Tried to start the car a few days ago and did not notice the fuel pump noise when the key was turned on. Fuel pressure gauge was at zero as well.

The car had many of the symptoms talked about in this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/fuel-pump-relay-problem-495108/
The starter would turn and turn and the engine would not start.

Purchased a new Fuel Pump relay, installed it, fuel pressure gauge still at zero. The starter would turn with no start.

Buddy of mine had a new Walbro #GSS342 at a steal, so he forwarded it and now I'm ready to install. The old Walbro has about 60+K with no problems until now. It was installed with the S/C kit (CLS-6) back in Jan. 2005.

The install looks pretty straight forward in the manual.
Any tips / pointers on what to look out for during the install?

Thanks.

 

relieve the fuel pressure. then take out the pump. its really simple to do. did it on my tl when i put my walbro 225lph pump and do to some changes i took it out and gonna put it in my cl now. takes about 30min to do the whole swap

 

Thanks for the response.

I read up on the 'fuel pressure relieving' step in the manual. It has a note that the washers on the fuel pulsation damper should be replaced '...whenever the FPD is loosened or removed.'

Did you have any fuel leak problems after?

How did the retainers on the feed and return pipe hold up when you disconnected them? Were they a PIA to disconnect?

Thanks.

 

no leaks at all. the clips poped out easily.

 

Great!

Did you have any issues with removing the bracket holding the fuel filter and reinstalling it or any of the other peripheral components when transferring them to the new FP?

Just trying to get 'all of my ducks in a row' before going forward with this sometime in the next couple of days.

Thanks again.

 

theirs is this small metal locking retainer on the filter, u pry it out carefully with a samll flat head screwdriver. if u have a new one then put the new one on, if not bend the inside clips of the retainer and put it back on. u will understand when u take it off.

looks something like this but with less prongs on the inside

 

use brass tools as sparks = bad for you (happened to my cousin)

 

i had no problems with my steel tools. but brass is the smarter way to go

 

Thanks for the input on this little pain in the ass. It took me about ten minutes to find it on the floor (after taking every precaution not to lose it)

It was a good feeling to hear that pump prime after turning the ignition on a couple of times before starting the engine. The feed and return lines separated with no problems/no leaks after the reinstall.

This repair was really easy. Just make sure to have plenty of ventilation, take your time removing (use brass tools if you have them) the 8mm bolts and the pump housing from the tank. Be mindful of the float mechanism when replacing the pump so not put stress on it etc. The electrical connection between the wire harness terminal at the pump was a little hairy to disconnect because it's a tight space to work. Other than that, it was pretty straight forward.

Just curious, the shop that installed the S/C kit placed a 3/8" fuel line in between the pump outlet and the feed tube within the fuel pump housing. I was just wondering what the OEM tube was if it was different? Do you recall?

Thanks again.