comptech vs. neuspeed
comptech vs. neuspeed
thinking about doing a full suspension upgrade (springs, shocks, sways, tie bar)
choices are full comptech (with koni yellows)
or all neuspeed (sport springs & neuspeed/koni shocks)
WHO GETS YOUR VOTE? much appreciated
i'd like to put 235/40 tires on some 18x7.5 RJ inspyre's, so let me know if rubbing would be an issue with either
ps--i know the comptech will be more $$ but i'm not concerned with that
choices are full comptech (with koni yellows)
or all neuspeed (sport springs & neuspeed/koni shocks)
WHO GETS YOUR VOTE? much appreciated
i'd like to put 235/40 tires on some 18x7.5 RJ inspyre's, so let me know if rubbing would be an issue with either
ps--i know the comptech will be more $$ but i'm not concerned with that
I’m finally having my koni yellow’s put on today after riding OEM Shocks with Comptech Springs/Sways. The ride quality was OK, but I got tired of the bounce and hard bumps.
My suspension will be completed by mid afternoon and at this point will include
Comptech Sways (F&R)
Comptech Springs (F&R) << and rust free
Yellow Koni Sports (F&R)
The order in which I had these installed is shown above. With just the Comptech Sways on, I notice improved handling (less body roll). A few months later I added the Comptech Springs. At this point it was even tighter, but the ride quality went down slightly IMO (bouncy and hard bumps).
I’ll update later with a pic and ride quality difference (before and after). I’m not sure it will tell you what you want, but it’s a review of one side you’re looking for.
My suspension will be completed by mid afternoon and at this point will include
Comptech Sways (F&R)
Comptech Springs (F&R) << and rust free
Yellow Koni Sports (F&R)
The order in which I had these installed is shown above. With just the Comptech Sways on, I notice improved handling (less body roll). A few months later I added the Comptech Springs. At this point it was even tighter, but the ride quality went down slightly IMO (bouncy and hard bumps).
I’ll update later with a pic and ride quality difference (before and after). I’m not sure it will tell you what you want, but it’s a review of one side you’re looking for.
please update when you can because I also have the older Comptech springs on with my stock struts. The ride is fine untill you hit a hard bump or go over a series of small bumps when going fast - feels like the car is going to fall apart! Im sure my bump stops are in pieces now also. So I want to get new struts soon also.
Originally Posted by ou sig
please update when you can because I also have the older Comptech springs on with my stock struts. The ride is fine untill you hit a hard bump or go over a series of small bumps when going fast - feels like the car is going to fall apart! Im sure my bump stops are in pieces now also. So I want to get new struts soon also.
Ok, heres a short write up because i really haven't played that much. I had the dealer keep the back seats at his shop so i can ride the car and adjust until i get the ride i want.
Drive Home - Softest setting. The ride was much smoother, but still not as soft as a stock OEM setup. It's just a tad firmer. The bumps are smoother now, and those little ripples on the highways have been smoothed out and dampened nicely. The dips in the road on the highway are noticable, but not as bouncy as before. The turns on the ramps felt good, but not that much better than before (CT Springs, Sways and OEM Shocks).
Drive to Home Depot - Three quarters of a turn on the dial. I noticed the dials go more than a complete 360 so it's hard to say where i had them set. The bumps were acceptable, but more noticable. The little ripples in the road were more noticable and too much for me. The on/off ramps to the highway were unreal. I was doing 50 on an upward bend and it felt like i was level (no roll) the whole way through.
I am going to have some fun and turn these to the tightest setting next to just experiance the ride. I know i will not settle on this setting because i didn't like the ride when i gave it a 3/4 turn. I just want to play around the bends to see how well these koni's keep me planted

I will most likely settle somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 of a turn.
I’m finally having my koni yellow’s put on today after riding OEM Shocks with Comptech Springs/Sways. The ride quality was OK, but I got tired of the bounce and hard bumps.
