Does anyone know where the fuel filter is located on an Acura CL?

 

Attached to the fuel pump in the gas tank. It's not a replaceable part. You would have to replace the pump in the tank.
Actually it is replaceable, but not a maintenance item. Same applies, drop tank.

 

You don't have to drop the tank. You can do everything from inside the trunk. There's an access plate under the spare tire cover. It's between the spare tire and the back seat.

 

^ This.

 

Yeah that's what I meant. I have Explorer on the brain cause I just had to replace that gas tank.

 

but depending on the year of exploder, they are actually not too bad to drop and change out the pump; and are on the easier side to do actually (with a lift of course)

 

part #1 for the OP

 

ok..If it isnt a maintenance item then I wont worry about replacing it...Thanks guys..!

 

yeah only really recommended, with you have drive ability concerns, and you have lack of fuel pressure

 

#6 is a filter as well. Apparently there seems to be two filters, one before and one after the pump.

 

that too , btw that is the "sock", it's a prefilter for the pump, to filter out the big stuff, so everything passes through the pump
then #1 is the "main" filter designed to filter everything else out for the fuel injectors and such

 

Is there a fuse you can pull to disable the fuel pump so you can crank up the oil pressure before starting after an oil change??

After an oil change there is no oil pressure for a moment or two which causes needless wear on the engine.

 

how would you crank up the oil pressure? That would require cranking the motor to drive the pump. There is still enough lubrication in the motor to keep it from needless wear. If it were a problem there would be other ways of changing the oil. Fill the oil filter before putting it on and you will have even more right away.

 

actually there is a point to makeing it so the engine does not fire, when the oil is changed, and that has to due with the fact that you only get a consistent rotational force from the starter instead of the pulses from the cylinders firing, when you have the least amount of protection/oil pressure

BUT considering the fact that japanese cars in general will build oil pressure, even with an empty oil filter within 5 seconds or so (and yes pre-filling will shorten that time even more), not a whole lot to worry about with the residue oil still left in the motor providing enough protection till you can build pressure again



NOW on a domestic, it might be wise to indeed keep it from starting when changing oil, cause some of those can take 10-15 seconds just to build pressure...

 

I never had any issues with the oil in 15yo explorers I have owned. I doubt there's much to worry about.

 

just saying in general that domestics seem to lake longer to regain oil pressure after an oil change, and that if anything it would be more beneficial to them due to the longer amount of time it takes for them regain oil pressure

 

The difference is minimal. The domestics i have worked on have built pressure every bit as fast as my hondas have

Like i said, if it actually caused wear that one should be worried about they would have different ways of changing oil for vehicles.

Ive seen tests where they drained oil to see how long motors could run without lubrication before damage occurred and the results were pretty amazing on how long they could go. Modern oils stick to surfaces and protect pretty darn good, especially at start up. I would say the northern climate people would have more a concern starting their cars in -deg weather with start up protection more so than one who changed their oil

 

has anyone done a write up on replacing the fuel filter on an 01 cl?

 

Sure the exposure is minimal but for the 5 minutes it takes to pull the fuse and put it back in you can crank the engine up under full pressure...

I read an article back in the 80's in which AC Delco claimed that there was more wear on an engine immediately after an oil change than 10k worth of driving. Good point made above that oil is much better nowadays but to me 5 minutes of my time is worth it.

 

If your doing your own oil changes. Do what you want, your car.

No shop I know dealer or otherwise would waste their time & man hours to do something like that.
Not that I know of, but if you look up there's pics of the parts. Since it's the fuel tank, there's an access cover under the trunk floor. Remove the spare tire & remove the trim panels of the trunk, then remove the trunk floor covering. It's under that.
Again unless there's a problem, there's no need to mess with it.

 

if anything it probably would be under "fuel pump replacement" when replacing it with a high flow pump such as a walbro



and here are my , if you are asking for a DIY, would it really be the smartest idea to be messing with the fuel system and potentially causing a leak, and a fire hazard (kinda along the lines of the airbag system, with touching it, and possibly having them go off)

 

Gentlemen.....I am just putting the thought out there and I appreciate the salient responses. I used to pull the fuse on my 280ZX Turbo and it took 10 seconds to pull, 10 seconds to crank to full pressure and 10 seconds to put the fuse back in. That was an 83 model back in the mid 90's.

Cars are more complicated today and oil is better. Maybe there are ramifications in pulling a fuel pump fuse and cranking it up. Never thought of that but the suggestion of filling the oil filter up beforehand is an excellent one and thanks for the thoughts...

 

No need to do all that. there part of the trunk floor closest to the seats has one fastener holding it down. Pop that out and that portion of the floor will flip back giving you access to the access panel.

Ive always been taught to prime the oil filter.

As it has been stated already, there is still residual oil in the crank case. Unless you have issues with your oiling system, it will build pressure quickly. If you were to let the car sit for a few days, you wouldnt pull the fuel pump fuse to build oil pressure, would you?