First off, this was not hard at all if you have enough common sense, technical know how and a lil strength. This actually could have been done in 30 mins but I had to modify the AEM brake pads that I bought from this dude online. He said they were guaranteed to fit but nope...no fit because of these 2 notches sticking out from on top of the pad. Anyway, they wouldn't go in until I cut them. Here's the steps I took for an easy install.

1. Apply e-brake
2. Turn wheel to your left or right depending on which side (L-R) you're starting.
3. Loosen lug nuts
4. Jack up car (I put a jackstand where the tow line would go for more support)
5. Remove lugs and wheel.
6. Behind the caliper are 2 bolts that need to be loosened w/ a ratchet(this is where your muscle would come in handy or you can tap it a few times w/ a mallet or hammer) *sorry as i'm writing this I don't remember what size sockets I used *
7. Once you have removed the 2 bolts, remove the caliper and place support under it so it doesn't hang. (I've actually seen guys work fairly quickly and just let the thing hang)
8. Remove the 2 screws w/ a philips screwdriver that hold the rotor (be careful not to strip it or you will be fucked so an impact wrench may be handy to keep around. My screws actually came off easy but looks like the dealer almost stripped them)
9. Put your new rotors on (this would actually be a good time to clean your brakes, use a brake cleaner and spray the rotors and wipe clean)
10. Place the screws back on to hold the rotor in place (no need to over tighten)
11. Now, remove the brake pads (this is very simple, nothing really holding them in except for these little clamp thingy's *fuck you guys cuz I don't know what its called* so yea, thingy's!
12. If you ordered your pads correctly, they should go in w/o a problem but there is really no way to tell until the day you actually do your brakes so even if you get the right part #, you still may get fucked and get sent the wrong item.
13. Now you gotta push the piston back (I didn't have a C clamp but I had one of those pliers that can open up pretty wide, so just squeeze and it will go back)
14. Place the caliper back and screw the 2 bolts back on
15. Repeat steps 1-14
16. When you have finished, start the car, pump the brakes 3-4 times to let the pads meet the rotors.
17. Lastly...no bleeding. I don't see the need for this?
18. You're done

Again, this could have been done in 30 mins had I not run into the problem of cutting those things off the brake pads so they would fit. I didn't really take my time in cleaning the calipers but if you're in no hurry, take your time in cleaning them.

If I missed anything, feel free to chime in. This was my first time installing them and should give people more confidence in doing their own installations. I saved about $200 doing this myself and know everyone else can too.

 

You should apply break anti-squeel to prevent the annoying metal-to-back-of-pad noise. If you don't notice now, a few hundred miles you sure will.

Good DIY in all.

Edit: For others, use an impact screwdriver, easily bought at Sears, it's a Craftman, helps prevent stripped screws and is sooo much easier to use. When compressing pistons, be careful of the seals and watch the fluid level in your MC, brake fluid is a PITA to clean and DESTROYS anything it touches READ: CAR PAINT. Also, proper breakin is absolutely necessary (a few 60-5, 40-5, 20-5 stops do not, i REPEAT, do not completely stop the car when doing these stops).

Also, clean your brakes! It's the only time you will probably do them, so do them now. Use brake cleaner (wear a mask so you don't get high, ok so don't wear a mask...). Apply anti-seize to hub and rotor-hub face (NOT the rotor face), to make things nice.

 

u might want to torque ur lug nuts correctly

 

Good write up. Fuck those little screws, they don't do anything anyway. Bleeding would be needed if you changed brake lines.

 

Nice write up.

Chemmech & I swapped our brakes, but the little screws would not come out with an impact screwdriver so we had to drill them out.

 

Tanks for the hints. I should have get my rotors in the mail today. Need to get some pads.

? for everyone....

I just replace my brake fluid, the original front pads are thin, and the fluid is topped off. With the new, thicker pads, do I need to remove some fluid? I assume I need to.

 

Anybody know what the torque specs are?, im gonna do my rotors soon.....thx

note: not the lug nuts on the wheels, but the other screws...thx

 

use some anti-seize compound on those brass screws that hold the rotors on when you go to put them back on, next time they will come right out with any trouble.

 

Bluto, after removing my rotors and pads, it doesn't even look like I wore them down, they still looked new?
I mean my rotors had plenty of life and the same w/ the pads. I guess the OEM's ARE that shitty, maybe not the pads but I don't think you will run into any problems w/ the new pads and rotors

 

G unit...IMO I don't think they need to be torq specific. they are just 2 small screws, some people don't even bother putting them back on. Someone else can answer if they know what the exact specification is.

 

This would also be a good time to lube up the slide pins which should be done at least every 15,000 miles. Also when pushing caliper piston back in you should open the bleeder screw to avoid pushing all that crappy fluid back to the master cylinder (although I have been known to skip this step from time to time).

 

creepy shit, exactly 2 years i did this write up and I'm about to change my pads and rotors again. I've had the brembo OEM rotors that I ordered from Tire rack and AEM brake pads I found in the black market last a good 2 years. Not bad I guess. I couldn't find any deals on pads so I'm just going w/ some raybestos QS pads. Cost 50bux plus tax at Kragen. I'm having my rotors resurfaced this weekend. I should probably change the rears now too.

 

yesm you might want to torque your caliper/rotor nuts, because over tightening will warp them qiucker. MY NEXT question is, its like impossible for me to get out my philips screws,, what should i do?

 

ok i couldnt remove the philips screws and i had a impact wrench. so now i have lost all hope.

 

Craftsman sells a drill bit kit called "screw extractors". I had to buy one last weekend to get a stripped screw off my grill. The kit cost $20.

If your screw is not stripped, perhaps some PB Blaster would help? You could also drill out the screws if you're desperate.

 

Need to do my rears, but it's been a loooooong time since I've done rear pads. Is it as simple as the front (i.e. no brake bleeding, just c-clamp the piston) or is it more involved? I guess I'll do the front pads, too...

 

werd. are there any step by step instructions to do the rear? need to change them real soon. or are they just like the front?