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This is a bit of a strange problem that I'm sure that's an easy fix. When ever I pull the lever up on the side of the seat to make the back seats accessible, the seat does not move forward automatically on the passenger's seat, but it moves just fine for the driver's seat. Oddly enough, on my girlfriend's 3.2CL, her driver's side seat will not move forward while her passenger's will.
All the motor controls for the seats work. They move forward, back, and recline with no problem, it's just the automatic feature that doesn't work. Even the saved seat positions work on both cars.
So, what gives?
Last edited by Thefireball; Jul 1, 2020 at 08:57 AM.
^
It, the rear seat access cable, could be in need of an adjustment. It may be broken or I think there may be a switch, of some kind there, that it attaches to may be broken. See the attachment for the adjustment procedure.
Good Luck!
^
It, the rear seat access cable, could be in need of an adjustment. It may be broken or I think there may be a switch, of some kind there, that it attaches to may be broken. See the attachment for the adjustment procedure.
Good Luck!
^
That's very helpful when trying to diagnose; however, it appears that the power seat recline limit switch 8163-S3M-A61 is now discontinued.
Looks like the salvage yards will be the only source going forward.
^
That's very helpful when trying to diagnose; however, it appears that the power seat recline limit switch 8163-S3M-A61 is now discontinued.
Looks like the salvage yards will be the only source going forward.
No CLs in junkyards around me currently, guess it'll be awhile until I fix it. Not like it's vital. Maybe I'll just take it off my girl's car, hehe.
Thanks for the info and help guys.
Since my car isn't legal yet, I've decided to go about cleaning the interior. Carpets have been wet vac'd with some soap, along with vacuuming it before hand. She smells clean, and looking great. She had been growing mold on the rear leather seats from sitting for so long, so it had to be done.
So while doing this, I figured I would retackle some small issues I had while I wait. This is one of those, and I still can't figure it out, but I've made some progress.
One of the main issues I never mentioned with this thread is that the forward/back switch works, but it moves little by little. Push the switch, it moves, then stops. Push the button again, move a little, then stops. The motor isn't dying; it's not the issue. I'm not sure why it's doing this, but I'm wondering if it's related to the walk-in feature.
When toying around with the seat out of the car, I noticed a small red button. After having a look at the driver's side, I believe this is the actuator that tells the car that the seat has tilted forward and to enable the walk-in feature. The main issue is that this actuator has a roller. When the seat move forward, part of the metal bracket that holds the motor for the tilt feature sticks out. The roller rolls against this bracket, to the point that it clicks this actuator. The passenger side is missing this.
However, the button works. I checked it with my multimeter, and it starts at 4.86V, then when clicked, the volts drop to 0. I'm not sure what the voltage is meant to be set at, but aren't most electronics meant to be at 12v, and anything under is bad? I'm not good with electrical stuff, so I might be speaking out of my ass. Finding out where the wires to this goes will be a pain, because it will require cutting open the wire loom to track it down. Getting a new roller isn't an issue; I'll just wait for a junkyard to bring in a new CL (as sad of a sight as it is to see).
You guys have any input on this?
*Edit: after thinking about it, I think it's the other way around. I think the roller holds the button down, keeping the voltage at 0, then when it's depressed, it hits it with power, in my case being 4.86 volts, and then it actuates the walk-in feature. The problem still stands; either way doesn't enable the automatic seat moving feature.
Last edited by Thefireball; Mar 27, 2022 at 02:02 AM.
Is that component in the general area circled in red?
I believe so. I tried searching the same site as you, looking at these graphs trying to find it, but they don't have it listed. It's just considered one big unit.
Even worse, the entire unit can't just be replaced. It's riveted on, not bolted. But the actuator it self is held on by two small screws, and two wires. Easy enough to replace. If I can get the unit working again, I might try and make my own sort of roller to attach to it.
Last edited by Thefireball; Mar 27, 2022 at 12:39 PM.
