Novice Power Steering Pump Replacement.

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Old 02-17-2017, 06:51 PM
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Novice Power Steering Pump Replacement.

Changed my PSP out thanks to some of the links on Acurazine, youtube and the autozone instructions. I know for some of you this is no biggie, but being a rookie/novice, I was hesitant to tackle it. What really prompted me was the labor quotes from various mechanics and the mark-ups some of them took on the part. I figured if I really screwed up I could call a mobile mechanic to come bail me out. I did have several mechanics and the autoparts guy listen to the pump and they all said it was more than the notorious O ring that leaks air in causing the reservoir to overflow and pump to whine. Additionally the car still had the original pump at about 116 K.
Pretty much followed these instructions from Autozone
| Repair Guides | Power Steering Pump | Removal & Installation | AutoZone.com
  1. Place a suitable container under the vehicle.
  2. Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
  3. Cover the crankshaft pulley with several shop towels to protect if from spilled power steering fluid.
  4. Disconnect the pump inlet hose (A) and pump outlet hose (B) from the pump (C), and plug them.
    WARNING
    Take care not to spill the fluid on the body or parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
  5. Remove the belt (D) by loosening the pump adjusting nut (E), then remove pump mounting bolts (F), nut (G) and pump. Do not turn the steering wheel with pump removed.


    Fig. Power steering pump mounting-CL models

To install:
  1. Connect the pump outlet hose and inlet hose to the pump. Tighten the pump fittings securely.
  2. Loosely install the pump in the pump bracket with the mounting bolts and nut.
  3. Install the pump belt on the pulley. Make sure that the power steering belt is properly positioned on the pulleys.
    WARNING
    Do not get the power steering fluid or grease on the belt or pulley faces. Clean off any fluid or grease before installation.
  4. Adjust the pump belt adjustment, as outlined in the Engine Mechanical Section.
  5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line and bleed the system.
Pics below with some description are with the pump removed.

The Pencil is sitting on top of the adjustment Nut (E in diagram)


Pencil is on top of the bolt that the bottom nut goes on (diagram nut G) This one is the toughie it's under the pump. To remove was able to get to it from the side with a swivel ratchet. Replacing the nut I went from the front and got it started with my left hand (it took me 15 or 20 mins. of trying with my arthritic right hand to wise up and use my left) then was able to get the socket on there. I found removing the oil dipstick and the front engine cover ( the one that says 3.2 vtec on it helped a bit. Also there is another bolt that is unrelated toward the front of the car that is a inch or so from nut G, be careful not to get it mixed up with nut G when removing. ( I didn't but easily could have).


Now we are pointing at the hole where the upper bolt (F) goes. This one is easy with easy access.


Here we are with pump completely out. I probably should of had my cap back on the reservoir, while doing the work.


Here we are completed. A couple other notes the stem that comes out of the pump ( the one you remove to replace the orange O ring 91345-rda-ao1 ) does not come with the new pump. I replaced that O ring and the upper ones while I had everything apart and the orings did come with the new pump. The pulley also does not come with the new pump, I removed and re installed mine by using this guys method.
Whole video is worth watching, the manual method is at about 6 minutes in.
There are youtuber videos on how to flush the system and also some other threads on Acurazine about replacing the pump. Time wise I researched off and on for a couple hours, spent a couple hours getting bids from mechanics and confirmation that it wasn't just the O ring. I also had to chase the pump to the other side of town since the Oreillys closest to me didn't have one. (Gave autozone first shot but not in stock). Probably total time invested including all above and actual work 8 to ten hours total. The work itself only took about 3 hours for removal and replacement. I think I could do one now in less than two hours if I had the new pump. I appreciate all the folks that post helpful info on here so I hope this helps someone down the line.
The following 2 users liked this post by Humberwho:
3.2cls6speedmt (02-22-2017), frankjnjr (02-27-2017)
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