payj

Hello,

Car ran fine yesterday. Today i start it to go to work and it was missing really bad. It sounded like a lawn mower. I just turned around and parked the car at home. Didnt drive it more than a half mile.

I have done a couple hours of research and it seems that most people who expericce this have a bad coil pack? There were a few other things too that it could be, but that seemed to be the main culprit. I did a search on that part and it seems they are around 60-70 bucks. My local dealer has them for $68.00. The part number he gave me was 30520P8EA01. Can someone confirm that is the part I need to buy? I did a check on autopartswarehouse and the part number for that part was diffrent. I got SIUF242. Are these two part numbers the same? If not what part number should a request from the dealer?


Also, any further advice would be much appreciated....

THX!

saiko_cl_duck

The part number your guy gave you is correct. Parts stores may put a different number on them, so it may be the correct part.

payj

Ok. Would it be a bad decision to buy it from Oreilys for cheaper? Or would it be best to buy it from the dealership even though it will cost more.....

On an other note. I just realized tonight when I had time to look at the engine that my CT Supercharger covers 3 of them. DAMN! So I need to uninstall the shaft/long part of it. Does anyone know the proper procedure to uninstall that part? I guess I could start with the back three and pray that one of those are the culprit.

ANY other adive would be awesome! I am not the most mechanical person so dumb things down for me if you can lol...THXXXXX

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

First. Where are u located? Second. You can buy just one coil pack but i recommend to get oem one. Third i would check the rear bank first by unpluging the coils one by one. If the sound of the idling engine doesnt change that means you just found bad coil pack.

Removing supercharger is not hard but it takes some time and patience. If you need help PM or post it here i will try to help you

payj

I am located in the Seattle area....I have a buddy who is mechanically inclined helping me. But if we need help I will PM you (thank you). Ya if the idle changes to normal (sounds almost like a V8 right now very choppy, smells bad too) with the back 3 then that would be great! I hope to get this done before xmas, but it may take into next week unfortunately.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Before you replace anything. Start the engine it will sound like u say (to me like a subaru) then try while the engine is running to pull the plugs from the coils. This method will tell you which one is bad. If the sound gets worse that means the coil pack is good. If it doesnt change that will tell you which one is gone. Hopefully its the one from the back so you dont have to remove the blower. But its the one on front i would replace all of them so if its gonna happen again you wont have to yank the supercharger once again.

payj

Ok that makes sense. Even to get to the rear ones i need to uninstall my sway bars. Those seem kind of like a pain too. Im thinking about replacing my spark plugs while were at it.....My local dealer is selling the coil pack for $68.00 The local Oreilys is selling them for $45.00. However you guys seem to think it would be wise to go with oem in this case correct? If so, why?....On a side note is the exhaust suppose to smell bad too?

payj

Also, is it bad to run your engine while it is like this? My battery died yesterday. I left the key in the ignition with the radio on all day (idiot) while I was in a scramble to get to work. I would like to jump it and let it run for a bit, but don't want to hurt anything....

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

You gonna have to start it up anyway to diagnose which one is bad. I recommend oem over the aftermarket so every mechanic would just to be sure in the future that you have fresh set of oem. Try get them online from the dealer there is plenty of websites that sells parts at discounted price but u have pay shipping. Exhaust will smell bad because you are not burning the fuel... If you want replace one just go to the dealer and buy it or orther all set online it will probably at the same price as aftermarket. You want to be sure you have a good quality coil that will not cause any problems. If you are running supercharger you are supposed to run one step colder denso plugs if you decide to change them at the time.

When you remove the supercharger just remember to yank it with the cam shaft bracket too. You dont want to break the seal and then leak the oil like i did.

payj

There are Denso's in there right now. I did not know they were the ones to get though. I bought the car set up like this. Would you mind giving me a product number for the plugs so I make sure to get the right ones? THX.......Thanks for the tip on the blower. I will make sure to let friend know. I am sure we will have more q's too.....

payj

To add to the last post: I was just about to buy the NGK Iridium IX plugs. If I had done that what would happen in a negative way?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

You must buy the ones that comptech recommends for supercharger on their website. Running too hot spark plugs may cause some issues but i cant tell you right now what kind. Get the right ones and save yourself headache later.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

you will eventually throw codes if you have the wrong plugs...happened to the previous owner of my car. I'm about 3/4 done removing my s/c. So far so good. It's just nuts and bolts. Here's a quick DIY:
-disconnect battery
-remove throttle body
-remove the EGR
-disconnect the elbow from the intake manifold
-remove s/c belt
-holding the blower onto the car are two bolts near the alternator, 3 at the cam shaft plate (leave cam shaft plate attached to blower), and one near the battery.

Also, this is the install instructions.
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/manu...ech/ins104.pdf

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

:bravo:

Thats what i wanted to say but using iphone kinda sucks to post all the info. I dont have a time to use my pc at all.

payj

Thanks guys. To get to my front plugs, do I need to uninstall the whole blower? or just the long shaft part?....Ok I will call them and find out what plugs they use....THX AGAIN

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

You have to remove whole unit

payj

I plugged in my buddies computer and it says cylinder 4 & 6 are misfiring along with other randoms. Are 4 and 6 in the front part covered by the blower or in the back?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

When you open the hood facing the firewall cylinders on the back are from left to right 1-2-3 and on the front 4-5-6

1-2-3
4-5-6

The code is not always accurate so i would do the check one by one like i said earlier by pulling the plugs.

payj

Typically, how long does the dis-assembly of the blower take to the point where you can get to the plugs if you know what your doing, but have a few difficulties here and there along the way?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

For me it takes around 45-60min. But it may take a bit longer when you do it for the first time. Its not hard at all but its tight to go with the wrench sometimes. I will try to take few picture for you if you want.

