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Take a, IIRC, 13mm box end, place it on the #19 jack screw lock-nut.
Place a 4mm allen key into the #7 jack screw (fuel pressure adjustment screw).
Holding the allen key tight, break loose the 13mm jack screw locknut.
Turn the allen key counter-clockwise to reduce pressure, clock-wise to increase.
Holding the allen key firm to prevent the jack screw from moving, tighten the jack screw lock-nut. Be careful and not tighten it to tight!
Take a, IIRC, 13mm box end, place it on the #19 jack screw lock-nut.
Place a 4mm allen key into the #7 jack screw (fuel pressure adjustment screw).
Holding the allen key tight, break loose the 13mm jack screw locknut.
Turn the allen key counter-clockwise to reduce pressure, clock-wise to increase.
Holding the allen key firm to prevent the jack screw from moving, tighten the jack screw lock-nut. Be careful and not tighten it to tight!
I know how to adjust the fuel pressure on the FPR, but what I was referring to was that the fuel pressure is higher than I thought and STILL running lean which only means I need to get bigger fuel injectors.
I know how to adjust the fuel pressure on the FPR, but what I was referring to was that the fuel pressure is higher than I thought and STILL running lean which only means I need to get bigger fuel injectors.
Interesting, was your friend you bought the kit from running a stock throttle body on his Accord or the larger 76mm one like yours?
I only ask because, if you had not adjusted the FP at the regulator before installing on your car with the larger TB, I wonder what his FP was, with the same FPR adjustment, using a stock TB & injectors?
Or was he using the higher flow injectors? I can't remember at this point
How are you monitoring fuel pressure? Just curious.
Interesting, was your friend you bought the kit from running a stock throttle body on his Accord or the larger 76mm one like yours?
I only ask because, if you had not adjusted the FP at the regulator before installing on your car with the larger TB, I wonder what his FP was, with the same FPR adjustment, using a stock TB & injectors?
Or was he using the higher flow injectors? I can't remember at this point
How are you monitoring fuel pressure? Just curious.
He was running the stock TB, and he didn't know what the fuel pressure was because he never asked or tested it. But I'm assuming the fuel pressure was the same as mine thus the reason why they ran a heavy duty fuel line to the tank probably because they were afraid of the stock one bursting. All I did to test the fuel psi was put a T-fitting with a gauge on the hose in between the rail and regulator. Just revving it up in my driveway it hit 70 psi, so I'm not sure if the psi would reach higher by flooring it on the street, but I couldn't imagine if a line burst how much fuel it would spray everywhere. A fire extinguisher mount will be my next mod....lol My question is, all these people who are running a S\C, are they all running stock injectors? If some upgraded, what injectors are they running? I was thinking of trying out those RC Racing injectors I got. At 50 psi they are 400 cc, so if I turned the psi down to 45 psi they should be around 375 cc. Remember, my stock ones were 275 cc at 50 psi, and at idle they are at 53 psi and go as high as 70 psi which might make them 350 cc. I don't know, too much math and science involved, I should have paid more attention in math and science class 15 yrs ago...lol
Fuel pressure will rise as the engine increases in speed. That's what a rising rate FPR does.
For example, when I initially start my car in the morning, my boost gauge measures in at -20 vacuum with 14.1 charging volts, measured on my ScanGaugeII. Fuel pressure comes in at around 34psi at idle cold start. When I drive off, especially in stop n go traffic, the FP increases as I rev through the gears to attain the posted speed limit, let's say 60mph. When at the posted speed limit and cruising, my vacuum usually reads at -20. Fuel pressure settles in around 31-34+ psi. Now if I want to get around slower traffic and increase the throttle, FP rises.
My gauge set-up looks like the picture on the link below:
If I go down a gear (5th) and go WOT, FP shoots up to 100psi, and boost increases as well to around 5-6psi. 100psi is the limit of measurement on my FP gauge. Upon shifting into 6th gear again and settling back into a cruising speed, 60mph, vacuum settles down again to around -20+ and FP settles in again between 31-34+psi.
