Engine/Vacuum Leak Hesitation
03-05-2015, 01:20 PM
#1
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Engine/Vacuum Leak Hesitation
I'll post a link to video.
I'm having major drive ability issues, I think I have a vacuum leak but I'm not exactly sure. There is a clicking noise when I manually open the throttle, I'm having a mechanic come over but in the mean time any thoughts? It's definitely not the tyranny, I think...
I'm having major drive ability issues, I think I have a vacuum leak but I'm not exactly sure. There is a clicking noise when I manually open the throttle, I'm having a mechanic come over but in the mean time any thoughts? It's definitely not the tyranny, I think...
03-05-2015, 08:16 PM
#2
It's definitely not the tranny...... I think?
It says your video is private btw for me at least.
You have not described remotely what your symptoms are. This is so vague there is no way you'll get any help with the lack of info you have provided.
Explain as much as you possibly can, when did it start, does the symptom change with engine temp or air temp or under load etc....
We can't help if you don't help urself
It says your video is private btw for me at least.
You have not described remotely what your symptoms are. This is so vague there is no way you'll get any help with the lack of info you have provided.
Explain as much as you possibly can, when did it start, does the symptom change with engine temp or air temp or under load etc....
We can't help if you don't help urself
03-06-2015, 09:59 AM
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It's definitely not the tranny...... I think?
It says your video is private btw for me at least.
You have not described remotely what your symptoms are. This is so vague there is no way you'll get any help with the lack of info you have provided.
Explain as much as you possibly can, when did it start, does the symptom change with engine temp or air temp or under load etc....
We can't help if you don't help urself
It says your video is private btw for me at least.
You have not described remotely what your symptoms are. This is so vague there is no way you'll get any help with the lack of info you have provided.
Explain as much as you possibly can, when did it start, does the symptom change with engine temp or air temp or under load etc....
We can't help if you don't help urself
A mechanic took a look at the car and said it needs new coils. he interchanged some coils around as a possible permanent/temporary fix. He did use a scan tool and all cylinders misfire, there were other codes too but claimed the issue lied with spark plugs and coils I'm still thinking its a vacuum leak haha(rpms surge when I start the car they cup then slowly down) When I first turned on the car this morning it sounded almost as if it was humming, I took it out for another drive and the car appeared to run well then I stalls no power when I press the accelerator
Take a look at the vid and give me your opinion thanks
03-08-2015, 10:01 AM
#4
The car is extremely loud in gear when u were driving it. I also must ask when did the vsa light come on? What other codes are you getting? Make sure it's a good scanner that can read every single code... Abs, Trans, ecu, srs... Everything
Are you blipping the throttle when it was jerking like that? Or was it just doing that itself.?. Does it happen at a certain temp, or at a certain throttle imput. It would have really helped to keep the camera in the rpms when u were driving.
I just fixed a pretty big vac leak between the runner and the manifold and the car ran and idled fine before that. If you have a vacume leak it's likely going to be around the throttle body area, that's where it impacts the drive ability so I have experienced with my car.. Your vsa neck that goes to the tb is not correct. That coupler you have on it seems like a no no to me. It could be sucking in air right there. You should put the oem piece on and ensure it does not have any leaks.... Mine ripped on my car and had to replace it. It made the car some days not even idle and it would die and was not drive able. It took me a year to finally find out it was ripped on the back underside and I guess some days it was worse than others.
You also had the car in d4 not d5 when you were driving.
See if d5 makes a difference, or sport mode. Or shifting from d1-d2.. Then d2-d3
That constant hum noise is the intake you have. The wheeeewwww noise sounds like a mangled tq converter or something in the transmission. Because it gets louder as u rev the engine.
Usually when it is a coil the car hesitates, sputters, dies, runs like shit all around. When u started the car it did not appear to have any of those symptoms so I would likely rule out coils. Keep in mind you could have more than one issue and that makes tracking them down much much harder.
Ask yourself when was the car running fine last, then what changed, how did it change. What lights on the dash came up in what sequence.
If you want to figure this out you need to literally become a bit of a detective and figure out each little thing in sequence.
Are you blipping the throttle when it was jerking like that? Or was it just doing that itself.?. Does it happen at a certain temp, or at a certain throttle imput. It would have really helped to keep the camera in the rpms when u were driving.
I just fixed a pretty big vac leak between the runner and the manifold and the car ran and idled fine before that. If you have a vacume leak it's likely going to be around the throttle body area, that's where it impacts the drive ability so I have experienced with my car.. Your vsa neck that goes to the tb is not correct. That coupler you have on it seems like a no no to me. It could be sucking in air right there. You should put the oem piece on and ensure it does not have any leaks.... Mine ripped on my car and had to replace it. It made the car some days not even idle and it would die and was not drive able. It took me a year to finally find out it was ripped on the back underside and I guess some days it was worse than others.
