I did the throttle body coolant bypass in May and had no issues. Since November I have had some issues starting my car when the engine is hot.

Two mechanics from the stealership indicate that the bypass may have something to do with the hot start issue. I doubt it and would like to know if any of my colleagues who have done the bypass have had issues afterwards..

 

I've had the TB by-passed for many years on my CLS-6 with no issues. Refer to the thread below, if your bypass does not look like the last picture in post #29, then perhaps something is wrong:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/tb-coolant-bypass-mod-anyone-do-638323/

A hose coming from the (vertical) inlet on the water passage at the thermostat flipping right back to a (horizontal) outlet on the water passage.

What exactly was their explanation as to how it would affect your 'hot start issue'???

 

It wouldnt affect a hot start. It would only cause an issue on a really cold start with ice in the throttle body.

 

It was conjecture by both of them. Neither could explain with a salient response other than "the hot coolant wouldtell the throttle body the engine was hot".

Neither could explain why I went the whole summer in South Florida with no issues.

 

Precisely.

Dude, stop paying fees to those dolts at Rick Case and find yourself a specialty Honda/Acura shop somewhere their in Broward, there has to be one on University Drive or 441 somewhere.

 

www.cartek-tuning.com

But I don't think the bypass has anything to do with it. Sounds like a sensor problem, or a coolant blockage.

 

Hot start issues have been a common problem with the car for a while. Do a search on it and you'll probably find a solution.

 

There you go, that's right off 84, near where I went to school, NovaSoutheastern. hehe

 

You would think those "experts" at Rick Case Acura would have come across this before. Those thieves got me for $500 for an intake air control valve. I noted afterwards while navigating this site that I could have cleaned and reused the old one. The manager of the stealership and my old mechanic trashed this site essentially indicating that this site engages in automotive vodoo.....

I went on line and paid $15 to "Just ask" and the "Acura Mechanic" I corresponded with suggested a fuel pressure regulator. He shared that "they fail on the Acuras a lot". He indicated it was a bolt on and I could get one for under $100.

Has anyone had an issue with the fuel pressure regulator??

 

Some have with no start conditions. However I would think it would do it at all times not just when it's hot. If you buy a fuel pressure gauge at autozone you can test the pressure from the port at the fuel rail.

 

The lowest cost IACV I could find online was $128.94 before shipping from MagAuto, the remaining $370 of that $500 must have been for labor/diagnostic and it still did not fix the problem, jeez

haha, I'll tell you what, the F'in 'voodoo' on this site has personally saved me thousands of dollars over the last eight years of ownership of my CLS-6. I'll take that any day in comparison to the jackwagon highway robbery they practice over there at RICK CASE ACURA.

I did not have any problems with my OEM FPR for the first 45K I put on the car. After that, it was replaced when the SC'er was installed.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks fuzzy I am going to give the fuel pressure test a shot. Can you advise where it hooks up on the rail and what the pressure should be?

I had a good laugh at the comments made by the mechanics. I guess they feel I should fork over my $500 bucks and say "Thank you Sir may I have another" and appreciate the free USA Today and Coffee I got while I waited for the repair.

 

There are a lot of longtime owners and members on here that know a lot more about their Acura then a technician or service manager would. I probably say this applies to anyone that loves their cars, are enthusists and frequent automotive forums like this one.

I fixed a problem that my local Acura dealer spent 15 minutes on with a tech and concluded that I would need to pay a 95 dollar diagnosis fee. I left, found out what the problem was (a blown fuse), came back and ripped the service manager out. You wanted to charge me 95 bucks to find a replace a 2 dollar fuse?!

 

My suspect is your fuel injection main relay.
Costs around $75 located under the driver side dash which you can do yourself. There are soldering issues that
affect this particular part from what I read online.
If you're willing to spend this amount to find out,
it might just be worth it.

 

i am gonna do the bypass mod.
hopefully i have no problems from it.
its hooooot down here in Florida, and i need all the help I can to keep things cool.
I added some Redline fluid in the radiator to lower temps as well.

