Interesting Things that happen to my car when I go to the dealership
01-15-2009, 10:47 PM
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Interesting Things that happen to my car when I go to the dealership
So this has puzzled me before for over a year, maybe two. EVERYTIME I go to the dealership to get an oil change, I get my car back and without fail after a week or two, my car will go SH*T WTF let's turn the engine light on, ABS, angry triangle, etc, etc.
This usually happens at idle either at a traffic light, or in the parking lot in the morning. My guess is that it is like the sensors detected something out of the ordinary and decided to reset something in the ECU so that it doesn't know where to idle or shift or do anything. Don't even try driving, the car will not shift friendly in this state.
I usually shut off the car and restart, and everything is fine. The only telltale sign is that the idle will bounce because the car is allowing it to fall too low to >500 rpm. If I rev it and decide to stop all of a sudden or if I rev in park, it will stall the car as if it doesn't know to make a hard stop at 1k rpms like normal and then decrease to 750rpms, it will keep falling too low and cause everything to barf everywhere.
Doing stupid stuff like purposely causing it to stall usually exacerbates the problem though, and leaving the car to idle for a while (like they tell you to when you've disconnected the battery for a long time) and then driving nice for at least a few trips fixes it until the next oil change. Then the next time I go to the damn dealership, and they jack up my car again and it happens the same way.
What is the dealership doing to my car during the oil change that causes this? Does anyone else experience this pain in the ass? I don't dare ask them because they'll want to inspect it, jack it up even worse, and then ask me to pay up. A marginal sensor???
Oh..
BTW....I asked the stealership for a lock actuator part today and service quoted me $37 and then Parts dept. insistently tried to charge me $50 until I instead on $37 and then they suspiciously gave in too easily. What a bunch of greedy monkeys let me tell ya.
This usually happens at idle either at a traffic light, or in the parking lot in the morning. My guess is that it is like the sensors detected something out of the ordinary and decided to reset something in the ECU so that it doesn't know where to idle or shift or do anything. Don't even try driving, the car will not shift friendly in this state.
I usually shut off the car and restart, and everything is fine. The only telltale sign is that the idle will bounce because the car is allowing it to fall too low to >500 rpm. If I rev it and decide to stop all of a sudden or if I rev in park, it will stall the car as if it doesn't know to make a hard stop at 1k rpms like normal and then decrease to 750rpms, it will keep falling too low and cause everything to barf everywhere.
Doing stupid stuff like purposely causing it to stall usually exacerbates the problem though, and leaving the car to idle for a while (like they tell you to when you've disconnected the battery for a long time) and then driving nice for at least a few trips fixes it until the next oil change. Then the next time I go to the damn dealership, and they jack up my car again and it happens the same way.What is the dealership doing to my car during the oil change that causes this? Does anyone else experience this pain in the ass? I don't dare ask them because they'll want to inspect it, jack it up even worse, and then ask me to pay up. A marginal sensor???
Oh..
BTW....I asked the stealership for a lock actuator part today and service quoted me $37 and then Parts dept. insistently tried to charge me $50 until I instead on $37 and then they suspiciously gave in too easily. What a bunch of greedy monkeys let me tell ya.
01-16-2009, 10:48 AM
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battery is a-ok.
Could be MAP or IACV? I'm not that familiar with those sensors, might something change about their state from changing oil? Actually my symptoms remind me of symptoms reported on here about intake manifold burnt oil blockage causing inconsistent idling.
I was hoping someone else on the forum may have had similar problems after oil changes and maybe figured out something.
Could be MAP or IACV? I'm not that familiar with those sensors, might something change about their state from changing oil? Actually my symptoms remind me of symptoms reported on here about intake manifold burnt oil blockage causing inconsistent idling.
I was hoping someone else on the forum may have had similar problems after oil changes and maybe figured out something.
01-16-2009, 02:42 PM
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That sounds like the battery to me because 3 days ago my battery died due to the cold temperatures. When I tried turning the car on it turned over normally but idled really low (500 RPM +/-)
And I've seen it happen on other cars where if the battery is really it messes up the electrical system and makes it do crazy things until it gets enough power.
You can try checking your alternator, it might not be generating power, which goes back to the battery thing.
Other than that man, I don't see how an oil change can do that.
And I've seen it happen on other cars where if the battery is really it messes up the electrical system and makes it do crazy things until it gets enough power.
You can try checking your alternator, it might not be generating power, which goes back to the battery thing.
Other than that man, I don't see how an oil change can do that.
01-17-2009, 01:01 AM
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I've asked this question a while back and the alternator was suggested before as the culprit. I don't know about it being the alternator though, I never see any of these symptoms except maybe once every year or every 8 months. Oil change is infrequent bc I don't have to drive very far to work.
How should I check if it's the alternator? The other problem is that it only happens for a day or two at most and my guess is that it won't happen until after the next oil change. (Unless I jinx myself like I just did
)
Statistically speaking, doesn't it seem that a failing alternator would be more consistently unhappy than once a year or every 8 months right after changing oil. In fact, I dread changing oil because I know it will happen soon after.
How should I check if it's the alternator? The other problem is that it only happens for a day or two at most and my guess is that it won't happen until after the next oil change. (Unless I jinx myself like I just did
)Statistically speaking, doesn't it seem that a failing alternator would be more consistently unhappy than once a year or every 8 months right after changing oil. In fact, I dread changing oil because I know it will happen soon after.
01-17-2009, 10:41 AM
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I've asked this question a while back and the alternator was suggested before as the culprit. I don't know about it being the alternator though, I never see any of these symptoms except maybe once every year or every 8 months. Oil change is infrequent bc I don't have to drive very far to work.
How should I check if it's the alternator? The other problem is that it only happens for a day or two at most and my guess is that it won't happen until after the next oil change. (Unless I jinx myself like I just did)
Statistically speaking, doesn't it seem that a failing alternator would be more consistently unhappy than once a year or every 8 months right after changing oil. In fact, I dread changing oil because I know it will happen soon after.
How should I check if it's the alternator? The other problem is that it only happens for a day or two at most and my guess is that it won't happen until after the next oil change. (Unless I jinx myself like I just did
)Statistically speaking, doesn't it seem that a failing alternator would be more consistently unhappy than once a year or every 8 months right after changing oil. In fact, I dread changing oil because I know it will happen soon after.
and take it to your autoparts store (autozone,napa,carquest ect) they can check it for you. I don't know if there is another way to check it without removing it.
Other than that man I don't know. That oil change thing has me puzzled
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01-20-2009, 12:54 PM
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A simple way to test the charging system in your car is to do a comparison of voltage at the battery when the car is running and when the car is not running. The voltage in the battery and in the electrical system should be higher than normal battery voltage when the engine is running. about 12v when not running and 14v when car is running/ charging. another quick way would be to disconnect ur battery cable, if the car dies then its alternator is bad, if no then good.
01-20-2009, 04:56 PM
#9
bad idea on disconnecting alt......good way to fry the eld...........
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