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With Ct headers practically unavailable my choices were slim. I kept hearing that xspower headers were the way to go. I have seen some bad Manzo batches before. Maybe they were new and needed to work out some kinks but I contacted Redline360.com and spoke with Alex who was helpful and assured me the batch had only one flex pipe which was a big concern so I ordered. They are an authorized Manzo dealer so Its only $125 plus shipping. Heres the link I ordered my set from: https://www.redline360.com/manzo-hea...l-tl-v6-TP-048
I am very pleased so far for 125 bucks, the welds and quality looks great. Will throw these bad boys on over the weekend and post more. I dont see a point in paying any more for any other brands out there. Without going custom can it really get much better?
6 speed bend all 2" piping except looks 2.25 where the two dowpipes meet before the flex pipe welds look good and smooth no jagged edges everything layed out....was packed good everything was in bublewrapped bags welds smooth on both. they even welded a stainles plate with the Manzo emblem on it.
I cant wait until the morning....stuck at work now
Ill do a before and after audio clip to to see if it makes a sound difference. My exhaust is stock with a mid muffler delete so im hoping i dont end up having to reinstall the mid muffler due to rasp....so far im good but only running an Intake. It really does look like manzo has stepped up their game. Maybe me ordering from a Manzo authorized retailer is the way to go and I would stay away from ebay on a purchase like this.
they really do look quality...ill upload closeups of the welds and to where the pipes weld to the manifold. everything is smooth and looks good. Im not lowered and dont want to lower my car so I dont have to worry about a scraped downpipe but the piping doesn't seem thin at all.
ive broken exhaust pipe welds. nothing to be concerned of, just take the headers off and head to local exhaust shop to get them welded for like $20
so, if you do end up with exhaust leaks from the welds, it's easy to repair. but again, looks like quality pieces
AGREED. Alot of people said to go over welds ect ect...grind down the welds in the 3 to 1 tube but these look fine and Im installing them as is. There is a welding machine even at my buddys shop and he can do exhaust welds but why mess up something that looks just fine IMO.
I'm in as well, for both the install and sound clip. It looks like the only option muffler wise is the Tanabe Medallion. Put both together, and I'll bet it sounds sweet.
I'm in as well, for both the install and sound clip. It looks like the only option muffler wise is the Tanabe Medallion. Put both together, and I'll bet it sounds sweet.
You are correct...would be sweet. Im not wanting to fork out the probobly 800-1000 to get that exhaust though...rite now...but with bolt ons you always want more so who knows what the future holds....i have seen other exausts cheaper but Id want to hear a sound first. anything from a 98-02 accord and a 2nd gen tl should fit with slight modifications to pipe length I would imagine.
true...I checked again and they dont fit perfectly but they are crush rings and not supposed to....Once tightened down shouldnt be any leaks.....im just curious what you did if you didnt use them?
Are you saying DC have a bend to fit the 6speed CLs? if not they only fit the automatics and you should mention that as it could be misleading.
thx for mentionong that...good point. Manzo lists too for only fitting the automatic. I talked to them and they only listed them to fit what they actually tried it on. WE all know bend = good for 6 speed though and others have tried them already as well. I never actually mentioned what I was installing on....an 03 cls 6mt...however some may have seen the thread I made of the cars progress since Ive had it about 9 Months now.
still not installed guys. I parked it for the weekend. Weather sucks.
rainy florida weather....gonna have to be next weekend.... I plan on doing before and after sound clips and im comparing speeds at redline.....right now with just an intake that I doubt is doing much, i hit 60mph right before I redline second and by the top of third im around 90-95 depending on when and how I shifted.
piping is 2.25 inner diameter where it connects to the stock 2" cat.....on my stock pipe it looks to go from 2 inches to a section of inch and a half maybe 3 inches long that connects to the cat.....another bottleneck that should be opened up..
Ill start off by saying Do Not use the hardware that comes with these headers. I would be finished had I not made that mistake.
Also with a car 15 years old the bolts were pretty seized but all of them came out with wd40 and strength except the A pipe to cat bolts....had to torch them off....
so i undid the 02 sensor and got out the upper A pipe flange bolts but the A pipe to cat bolts got cut off.....next i removed and cleaned the exhaust hanger. the exhaust hanger.....i removed and cleaned it but you could leave it attached if you choose. A pipe removed.....the inner diameter of the stock pipe appears to be only an inch and a half thick vs 2 inches on the manzo inlets and 2.25 where it connects to the cat (adapts to stock 2" cat) remove the stock headers....I found the bolts easier to remove from above except for two which i got from underneath. side by sides more side by sides last side by side front headers a breeze the rear you have to finagle into place...
six speed guys must remove studs to clear the oem solid engine mount bracket then install if doing this with the motor In The Car. one A pipe nut in the front and two in the rear stripped the threads and spin in place....I removed the ok ones and left it like this. This is the front. left the rear hanging on as well until tomorrow. tomorrow I will be grabbing six more bolts lock washers and nuts that are thicker to go with the three I picked up today to connect the A pipe back to the cat. in the air....be back tomorrow.
