I print that out, they have to honor that ? is that how it works ?

$37,860 Estimated Savings Guarantee of $2,455
(6.08%) off $40,315 MSRP

Valid on ANY in-stock 2013 Acura RDX - AWD 4dr Tech Pkg
Further proof that actual transaction pricing will vary dramatically depending on where you live. I couldn't negotiate better than $500 off MSRP, and Truecar's target price in my area is just $330 off sticker ($39,985). At least inventory is improving . . . my dealer is all the way up to six (6) new RDX's in stock.

Last edited by HotRodW; Sep 3, 2012 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 08:44 PM
  #285  
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[quote=gbriank;14013996]Napoleon: Why not save up the $10k and then draw off that fund to pay anything in excess of $450/month.

I can, I just did that to prevent any overdrawing from the fund. It also works assuming I get the 0.9% financing. My bank account returns about 0.91% interest. If the loan is for 1.9% then I'll be paying more in interest than I would collecting interest of it sitting in my bank. Correct? Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:10 AM
  #286  
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Originally Posted by gbriank
Napoleon: Why not save up the $10k and then draw off that fund to pay anything in excess of $450/month.

QN52: Yikes! Y'all up in Canada?? Can y'all not buy and finance in the US?
We could but they don't honour the warranty in Canada.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by HotRodW
Further proof that actual transaction pricing will vary dramatically depending on where you live. I couldn't negotiate better than $500 off MSRP, and Truecar's target price in my area is just $330 off sticker ($39,985). At least inventory is improving . . . my dealer is all the way up to six (6) new RDX's in stock.

Wow, that is a huge difference.

So my next dilemma is FWD (36,500) or AWD (37,860). Both with tech package.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 09:49 AM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by QN52
We could but they don't honour the warranty in Canada.
Drat! Sad day in which we live in where Canadians don't get the same deals as Americans...
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #289  
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[QUOTE=Napoleon;14015474]
Originally Posted by gbriank
Napoleon: Why not save up the $10k and then draw off that fund to pay anything in excess of $450/month.

I can, I just did that to prevent any overdrawing from the fund. It also works assuming I get the 0.9% financing. My bank account returns about 0.91% interest. If the loan is for 1.9% then I'll be paying more in interest than I would collecting interest of it sitting in my bank. Correct? Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
You are correct. If you're risk adverse, you would hold the money and finance the entire car. If not, then you put the money down. This is your choice to make. GAP is included in almost all loans and leases today.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 12:04 PM
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I received the following quotes from a Boston area Acura dealer

FWD Base - MSRP $35,215, Price Quote - $33,715 $1500 discount from MSRP
AWD Tech - MSRP $40,315, Price Quote - $38,415 $1900 discount from MSRP

Dealer Doc $298

I also asked for prices on FWD Tech and AWD Base and the response was that they discount all trims by around $2,000 although the FWD Base quote I received is only $1500 so I can see if I can get another $500 or so off of that.

Thoughts on the quotes? Looks like with some exceptions most prices paid that I have seen on various sites are $1500 to $2000 off MSRP so do I have any wiggle room? Thank you for any replies and input.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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2k is about where most places will go. You can wait till end of month or push for some add-ons like mats or splash guards, etc - but otherwise that's certainly a good place to start.

There's 1k in conquest cash/Acura loyalty for the TL/MDX but the only cash incentive currently on the '13 RDX is $750 military.
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 04:37 PM
  #292  
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I feel like I got a great deal here in Northern VA. After hours of negotiation and rejecting 4 counter-offers, I closed on a '13 RDX base model for $32,070 + $399 processing fee and $974 VA Sales tax. I was out the door for $33,497.
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 06:31 PM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by BobbyInVA
I feel like I got a great deal here in Northern VA. After hours of negotiation and rejecting 4 counter-offers, I closed on a '13 RDX base model for $32,070 + $399 processing fee and $974 VA Sales tax. I was out the door for $33,497.
Based on your posted price I aasume that this is FWD Base and not AWD Base? If you got AWD Base for 32K then I might be willing to take a trip to VA.
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BobbyInVA
I feel like I got a great deal here in Northern VA. After hours of negotiation and rejecting 4 counter-offers, I closed on a '13 RDX base model for $32,070 + $399 processing fee and $974 VA Sales tax. I was out the door for $33,497.
Based on your posted price I aasume that this is FWD Base and not AWD Base? If you got AWD Base for 32K then I might ask you to PM the dealer as I might be willing to take a trip to VA for that price.
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 11:43 PM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by bossfan
Based on your posted price I aasume that this is FWD Base and not AWD Base? If you got AWD Base for 32K then I might ask you to PM the dealer as I might be willing to take a trip to VA for that price.
My apologies. I meant to include that bit of pertinent info in my post. Yes, it is FWD base model.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #296  
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2013 RDX AWD w/tech package Leasing Help!