So when sitting in the driveway at idle and you rev the engine, the FP is supposed to increase, nothing will 'burst'. The rising rate FPR and Walbro are doing the job of supplying more fuel upon demand.
Fuel pressure will rise as the engine increases in speed. That's what a rising rate FPR does.
For example, when I initially start my car in the morning, my boost gauge measures in at -20 vacuum with 14.1 charging volts, measured on my ScanGaugeII. Fuel pressure comes in at around 34psi at idle cold start. When I drive off, especially in stop n go traffic, the FP increases as I rev through the gears to attain the posted speed limit, let's say 60mph. When at the posted speed limit and cruising, my vacuum usually reads at -20. Fuel pressure settles in around 31-34+ psi. Now if I want to get around slower traffic and increase the throttle, FP rises.
My gauge set-up looks like the picture on the link below:
If I go down a gear (5th) and go WOT, FP shoots up to 100psi, and boost increases as well to around 5-6psi. 100psi is the limit of measurement on my FP gauge. Upon shifting into 6th gear again and settling back into a cruising speed, 60mph, vacuum settles down again to around -20+ and FP settles in again between 31-34+psi.
So when sitting in the driveway at idle and you rev the engine, the FP is supposed to increase, nothing will 'burst'. The rising rate FPR and Walbro are doing the job of supplying more fuel upon demand.
Hope that helps,
Great write-up Zeta! This helps me a lot! Reading your post just makes me wonder why mine is running lean with more fuel psi. Maybe I just don't have enough time on those spark plugs to really be able to tell. I just ordered an AEM AFR gauge part #30-4110. Need to know now where my air\fuel ratio is.
Great write-up Zeta! This helps me a lot! Reading your post just makes me wonder why mine is running lean with more fuel psi. Maybe I just don't have enough time on those spark plugs to really be able to tell. I just ordered an AEM AFR gauge part #30-4110. Need to know now where my air\fuel ratio is.
Would'nt the ECU throw a code if you were running either to lean or rich? I'm pretty sure it would; however, I'm not sure because I have not experienced one, lol. Since you don't have a baseline FP, based on your friends set-up to reference, it is hard to tell IF or WHY you may be running lean. Who knows how the additional influence/variables of a higher psi S/C'er pulley combined with the larger 76mm TB will have on your overall current condition, if at all. That's where the skill sets of the experienced tuners come in.
Nevertheless, drive the car around for a bit and break in that clutch. How hard? LOL! That's to your descretion, of course, hehe. Look for codes, listen for knock. You are on your way to bad-ass power, for a V6, next stop tuners-ville, hehe.
I was just actually messing around with my car and noticed that at an idle the fuel pressure is right at 52 psi, then when you rev it it jumps to 70 psi but if you keep the throttle open it actually drops back down to 52 psi and stays there the whole time even if you throttle it up. So I was wrong, it only shoots up to 70 psi for a second then drops to 52 psi afterwards and stays there. I might bump the pressure up to 55-60 psi and see how it runs.
I might bump the pressure up to 55-60 psi and see how it runs.
I want to tell you not to go to 'pig-rich' with your FP adjustments (no higher than 40psi at idle), then I remember that your set-up, in psi, is in between that of an alt. HBP (5-6psi) and a max SC'er HBP (9-11?psi) like the one Marcelechka used to attain his record, though he had a tune. Maybe you need FP to be higher than 40 or 50 or 60.
Hopefully, during the week ahead he will come in and give you some input, sans a tune, as to what you should set yours at idle to be safe.
In addition, I looked in the Helms manual for the lean/rich codes and they are P0171 and P0172 respectively.
Just throwing it out there as a thought, how do the ends of your tail pipes look? Are they overly sooty with carbon which may indicate a rich condition?