Ill start off by saying Do Not use the hardware that comes with these headers. I would be finished had I not made that mistake.
Interesting, that is exactly what mattcl-s said when he installed his XS-P Headers:
Originally Posted by mattcl-s
First thing i am going to say is whoever thinks using the china crap hardware is a moron! whoever reads this and wants to install headers on their car GO GET NEW HARDWARE! so after about 6 hours i got em installed and it is a 2 person job cant do this by yourself. The part that took us so long I stripped a rear heat shield bolt and after trying to get it off with a gator grip socket(which is a piece of junk) it just rounded it even more so last resort was to cut it off with a dremel. after that everything was a breeze. now putting everything back together was simple just retrace your steps and keep everything loose until it all bolt have been put back in and then tighten everything back up. oh and if you can spray PB blaster on everything its a time saver! After getting everything back installed of course had to taker the car for a rip first thing i noticed it is more of a linier modification not something that will throw back in your seat but i cant feel a difference in acceleration so i am happy with this mod just wish i should have went with my instinct and got new hardware
Originally Posted by mattcl-s
I cant really tell you much about piping dimensions except they fit no problems, and has far as hardware goes GO GET GRADE 8 BOLTS!!! for the headers china metal sucks! don't believe what other people have said on this thread.
Interesting, that is exactly what mattcl-s said when he installed his XS-P Headers:
I know.... I read his thread before and was going to go with xsp's until I decided to go this route and even went to the hardware store to replace the bolts I cut off with a cutting torch....I SHOULD HAVE LISTENED AND GOTTEN 9 OF EACH INSTEAD OF 3. The hardware does suck..... everything else though Ive been happy with and they do fit good. He said it took him six hours. Ive got about 3.5 In it so far (with a buddy).
Anybody else have to remove header studs from the rear to clear the 6 speed mount bracket? You have to remove at least the two closest to the drivers side with this set.
I know.... I read his thread before and was going to go with xsp's until I decided to go this route and even went to the hardware store to replace the bolts I cut off with a cutting torch....I SHOULD HAVE LISTENED AND GOTTEN 9 OF EACH INSTEAD OF 3. The hardware does suck..... everything else though Ive been happy with and they do fit good. He said it took him six hours. Ive got about 3.5 In it so far (with a buddy).
Well, going forward, to say the least, it's good to hear yours and mattcl-s' feedback on the installation experience you had. I would say that the definite 'take away' is, do yourself a huge favor and go buy the proper 'first world' nut/bolt hardware before installing either Manzo's or XS-P.
Originally Posted by Jonathan Hill
Anybody else have to remove header studs from the rear to clear the 6 speed mount bracket? You have to remove at least the two closest to the drivers side with this set.
IIRC'ly, I installed the rear CT-E 6-speed header, back in late 2004, from below without removing any header studs. Although, I do remember that I had to maneuver it around quite a bit to slip it past the rear mount; however, it did go in. If I would have updated my thread on what I did, I might be more help.
IIRC'ly, I installed the rear CT-E 6-speed header, back in late 2004, from below without removing any header studs. Although, I do remember that I had to maneuver it around quite a bit to slip it past the rear mount; however, it did go in. If I would have updated my thread on what I did, I might be more help.
As for taking the studs out -2nd one from the left came out with the nut and if i may have wiggled and took some time I might couldve got it on. theres a little over 1/8th inch of clearance after tightening everything down that I cant even get a camera near its so tight back there. Heres the finished install pics with grade 8 harware all around. I didnt torque to any particular specs just got them almost as tight as I could muscle.
front header connected to flange with grade 8 rear header connected to flange with grade 8 everything bolted up with 02 sensor back in. grade 8 connecting the cat back to A pipe. header temp after a long idle then some revs followed by a spirited drive. I made a video for those wanting a sound clip Ill post next. 214 degrees.....can already see them starting to change color which is kinda cool. like I said DO NOT USE THE HARDWARE THAT COMES WITH THESE you will be sorry. big 4 dollar mistake that costed me a Sat night without the car and an extra 2 hours. total Install time about 5 hours easily coudlve been more if I wasnt at a buddys shop. old stuff....trash? or should I keep it in case something ever cracks as a backup? im not too worried about that. After everything is done they feel solid not to mention they make the engine sound like a monster...... much deeper tone and louder but not obnoxious.... Sounds good. Im happy.
like I said DO NOT USE THE HARDWARE THAT COMES WITH THESE you will be sorry. big 4 dollar mistake that costed me a Sat night without the car and an extra 2 hours. total Install time about 5 hours easily coudlve been more if I wasnt at a buddys shop.
Thanks for the pic of those cheap-ass third world nuts/bolts, the proof is in the pics.
