Since there are various threads I found with questions about OE axles, here is what I found out about the EMPI axles.

I called to question the distributor about the EMPIs not having the dampner on them like the OEMs do. There response was that the EMPIs are solid shafts and the OEMs are hollow shafts.

While this sort of makes sense, there's no data to compare the pros and cons . . . other than OEMs are very expensive compared to what you can get OEs for.

Ruf

 

OEM axles are not hollow.





Thats the axle I snapped. As you can see, they arent hollow. Im pretty sure the reason it snapped is because it rusted underneath the damper and over time kept eating away at it. Then one final launch did it in.

Im running axles without dampers now and Im getting alot of vibrations.

 

Well, so much for that response . . .

I guess we'll soon find out how the EMPIs work out.

 

I will have to replace my axles and bearings in the near future as well. I'm going to go with
newly built CV's from Raxles.com located up in Gainsville FL. Spoke with a guy named Marty and he said for $139.95 each he would build them on demand. He provides a prepaid shipping label (worth $20) to return ship the old cores. Otherwise, there is a charge of $80 ea. if they do not receive your cores. He stated that if there are rubber circular dampers that come with the OEM's that they include them in the build.

When you look at the price of OEM's, which are $600 each the newly built Raxles seem to be a reasonalble alternative IMHO.

I thought about going the 'Chin Lee' route at Advance/Autozone etc.; however, I am older and want to do it right the first time to avoid any potential vibration issues, as stated by civicdrivr above, or ripping everything apart for the sake of re-installing a new china CV even if it is free with a lifetime warranty. That's just me though.

 

I noticed my axles are fairly rusted. Now I am gonna be worried everytime I launch hard.

 

IIRC the axles from Advance are better then the Auto Zone axles, and I believe they are new, not reman. They have the damper on them. Not sure on cost, but Ill be picking up a set soon.

Just be sure to run a bead of silicone around the damper to keep moisture out. Let the silicone set for 24 hours before driving.

 

what are you guys doing to kill your axles? I have never had to replace one on any of my honda's before

 

We're making more horsepower then what was intended.

 

+1 had to replace my axles also in the past. a very hard launch with the supercharger and my axles didnt enjoy it very much.

 

And as I said above, it looks as though water and debris got under the damper on the passenger side axle. Over time it ate away. Then one night when I launched it completely snapped.

 

what if they were made out of carbon fiber...

 

I would think they would be stupid expensive

 

New EMPI axles are installed. Feel fine, and the drivetrain vibrations under acceleration above 50mph are gone. I guess this confirms that I did have at least one that was slightly bent.

Ruf

 

How much did they run you and did they have the rubber isolator on them?

 

Man . . . with your current Avatar I had a hard time replying to you . . .

Anyway, I got mine from this guy on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Drive...item41521ab8c3

Ruf

 

so the price doesnt include the core for old ones which you have to send back to them ?

what was the total they charged you for set

where the F did he get this avatar from... NVM i dont even wanna know

 

Was the rubber isolator on them?

I hacked your Photobucket account and saw a folder called "Family Reunion"

 

With shipping the total price was around $73 or so . . and no core fee.

As for the dampner, these do not have one. They said that theirs are fully balanced and don't need one. I hope they are right. I've driven just over 200 miles with them . . . and up to around 85mph and haven't noticed any vibrations. Additionally, I replaced them because I was having vibrations above 50mph and under upper gear acceleration . . . and that is gone, so hopefully these will hold up.

Ruf

 

Cool. Cuz Im running a set of new (not refurb) Auto Zone axles that dont have the damper and the vibrations are ridiculous.

 

I hope to get my car in to have the tires rebalanced and get an alignment, so we'll see if how it all works out.

Ruf

 

Ruf this may sound nuts but shaking/lugging upon acceleration was happening to me so much that I just left it in auto 4th unless I was going over 70mph, then I could use 5th. Nothing would fix it, nothing. I did tire balance, front end alignment, axles, still there. I finally took it to the local Acura dealer and they drove it with a scan tool hooked up and it was ..............when I recently cleaned the intake manifold upper area of oil I stupidly put that thin gasket on ass backwards! Might have been upside down,whatever. This caused a lean condition i guess and the computer was fighting it. This has happened to two or three other members. So I thought I'd mention it, might help somebody today or down the road.

 

Just installed raxles on both sides. Axles came out and fit back in smoothly. 40 -60 mph and high rpm vibrations are gone. We will see how well they do over time.

 

I'm going this route as well(CLS-6). How do they (the axles from raxles) look in comparison to OEM? Marty quoted $139.99 per side the last time I spoke with him and he stated that they include the round dynamic dampers.

How did you seperate the inboard axle on both sides from the transmission diff.?

The manual states to:
'Pry the inboard joint with a prybar, and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly.'

There are a couple of diagrams showing where to place the prybar and arrows indicating the direction to pry. However, since it is my first time performing this repair, I don't know what to expect upon prying or how much force to apply to separate without damage to the set ring.

Any input would be helpful.

 

Marty charged me 149.99 per side and shipping to Pennsy was ~35. Yes, they include the dampers on each axle.

I used a 2ft prybar to separate the inboard splines from the diff. The only thng you need to do is give a light pry between the differential (drivers side)/ intermediate shaft (pass. side) to separate the circular locking clip from the diff. splines. You will hear a click, then pull the axle out by the inboard shaft.

If you are working off of floor jacks. The only pry point on the drivers side is at the 4 o'clock spot. You will see that there is an lip that stops you from prying from anywhere else.

A ball joint separator (not the pickle fork type), a compressor and good impact gun, and a helper to put the ball joint back into the lower control arm would be help the process

 

skoalpb, thanks for the response and the detail regarding inboard separation of the axles. Now I have an idea of what to expect when I finally get a chance to get around to this repair.

Looks like the price is going up there at Raxles. I better get my butt moving on a plan to get these replaced.

 

raxles are junk. customer service is great though. marty is a great guy.

but mine snapped and broke eventually. better off getting them locally, with lifetime warranty. just walk in and replace.

 

It seems like every OEM and aftermarket axles for our cars are junk. According to a few, you can't win with new ones from Advance Auto and Autozone or the rebuilt ones from Napa. I couldn't find a positive review on any axle manufacturer/distributor on this forum. I went with raxles because a friend (Vdub guy) recommended it. Looks like my friend recommended junk too! Just Kidding! I personally recommend Raxles aleast until mine fail.

eryk, I see your point in getting them local, just convient to pickup and replace.