I want to tell you not to go to 'pig-rich' with your FP adjustments (no higher than 40psi at idle), then I remember that your set-up, in psi, is in between that of an alt. HBP (5-6psi) and a max SC'er HBP (9-11?psi) like the one Marcelechka used to attain his record, though he had a tune. Maybe you need FP to be higher than 40 or 50 or 60.
Hopefully, during the week ahead he will come in and give you some input, sans a tune, as to what you should set yours at idle to be safe.
In addition, I looked in the Helms manual for the lean/rich codes and they are P0171 and P0172 respectively.
Just throwing it out there as a thought, how do the ends of your tail pipes look? Are they overly sooty with carbon which may indicate a rich condition?
I haven't got any CEL yet, and I've been driving it quite a bit so I hope your right about getting a CEL if it runs too rich\lean. As far as the psi I'm just going to leave it alone where its at now. Seems to be running real good, but I think I need to get a Gator belt for the S\C. It slips occasionally more now.
I haven't got any CEL yet, and I've been driving it quite a bit so I hope your right about getting a CEL if it runs too rich\lean. As far as the psi I'm just going to leave it alone where its at now. Seems to be running real good, but I think I need to get a Gator belt for the S\C. It slips occasionally more now.
Quote from the thread below:
Originally Posted by mrsteve
There's two different sizes of belts that will work. The larger of the two is sometimes required for the high boost pulley.
The 4040245 is a 24.5" belt. The 4040252 is a 25.2" belt.
Both belts will work with either pulley it just is a pain in the ass at times to squeeze on the 24.5" belt over the larger high boost pulley.
I'm going to try and find that 24.5" in a gator belt make. Thanks for that info! I have a few pics of that guys Accord with the J32a2 engine and 6-speed swap if anyone is interested. VERY clean and good running car, even without his S\C ......He's asking $6,000. Lives in Riverview Florida. He came over today so I thought I'd help him sell his car.
Damn, thanks Zeta! Your really quick on your answers! I will order that belt now. I just hooked up my boost gauge tonight, so tomorrow I will see what kind of boost it's making.
I installed the boost gauge today and tried it out. I remember the guy that sold me the S\C said that it never worked right, but he didn't install it so I thought maybe it wasn't installed right. So when I tried it I installed the vacuum line in both places shown in the pictures below and both times the boost went to 4 lbs then dropped to 1 instantly, but the car keeps pulling hard. So, I'm assuming maybe I didn't install it right, but where else would that vacuum line go? On the bottom pic its "T"d off the bypass valve on the S\C. On the top pick it was also "T"d off the Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, but the pic doesn't show that because I already disconnected it and just put the FPR line back on the IM
Not sure what kind of gauge you are using; as a result, I'll try to paint a picture of how mine is assembled.
First, my autometer #5776 is mounted on the A-pillar as shown in the link below and wired for power in the driver side fuse box. The wiring harness is snaked down the A-pillar through the firewall into the engine compartment. 2-1/16" BOOST/VACUUM, 30 IN HG/15 PSI, PHANTOM
_ http://www.gaugepods.com/acuracl.html
_
The nylon tubing from the gauge kit is T-fitted into the rubber vacuum line at the blower by pass valve, just like your second picture above. The nylon tube with the supplied female adapter is fastened onto the male port of the 'sensor', map, 2 bar unit shown on the link below: SENSOR, MAP, 2 BAR, REPLACEMENT, 15 PSI VAC/BOOST GAUGE
_
The 'sensor' unit is cable tied to the strut bar with the male electrical end of the boost gauge plugged into the female receiving end of the 'sensor' unit.
My boost gauge is T'd off of the manifold vacuum line like in your first pic I'm pretty sure.
Yeah, I ended up putting it back to the way you have it. Not sure if this digital boost gauge has something wrong with it, but I might try an analog gauge to see if anything changes
Not sure what kind of gauge you are using; as a result, I'll try to paint a picture of how mine is assembled.