Hey all,

I really like the new RDX. So much so that I'd really like to lease the thing. I've gotten the payments down to $492 a month for 36 months, but the buyout is still a little bit too high. With the lease and buyout added together, its almost $2800 over msrp. If I really like the vehicle, I want to keep it at the end of the lease, but from prior leases with Acura, I know they won't negotiate the buyout down at the end so why its so important right now. Have any of you been able to negotiate a good buyout on your 2013 RDX?
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #297  
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why not just buy it?

Originally Posted by smarty666
Hey all,

I really like the new RDX. So much so that I'd really like to lease the thing. I've gotten the payments down to $492 a month for 36 months, but the buyout is still a little bit too high. With the lease and buyout added together, its almost $2800 over msrp. If I really like the vehicle, I want to keep it at the end of the lease, but from prior leases with Acura, I know they won't negotiate the buyout down at the end so why its so important right now. Have any of you been able to negotiate a good buyout on your 2013 RDX?
There wont be much difference in your monthly payments. mayby 75-80 extra.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:19 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by aks1972
There wont be much difference in your monthly payments. mayby 75-80 extra.
Actually, there would be. The payments would be well over $600 a month, as I could only put down like $6-7k on the car. I can't afford to finance it.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:48 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by smarty666
Actually, there would be. The payments would be well over $600 a month, as I could only put down like $6-7k on the car. I can't afford to finance it.

I agree, I am in a similar boat. I can't afford the $625 a month to finance (with 0 down). If you can put $7k down right now and negotiate the car price to $34,000 (non tech package obviously) then the payments are $500 a month, not far from the $492 a month lease you spoke of. If you want payments lower then you should do what I'm doing. Waiting until next summer and spending the next 9 months saving as much as I possibly can. You can then use that savings to put towards a large down payment.

Waiting is the hardest part, trust me I know! But if you can put away $400 a month (instead of a car payment, put it to savings) for the next 9 months, thats $3600 you can put additional to the down payment. Add that to the 6-7k you can put down down and you have yourself a $10,000 down payment. With that, you can get yourself an AWD Tech Package and have monthly payments of about $490 (give or take).
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #300  
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I was in a similar situation when I initially looked at buying the RDX. I was pre-approved by my credit union for 60 months at 1.79% on a new car loan. Once I realized that the car payments would be too far out of my comfort zone, I was feeling a little dejected and figured I need to either buy used or look at a cheaper brand of car. But then I did a little more homework and learned that my credit union offered 72 month loan terms for 1.99%. Went into the credit union and reworked the loan terms that next morning and purchased my new RDX later that same day.....problem solved. Perhaps this is an option for you to consider. In any case, good luck with your shopping and I hope it works out that you can get the car you desire.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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Napoleon...I would not put any money down n a car to keep the monthly payment down because if you get your vehicle totaled within a few months of owning, you may lose that down payment...I just trust insurance company. If you have some money saved up, keep your money in the bank and have a monthly transfer from your saving account to your checking account or something. That way you keep your money in the bank should something happen when you buy your RDX.....So say you have 10k in the bank, and your car payment with 0 down would be 650$ a month (just a random number)....what you do is say OK, my 10K would be 167$ a month for 60 months so you get monthly transfer 167$ from one account to the next so in reality, you are still paying about 483$ a month. That is just what I would do....
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by smarty666
Hey all,

I really like the new RDX. So much so that I'd really like to lease the thing. I've gotten the payments down to $492 a month for 36 months, but the buyout is still a little bit too high. With the lease and buyout added together, its almost $2800 over msrp. If I really like the vehicle, I want to keep it at the end of the lease, but from prior leases with Acura, I know they won't negotiate the buyout down at the end so why its so important right now. Have any of you been able to negotiate a good buyout on your 2013 RDX?
This cannot be done and will vary simply based on whatever the current set residual is, by Acura finance. MSRP x residual % = the end buyout, with no changing or flex in that end number.

