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Got a 6 speed manual 03, recently got the clutch done. Bought the car with a crappy clutch :/ got it replaced but sometimes its really difficult to get into first or second gear. Higher gears are always easier. Any ideas why? Also can I just add some fluid in it to help it? Here's a photo of my car just because
This is just for auto's tho right? Here's my car I need bigger wheels lmao
Who did the clutch? Do you know if the pressure plate is the self-adjusting variety? If it is, do you know if the shop properly set the self-adjusters? If not, the bet is the self adjusting mechanism isn't set properly. Do NOT, under any circumstances use that Lucas stuff.
A dude I met thru my old job did the clutch. He does alright work for not shop prices. Worked on my last car too. He did say he had some trouble with the installation took an extra day or two. It is an ebay clutch. Honestly isnt bad when the car is in the mood it'll shift absolutely perfect almost beyond belief but sometimes i really cannot get it into gear. reverse jsed to be a pain in the ass always had to turn the car off and start it in reverse or park it in reverse. my reverse fold down mirror doesnt work anymore �� thats been making a weird noise recently but only since its been cold so thats what I thought. Thanks for telling me not to use that stuff tho. someone told me to flush the tranny cos maybe my guy didnt use genuine honda oil.
If the EBay clutch kit came with a pressure plate engineered like the LuK pressure plate (which is the OEM hardware for our cars with the 6MT), then it has three spring loaded tabs which allow the pressure plate to "self-adjust" as the clutch disc wears.
It seems the aforementioned spring loaded tabs have a tendency to expand to their full length during shipping, however, at installation time the springs must be fully compressed.
The tool used to readjust the self-adjuster mechanism costs something like $1,000, so not every shop and back-yard mechanic will have one available.
If the self-adjuster mechanism isn't properly set at installation time, not only is it likely you will experience shifting difficulties, especially going into reverse, first, and second, but your clutch is likely to be completely worn out within only a few thousand miles.
For more information in this issue, please read this thread:
What fluid did he use? How many miles on the trans?
Ohhh, thanks for reminding me...
Shazoen, the folks here on AcuraZine have collectively come to the conclusion the absolute best MTF to use in your 6MT is ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified (do NOT under any circumstances use the stuff without the "Friction Modified" element in the name).
Thank you guys for the info. Where can I get that ACDelco fluid? I'd like to try that first. Here's some screenshots of the clutch its def not a LUK replacement I couldnt get that at the time just opted for this. I dont think this is a self adjusting clutch at all... is that the problem??
What fluid did he use? How many miles on the trans?
Not sure what fluid he used. I never asked. He said he drove it to be careful till the clutch breaks in and such. I bought the car with 121k, clutch shit at 122k. Rn it sits at 125.5k and I've had it since October.
Thank you guys for the info. Where can I get that ACDelco fluid? I'd like to try that first. Here's some screenshots of the clutch its def not a LUK replacement I couldnt get that at the time just opted for this. I dont think this is a self adjusting clutch at all... is that the problem??
If those pictures above are accurate, you are correct, that is not a self-adjusting pressure plate. You may have to do some adjusting, shown in the procedure below from the Helms, at the clutch pedal to find that consistent smooth shifting sweet spot.
Originally Posted by zeta
I do know that the Helms Service Manual, for the CL, has a 'Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch Interlock Switch Adjustment' procedure for adjusting the clutch pedal as follows:
NOTE:
-To check the clutch pedal position switch (see page 4-44).
-To check the clutch interlock switch (see page 4-6).
-Remove the drivers side floor mate before adjusting the clutch pedal.
-The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear.
-If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and push rod, the release bearing will be held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1) Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch pedal position switch (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C).
2) Loosen the clutch push-rod locknut (D), and turn the push rod (E) in or out to get the specified height (F), stroke (G), free play (H) and disengagement height (I) at the clutch pedal.
Clutch Pedal Stroke: 142.5-152.5mm or (5.61-6.00 in.)
Clutch Pedal Free Play: 10-18mm or (0.39-0.71 in.)
Clutch Pedal Height: 190mm (7.48 in.)
Clutch Pedal Disengagement Height: 79mm (3.11 in.)
3) Tighten the clutch push-rod locknut (D).
4) With the clutch pedal released, turn the clutch pedal position switch (B) in until it contacts the clutch pedal (C).
5) Turn the clutch pedal position switch (B) in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.
6) Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A).
7) Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
8) Release the clutch pedal 10-16mm (0.39-0.63 in.) from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch (K) so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
9) Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut (J).
If those pictures above are accurate, you are correct, that is not a self-adjusting pressure plate. You may have to do some adjusting, shown in the procedure below from the Helms, at the clutch pedal to find that consistent smooth shifting sweet spot.
Good Luck!
I agree, the image is definitely not a self-adjusting LuK pressure plate.
