I'm guessing my tps is messed up so I've seen treads on here saying that u have to replace the whole tb an than j see them for sell by them selves? Ne idea how to or what to do? Thanks also is there repair manual for our cars PDF form or other?

 

tps should just be attached with two screws, and be on the tb towards the front of the car (opposite of where the cables attach), so just take off the beuaty shield and it should be right there,

only thing is if the mounting holes are slotted, then it will need to be adjusted, but if they are round holes then you just screw it on and call it good

 

The screws holding it on are special screws, you need to dremel a slot into them and unscrew it.

Also, why do you guess the TPS is bad?

 

never had to do a tl or cl, every other car i have done has been philips ,
and if it is a security torx, i got those too, so would not really matter to me

 

Well my car acts werid when it's in drive like it wants to take off when I'm on the brake and when it idles werid but I put it in neutral it corrects itself...I switchs gears in werid points of the gear and it stays in a higher gear so it idles low a he'll and had cut off on me

 

might actually be the idle air control valve, which do like to get sticky and not move when needed

 

Agreed. The TPS would cause it to idle funny all the time, not just in gear.

BTW, the bolts on the TPS are the same style as the ones for the ignition lock that connects it to the steering column. The bolt heads sheer off when you apply torque.

Some people replace the screws when they install a new TPS, while the JDM motors use phillips head screws from the factory.

 

those sheer bolts are for security purposes on the ignition lock/steering lock, but don't understand why they be on the tps sensor , if anything i would think they would use security torx to keep people from working on it like on the headlights

also getting off those sheer bolts on the ignition are not really that hard to get off if you got a little time (even like 10 minutes max), but for a criminal, time is everything

 

so should i look to replacing the idle air control valve or should i replace the TPS? and would the IACV make the car cut off? it did this yesterday when i stepped on the gas it didnt see to go and it went below normal 750rpm idle almost to cutoff but than all of the sudden it got gas and went. i wasnt flooring it or nething just driving out of a parking lot.

 

try at least cleaning the iac valve first, and yes it could cut the car ofo, due to the fact it is what allows air to get by the tb at idle so it can idle

 

Well the other day my car hesitated real bad and cut off while I was driving I had just took off from a stopight and press the pedal like normal got to around 40mph and than it jerked hard like it was downshifting but it just cut off in gear so it was just slowing down super fast since it was in gear put it in neutral and coasted to a parking lot. Stopped the car and than put it in park and turned the car right back on weridest thing ever. Not sure what caused it cuz it gave me no sign. Well I have not a clue what could be wrong bcuz no check engine light comes on or nething...any ideas?
I'm going to change the tps and clean the icav if possible..I was also wondering are all Honda/ Acura tps the same all te eBay ones say they r like for every single car. Here's a link I'm not sure if it's for mine it looks just like the one I need.

http://www.rms-usa.com/ProductDetail...Code=BWTPS%2DB

 

CL is known for that you gotta press ur brake a little harder when you are at a stop. I only really notice it in the summer time and I believe, based upon what I have read, that it A/C engage disengagement....

 

I know what u mean that when the a/c kicks on it gives a lil jerk but it doesn't just do it when a/c is on or off

 

that link is ONLY for 4 cylinders, so try looking again, and you said only when you were coming to an idle or were stopped, and a bad tps normally does not cause a car to JUST die, normally it has shitty throttle

anyways it almost sounds like you got a bad ignition switch or something, did you happen to notice when the car died, did all the gauges die too, like stopped working too

 

Bad fuel pump? Main relay?

 

added a couple of words to make it easier to understand

 

Thanks for leting me know about the sensor...

And....Yeah so when it died the guages all went down but all the lights were on. And one thing when I got it the guy sd he had it detailed and it started running a lil werid but he thought that water got on one of the coils... Could it be that one of those switches got wet? & also when I put in my iPod connection to my stock radio it looked like the previous owner split soda where the gear selector is so it fell all inside there

 

Thanks for leting me know about the sensor...

And....Yeah so when it died the guages all went down but all the lights were on.
the lights are not controlled by the ignition switch, but the gauges are (you have to remember to turn the lights off or else your battery dies then, if left on too long)
And one thing when I got it the guy sd he had it detailed and it started running a lil werid but he thought that water got on one of the coils...
the water should be dried out by now (how many months and miles later has it been)
Could it be that one of those switches got wet?
the ignition is inside the car on the steering column, where you put the key in to start the car, so i don't think it got wet unless they hose out the inside too
& also when I put in my iPod connection to my stock radio it looked like the previous owner split soda where the gear selector is so it fell all inside there
soda spilled there will proably cause a sticky shifter and such and maybe where it does not respond to your input in SS mode, but that is about it (not too many things electrical under there, but mostly mechanical stuff)



so by the way it sounds is that your ignition switch is going bad and only will get worse as time goes on

btw: 99 TL's (basically a 4-door CL) were notorious (sp?) for ignition switches going bad, yours is not one, but any ignition switch can still go bad even when there are not recalls and such for it

 

#9



http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit

 

I ment that all the guage lights were on when I sd the lights were all on... And when I sd that the coils got wet was about a month ago... Why would it be an ignition switch if the car comes on fine it just cuts off all of the sudden... And I was thinking one of the igntion switch main relay that people had suggested maybe had gotten wet when they detailed the motor

 

because the problem is intermittent, but also when the switch is cold it works just fine, then as it slowly heats up (from the current passing through it), the contacts spread and lose contact, so no more power, then it all cooled down enough for it to regain contact inside of it.
the ignition switch relay (PGM-FI main relay; it's actual name) is actually up under the dash right above your feet, and not in the engine bay, so that should not get wet ethier

 

It happens than starts back up and runs fine after that wouldn't it happen more often? And what would the hesitaion come from more like a lil rough idle not lopeing

 

It happens than starts back up and runs fine after that wouldn't it happen more often?
it will start to happen more often as the part gets worse, then it will just not start back up at all till it is fixed, (the one on my old accord died out like once when coming home from work one day [had did other times before too], but then it would die immediatly right after it started [as soon as you let go of the key from the start position) so not at all driveable


And what would the hesitaion come from more like a lil rough idle not lopeing
you might have multiple problems then

 

So it's not the immobileizer?

 

when was the immobileizer mentioned , the ecu only checks it when you first start the car, even then all it does is to tell the ecu to allow the engine to start or not

 

Sweet is there a dyi on changing out the main relay I saw the drawing to see the part but I was hoping that I would see a how to or if sum had the service manual link in changing it out.

 

here is a diy:

get a new relay, look under the dash, right above your feet (when on the pedals), look for same looking relay, unplug relay, unhook it from the bracket (kinda tilt it [to unlock the clip], while pushin/pulling it off [can't remember what way it goes]), clip on the new relay, plug in, ALL DONE