Will change from month to month and lease end, and residual will be highest the earlier in the model year and lower as the model year goes on. At the same time, Acura will revise the money factors as well. If you like the payments, residual is the residual.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #303  
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Originally Posted by weather
Napoleon...I would not put any money down n a car to keep the monthly payment down because if you get your vehicle totaled within a few months of owning, you may lose that down payment...I just trust insurance company. If you have some money saved up, keep your money in the bank and have a monthly transfer from your saving account to your checking account or something. That way you keep your money in the bank should something happen when you buy your RDX.....So say you have 10k in the bank, and your car payment with 0 down would be 650$ a month (just a random number)....what you do is say OK, my 10K would be 167$ a month for 60 months so you get monthly transfer 167$ from one account to the next so in reality, you are still paying about 483$ a month. That is just what I would do....
Maybe I am confused as to how it works... if the car is totaled they will give you fair market value. If I finance the entire car (assume $37,000), the second I drive off the lot, the car loses some value (assume a $2000 drop off the bat). Lets say the next day the car is totaled. The fair market value of the car would be $35,000... except I financed $37,000. So I would OWE $2000. Now, if I put $2000 down payment under similar situation, I would break even.

Again the numbers are random. If I am incorrect, please show me where I am wrong This was just how I thought it worked.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:44 PM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by beach109
This cannot be done and will vary simply based on whatever the current set residual is, by Acura finance. MSRP x residual % = the end buyout, with no changing or flex in that end number.

Will change from month to month and lease end, and residual will be highest the earlier in the model year and lower as the model year goes on. At the same time, Acura will revise the money factors as well. If you like the payments, residual is the residual.
I've always found these statements interesting as the residual value cannot be set by Acura financial. Reason being:

(1) The residual value I have been given has varied from dealer to dealer so its not a set value
(2) Every car buying website, edmunds, CRs, JD POwer, cars.com, etc all say that the buyout is a negotiable part of the sale on a lease car
(3) I've spoken to multiple people at Acura Financial Services who clearly stated to me that they cannot set the buyout amount for their vehicles, as b/c the dealerships are independently owned business, they can't legally tell the dealerships what they can charge for the buyout. The dealerships guess estimate what the car will be worth.

#1 and #3 tend to jive which each other and it makes sense to me.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #305  
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Originally Posted by Napoleon
Maybe I am confused as to how it works... if the car is totaled they will give you fair market value. If I finance the entire car (assume $37,000), the second I drive off the lot, the car loses some value (assume a $2000 drop off the bat). Lets say the next day the car is totaled. The fair market value of the car would be $35,000... except I financed $37,000. So I would OWE $2000. Now, if I put $2000 down payment under similar situation, I would break even.

Again the numbers are random. If I am incorrect, please show me where I am wrong This was just how I thought it worked.
Uuuh, not sure where you got that $2000 from. The value I've always heard was a loss of 15 to 20% as the car drives from the new car lot. And when you think of "fair market value" (from the insurance company's mind), its more trade-in (or auction) value rather than resale value (to keep their losses low). Ask yourself why GAP insurance came about and why almost EVERY luxury car today has it built into the lease or loan? Its because they know that the initial resale value loss is steep at the beginning of the loan and dissipates over time (as you get closer to 36 and 48 months).
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 04:17 AM
  #306  
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2000 was being extremely conservative lol. I heart 12-15%, but ok so 20% of 37k is about $7000. So the day I drive off that lot the car is worth $30,000. I total it and insurance gives me market value - lets guess they say $25,000. Thats still less than the loan of $37k owed on the loan, so I'd be in the hole $12k. I would think if I put a DP of 10k and took a loan out for $27k, then I'd be less in the hole in that case.

Again, I don't know how the insurance works so I'm guessing I'm wrong here. I've never been in a serious accident <<knock on wood>> so I've never had to deal with it! Can you explain with real world numbers like above, why a 0 DP is better.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 05:43 AM
  #307  
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**HEARD... not HEART.... sorry, typing that at 4:45am before my morning coffee wasn't the best idea
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 05:48 AM
  #308  
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And nevermind, I re-read what you wrote. I didn't take into account GAP insurance. I was just thinking in terms of normal insurance without gap coverage.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #309  
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2013 RDX vs 2012 MDX

I have an offer of $37,500 for a base MDX plus tax, tag, title and a guesstimate
of $34,000 for a 2013 RDX. With the MDX being a model year older I'm wondering what the best deal is for future value, say two or three years?
The MDX is pushing my budget I just wish they would deal better on the RDX.