You also had the car in d4 not d5 when you were driving.
See if d5 makes a difference, or sport mode. Or shifting from d1-d2.. Then d2-d3
That constant hum noise is the intake you have. The wheeeewwww noise sounds like a mangled tq converter or something in the transmission. Because it gets louder as u rev the engine.
Usually when it is a coil the car hesitates, sputters, dies, runs like shit all around. When u started the car it did not appear to have any of those symptoms so I would likely rule out coils. Keep in mind you could have more than one issue and that makes tracking them down much much harder.
Ask yourself when was the car running fine last, then what changed, how did it change. What lights on the dash came up in what sequence.
If you want to figure this out you need to literally become a bit of a detective and figure out each little thing in sequence.
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 03-08-2015 at 10:03 AM.
03-08-2015, 10:41 PM
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The car is extremely loud in gear when u were driving it. I also must ask when did the vsa light come on? What other codes are you getting? Make sure it's a good scanner that can read every single code... Abs, Trans, ecu, srs... Everything
Are you blipping the throttle when it was jerking like that? Or was it just doing that itself.?. Does it happen at a certain temp, or at a certain throttle imput. It would have really helped to keep the camera in the rpms when u were driving.
I just fixed a pretty big vac leak between the runner and the manifold and the car ran and idled fine before that. If you have a vacume leak it's likely going to be around the throttle body area, that's where it impacts the drive ability so I have experienced with my car.. Your vsa neck that goes to the tb is not correct. That coupler you have on it seems like a no no to me. It could be sucking in air right there. You should put the oem piece on and ensure it does not have any leaks.... Mine ripped on my car and had to replace it. It made the car some days not even idle and it would die and was not drive able. It took me a year to finally find out it was ripped on the back underside and I guess some days it was worse than others.
You also had the car in d4 not d5 when you were driving.
See if d5 makes a difference, or sport mode. Or shifting from d1-d2.. Then d2-d3
That constant hum noise is the intake you have. The wheeeewwww noise sounds like a mangled tq converter or something in the transmission. Because it gets louder as u rev the engine.
Usually when it is a coil the car hesitates, sputters, dies, runs like shit all around. When u started the car it did not appear to have any of those symptoms so I would likely rule out coils. Keep in mind you could have more than one issue and that makes tracking them down much much harder.
Ask yourself when was the car running fine last, then what changed, how did it change. What lights on the dash came up in what sequence.
If you want to figure this out you need to literally become a bit of a detective and figure out each little thing in sequence.
Are you blipping the throttle when it was jerking like that? Or was it just doing that itself.?. Does it happen at a certain temp, or at a certain throttle imput. It would have really helped to keep the camera in the rpms when u were driving.
I just fixed a pretty big vac leak between the runner and the manifold and the car ran and idled fine before that. If you have a vacume leak it's likely going to be around the throttle body area, that's where it impacts the drive ability so I have experienced with my car.. Your vsa neck that goes to the tb is not correct. That coupler you have on it seems like a no no to me. It could be sucking in air right there. You should put the oem piece on and ensure it does not have any leaks.... Mine ripped on my car and had to replace it. It made the car some days not even idle and it would die and was not drive able. It took me a year to finally find out it was ripped on the back underside and I guess some days it was worse than others.
You also had the car in d4 not d5 when you were driving.
See if d5 makes a difference, or sport mode. Or shifting from d1-d2.. Then d2-d3
That constant hum noise is the intake you have. The wheeeewwww noise sounds like a mangled tq converter or something in the transmission. Because it gets louder as u rev the engine.
Usually when it is a coil the car hesitates, sputters, dies, runs like shit all around. When u started the car it did not appear to have any of those symptoms so I would likely rule out coils. Keep in mind you could have more than one issue and that makes tracking them down much much harder.
Ask yourself when was the car running fine last, then what changed, how did it change. What lights on the dash came up in what sequence.
If you want to figure this out you need to literally become a bit of a detective and figure out each little thing in sequence.
I won't have access to a scan tool till Saturday at the auto tech class so I i have to wait.(sucks)
When the car was jerking, I was pressing and holding the gas pedal but there was no response. Then the car would accelerate in tiny bursts almost as if trying to catch up to my throttle inputs.(at the time of hesitation the exhast would act up, pu pu pu pu constant deep tone ) I haven't noticed a certain temperature since I wait for the engine to reach operating temp.
Usually its the small pedal inputs that cause this issue. just barely pressing the accelerator i.e. going slow
The rubber piece on the 2ed TB is ripped. that's how the car was when I got it. I'll probably replace CAI for the stock one.
