Before I go on and make myself look like an idiot...

The plastic thing under the front bumper that extends towards the cabin is the splash shield, correct?

Anyways, on my CL, that piece of plastic is currently resembling something that went through a wood chipper several times followed by a quick round in a blender for good measure.

It is cracked, chipped, ripped and torn all over the place and was wondering if I should replace it or if I should just ignore it. If it makes any difference, there is a lot of rain in my area and the puddles are plentiful.

Thanks guys!

 

Semi bump and thread-recycling...the above question still stands...

Anywho...I am looking at a CAI for my CL and was wondering how large the difference between a $50 CAI and a $250 AEM or Injen CAI is. I've been looking on eBay and am a noob at car mods/upgrades...

One thing I do hear is that puddles and CAI's don't mix. Is there anything I could put between the CAI and the abyss it sits in so that my engine does not take a drink every now and again? (Puddles are present 9/10 of the year)

 

Its all just a tube. The only difference is CARB legality (doesnt matter to you being in Canuckistan), and the filter type.

There are bypass valves available for intakes as well.

 

Is CARB legality some sort of emissions restriction? If so, in BC it very much matters as without a "BC Air-Care" pass, you cannot get insurance, and therefore cannot drive (unless you want a $1.3k fine and points to your license)

Would I then be fine with a $50 CAI?

 

Since I am in the business of recycling threads now...

What kind of "maintenance" should I do on a 01 CL with no prior service records with 232,800KM (~144,500 MI)?

I've done Ball-Joints, Tie-Rod (inner and ends), oil change less than 1000km ago, and will replace the rear rotors and pads, but what do I need to do to the engine/engine area?

 

Have you read through the FAQ? Lots of helpful information....
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/%2A%2A%2A-official-2nd-gen-cl-information-thread-%2A%2A%2A-480087/

 

#5 on the link below:

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no


Things to think about at 144K:

Front wheel bearings
Motor mounts
Timing Belt
lower control arm inner/outer bushings
radius rod bushings
brake fluid
power steering fluid
upper/lower radiator hoses
EGR port cleaning

 

Yes I had looked over that thread, searched this site and Google searched but nothing I found went over the 9 years/120,000mi service. I was also inquiring about what else I should do besides that service that the manual outlined since I have no maintenance records available so i do not know what was done to the car.

Thanks!

 

Trans fluid change
Cabin air filters
Spark plugs
The 105K service is not cheap. Since you don't know if it took place, well that could get expensive. How much do you want to dump into the car? It's an auto to so the trans may fail at any time.
Maintenance per say on the CLS isn't a major thing to begin with. Most do just oil changes & the air filter changes basically for 100K miles.
How it's drive now?

 

My splash shield was torn up, bent and had plastic "hairs". I cut all the thin slivers of plastic off, used a heat gun to soften the plastic and used body dolly to iron it back in shape. A block of wood would've worked too. Then I drilled tiny holes along the tears about an inch apart and sewed it together with stainless steel saftey wire. I bought the push rivets (clips) off of ebay, 20 for $4.79. Now it looks like Frankenstein but I don't care. I'm just too cheap to buy a new one. I would've left it alone but my car is lowered and it was always scraping over slight bumps and driveways.

 

It drives fine minus a slight pull to the right (KalTire claims frame damage), The trans feels solid, took it in for the recall over the 2nd gear about four days after I bought it and they said it was fine and just slapped on the oil jet kit. Always starts the first time, doesn't sputter or stall, no exhaust leaks that I can detect. I just wanna make sure that my, or the previous owner's negligence doesn't kill the car.

(Mainly because when it's time comes, I am either going to trade it in or 50 cal it to shreds, the latter if I am offered < 3k for it on trade )

On a more mechanical note, how can one tell if the timing belt was done recently?

 

The pulling to the right happened for me too.... Put on new tires and got an alignment (it didn't need much) but that has seem to correct my problem with the steering to the right so if it needs to be done or you have some extra money to throw into it I would try that

 

Im taking it to the dealer's mechanic who will hook me up with a "real" alignment and who will tell me if the KalTire myth that I have frame damage is true. This will probably happen sometime in the next week or so.

 

Speaking of KalTire,

I took my CL in on the 5th of April and since then my steering has been intermittently cutting out. It had previously occured once the day after I had them fix it, I figured it was a pothole that I hit while I was turning (we have some decently sized ones around here). The second, third and fourth times this occured was while I was turning, it was rainy so I figured that the CL has horrid understeer (on almost new Michelins going at 25km/h).

Today within 300m it happened twice, going down a steep hill that ends in a T intersection with very welcoming concrete barriers at the end, my car failed to turn and kinda plowed towards the barriers...I did manage to stop it in time (thank god for ABS) it happened again while I was taking a turn to go towards my school, at 40km/h (if a kia wagon could do it at 60, this car can handle it...) and again it failed to turn.

Now the work that was done was
-Tie Rod End
-Left Inner Tie Rod
-4Wheel Alignment
-Both front Lower Ball Joints
-Passenger side Caliper (they ripped the threads out of the old one when they took off the caliper)

Now is this something that the mechanic derp'd on really bad, or am I looking at a much more serious problem?