payj

That would be great!!!!! Thanks!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

and this is with the blower removed remember not to overtorque those bolts... its aluminium

payj

Thanks for the pics!....You say not to torque them, but is there a torque spec I should follow when putting it back together?....Also, is it safe to start the car without it installed to check the coils? Or do I need to re-install oem parts first?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

torque specs are in link i posted above (install instructions). You can start the car without the blower but i think you'll need to cover the cam plate or oil will leak everywhere. Street will know for sure.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

as long as you put the throttle body back on the intake manifold and swap the map sensor from the elbow that originaly is on the elbow going from the supercharger to intake manifold you can start the car and check if everything is ok before you put the blower back... but do not drive the car without an air filter tbh

payj

Are these items you speak of already on the car? I do not have any oem parts.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

im talking only about the parts you have nothing extra TB is throttle body with supercharger is connected before blower but when you gonna test it without the blower you willl have to relocate the TB to the IM(intake manifold)

payj

Great....This will all take place hopefully this Saturday. I am sure I will have more questions then. Maybe before. Thank you for all the help.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The Denso Iridium spark plugs used with the S/C'er kit are IK22's. Be sure to put a little anti-seize on the threads and TORQUE them to 13 lbf-ft.

The only thing I would add to what Street has already mentioned is while you have the blower removed, check the front engine mount and the lower radiator hose. If the car has over 100K, they may need consideration, especially the mount.

When it comes time to reinstall the S/C'er, becareful not to pinch the o-ring used in the cam plate area for the blower bracket. Becareful not to damage the EGR gasket as well.
It helps to have two people around to lift/positon the blower when working with it because it's heavy and your back will thank you later.

Good luck.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

the o-ring will break anyway so here is part number for new one

91301-p8a-a00 O-RING (48.5X2.4) $2 each ?

payj

Thank you for all the info guys. I did call CT and they told me they were the IK22. However I searched on ebay and there seems to be ones made for various cars. I went to Denso's website and there were no product codes that matched up right? So what is the right number? That matches the CL?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The link below is where I purchased mine:


The (5310) must be the product code you speak of and is on the sparkplug box that I have in my hand. I have had no problems running these.

Do not forget to post the results of your endeavor in finding the cause of the misfires.

payj

Thank you for the link......OKAY so today my buddy came over and we started off by doing the back three. Those did not help when putting the new one in. Then, instead of removing the front three we started by just unplugging them. The middle and left so #4 and #5 made the car way worse. Which is also as a recall what the comp said when I plugged it in. So knowing I only had one good one, I went back to the dealership and bought another one.....When we got back we took the blower off.

That in itself was a pain. But we did it. We plugged the two good ones in and reinstalled the blower. This took us 4-5 hours. The car ran the same!!! FU**. So back to the drawing boards....The car has 139k on it. The plugs in the car were installed at around 80k + or - a few 1000k. So they have damn near 60k on them. So seeing how those are in need of a change for sure and how in my reading on this topic suggests that it could be the plugs I am betting that could be it. I will buy new plugs next week along with a another third coil pack just in case the other one goes bad. I will then install new plugs. Your thoughts?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Wrong. If the sound get worse after pulling the plug of the coilpack that means coil is good. If it stays te same when you pull the plug that means you found bad one. It could be nr 6 and most likely just one. Check the rears first before you yank the blower again.

payj

Live and learn....I think you are right I just ran the car since my last post to get the engine light to come on again so I could run the computer. I did and now the only one that is tripping is #6. The one we thought was good lol. So that probably was the only one! Oh well. I now have one more coil on order and 6 new spark plugs from amazon on the way (thanks zeta). It cant hurt to replace all three along with getting new plugs....The rears we actually pulled each coil out and installed the new one to test and it still did not work....

payj

ZETA: Can you please give me the part number for the lower radiator hose? Is that something along with the engine mount that is pretty easy to install once the the blower is removed?......

On a side note: Speaking of engine mounts, I think I do have one that is broken. I go over small bumps at low speed and I can here it creak a bit. I got my oil changed about a month back and before the car was in the shop for 2 minutes one of the techs came out and told me it was broken. He didn't say which one and I did not ask (I know stupid). My buddy was just over and the side one, which is the most visible he said was cracked? Would that be enough to cause noise in the cabin? Is there a way of figuring out if it is the front or rear without taking the blower off?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

You can find the engine mounts and lower radiator hose on the link below. Click on 'ENGINE MOUNT' and 'RADIATOR HOSE'.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...ll&ListAll=All

The link below will give some insight on DIY engine mount discussion, although it is in regards to the CL-S6. My summary of the experience is in post #14. Not fun, but doable.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/all-diy-rear-eng-mount-installers-cls-6-a-775901/

IIRC, I changed the mounts at about 112K as preventative maintenence, so I did not have any noticable noises/clunks in their failure. The side mount was cracked but not leaking, so I went all in and replaced them all at that mileage interval. That's why I mentioned that while the blower is off the car, it's a good time to consider replacing things buried underneath it.

Good luck!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

any progress ? i would think about new axles too if have not replaced them yet

payj

No progress until I get my other coil pack and spark plugs. I start again either Friday night or early next week. My buddy is busy over the weekend so he will not be able to help me until then....I feel confident that it will be just fine with the third coil pack and new plugs...I will also look into the hose and mount...How much are new axels? (OR in the link Zeta provided, what category are they under?) and can they be installed youself?

payj

As noted above I plan on finishing the car up next week. My buddy said it would be easier to do it at his shop, which is about 6 miles away from my house. Would it be ok to drive it there in the condition it is in? Or would that be a bad idea?