alexcls02

I was pondering about the way that I drive...

-> Going to work - over 80mph
-> When I have a chance to pass a car - I pass, usually by not-so-gently accelerating, but rather, just flooring it (revs up to 6k) until I pass.
-> In general if I have an opportunity to speed I will take it over 90mph.

So I consider myself an aggressive driver. Now that my car has 100K miles, I was wondering if I could get basic advise on maintenance (and mods) to make sure the car lasts another 2 years at least and I am not being to hard on OEM wear and tear items (like brakes, rotors, pedals, etc).

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

^^^ that's how many people drive their cars...

For me, it just depends on the day. Sometimes I'm relentless

alexcls02

So what do you recommend maintenance-wise?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Id just keep tabs on oil changes. Your driving style doesnt seem that crazy (to me), so the normal interval seems fine. Id be more worried about driving that way with the tranny though.

Oh yea, and speeding tickets.

alexcls02

Thanks, got a new tranny about a month ago. Hope it lasts at least 2 more years. About the tickets... I have a Bel 955

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

lol yes. tickets and tranny would be my only concerns. It is an acura, and from their track record that I've personally seen, they're pretty damn good when it comes to lasting. Many people neglect their hondas/acuras and they still push well into the 200K mark

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I drove my CL that way for 168K miles...
Honestly all u gotta worry bout is the trans...
I just changed the Powersterring fluid at 150K and spark plugs at 150K for the first time.
I used to do a 3quart flush fill on the tranny every 15 K and did a 3x2 once but that did not stop the tranny from going...
just changes my shocks spring and endlinks and RSB at 150K for the first time shocks where dystroyed...
change the brake fluid every year now but did not start till about 100K in use castrol GTLMA and castrol high milage oild every 5K..
engine stil pulls like a champ.. rotors do warp VERY easy...
make sure u do your belts and H2o pump at 105...
check tranny and engine mounts they break easy...

I am a fluid freak now all my fluid is FREsh..
Currently am running Amsoil ATF since I had my tranny rebuilt!

alexcls02

Hey man, great feedback. I am changing my timing belts and H2O pump next week. Also getting some struts probably and adjusting the brakes, I think my caliper my be getting stuck.

Tranny was just replaced about 7k miles ago, hope it keeps going for another 70K

Why special fluid on your last transmission?

celynka

Well there is nothing odd in your driving habbits. Europeans drive twice as agressive and these cars still last ( except tranny ) and their daily "commute" speeds are 120-130mph. Yeah! On German higways sky is the limit!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i drive mine twice as hard and when i have an opportunity to race (drag/ autox) i take it. just watch the oil level, brakes, tire wear. do the 105k service soon so u dont break the belt and destroy ur engine. ppl have gone longer with out changing the belt but some belts snap sooner than others.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

There are some other gaskets and "small " things u shoud replace while u do the H2o and timming belt..(forgot exact parts)..
i WAS GONNA GO oem with the shocks but they where like $80 each and I found aftermarkey B&G shocks+springs for like $460 shipped dropped the car 1 1/2 inches and car body roll is gone while ride comfort stayed the same..
Got the kit off excelerate performance on this site...
I went w/synthetic ATF cuz the oem stuff could not keep the trans going longer then a year even though i change d the fluid every 10-15K so I read alot of great stuff about the amsoil ATF and it was z-1 compatable and my tranny rebuilder recomended it so i gave it a try, can be worste then the honda stuff... It was amsoill or redline ATF so i tried out the amsoil..
Synthetic fluid is better the the non synthetic...

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i just hit 70k miles i want change manual tranny, oil brake fluid, brake lines for SS, coolant fluid... what else should i take care of ?

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=43

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx

what you think guys ?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You can get your a/c system pruged and recharged but thats not a performance mod.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i had blown a/c compressor i replaced it like 2 weeks ago everything its fresh

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I never did anything with the AC system yet just changed the cabin filter behind the glove box about a year ago... Winter iscomming though so might wait till next year to sevice / purge / recharge the A/C... What does this entail?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

They empty out the refrigerant, and refill with stuff.

OscarCL3.2

What was your cost on the a/c compressor repair? I am about to go in for service and I think there is a problem with the a/c compressor, I get this horrible whining noise when the a/c comes on, I've also been seeing a lot of water run off from the a/c.

Thanks,

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

it was terrible it sounded like supercharger but it wasnt. 100 deg in a traffic with not working a/c. actually it was working but barely. compresor was shaking the engine messed up my belt tensioner also. compressor alone is like 500/600$ but labor valves fluids etc is what you have to replace cuz to get 1 warranty you have to change valves i have to look at the bill what kind valves was that. i had aftermarket warranty for my CL they covered only compresor and 2.1 hour of labor. so i have to put the rest of 1250$ from my wallet. 560$ its what i paid for it and after all i got sick in the first couple days of using my fixed a/c

sdiaconu

you really have to check your engine bushings(pillows) all three of them back, front, passenger. The deal is that they are vacuum style, and they tend to break if you force the car. You can see if they need to be changed by making someone else to put the car in D, press brake with left foot, and slowly pressing acceleration on and off with right foot, you look meanwhile at the engine, if it jumps, wayyyyyy toooo much out of his "bay" than you got a problem. Its important to change them because, that can affect your muffler flex metal part, which will crack soon, because it moves tooo much.
Than...brakes,rotors...And make sure your catalytic converter is ok

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

We call them, and most ppl know them by engine mounts. The front one is hydraulic and if it leaks its bad. The side on is just a rubber mount, rarely goes bad. The back on is hydraulic also I think. Doesn't go bad often unless u beat on the car with a broken front mount. Never heard of the flex pipe going bad on a tl/cl bc of the motor mounts being shot

celynka

This was expansion valve, pretty tuff to get to, entire blower/air mix assembly has to go out. Replacement of that valve is recommended when lots of shavings from bad compressor gets into system but usually simple line disconnection and flush is enough. Personally I would not do that , but shops force customer for it, as it is expensive as hell. No work ethic these days - all it counts is revenue!

celynka

Thats normal , seized compressor requires so much effort to move that engine simply can not keep steady @ idle..... and do not worry about your engine mounts .