First, my autometer #5776 is mounted on the A-pillar as shown in the link below and wired for power in the driver side fuse box. The wiring harness is snaked down the A-pillar through the firewall into the engine compartment. 2-1/16" BOOST/VACUUM, 30 IN HG/15 PSI, PHANTOM
_ http://www.gaugepods.com/acuracl.html
_
The nylon tubing from the gauge kit is T-fitted into the rubber vacuum line at the blower by pass valve, just like your second picture above. The nylon tube with the supplied female adapter is fastened onto the male port of the 'sensor', map, 2 bar unit shown on the link below: SENSOR, MAP, 2 BAR, REPLACEMENT, 15 PSI VAC/BOOST GAUGE
_
The 'sensor' unit is cable tied to the strut bar with the male electrical end of the boost gauge plugged into the female receiving end of the 'sensor' unit.
That's pretty much it.
I believe the boost gauge I have is the AEM 30-4406
I'll mess with it a little and see if I can figure out why the boost goes to 4 psi for a tenth of a second then quickly drops down to 1 psi, as the car keeps pulling hard...I just know it's not accurate.
Also, I just ordered an AEM air\fuel ratio gauge part #aem 30-4110. My question is, do I have to weld a new bung on my downpipe for that sensor to screw into or can I use 1 out of 2 bungs that are already on my exhaust? There's one before and after the catalytic converter. But if I use one of those, what do you do to the O2 sensor that you remove?
Okay, so now I have it routed back to how I had it. The first picture shows the boost gauge vacuum connected to the T that is connected to the IM, and the vacuum line on the bottom of the T goes to the FPR and the purge valve ( I think that's what it's called but it's on the third picture ). The second picture shows another T that the bottom of the T goes to the FPR and the other side goes to that purge valve. On the third picture you can see the purge valve and the vacuum lines to the left of it. One vacuum line goes straight to the purge valve and the other one leaves the purge valve and is wide open, it used to connect to the front motor mount but now is disconnected since I put Innovative motor mounts and it doesn't use that vacuum line anymore. My question is do you think that purge valve needs to be eliminated or maybe the vacuum line plugged at the end.
Ok, so now I just plugged up that vacuum line that used to go to the front motor mount that comes off of that purge valve. Now the boost gauge is steady at 3 - 4 lbs psi at WOT. Is that all this supercharger is really putting out with that HBP? Or is it not still reading right on the boost gauge somehow? I wonder if that purge valve has something to do with the PSI on the boost gauge reading lower-than-expected. Also, in case if you're wondering I do have an aluminum crank pulley but it's the same diameter as the stock one so I would think with this HBP it should be closer to 7 psi
are you sure you don't have the regular pulley? I can't remember if we covered that already. My gauge is analog, so it's harder to tell, but it looks like I hit 3.5 psi and I have the standard pulley.
For the wideband O2 you need to weld on a new bung before the cat. The first O2 (primary) is what the ECU uses. The second is just to check if the cat is working. Welding one is best, but you can use one of these: No-Weld O2 Sensor Mounts | AEM
That's just to show you a pic, I'm sure you can shop around for cheaper ones.
are you sure you don't have the regular pulley? I can't remember if we covered that already. My gauge is analog, so it's harder to tell, but it looks like I hit 3.5 psi and I have the standard pulley.
For the wideband O2 you need to weld on a new bung before the cat. The first O2 (primary) is what the ECU uses. The second is just to check if the cat is working. Welding one is best, but you can use one of these: No-Weld O2 Sensor Mounts AEM
That's just to show you a pic, I'm sure you can shop around for cheaper ones.