I believe so. I tried searching the same site as you, looking at these graphs trying to find it, but they don't have it listed. It's just considered one big unit.
Even worse, the entire unit can't just be replaced. It's riveted on, not bolted. But the actuator it self is held on by two small screws, and two wires. Easy enough to replace. If I can get the unit working again, I might try and make my own sort of roller to attach to it.
Below is a picture from the Helms and it does not 'break-it out', as a separate part, other than the whole discontinued 81630-S3M-A61;
Driver Side Reclining Adjuster assembly.
Unfortunately, as you know, this assembly does not cross reference to the 2G TL, it's only found on the 2G CL's.
Below is a picture from the Helms and it does not 'break-it out', as a separate part, other than the whole discontinued 81630-S3M-A61;
Driver Side Reclining Adjuster assembly.
Unfortunately, as you know, this assembly does not cross reference to the 2G TL, it's only found on the 2G CL's.
I find it strange that not more people have this issue, besides me and my girl's car. I've searched all over online, and only found one person with a similar issue that never got resolved. Everyone else just has a stuck gear for the tilt that can be fixed with a flat head screw driver. Doesn't help that the title of the thread can be mistaken for the memory seat settings in the driver side.
The whole roller system just seems flimsy, wonder why it's not more reported. I'm going to try and fix it in case some one finds this thread in the future though.
Last edited by Thefireball; Mar 27, 2022 at 01:58 PM.
In case anyone viewing this thread had the brilliant idea of trying to hold the button down and moving the seat forward/back, it still moves & stops. I tried holding the button down while disconnecting & reconnecting the battery, but no go.
I just desoldered the actuator from the wires, and then checked them with the multimeter, but there's still 4.86v flowing through it. Guess it's time to cut open the loom and figure out where the wires go and see if there's anything bad on the circuit board it connects to. Maybe having constant power flowing through it killed something on the PCB?
1. I checked the driver's side with a multimeter, and it read 4.87V when activated.
2. I have found yet another actuator further up into the seat, but this one is intact.
It looks like this one does the same thing as the one I toyed around with, that is, it is pressed in when the seat is pushed back, then it depresses when the seat is folded forwarded, giving it power. I think this one activates first, then the second one. I've already tried hitting both buttons in multiple combinations, but nothing seems to happen still. This one sits right next to the cable for the latch to fold the seats. Problem is, I can't reach this one without removing all of the leather, and I haven't the slightest idea how to go about doing that without destroying the seat. So I can't even check it with the multimeter.
3. Following the wiring loom brings me to this brown plug here:
Middle pin is the ground, the other two are the hot wires; they both share the same ground. Check one of the hot pins, I get a constant 4.86V. Checking the other, I get a fluctuating number from .029V - .040V, with the volts continually dropping further down from .029V. I think I found the problem.
4. Looking at the PCB, everything looks fine. I gave it gentle cleaning with some alcohol and a plastic bristle brush.
I circled & put an arrow at the pins for the problem voltage. For anyone viewing this thread having the same issue, it's the brown wire.
Since the PCB is fine, then there might be a short in the wiring somewhere from when I removed the seats two years ago. So, time to cut open the loom.
5. Cutting open the loom, nothing stands out. Nothing is shorting out. So all good there.
6. Back to checking things with the multimeter, this time with everything plugged in. I put the prongs of the multimeter into the grey portion of the plug that goes into the brown connector for the problem wire, and hit the switch. .348V when the switch higher up in the seat is activated, and then .267V when both are being pushed. However, when I move the prong to the other wire, blue/black in this case which is the one that runs to the lower actuator, I get 4.86V when depressed, and 0 when pressed. But this one isn't affected at all by the higher actuator in terms of the volts fluctuating.