 

Hope I did it right.
its running great, so i am assuming so

 

It was the fuel pressure regulator that went....the thieves at Rick Case Acura wanted to hit me up for a prom also to the tune of $600. I directed them to replace the regulator only and that did the trick.

The thieves also wanted an hour and a half labor. I told them it would take less than half an hour to do the switch and after some back and forth they agreed. I watched the tech do the procedure in 15 minutes.....

 

What a bunch of dirty assholes. I would NEVER go back there.

Go to Acura of Pembroke Pines...shop foreman Mike is a nice guy and a few of the techs are actually ON this site. They know and love cars.

OR, if you're up for an hour drive...go see forum member "Nitrous". He's a honda tech up in Boynton. Went up there to get my fenders rolled and diagnose a problem. He solved it, in the shop, on his own time. And didn't charge me a whole lot to do it. Great guy.

 

Thanks for the head up....next issue I will try one or the other. I like the fact that some of the PP Acura techs go on this site. The clowns at Rick Case alleged that some of our colleagues here practice voodoo repair and upgrades.

 

It's insane how only a handful of people can change a dealership service department from honest to complete trash.

 

I bet a lot of us know our own cars better then they do.

 

i agree.

mine is going great now that i have done the bypass, along with the WATER WETTER Redline fluid, it runs cooler on both ends. Engine temp is at 3/8 rather than 1/2 or slightly above

 

That coolant bypass makes your P2R TB spacer completely useless lol. Still looks cool though.

 

The spacer insulates the throttle body from the engine. Both mods should work well together, especially in the summer months....

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oakroadsteve

The spacer insulates the throttle body from the engine. Both mods should work well together, especially in the summer months....

"The throttle body spacer is not meant to keep the throttle body cool, but is meant to keep the intake manifold insulated from the heat of the throttle body. Remember that most throttle bodies are heated by engine coolant to keep ice from forming in cold climates." -Outlaw Engineering

Naw he has an IM spacer, so the engine heat isn't getting to his TB. The TB spacer is strictly to separate the hot coolant filled TB from the IM. That way, the IM stays a little bit colder. If the TB isn't hot, then the TB spacer really is just a pretty paperweight.

Hmm, but I guess it pushes the intake a little bit away from the engine. That lets the car take in slightly colder air... But that would barely make a difference.

Interesting to think about though =]

 

to be completely honest, i think the throttle body spacer and gaskets were a waste, unless there is true power given on a dyno for OUR cars.
but yeah, it should slightly help with heat, but not enough to notice, even here in Hell-ville Florida...lol

 

Thanks for the quote from Outlaw engineering K7. Before I did my bypass a year ago I read on this site that the spacer kept the throttle body cooler by separating it from the im.

P2rp is quoted as alleging that by increasing the space between the two components there is a slight horsepower gain and there actually was a dino done with the spacer and an increase of a couple of horses was realized in the upper rpm ranges.

 

Outlaw's website is actually really well done. They provide all the theoretical reasoning behind the HP gains, and then they provide a dyno test to prove it. They are very scientific, and keep all the conditions the same through both tests. For our cars, the gains are 8.6 whp and 9.2 ft-lbs of torque.

Scroll down for the dyno:
http://www.outlawengineering.com/hondajframe.html

Theoretical info:
http://www.outlawengineering.com/techframe.html

 

K7.....those kind of gains for a spacer?? I put the spacer in last June and noted minimal gains and really was not expecting much..

I got 30 hp from the Headers
5+ for the resonator removal and K&N add
3-5 for the pulley install

From what I have read a transition to a good synthetic from Dino oil will yield some a few HP. I noted in an earlier post that one of our colleagues used Redlline water wetter. That is a good idea as a cooler engine will run stronger. I have timed my Cls in the winter and summer with my Gtech accelerometer and the quarter time drops from 14.3 to 14.1. The difference of running in 90 degree heat to 40 degrees is worth 15 hp at least...