Easiest way to remove say bar end links?
07-26-2010, 02:18 AM
#1
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Easiest way to remove say bar end links?
Soon I am getting ready to replace all of my end links with the moog parts and I would like to know the easiest way to get them off.
I am pretty sure after 9 years and 94K miles that the original ones are done cause I hear some light clunking in the front when I hit small bumps in the road and the car wiggles too much in the corners. I have looked around and end links seems to be the issue according to other threads I have found.
the best way I have found is to cut them off of the lower mounting point and then remove the bar and cut them off of that.
I am pretty sure after 9 years and 94K miles that the original ones are done cause I hear some light clunking in the front when I hit small bumps in the road and the car wiggles too much in the corners. I have looked around and end links seems to be the issue according to other threads I have found.
the best way I have found is to cut them off of the lower mounting point and then remove the bar and cut them off of that.
07-26-2010, 03:02 AM
#2
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
If you dont have an impact wrench to quickly break them loose, cut them.
07-26-2010, 03:44 AM
#3
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
might have access to an impact wrench but if not I'll slice them off
07-26-2010, 08:00 AM
#4
Most likely they are rusted and "frozen" together. But It's worth a try to get them out properly. Try heating them up first or spraying some break-free on them.
To get them off after that, stick the proper sized allen key into the hole while turning the nut with a wrench. I was able to get one side off when I did my rear sway upgrade, the other had to be cut off. Cutting them off can be a pain unless you have access to a nice grinding wheel. Because you have to make 2 cuts.
Im interested to hear how you like the moog joints, people around here seem to love them. I just picked up a matching front sway in the bm sans links so I'll be picking up some links sooner or later. Thought of giving ingalls, or fastlinks (heeltoe) a try just to be different if all else fails I can get the moog joints locally.
To get them off after that, stick the proper sized allen key into the hole while turning the nut with a wrench. I was able to get one side off when I did my rear sway upgrade, the other had to be cut off. Cutting them off can be a pain unless you have access to a nice grinding wheel. Because you have to make 2 cuts.
Im interested to hear how you like the moog joints, people around here seem to love them. I just picked up a matching front sway in the bm sans links so I'll be picking up some links sooner or later. Thought of giving ingalls, or fastlinks (heeltoe) a try just to be different if all else fails I can get the moog joints locally.
07-26-2010, 06:02 PM
#5
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Well we'll know in about a month's time. right now I am trying to get enough cash together to do a RL caliper 350Z rotor upgrade
calipers are $150 / pair (jy)
mounting brakets are $125 / pair
350Z rotor $100 (vented solid OE replacement)
04 TL wheels $600
Tires for said wheels 600
End links are $80 for all 4 shipped from Amazon and I figure about 3 hours to do cause it will be the first time I did them on this car and about 15 years since I changed a set out.
calipers are $150 / pair (jy)
mounting brakets are $125 / pair
350Z rotor $100 (vented solid OE replacement)
04 TL wheels $600
Tires for said wheels 600
End links are $80 for all 4 shipped from Amazon and I figure about 3 hours to do cause it will be the first time I did them on this car and about 15 years since I changed a set out.
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07-30-2010, 10:01 PM
#8
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
They love to seize, then you end up stripping them.
07-31-2010, 12:06 PM
#9
I am calling a little BS on all this moaning about links seizing and the need to cut or hack off links.
I could be wrong, but let me elaborate.
1- There is a 14mm locknut and a 5mm allen hole in the stud for the link. The proper removal procedure is to put the wrench on, but the allen key in, and turn the nut with the wrench while holding the stud still.
2- Once you get the nut loose, it must be turned with a wrench the entire way off the stud. IT IS NOT SEIZING. It isn't sticking, stripping, or anything. It is a LOCK NUT that much be turned with a wrench the entire way off, no matter what climate you live in. But for sure, it is almost easier breaking the nut loose than it is un-threading it off the stud.
3- I am totally open to the idea that rust builds up in the threads, which is why with the studs are rusty you need to hit them with some penetrating lube and remove them slowly.
I am sure that a few people have enough of a problem where the nut simply won't come off or the allen hole get stripped. I am also suspecting that stripping is mostly the result of using improperly sized or inadequate quality tools. Use the right tools the right way and you really should not have a problem getting these off.
Marcus
I could be wrong, but let me elaborate.
1- There is a 14mm locknut and a 5mm allen hole in the stud for the link. The proper removal procedure is to put the wrench on, but the allen key in, and turn the nut with the wrench while holding the stud still.
2- Once you get the nut loose, it must be turned with a wrench the entire way off the stud. IT IS NOT SEIZING. It isn't sticking, stripping, or anything. It is a LOCK NUT that much be turned with a wrench the entire way off, no matter what climate you live in. But for sure, it is almost easier breaking the nut loose than it is un-threading it off the stud.
3- I am totally open to the idea that rust builds up in the threads, which is why with the studs are rusty you need to hit them with some penetrating lube and remove them slowly.
I am sure that a few people have enough of a problem where the nut simply won't come off or the allen hole get stripped. I am also suspecting that stripping is mostly the result of using improperly sized or inadequate quality tools. Use the right tools the right way and you really should not have a problem getting these off.
Marcus
07-31-2010, 01:08 PM
#10
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
We know how to take it off, the problem is when rust and road debris gets into the allen hole which then causes it to strip. Believe me, Ive tried it your way. I ended up cutting them off.
It would have been a much better design if Honda had a 14mm fixed nut on the end link side of the shaft so we it would be much easier to break it loose.
It would have been a much better design if Honda had a 14mm fixed nut on the end link side of the shaft so we it would be much easier to break it loose.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 07-31-2010 at 01:10 PM.
08-02-2010, 02:09 PM
#11
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Moog got it right with their design.And to those that said use an impact wrench, that won't work as you need to be able to insert the allen into the bolt.
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