I'm not really sure what to make of all this, but something on the PCB might just be bad. Guess when I head to the junkyard, I'll just pull one off of another CL and give it a test. Why can the seat slide forward and back still, but not work when the seat folds down? And why does the seat slide forward and back, but stops moving after exactly 1 second everytime I hit the button? It'll slide forward and back all the way, so nothing seems to be stuck on the track. It's such a weird issue, I'm deeming this to just be an electronic issue with the board itself. Considering I already had a weird issue with my ECU when I first bought the car, where I had a constant CEL that wouldn't go away when reset, but it had no stored codes, this might just be another weird issue with another board.
Just gotta wait for another CL to show up at the junkyard now.
So, I'm an idiot. Apparently there are two plugs that are next to each other that are both 3 pin and fit in the same connector. One goes to the motor to slide the seat forward/back, and the other for the walk-in feature.
It took me looking at the wire colors to see what matches up. I thought it was weird that the walk-in wires were red/black/red, then would switch to blue/white/brown. One of the plugs had similar colored wires on the other side to the other motor. The correct wires had 4.87V on both wires, so that's already good news.
Swapping them over, I still get similar results, but something changed. Letting go of the lower actuator button with the seat folded, the seat will move forward.. for half a second. I can keep pushing and letting go, and it will keep doing it. Pushing the seat back to unfold it, nothing. Sliding the seat forward/back also still does the moving for a full second, and then stopping.
So progress? I guess? I feel dumb, but it's kind of dumb to put similar plugs right next to each other.
Last edited by Thefireball; Mar 27, 2022 at 11:16 PM.
I got it to work after removing the fuse for the slide. Everything worked perfectly. I then bolted it all back up, and it worked. Slid back and forth without stopping, walk-in feature worked.. and then it stopped. I can't get it back to working again. I have no clue as to what the hell is going on. Maybe a short some where? It's just so weird that all of a sudden, it would just work, and then not work anymore.
I have confirmed the issue is the computer under the seat. After doing a test with my multimeter on the setting where if the prongs touch, it beeps, I determined that the wires were fine after touching each each end with one prong. I figured it had to be the board, and then I remembered.. my girl has a CL. Why not just test it in that?
Lo & behold, I chucked it in my girl's car, and what do you know; same thing happened. So it's time to order a new one, and wait for a junkyard to come around so I can get a new actuator with the roller.
As for why the issue is occuring:
I think having mixed up the 3 pin plug caused something to permanently damage a component on the board, possibly due to over voltage. The component that was damaged was a sensor of some sort on the board that tells the rails when to stop moving when it reaches the end, or if something gets in the track preventing movement. This do-hickey right here:
There's 3 wires, one ground and two hot. One was getting power, but the other one is not. Both hot wires should be receiving power. I confirmed this by checking the driver's side with a multimeter.
So, lesson learned. If you take your seat out, MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CONFUSE THE 3-PIN PLUGS. There's actually 3 3-pin plugs that all can fit into the same exact connectors. 1 one on the left, and two on the right. At least this whole experience has taught me how the seats work.
Last edited by Thefireball; Mar 29, 2022 at 01:09 AM.
I find it strange that not more people have this issue, besides me and my girl's car. I've searched all over online, and only found one person with a similar issue that never got resolved. Everyone else just has a stuck gear for the tilt that can be fixed with a flat head screw driver. Doesn't help that the title of the thread can be mistaken for the memory seat settings in the driver side.
The whole roller system just seems flimsy, wonder why it's not more reported. I'm going to try and fix it in case some one finds this thread in the future though.
Didn't have a walkin issue when i first got the car, but I created the issue on the drivers side trying to unstick the recline gear. When I switched chassis I took the seats and ran two extension wires from the slide motor pins only. I now have the seats in a fixed position, and can manually slide them with a powerprobe by alternating power and ground. I used to fix aircraft wiring so I can read schematics. But, the seat schematic is ridiculous. lol. One of these days I'll dig into it more. it would be nice to have the slider and walkin feature work as intended.
Well I fixed my seat today before work. Put a new actuator in that I pulled from a junk car, and swapped the computer out from under the seat. When I was putting everything back together, one of the wires came out of the plug for the forward/backwards function of the seat. So I had to fix that.