Congrats on the install and enjoy those freer flowing headers!
old stuff....trash? or should I keep it in case something ever cracks as a backup? im not too worried about that. After everything is done they feel solid not to mention they make the engine sound like a monster...... much deeper tone and louder but not obnoxious.... Sounds good. Im happy.
what is that behind the factory manfiold ? is that the old AC compressor ?
what is that behind the factory manfiold ? is that the old AC compressor ?
that is an ac compressor from a ford taurus.....last car to come through my buddys shop....beginnings of a scrap metal pile. My spare ac compressor is indoors.
IIRC'ly, I installed the rear CT-E 6-speed header, back in late 2004, from below without removing any header studs. Although, I do remember that I had to maneuver it around quite a bit to slip it past the rear mount; however, it did go in. If I would have updated my thread on what I did, I might be more help.
As for taking the studs out -2nd one from the left came out with the nut and if i may have wiggled and took some time I might couldve got it on. theres a little over 1/8th inch of clearance after tightening everything down that I cant even get a camera near its so tight back there. Heres the finished install pics with grade 8 harware all around. I didnt torque to any particular specs just got them almost as tight as I could muscle.
front header connected to flange with grade 8 rear header connected to flange with grade 8 everything bolted up with 02 sensor back in. grade 8 connecting the cat back to A pipe. header temp after a long idle then some revs followed by a spirited drive. I made a video for those wanting a sound clip Ill post next. 214 degrees.....can already see them starting to change color which is kinda cool. like I said DO NOT USE THE HARDWARE THAT COMES WITH THESE you will be sorry. big 4 dollar mistake that costed me a Sat night without the car and an extra 2 hours. total Install time about 5 hours easily coudlve been more if I wasnt at a buddys shop. old stuff....trash? or should I keep it in case something ever cracks as a backup? im not too worried about that. After everything is done they feel solid not to mention they make the engine sound like a monster...... much deeper tone and louder but not obnoxious.... Sounds good. Im happy.[/QUOTE]
I stored my factory ones just in case if something ever went wrong
I stored my factory ones just in case if something ever went wrong
Thats what Im doing just in case.....or who know maybe someone locally will bottom out and need an a pipe and ill have one for sale. Im assuming your xsps are holding up fine.....how did my pictures look compared to urs prior to install..... Im just trying to find out if this "all knock offs are made from the same factory" stuff is true. I know that Megan racing makes Manzo for sure. the return address on my package was to Megan not Manzo even.....same california address.
Thats what Im doing just in case.....or who know maybe someone locally will bottom out and need an a pipe and ill have one for sale. Im assuming your xsps are holding up fine.....how did my pictures look compared to urs prior to install..... Im just trying to find out if this "all knock offs are made from the same factory" stuff is true. I know that Megan racing makes Manzo for sure. the return address on my package was to Megan not Manzo even.....same california address.
XS-P are doing fine. your pictures looked exactly like mine when I did the install. my headers came all the way from china
XS-P are doing fine. your pictures looked exactly like mine when I did the install. my headers came all the way from china
wow...all the way from china....maybe that has something to do with the price difference....I remember when xsps were $130 bucks....maybe ssautochrome decided to not keep em in stock and upped the price to cover international shipping. Whats also strange is Megan sells these too but for over 300 as does SR-S
I picked up an SR-S a few years ago from some shop that had it sitting on the shelves forever for $135... same thing the box it came had megan's address.. I think it had megan stickers inside the box as well lol..
I picked up an SR-S a few years ago from some shop that had it sitting on the shelves forever for $135... same thing the box it came had megan's address.. I think it had megan stickers inside the box as well lol..
×z interesting....saw some sr-s on ebay for 330 earlier but they also looked idinical to the manzos, xsps
the china header I have now lasted longer than my comptech... it was mostly likely just dumb luck of mine.. the collector and flex pipe region cracked before I could get it rewelded and the collector enlarged on the comptech.. a lady ran a red and tboned my last 6speed...
the china header I have now lasted longer than my comptech... it was mostly likely just dumb luck of mine.. the collector and flex pipe region cracked before I could get it rewelded and the collector enlarged on the comptech.. a lady ran a red and tboned my last 6speed...
yeah my old one was a san marino red ... I picked up a night hawk black 6 speed with 80k in 2012 for a daily driver... been super reliable outside of the endlinks I keep snapping.. car has 140k on it now.. have had the china headers on there 50k now..
yeah my old one was a san marino red ... I picked up a night hawk black 6 speed with 80k in 2012 for a daily driver... been super reliable outside of the endlinks I keep snapping.. car has 140k on it now.. have had the china headers on there 50k now..
cool same color then.....ive yet to snap an endlink...like actually break one in half but two are bad right now...im getting the initial popping on sharp turns
I was hoping to find a cheaper exhaust option than the Tannabe Medallion. Found a company called Tsudo, but of course they only make an axleback for the TL. Search continues.
Well, going forward, to say the least, it's good to hear yours and mattcl-s' feedback on the installation experience you had. I would say that the definite 'take away' is, do yourself a huge favor and go buy the proper 'first world' nut/bolt hardware before installing either Manzo's or XS-P.
If I would have updated my thread on what I did, I might be more help.