I drove the car today and it seemed to run fine it was putting power down VTECCCC (The car feels like a race car)haha I just had the same problem when I reached the corner and applied light throttle, then when I pressed it in further the problem went away.
haha thanks I feel like a detective
03-09-2015, 11:48 AM
#6
you can plug it in to a live scan tool and see the throttle input and throttle %
sometimes the resistor develops a bad spot and it is not reading correctly at a certain throttle.
that vsa light could be the vsa throttle position sensor malfunctioning..
honestly you need to hook it up to a live scanner and read all the codes. write them all down.
the vsa light is very important so do not overlook that.. you never know how much the last guy did to ur car and whether he knew wtf he was doing.
if you still cannot find anything I personally would wipe the ecu and then see what codes come up first and in what order. but you will not find out anything without a scanner.
that engine bay is extremely loud tho. i would not be surprised if u have a internal motor issue or something in the trans is mangled.
you may have to do compression test to see if there is damage to the motor cause that cause cause a bunch of codes too...
but honestly you are going to be in for a ride, so buckle up and keep ur cool.... start from the basics and then try and hone down wtf is going wrong. I think you have at least one main issue causing the throttle blip... and i also think you have a totally separate issue with that loud engine bay.
good luck... keep us posted
sometimes the resistor develops a bad spot and it is not reading correctly at a certain throttle.
that vsa light could be the vsa throttle position sensor malfunctioning..
honestly you need to hook it up to a live scanner and read all the codes. write them all down.
the vsa light is very important so do not overlook that.. you never know how much the last guy did to ur car and whether he knew wtf he was doing.
if you still cannot find anything I personally would wipe the ecu and then see what codes come up first and in what order. but you will not find out anything without a scanner.
that engine bay is extremely loud tho. i would not be surprised if u have a internal motor issue or something in the trans is mangled.
you may have to do compression test to see if there is damage to the motor cause that cause cause a bunch of codes too...
but honestly you are going to be in for a ride, so buckle up and keep ur cool.... start from the basics and then try and hone down wtf is going wrong. I think you have at least one main issue causing the throttle blip... and i also think you have a totally separate issue with that loud engine bay.
good luck... keep us posted
03-23-2015, 12:12 PM
#7
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you can plug it in to a live scan tool and see the throttle input and throttle %
sometimes the resistor develops a bad spot and it is not reading correctly at a certain throttle.
that vsa light could be the vsa throttle position sensor malfunctioning..
honestly you need to hook it up to a live scanner and read all the codes. write them all down.
the vsa light is very important so do not overlook that.. you never know how much the last guy did to ur car and whether he knew wtf he was doing.
if you still cannot find anything I personally would wipe the ecu and then see what codes come up first and in what order. but you will not find out anything without a scanner.
that engine bay is extremely loud tho. i would not be surprised if u have a internal motor issue or something in the trans is mangled.
you may have to do compression test to see if there is damage to the motor cause that cause cause a bunch of codes too...
but honestly you are going to be in for a ride, so buckle up and keep ur cool.... start from the basics and then try and hone down wtf is going wrong. I think you have at least one main issue causing the throttle blip... and i also think you have a totally separate issue with that loud engine bay.
good luck... keep us posted
sometimes the resistor develops a bad spot and it is not reading correctly at a certain throttle.
that vsa light could be the vsa throttle position sensor malfunctioning..
honestly you need to hook it up to a live scanner and read all the codes. write them all down.
the vsa light is very important so do not overlook that.. you never know how much the last guy did to ur car and whether he knew wtf he was doing.
if you still cannot find anything I personally would wipe the ecu and then see what codes come up first and in what order. but you will not find out anything without a scanner.
that engine bay is extremely loud tho. i would not be surprised if u have a internal motor issue or something in the trans is mangled.
you may have to do compression test to see if there is damage to the motor cause that cause cause a bunch of codes too...
but honestly you are going to be in for a ride, so buckle up and keep ur cool.... start from the basics and then try and hone down wtf is going wrong. I think you have at least one main issue causing the throttle blip... and i also think you have a totally separate issue with that loud engine bay.
good luck... keep us posted
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03-23-2015, 01:15 PM
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Quick update, conditions with my car have recently taken a turn for the worst. Yesterday I decided to check the fuel injectors so I went to the store and bought a torque wrench andc supplies to do an oil change. I took the 2 throttle bodies off followed by the intakes manifold finally I reached the injector rails and removed 8mm fasteners and discconected the injector s . I lifted the rail which pulled the 3 injecors off the engine block and noticed that one injector had a broken tip and the o ring was missing. I went to autozone and bought a new injector $60 (Honda genuine) and replaced it. During reassembly I torqued everything to specs tyingn to be as careful as possible. Finally when I turned the car on it ran like shit, hesitating everywhere. I'm thinking the missing o ring is still in there
03-25-2015, 01:10 PM
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I found a solution to my problem, the hesitation/shaking was indeed caused by a broken fuel injector tip. The O ring was burned away causing a fuel leak in cylinder 1. My problem was one neglect, during reassembly I accidentally forgot to properly connect(click) injectors 5 and 6 which naturally caused a misfire.
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