Thanks gnuts, I'll check out that link you sent on the bung. As far as my S\C pulley it's 3.33". Those numbers are stamped on the pulley itself. I also measured it and it's exactly 3.33" which should make that a HBP if I'm not mistaken
The guy on the youtube video below had problems with his AEM boost gauge and it turned out to be 'power supply' related. Check out his video then look at the response he left for the first comment:
_
"the issue was the power supply. the power wire I used doesn't stay constant during cranking and the gauge would reset. so swapped power wire sources to a constant during cranking and problem solved."
It also might be something to do with the boost gauge sensor and/or the gauge itself. The AEM Tech Support line is 310-484-2322; ext. 303.
*On a side note, I did a 400 mile total round trip today up and down I-95 and averaged about 27.1 mpg @ 75mph. MPG's would of been slightly better had no boost been involved, hehe.
The guy on the youtube video below had problems with his AEM boost gauge and it turned out to be 'power supply' related. Check out his video then look at the response he left for the first comment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQR4Kv8y1XI
_
"the issue was the power supply. the power wire I used doesn't stay constant during cranking and the gauge would reset. so swapped power wire sources to a constant during cranking and problem solved."
It also might be something to do with the boost gauge sensor and/or the gauge itself. The AEM Tech Support line is 310-484-2322; ext. 303.
*On a side note, I did a 400 mile total round trip today up and down I-95 and averaged about 27.1 mpg @ 75mph. MPG's would of been slightly better had no boost been involved, hehe.
Damn Zeta, you have more answers than my Amazon Echo Dot!! Screw Alexa, I'm just going to ask you now. LOL Nice find, but I think I have a good power source. I'll check it again and maybe just run the power wire to a fuse somewhere. 400 miles on I-95? Where the heck did you drive to? You probably drove by my house...where are you located at? I'm over in New Port Richey
Damn Zeta, you have more answers than my Amazon Echo Dot!! Screw Alexa, I'm just going to ask you now. LOL Nice find, but I think I have a good power source. I'll check it again and maybe just run the power wire to a fuse somewhere.
I went to the AEMelectronics.com website an searched for the install instructions for the #30-4406 gauge.
"Connect the red wire to switched +12V. Connect the black wire to a known good ground."
The instructions on my autometer gauge says something similar, IIRC. Then I searched the interwebs for install intructions for your AEM gauge and came across that video above. At the time I thought 'maybe that is the problem'. That the power must be constant at the time of cranking, or as they say a 'switched +12V', or it sends the gauge into some kind of 'reset' tizzy and won't function correctly.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
400 miles on I-95? Where the heck did you drive to? You probably drove by my house...where are you located at? I'm over in New Port Richey
No, 200 miles up and back, hehe. Some relatives live up in Central Florida. So I did a quick 'jet' up there and back from S. FL. They are still working on I-95 south of Palm Bay to around Indrio, so there is a lot of construction and 60mph speed zones and such. Plenty of Troopers putting the laze on ya to, hehe. They didn't get me though.
Also, I located the power source from the boost gauge to a fuse and it didn't change anything. Maybe it's only putting out 4 pounds of PSI?? There is a little belt slippage so I'll try it again once I get that Gator belt.
Also, I located the power source from the boost gauge to a fuse and it didn't change anything. Maybe it's only putting out 4 pounds of PSI?? There is a little belt slippage so I'll try it again once I get that Gator belt.
Sorry to hear, just trying to troubleshoot here.
When the belt slips, what is it that you notice occurring to attribute it specifically to the SC'er belt? (Noise, vibration etc.)
When at idle with the current power supply, does the digital read of the gauge come in somewhere around -20 Vac. in-Hg? Then when you accelerate into boost, as you say, it sweeps the range and tops out at 4psi?
If so, then it may be functioning correctly and all you got was 'fed a sales line' of 6-7psi from your buddy, where in reality, 4psi with the 3.33 SC'er pulley is the true result. If I remember correctly, he told you that he tried to hook it up; however, was unable to get it to work properly. Therefore, I wonder how he came to the conclusion, after all, that he was putting out the 6-7 psi expressed in his claims?
