Casey Hadlock

I've got a 2001 CL Type-S 140K Miles Auto. Transmission rebuilt 1,000 miles ago.Car started giving me the bouncing/searching idle issue. 800-2000 RPM up and down constantly in Park or Neutral. IACV was very dirty so was replaced with new by Intermotor, disconnected battery, pulled ECU and clock fuse at the time, but no improvement. Have found no vacuum leaks, cleaned all of the intake and EGR system, burped the cooling system and CEL is not on. Checked voltage at TPS, is with in spec. Have since purchased another IACV by BWD at first ran perfect but after 50 miles issue has returned. I am at my wits end on this! Car will idle if I cover the IACV air inlet on the on the inner throttle body. It would seem the ECU is not telling the IACV to close enough to bring idle down in range. Side Note: Car does a have CompTech Supercharger, blower belt is off the car at this time, however with it on issue is the same. I have searched endlessly online and here for someone with my exact issue and a fix but have had no luck. Most all point to a bad IACV. Took it to Acura but first item they wanted to remove was the supercharger at 8 hours labor??? I immediately brought it home. Does anyone have the voltage spec for the IACV, its a 3 pin plug with from what I can tell is 12V key on pins 1&2 and varying voltage to the 3rd pin. Other than the idle issue the car runs absolute perfect, in town and highway speed. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

The problem is the IACV. Get one that doesn't suck.

Casey Hadlock

Do I drop $175 for one from Acura or do you recommend another source? Thanks

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

There's a thread on AZine that tells you which one to get. You can search for it.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

OP, when you reset the ECU, by disconnecting the battery/clock fuse, afterward you attempt to perform the idle relearn procedure, and this is when you get the bouncing/searching idle?

Also, if possible, can you provide the 'Intermotor' part number for the IACV you initially used?

IIRC, the one you want to get is Intermotor AC229, and for heaven sake don't buy it from the stealership. Get it from Amazon or Rockauto for around $65

Casey Hadlock

Thanks for responding, I tried the relearn procedure a few times running it at 3K RPM till the fans kick on with no luck. When I installed the 2nd IACV I didn't do the relearn and the car idled perfect and drove great for about 50 miles, got home in park and bouncing idle returned. Do you recommend a different relearn procedure. The first IACV was a Intermotor AC229 from Advanced Auto Parts.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's what the Helm's recommends. It also states to make sure all 'electrical items' are turned off (A/C; audio rear window defogger; lights, etc)

Personally, I've never done the idle relearn the way the Helm's recommends. I just make sure all electrical items are off; start the car and just let it sit and idle for three fan cycles. It takes a little longer; however, that's the way I learned when I had my two Civics (90 SI hatch & 99 SI); so, I just kept on doing it that way.

That's the one that is needed.

The only thing I can suggest is to try each one again. After resetting the ECU, start the car, if it idles let it sit for three fan cycles, then go for a drive. If that does not help, you may need another IACV. Also, you sound 'handy' with electrical testing from the sound of your initial post; therefore, if you want you can download Karanx7's free PDF manual and search that for IACV testing procedures that may further aid you on the link below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...manual-955523/

Good Luck!

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Here's the link the IACV guide: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...g-iacv-927263/

Make sure you didn't buy the AC229T part number. The "T" at the end is the cheaper one.

If you're idle is so high that the DFCO activates, then you have a pretty big vacuum leak. If you're saying that covering the IACV input stalls the car and that replacing the IACV temporarily fixed it, then it's very likely to be a bad IACV. I'm not sure why your new IACV failed within 50 miles. Maybe you should check and clean the electrical connection.

Casey Hadlock

UPDATE - Sunday morning I cleaned and reinstalled the original Acura IACV, having disconnected the battery and pulled the fuses in the process, once complete it idled and as recommended by Zeta I let it run for 30 minutes going through 3 fan cycles. Car held idle and thus far have logged 140 miles with no problems!! Thank you Karanx7 and Zeta for all your input, appears the easiest solution was the correct solution. Will give another update in a few days. Thanks again

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Here is another tip, if I remember correctly, when you reset the ECU, you can either unplug the clock fuse OR just disconnect the neg. battery terminal. By just unplugging the clock fuse, you save the hassle of reprogramming the radio and such and still get the intended effect of resetting the ECU. Then, as you know, perform either 'idle' relearn procedure.

BTW, I believe, currently, you are the only member on this forum with a S/C'ed 2G Automatic CL-S. That's a rare breed, indeed!

Good Luck!

Oakroadsteve

I still have the Comptech in the garage awaiting install but am wavering.....Opening this site for the 1st time in a while yesterday I noted a PM asking if I wanted to sell it. After having young Squag replace the injectors my CL runs so flawlessly I'm not sure I want to go through the headaches.....

Oakroadsteve

CH you have the only blown CLs auto known to mankind....I have a Comptech SC ready for install but fear blowing my auto tranny.....how many pounds of boost are you currently running?