mordor110

Car: 03 CL-S MT 6. 230K miles. Service history unknown. Bought as a cheap beater/fixer upper. Currently working thru' the issues it has.

This issue: Clutch pedal engages clutch right off the floor (i.e about on one inch of travel up from floor) after extended periods of high rpm use. In the Vtech zone 5K and over. Keep it under this it's fine. After being in this high rpm zone, letting car run back at normal cruising rpm (about 3K) clutch returns to normal. (By "normal" I mean clutch bites were it typically does on these cars, I've had 3 of them)

I haven't had time to try anything on it yet. I'm going to start with bleeding it but the only happening at high RPM makes me think something else is going on with it than just needing to be bled or replacing the slave cylinder? Was wondering if anyone else has seen this type of issue? Did a bit of a search, but didn't see any similar problems. Worried the DMF is falling apart or something? Clutch works good BTW, will still scratch 2nd.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

does it get stiff ?? i think your pressure plate is going or throw out bearing i had same issue and after i replaced the clutch it was gone i could see how the pressure plate springs were worn... replace the whole thing with flywheel

gollymeg

I have this issue, once in V-TECH, providing the conditions are right...it doesn't always happen. The clutch will get super stiff and it's kind of hard to press in. My boyfriend works for Honda and has some buddies at Acura. We originally thought it would be my clutch, but whenthis all first started happening it was too soon for the clutch needing to be replaced. It's most likely you clutch master cylinder and slave. That's what we were going to replace. Then he heard form one of his coworkers that some aftermarket company has or is either coming out with the parts w/o the check valve in it. II still have to do some further research on that. If this part does exist, I'll probably go with it. I'm sure it has it's cons, but when i get to that pint i'll know (:

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^its the clutch.
the pressure plate is worn, like what StreetKA said.

I took out the checkvalve in my slave cylinder and it still didnt solve the problem.
it only went away when I changed the clutch

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

at the time i had my cdd removed along with check valve and ss clutch line installed it was still doing it oh and slave cylinder was brand new... i still have that pressure plate in my garage i can post the picture of it the throw out bearing was shot too...

its extremely easy to remove the check valve from your slave cylinder, there is a DIY on how to do it in TL
section... but i dont have a link right now.

my galaxy sucks and it wont paste the link lol

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^I have a 3G TL, so i'm not familiar with the CL's clutch set up.
is it a dual mass flywheel like mine?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

yes it is pretty much the same only differnece is that cl has cdd (clutch dampening device) and 07-08tl-s is slightly different setup but all have dual mass flywheel.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Here is my worn(Heat scored) pressure plate.



I can only assume my throw out bearing was in good condition, as my mechanic didnt change that. I didnt change the flywheel either.
but if fly wheel was worn enough, I would have.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

actually imo its not smart move to spend $400-$500 on the clutch and not to replace the bearings throw out cost iirc $47 or less and that usually part that fails most of the time(depends on the driving habbits and how much stop n go traffic u do) but here only thing you can see its heatspots and i suspect the flywheel to look similar and i think it should be replaced as well not resurfaced(it can be done but you probably gonna get some vibrations to your drivetrain which is gonna drive you crazy).

As of picture you posted i wanted to see the other side where the fork is

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I can only assume what they did.
as, at the time, I didnt know much.

the clutch pedal was displaying much of the same symptoms as above.
getting stiff after a hard RPM run.
finally decided to change the clutch at 31k miles.



I now have 54k miles on her, so I've driven about 20k miles with the new clutch. She drives well, even with my abuse.

gollymeg

This is really good for me to know! Thank you! I honestly had no idea you could just take it out, adn either way if it is the clutch, then that's good to know too (:

and by V-TECH i mean V-TEC

mordor110

Sorry haven't been on here since I posted start of thread. (been busy fixing a CL for a guy at work) Thanks guys (& gal) for the responses. I have a feeling it's related to centrifugal force due to the high rpm only issue, so I think it's probably what StreetKA said, means a clutch job! Have to find time for that now!

I may just bleed and/or maybe replace the slave cyl for the hell of it being as the car has 231K on it anyway. Slave has always been the first to fail on most cars I've had due to being near the heat of the motor probably. I kinda plan on keeping it a while hopefully. (Thinking about doing the 3.5 stroker swap one day if the motor wears out)

mordor110

Yes it does get stiff, and the point of engagement shifts too, like right off the floor. I tried riding the clutch pedal during experimentation and can feel at a certain point the pedal shifts and stiffens up.

I had an Acura Legend once and rebuilt the slave cyl with a kit from Autozone, afterwards it did a simliar thing but was heat related instead, I.E the pedal engagement would shift when the car got hot? Ended up just replacing it with complete OEM slave cyl.

Was hoping not to have to pull the clutch out just yet LOL.

rp_guy

should be the pressure plate as most people have been saying