If not, the problem could be with the 'sensor' sending unit or the gauge itself. Could your boi have dropped it or something in its life, perhaps? As you know, gauges, especially the digital ones, are sensitive metering devices; so, if it was mishandled, accidentally of course, it may just be out of calibration or the sending unit defective. If the gauge came inclusive with the price of the kit from him, net/net, it is an unrealized loss where, in order to really know what psi level you can achieve, you might have to 'spring' for a new boost gauge to really find the max psi result.
He told me that the shop who built the motor and installed everything in his car had their gauge on it and it read 6 psi while they were dynoing it and it made 325 whp. When I floor my car the belt eventually starts to squeal while the boost gauge reads no more than 4 PSI. So today I decided to tighten the belt once more as best as I could and now every time I floor it, it goes up to 5 PSI. So that's telling me that it has to do with the belt slipping. I got the Gator belt delivered today but it was the wrong size, they screwed up the part number so once I get that Gator belt it might hit 6psi
If you think about it, this is the simple logic to my reasoning. IF:
gnuts has stock crank pulley size + 3" base alt. pulley + 4" base SC'er pulley = 3.5 psi as stated in his avatar.
2ndgentl has stock crank pulley size + 3" base alt. pulley + 3.33" SC'er pulley = 4 psi, a 1/2 psi increase over gnuts does not reconcile unless something is wrong. Since the boost gauge issue has been corrected, now the focus is on the slipping/worn belt, which yielded a 1 psi increase with an adjustment like you stated.
zeta has stock crank pulley size + 3.275" HBP alt. pulley + 4" base SC'er pulley = 5.5psi with an occasional 6psi.
IF 2ndgentl had stock crank pulley + 3.275" HBP alt. pulley + 3.33" SC'er pulley = higher probability of 7-9psi
Does anyone know what type of oil is recommended for the supercharger and how much does it hold? Zeta....? Lol
The quote below answers your question:
Originally Posted by Allout
Note for Reference:
Spoke with Magnusson and the tech I spoke with told me that our MP62 uses 180ml when fully emptied - 6.09 US fluid ounces. He confirmed that GM Supercharger oil is fine to use.
In addition to the statement above, if you remove the oil via the drain plug while the SC'er is on the car, measure what you take out and then replace the same amount with new oil since the case will not be fully emptied.
I currently have the JB Performance Supercharger Oil with Tribodyn. JB performance rebuilt my M62 back in Dec. 2015 and that is what they refilled it with.
Thanks Zeta! That all makes sense to me, we'll see what happens when I install that gator belt and hopefully the belt won't be slipping anymore. Although, after I tightened it last night and tested it out with a few runs I didn't hear any more belt slippage, but we'll see if it makes a difference with the other belt. I have that oil extractor, so I'll get some of that GM oil and put in what I take out with that extractor.
So I pulled out a spark plug again last night to see how it looks like now that I've been driving the car for a week. Here's what it looked like, and according to the Chart underneath it I think it looks like the optimal plug
I just got my air fuel ratio gauge. My question is where do you guys think is best to mount the bung for the O2 sensor? I'm assuming right before the catalytic converter mounted between 11 and 2 o'clock?
01-14-2017 | 08:02 PM
. 100psi is the limit of measurement on my FP gauge. Upon shifting into 6th gear again and settling back into a cruising speed, 60mph, vacuum settles down again to around -20+ and FP settles in again between 31-34+psi.
I want to tell you not to go to 'pig-rich' with your FP adjustments (no higher than 40psi at idle), then I remember that your set-up, in psi, is in between that of an alt. HBP (5-6psi) and a max SC'er HBP (9-11?psi) like the one Marcelechka used to attain his record, though he had a tune. Maybe you need FP to be higher than 40 or 50 or 60. 
......He's asking $6,000. Lives in Riverview Florida. He came over today so I thought I'd help him sell his car.
so once I get that Gator belt it might hit 6psi