My suspension will be completed by mid afternoon and at this point will include
Comptech Sways (F&R)
Comptech Springs (F&R) << and rust free
Yellow Koni Sports (F&R)
The order in which I had these installed is shown above. With just the Comptech Sways on, I notice improved handling (less body roll). A few months later I added the Comptech Springs. At this point it was even tighter, but the ride quality went down slightly IMO (bouncy and hard bumps).
I’ll update later with a pic and ride quality difference (before and after). I’m not sure it will tell you what you want, but it’s a review of one side you’re looking for.
-------
I'm thinking of doing the same setup on my CLP, did you need the Camber kit for the front or rear? Also, how much was the labor for the install?
My suspension will be completed by mid afternoon and at this point will include
Comptech Sways (F&R)
Comptech Springs (F&R) << and rust free
Yellow Koni Sports (F&R)
The order in which I had these installed is shown above. With just the Comptech Sways on, I notice improved handling (less body roll). A few months later I added the Comptech Springs. At this point it was even tighter, but the ride quality went down slightly IMO (bouncy and hard bumps).
I’ll update later with a pic and ride quality difference (before and after). I’m not sure it will tell you what you want, but it’s a review of one side you’re looking for.
-------
I'm thinking of doing the same setup on my CLP, did you need the Camber kit for the front or rear? Also, how much was the labor for the install?
Originally Posted by LouSFO
I'm thinking of doing the same setup on my CLP, did you need the Camber kit for the front or rear? Also, how much was the labor for the install?
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Thanks for the info. The Acura dealers in my area won't do Mods, so I need to take my CL to peformance shop. They quoted me $800 in labor to install the shocks, springs and mount the tires/Rims plus alignment. Seems $$$$ to me.
Also, where is you purchase your Koni's and springs? I've been searching the Net and the best prices for Konis' with Springs are around $700 total.
Thanks
Also, where is you purchase your Koni's and springs? I've been searching the Net and the best prices for Konis' with Springs are around $700 total.
Thanks
Originally Posted by LouSFO
Thanks for the info. The Acura dealers in my area won't do Mods, so I need to take my CL to peformance shop. They quoted me $800 in labor to install the shocks, springs and mount the tires/Rims plus alignment. Seems $$$$ to me.
Also, where is you purchase your Koni's and springs? I've been searching the Net and the best prices for Konis' with Springs are around $700 total.
Thanks
Also, where is you purchase your Koni's and springs? I've been searching the Net and the best prices for Konis' with Springs are around $700 total.
Thanks
If you found both Springs and Koni’s for $700, that’s a pretty decent price for both (parts only).
The labor of $800 to put in Springs and Koni’s and mount/balance/aling is a little high. I just had my koni’s put on for $550 and it’s the same labor to put just koni’s on or Springs and koni’s seeing they have to remove both to do the install. That leaves $250 on the table to mount/balance/align 4 tires. An alignment is about $70 so that leaves $180 to mount/balance 4 tires.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
$800 is crazy. I had springs/struts installed for $200. Mounting/balancing should cost $120 and alignment is another $85.
It wasn't a dealership price, the dealership wanted $400 for springs/struts.
A spring/strut install on our cars is extremely involved. Removing the rear seat is a pain in the ass.
A spring/strut install on our cars is extremely involved. Removing the rear seat is a pain in the ass.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
It wasn't a dealership price, the dealership wanted $400 for springs/struts.
A spring/strut install on our cars is extremely involved. Removing the rear seat is a pain in the ass.
A spring/strut install on our cars is extremely involved. Removing the rear seat is a pain in the ass.
Originally Posted by ou sig
removing the rear seat takes no longer than 5 or 10 minutes in the TL...is the CL rear seat alot different? and you shouldnt pay anymore for a spring only or a spring/strut install. Takes no more time to do either. $100 is the rate I got from a local Honda/Acura shop - and that is what I paid for my springs to get installed (wish I would have had money at time time for new struts also!)