Howard in Florida
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by bossfan
Based on your posted price I aasume that this is FWD Base and not AWD Base? If you got AWD Base for 32K then I might ask you to PM the dealer as I might be willing to take a trip to VA for that price.
I think the VA state sales tax is 4% so am not sure where he got the $974 tax figure from on a base of 32070
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #311  
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Originally Posted by tires38
I think the VA state sales tax is 4% so am not sure where he got the $974 tax figure from on a base of 32070
Nah, it's 3% on Auto Sales in Virginia.

http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/ci...hicles/sut.asp
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #312  
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Purchased a black/ebony AWD Tech yesterday in Chicago area for $38,415 plus tax and title. Dealer fee was $160. Paid cash. Now the learning curve for all the new tech begins. Wish me luck.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #313  
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RDX price

Originally Posted by kydong
This is my 1st post, been reading the forum a while, I'm also in bayarea and got this offer (after 30 emails) and i'm ready to pick up the white RDX with Tech package without any trade-in:


Vehicle Price: $38,915.00
Market Savings: - $2,614.00
Vehicle Selling Price: $36,301.00
ALL SEASON MATS: + $137.28
Trailer Hitch: + $487.63
Price: $36,925.91

Sales Tax (estimate): + $3,100.81
Tire/Battery/MVWEA: + $8.75
Tag/Registration Fees: + $310.00
Flat Add/County Fee: + $20.00
Electronic Filing: + $18.60
Smog Abatement Fee: + $20.00
Documentation Fee: + $80.00
Balance Due (estimate): $40,484.07

Other than that price, they include, 4 year/48,000 miles service:
(4 year VCP Maintenance Plan) 5 times of A1 service and 4 times of B1 and they said that i can use all of these 9 services after 4 year/48,000 miles.
This is the best deal i can get after dealing by emails with all the Acura dealer in Bayarea.
Have fun with your new Acura.
KD
Please tell me where you buy this.thanks
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #314  
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Originally Posted by thoang
Please tell me where you buy this.thanks
Check your pm for dealer info
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by snowlion
Check your pm for dealer info
Is there a rule about not mentioning the name and location of dealers or something. Just wonder why people don't post the info in here to help others like they do on other car forums. If not, why does it seem like such a big secret that everyone seems to want to privately PM the info? Just curious as I thought one of the objects of posting info was to help everyone that visits and is a member here.
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by geocord
Is there a rule about not mentioning the name and location of dealers or something. Just wonder why people don't post the info in here to help others like they do on other car forums. If not, why does it seem like such a big secret that everyone seems to want to privately PM the info? Just curious as I thought one of the objects of posting info was to help everyone that visits and is a member here.
AutoWest Acura of Stevens Creek. FYI, I sent pm to thoang as a courtesy to the buyer kydong because it included a direct quote from his private message to me. I'm fairly new to this forum and not familiar with all communications rules, just trying to be respectful to the person who replied to my own inquiry.
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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by snowlion
AutoWest Acura of Stevens Creek. FYI, I sent pm to thoang as a courtesy to the buyer kydong because it included a direct quote from his private message to me. I'm fairly new to this forum and not familiar with all communications rules, just trying to be respectful to the person who replied to my own inquiry.
No disrespect intended, just curious as I stated. I've seen others do the same thing and was just wondering.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 07:30 PM
  #318  
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Price for 2 Acuras

Hi all,

In a couple weeks I am purchasing 2 FWD RDXes with Tech packages. We are also going to add several accessories on both vehicles.

I have one dealer (4 hours away) that has offered to sell me both vehicles for $37,765 each and give me dealer cost on all accessories. Is this a good deal?

I am also going to use this deal to try and get a better deal at my local dealer. What should my initial offer be since I am buying 2? What price should I shoot for?

Thanks everyone for your advice!
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:04 AM
  #319  
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I live in NY and contacted a number of dealers in NY, NJ and even PA. My situation was negotiating my trade, the RDX and a few accessories(roof rails, hitch, splash guards, side molding). The price for a 2013 RDX AWD/Tech ranged greatly with the lowest quotes coming from NJ dealers via internet for the price of the car but their accessories prices were usually higher. I felt more comfortable buying closer to home where I would have the car serviced. The NY quotes (at the dealerships) ranged from $37,700 to $38,600. Accessories ranged from $1100 to $2089. Of course my trade also received a wide range of offers as well. As you can see, I needed to juggle all the components and I went with the dealer that made a fair offer on all three and felt their service dept was high quality and convienent.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 03:31 PM
  #320  
mbm0420's Avatar
Intermediate
 
Joined: Jul 2012
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I forgot to mention that I do NOT have a trade in.
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