Taking it into KalTire to have them fix the problem (under warranty, the only reason I'm going back there) sometime soon, just want to know some ideas ahead of time in case they try to screw me over or BS their way around the problem again/ blame someone else.

 

From the above picture, I seem to be missing parts 13 and 16. For 13, the part number is listed on the site, but where can I find the part number for item 16? It is the tray thing that sits between the heated seat switches.

 

Youre looking for number 12, not 16. 16 is 6MT only.

 

Before I buy anything, I'll post a picture just to double check.

 

No need.

The 6MT uses a larger "pocket" because we:

1) Dont have the heated seat buttons there (due to the shift cables)
2) Don't have the OBDII port there

The '01 uses the smaller pocket with the heated seat switches next to it.

#13 is the ODBII door. It only fits into #12 (you can also see the little holes where the heated seat buttons fit).

 

PN for #12 is 77288-S0K-A01ZA btw.

Dspr: Listen to Morgan.

 

I would trust him with my car, I just want to make sure its the right part since I already have the heated seat switch cover, its the OBD sensor that is showing.




LOL! That might be a quarter under the OBD port XD

 

All you need is #13.

 

Thanks! And I didn't doubt you, I just didn't want to have my shitty description cost me more money than I needed...

 

Completely understood.

 

So I just called my local Acura dealer and when I asked for their price, the friendly rep said "It's only $49.95". I hung up.

 

Are you sure you gave 77289-S0K-A01ZA as the part number? MSRP is only 19.27 USD.
Or you can order it from Curry Acura: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/ind...&siteid=214999

15 bucks and change with free Fed-Ex shipping (not sure if is free too)

 

I will probably do that, the oemacuraparts site does not allow shipping to non-billing address addresses. Which sucks because the shipping price to my US mailbox is about $25 difference (roughly 2x the cost of the items).

Thanks for the site

 

No problem. If you need parts in a hurry, see if your dealer can price match. You'll probably need to print out the invoice showing the free shipping too.
I order from Curry whenever I need parts unless Kaleb (wholesalepartsguy) can beat their prices.

Don't forget to thank my post as well

 

So got one more question...

THIS

Would that work on the stock exhaust? My flex pipe is unraveling and its about $82
for that eBay flex pipe and the labor to install or $300 plus labor for the section of piping that connects the Cat to the OEM "Headers" and is an Acura OEM part.

The eBay flexpipe is :

It wouldn't be the end of the world if I bought it and found out that it didn't fit since its only $20 but I'd be very happy if I can fix the exhaust for $80 instead of $300...

 

You maybe able to find your part here:
http://www.mypartshop.com/

Or call a local junk yard & see if there are any CLs in their lot.

 

I already ordered from Curry Acura Parts, was about the same price and FedEx to Canada was $8. $25.27 with shipping for the OBD Cover and the clock light.

Anyone have any clue about that flex pipe in my previous post?

 

just buy some aftermarket headers. You fix the problem and gain some h/p.

Or here are some oem headers from a guy in missisauga https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/cl-s-oem-parts-headers-downpipe-mufflers-grille-849258/

 

Unfortunately, both routes cost several times more than just buying the flex pipe. Increased power is not something that is high priority for me since I more than likely need to do the 105k service. Headers also mean more work and that means paying my mechanic more to install them (I cannot for the life of me do mechanical work on vehicles).

The headers from the AZine user may be in Canada but shipping will run upwards of $75 so I'd be better off getting a brand new Acura OEM part through the mechanic (same day delivery and installation too) since at best, the price difference will be $20.

I just need to know the dimensions of our stock flex pipe (how long it is, how long the woven portion is and the dimensions of the pipe) to ensure compatibility with the eBay item.

 

Same thing happened to my 2002. It doesn't pull at all now other than if I really stand on it.

 

Did you accidentally quote yourself there?

I did a tire rotation about a week or two ago and the pull changed direction and now pulls to the left as strong as it pulled to the right, rolling the wheels along a level garage floor resulted in 3 of the 4 wheels wobbling harshly and falling over. There is little tread left on them (enough for another 10k km, 15k tops) so they will get replaced if I end up keeping the car.

Anyone have any idea on the dimensions of the stock flex-pipe?

I know headers are the strongly recommended option as has been stated several times, but I need a quick and cheap fix and I am not ignoring you guys, it's just that headers are not the most "cost effective" option for me as I will need to do the 105k service and new tires with the possibility of new wheels as well (if mine are bent) prior to a long USA road-trip I will be doing in July-August.

If anyone is going to be under their car anytime soon or has their stock exhaust lying around, pretty please take a measurement or two for me? :battingeyelashes:

I appreciate the advice you guys are giving, thanks!

 

Anyone on the Flex Pipe?

Also, what kind of work is required to install a C.A.I? Probably gonna pull the trigger next paycheck and want to make sure that I am somewhat prepared...

My biggest question is "what do with rubber tubes" that are provided?