And 100 is rediculously cheap for a shop. Thats what I charge for suspension installs but I have no overhead like a shop does.
i had neuspeed springs, just springs on my cl-s with 19's and lowered it to the absolute perfect height in my opinion, i should of rolled fenders but didnt. no im riding on 20's with stock suspension and it's alright, the gap isnt too huge but i feel more comfortable with my stock stuff anyway. And for the camber kit my mechanic put it in for $20 bucks. The job hard at all but me and my mechanic are tight thats how i get such deals. he installed my suspension last year for $150 because that job is a pain in the ass and i understood that!
Originally Posted by mclarenf3387
Its harder when you have no rear doors. It is a very tight fit.
And 100 is rediculously cheap for a shop. Thats what I charge for suspension installs but I have no overhead like a shop does.
And 100 is rediculously cheap for a shop. Thats what I charge for suspension installs but I have no overhead like a shop does.
I installed the new CT springs (rust free) with the Koni Yellows 1000K miles ago..
the front of the car sits higher in the front...
Front: 2 finger gap
Rear: 0 finger gap.
I am not happy at all... the Compshit springs will be coming off...
the front of the car sits higher in the front...
Front: 2 finger gap
Rear: 0 finger gap.
I am not happy at all... the Compshit springs will be coming off...
no joke.. i will take pics.. I do all my own installs...
I swapped the rusty ass Rust-tech's out and put in there "new and improved powdercoated springs"... the Koni yellows are on the highest perch.. the rear sits lower than the fronts.
Ask notcreative aka:Charlie he has the same problem as me with the rear sagging.
He is getting rid of his Comptech POS springs too and getting Teins.
I swapped the rusty ass Rust-tech's out and put in there "new and improved powdercoated springs"... the Koni yellows are on the highest perch.. the rear sits lower than the fronts.
Ask notcreative aka:Charlie he has the same problem as me with the rear sagging.
He is getting rid of his Comptech POS springs too and getting Teins.
oh and to add insult to injury.. I found out from Astroboy that if you decide to try and put the Koni Yellows on the lowest Perch the dampner pin of the koni yellow will hit the hood on the CL-S when you try and close the hood...
time for a different spring... Comptech Springs are poor quality.
time for a different spring... Comptech Springs are poor quality.
Originally Posted by Sneaky18
i had neuspeed springs, just springs on my cl-s with 19's and lowered it to the absolute perfect height in my opinion, i should of rolled fenders but didnt. no im riding on 20's with stock suspension and it's alright, the gap isnt too huge but i feel more comfortable with my stock stuff anyway. And for the camber kit my mechanic put it in for $20 bucks. The job hard at all but me and my mechanic are tight thats how i get such deals. he installed my suspension last year for $150 because that job is a pain in the ass and i understood that!
is a camber kit required for neuspeed? i'm still up in the air b/t neuspeed, H&R, or teins, and I wasn't planning on getting a camber kit if not necessary.
i would definitly get the kit other wise your tires and wheels begin sitting crooked and your tires will wear uneven, the camber kit straightens them back out. I got a eibach kit for i think it was like $80, so its definitly worth it
ok. forgive me for being stubborn, but a simple alignment won't take care of that? is the drop so severe? (sorry, i don't know exactly what kind of adjustment is available on our cars)
Stay away from comptech springs
I bought the "new" model and returned them after I found out that they are rebadged eibach springs. I choose H&R sports and love them.
Install isn't that hard, it took me and my father about 2.5 hrs, which included stoping for a lunch break. I got a free spring compressor from Autozone as a loaner tool and all other tools required are common. Also the backseat is not a problem to take out at all, mine was out is 5min or less. Bottom snaps out and back is held in by four bolts.
I bought the "new" model and returned them after I found out that they are rebadged eibach springs. I choose H&R sports and love them.
Install isn't that hard, it took me and my father about 2.5 hrs, which included stoping for a lunch break. I got a free spring compressor from Autozone as a loaner tool and all other tools required are common. Also the backseat is not a problem to take out at all, mine was out is 5min or less. Bottom snaps out and back is held in by four bolts.
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